But she hasn’t had clothing protection until now.

Her own little art smock.
And just the perfect size.

Keep in mind that you can create whatever size you’d like. Even one for you. However, the dimensions given were created for an almost 3 year old.

You’ll need:

• a piece of fabric that is 15 x 40 inches (I used cotton)
• a piece of fabric that is 8 x 15 inches
• a piece of fabric that is 3 x 35 inches
• 2 packages of double folded bias tape. (I bought the narrow but I think next time I’d buy one package of narrow and one package of wide. Attaching the bias tape over the riffles turned out hard with the narrow tape.)
• Several feet of narrow ribbon
• 5 inches of wide ribbon
• velcro

Begin by cutting out your large piece of fabric.

Find the center of the fabric by measuring and then trace a large circle right into the center. I used the mouth of a large cup and then added about 1/4 inch to that all the way around.

Cut the circle out and then cut a line down one end of the fabric…..starting at the center of the circle and then cutting down the center of the fabric all the way to the end.

Then, sew that opening closed again, starting at the bottom…….and then stopping about 8 inches from the circle. Use a 1/2 inch seam allowance.

Then roll under those raw edges a 1/4 inch fold and then andother 1/4 inch fold. Then sew into place.

Then make another seam along that first seam towards the bottom, just to reinforce it.

Now, turn over the fabric and make a few stitches and backstitches right under the end of the opening. Just to keep it strong and from ripping open from beiing pulled on by a toddler.

Now cut your 8 x 15 inch rectangle……

…….and your 3 x 35 inch strip. Fold the strip in half lengthwise and iron flat. (If you’re making this for a boy, or prefer to leave off the ruffle……go ahead and do so.)

Then sew a basting stitch (really long stitch) along the raw edges, really close to the edge….making sure to never go off the edge of the fabric. And make sure to leave long thread tails.

Then pull one of the top threads and start gathering your fabric.

Then pin it along one of the 15 inch sides of your rectangle.

And then place the fold of the bias tap over both layers and sew into place. (This is where I should have used the wider bias tape to make it easier to fit around all of that bulk.)

Then lay it on top of the front side of the art smock, matching up the bottom corners and sides.

Then sew the bias tape along the bottom front and back….and then along the sides.

Now, attach some bias tape around the neck, sewing slowly as you curve it around the circle. Then sew a seam right down the center of the pocket…..turning that one big pocket into two. Make sure to backstitch several times at the top and the bottom of that seam.

Now, using your wide piece of ribbon and your velcro…..attach it to the back of the kneck to create a closure.

And finally, attach your thin ribbon pieces (about 13 inches each) to the waist area of the smock. I placed mine about 9 inches down from the center of the kneck hole.

And that’s it. You’re ready to give your little one freedom to express their creativity.

Those beads sure help fancy up these plain ‘ol flip-flops a bit.

Who says flip-flops have to be boring? And have the plain plastic strap?  No one.

I’m realizing there are lots of fun ways to keep my feet happy.  Even if I’m just chillin’ in the backyard.

(Oh Colorado, I adore your summer weather.  You make me happy.)

Do you have an old pair of flip-flops you want to perk up?

(Or, you can always find them for a few dollars at Old Navy.)

First of all, I dug in my closet for this pair of flip-flops.  And then I cut off the straps, just like I did on the last pair (found here).

Then I pulled out some scrap fabric to use for the main piece for each sandal.  And then I found this broken necklace on clearance at Kohl’s……and knew I could use those flat beads somehow.  Love it when that happens.  So I took the necklace apart and saved the beads I needed.  But you can buy unused beads at Michael’s or Hobby Lobby (or other craft store) or find an old necklace at the thrift store.  A flat bead works best though, so keep an eye out.

Then I cut out a triangle shape out of paper, that I used for my pattern piece for the main triangle piece.  To achieve a good shape, measure it against your foot while deciding on the right size.  Then lay it on top of your flip flop and measure it against that.  I like more of a long and narrow triangle……I guess kind of like a piece of pizza.  But you could go with any shape.  Just see what you like best, and make your paper pattern the exact size you want it.

(I also made the short side of the triangle curved inward, so that it would contour my foot better.  And I also cut off the tip of the triangle and made it a straight edge.)

Next, you want to use your pattern piece to cut everything out.  Now, you can trace out a new pattern piece that’s bigger and includes a seam allowance or you can eyeball it as you’re cutting.  I recommend cutting out a new pattern piece…..but it’s up to you.

So cut out 4 triangles out in your main fabric choice (I used cotton fabric), that is bigger than your original pattern piece.  (I made mine 1/4 inch bigger all the way around.)  And then cut 2 pieces of felt with the original pattern piece size and 2 pieces of double sided fusible web.  I know, I have 4 of everything shown in the picture.  I wasn’t thinking and cut too many.  Sorry about that.

Now, place 2 of your triangles together, with right sides together, and sew all the way around (my seam allowance was 1/4 inch)…….leaving about an inch opening along one side.  Do the same with the other 2 triangle pieces.

Now, layer a piece of the web and a felt piece on one side of the fabric triangle………inside of the stitches.  (If the felt and web are bigger than your outline of stitches, trim them down to fit inside.)

Then iron the felt right down to the main fabric.

Now trim your edges and corners……..

………and clip the top curve of the triangle (unless you made it straight across the top). 

(Need help with clipping corners and curves?  Click here.)

Then, turn the triangle right side out, poke out the corners, and iron flat.  Be sure to tuck the edges of the opening towards the inside before ironing.

Now, top-stitch all the way around the outer edge of the triangle.

Follow the same steps with the other triangle.

Next, cut a strip of fabric to make the side straps and the toe straps for the sandal.  It depends on how wide you want your strip but I made my side strips about 3/4 of an inch wide.  So I cut a strip of fabric 2 inches wide, folded it in half lengthwise (and right sides together) and sewed down the raw edge, using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.  Then I turned the tube right side out and ironed it flat.  (Need help turning a tube right side out?  Click here.)

Oh, also…….my strip was about 40 inches long and then I cut it into 4 pieces, and used one for each side strap on both sandals.  I made them longer than I needed so I had enough to tie a knot on the underneath side of the sandal.

Now, zig-zag (or serge) one end of each strip.  Then place your foot on top of the flip flop, place the triangle on top of your foot and then see what angle of each side strap looks best.  Be sure that each strap is angled so that it will line up with the side holes in the flip flop.  Now, pin those straps in place (the zig-zag end) and then sew them down with 2 rows of stitches.

Here’s a view from the back.

Then I made another strip of fabric for the toe strap……but my finished strap was more narrow, at a 1/2 inch.  To achieve this, I cut out a strip of fabric that was 1.5 inches wide by about 15 inches long.  After sewing it and ironing it, I cut it in half and had about 7.5 inches for each sandal.

Now, arrange your beads on top of the triangle section……..just how you like it.

Then secure them with thread (hand-stitching).

Then feed each strap down into the flip-flops.  Try the flip-flops on to see how tight or loose you want your straps……then knot the ends of the straps to keep them in place.  Add a little glue underneath each knot, just for added strength.  (More detailed instructions of this step, here.)

And that’s it.  Your new sandals are ready to accompany you during these warmer months.

Love them.

I made a clear vinyl cinched-up pouch……that she can easily tote around with her little rubber-clothed dolls inside.  And then made another one that was larger, to carry a bigger collection of blocks……for my little guy.  Because we all know those blocks will end up scattered.  And homeless.  (And somehow under my bare feet.  Ouch.)

No more anxiety, wondering where all the little pieces of your children’s toys will go. 

Just bag it up and make it fun for them to put all their pieces back into their special bag.

See?  Now Polly Pocket and her friends have a place to stay.  No more random rubber skirts laying around the house.

Now, just imagine a whole collection of these……filled with all sorts of things.  Bathroom supplies, makeup, markers, craft supplies, etc.  Whatever you need.  And the vinyl makes it easy to see what’s inside.

A perfect way to keep things organized.  And pretty.  And easy to see.

Would you like to customize your own clear toy storage bags?

Supplies:

• Main Fabric (The amount you need will depend on the size bag you make…….make your calculations below to decide how much you’ll need)
• Thicker Clear Vinyl (At Joann’s, I bought 17 gauge vinyl I think.  The amount you need will depend on the size bag you make…….make your calculations below to decide.)
• Fusible Interfacing (only enough for the two circle pieces for the bottom)
• A Cord Pull  (I bought mine at Joann’s)

First, choose what size bag you want.  Then find a circle of some sort to trace (a bowl, a cup, a canister) that is about the size you want the bottom of your bag to be.  You will use the measurements of this circle to cut out the other pieces of your bag.  Use the following equations to determine the size of your pieces.

(Just as a mini math refresher course, the circumference of a circle is the measurement all the way around a circle.  The diameter of a circle is the distance across the circle.  Remember?  Ok, good.  Let’s move on.)

Bottom Circle Piece: whatever size you want your circle to be

Vinyl Piece:  height = circle diameter x 0.75  length = circle circumference + 1/2 inch

Upper Fabric Piece:  height = circle diameter x 0.75 x 2  length = circle circumference + 1/2 inch

Pull String Piece:  height = 1.5 inches  length = circle circumference + 4 inches

Now, that you have your measurements……….cut 2 circles out in your fabric, 2 circles of interfacing, 1 vinyl piece, 1 upper fabric piece, and 1 pull string piece.

**Now, just so you can see that math in action……..here are the measurements I used for the little orange polka dot bag.  (And if you found a circle that was exactly the same size as mine, you could use my measurements.)

My Circle: diameter = 5 inches  circumference = 15.7 inches  (remember, the circumference = diameter x 3.14…..so you don’t actually have to measure around the circle.)

Vinyl Piece:  hieght = 3.75 inches  length = 16.2 inches

Upper Fabric Piece:  height = 7.5 inches length = 16.2 inches

Pull String Piece:  height = 1.5 inches  length = 19.7 inches

First, iron your interfacing pieces to the wrong side of both fabric circle pieces.

***Before you start sewing…….review these tips for sewing with vinyl (that tends to stick).

Then fold your vinyl piece into a tube and sew the two ends together, using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.  Sew another seam next to the first, just for added strength.

Next, pin your two circles together, with wrong sides facing each other…..so that the interfacing sides are sandwiched together.  Then start pinning the sandwiched circles to the right side of the vinyl tube.  Pin all the way around, using plenty of pins as you go.  ***Remember, pinning something straight to something that is curved can be tricky.  Just manipulate the fabric as best you can to fit inside that circle.

Now, sew the circle the and vinyl together, using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.  And don’t worry……just sew a few stitches at a time, adjust, then sew a few more.  This will take some patience as you go around the circle.  Then trim off the edges a bit and then zig-zag all the way around, with a narrow zig-zag stitch.

Turn the tube right side out.  You will really have to pinch the edges and bit and flatten the vinyl out with your fingers to get it to lay the way you want it.

Then zig-zag or serge the two short ends of your upper fabric piece.  Then fold your fabric piece in half and with right sides together, sew the two ends together with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.  Iron the 2 ends open from the inside of the tube.

Now, fold the top of the tube fabric down, revealing the right side of the fabric.  Fold it exactly in half, matching up the raw ends along the bottom.  So now there’s a fold along the top of the tube and 2 raw edges along the bottom.  Iron the fold flat.

Now, make a seam that is a 1/2 inch from the top of the folded edge.  Then up-pick the stitches along the side seam of the tube that are above the seam you just made parallel to the top fold.  Unpick the stitches on both sides.  (You’ll only be unpicking a 1/2 inch of stitches on the front and a 1/2 inch of stitches on the back.)

Now, slide the tube down upside down over the vinyl.  Match up the top of the vinyl with the two bottom raw edges of the fabric.  Sew them together with a 1/4 inch seam allowance, then trim and zig-zag the edges.  Set aside.

Now, fold your pull string piece in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together.  Iron flat. Then open it up and fold each edge into the center along that ironed fold.  Iron again.  Then sew closed.

Now, using a safety pin at one end of the pull string, thread it through the top casing of the bag.  Place the two ends through a cord pull then tie each end into a knot.

Now you’re all set. 

And ready to stuff your bag with toys.  Or supplies.  Or whatever.

It gives some nice dimension to the wall.

Especially to the space above this bed, that was shouting at me to fill it up.

Want to make your own?


And hopefully you have the same scraps laying around that I did.  
Nice and inexpensive.




I had some scrap 1×4 wood, that I trimmed down to 18 inches long.  Then I drilled 5 holes along one side that were about 2.5 inches deep.  Each hole was about 3 inches apart.  Then I sanded down the entire piece of wood.  Then I cut up old white coated wire hangers, some 15 inch long pieces and other 12 inches long.  (Any size works though.)

Then I pounded picture frame hangers into the back of the wood.

Then I sketched out a butterfly shape and cut it out.

And then I cut out 10 butterflies…

On one side of one of the butterflies, I placed a good amount of hot glue……

Then I placed the end of one of the hangers down the center of the butterfly and then placed another butterfly on top…….sandwiching the wire in between the two butterflies.

Then I cut out little butterfly bodies….

And glued them to each of the 5 butterflies.

Then I stuck a bit of hot glue down into one of the holes in the wood and slid the wire down into the hole, securing the wire in place.

Lastly, I bent the wires around a bit…….giving some of the butterflies some flight.

And then I hung the simple little butterfly decoration right above my little girl’s bed.

Done.

here today to show you how to make a Ruffled St. Patrick’s day shirt!

 Supplies:

T Shirt Knit Fabric (I used 1/2 yard to make a size 4 shirt)

1 yd of washable ribbon

Fabric medium

craft paint

Paint Brush

Freezer paper

4 leaf clover punch

1. Measure and trace your sewing guide lines onto the t-shirt using a fabric pen. I started about 2 inches from the armpit of the shirt and did three lines, 4 inches apart.

2. Cut your knit into 3 strips. Mine are 5” each. The great thing about knit is that it won’t fray so you don’t have to hem!

3. Ruffle your fabric by running it through the sewing machine on the longest and widest stitch.

4. Pin and sew your knit strips onto your t-shirt . When I got to the short edges around the back I just tucked it under and sewed, so you can’t see where the fabric ended. Then I trimmed the excess off the strip.

The shirt with the three knit strips sewn on!

Now take your ribbon and trim it to the size of your shirt. Singe the edges with a lighter to prevent the ribbon from fraying.

Pin the ribbon to the top ruffle right below where you sewed it onto the shirt. Then put the bottom of the ribbon to the top of the ruffle. Sew along the bottom and top of the ribbon.

Now your knit edge is hidden with the ribbon giving it a clean, finished look.

1. Cut a little rectangle of freezer paper and punch out your design with your clover punch.

2. Iron the freezer paper to the shirt with the shiny side facing the fabric.

3. Mix your fabric paint. I used Martha Stewart glitter paint mixed at a 2:1 ratio with fabric medium.

4. Carefully paint your design. When the paint is dry peel off the freezer paper. My fabric medium needed a full 24 hours of dry time and then I just heat set the design with the iron.

Finished! I love that the ruffles make it a long shirt, perfect for leggings!

Last Friday I showed you a bunch of ribbon I received from Mindy Mae’s Market.   I wanted to give you the tutorial for how I made the ruffled ribbon flowers.   They are incredibly simple to make especially with a ruffle foot.

Supplies:

Sewing machine with Ruffle foot

coordinating thread

hot glue

felt

lighter

Do you have a ruffle foot for your sewing machine?   I think it is a must have for anyone who likes to sew and adores ruffles.   I bought mine on Ebay for $23.   It looks kinda of scary when you see it but once you read the instructions it is really easy to get the ruffle you desire.

I singed both ends of the grosgrain ribbon with a lighter to seal the ends.   Then I ran about 2 yards of ribbon through my ruffle foot with the foot set at 1 and my tension at a 4.   You will have to experiment with your stitch length to find the ruffle you desire.   Of course you could just do a long running stitch and pull one of the threads to ruffle it as well.   But it is so wonderful to just run it through a machine and get the desire ruffle without pulling, tugging or the possibility of a broken string.

I cut my strings and was left with one long ruffle.

I started at one end rolling it up and rolled the entire flower up.

While holding it all in place I squirted out some hot glue into a circle shape onto a scrap of felt.

Then I cut around the felt to form a circle in the back.

At this point you can glue them on a bag, add an alligator clip for your hair, glue them to a belt or a pin to make a brooch.   I mean there are a zillion different things you can do with ribbon flowers, right?

Перевод картинки из журнала Понадобятся: лист из глянцевого журнала, бензин для зажигалок (в крайнем случае, жидкость для снятия лака), тонкая палочка или непишущая ручка, скотч.

Серия сообщений "Подушки, кресла, сидушки":
Часть 1 - шьем гамак
Часть 2 - Мастер-класс Очаровательные подушки-тыквочки
Часть 3 - Манекены-игольницы. Идеи и мастер-класс
Часть 4 - Прихваточки
Часть 5 - Треугольные подушки-сидушки
Часть 6 - Как сделать кресло мешок своими руками?
...
Часть 46 - Подушка-игрушка "Котёнок"
Часть 47 - Самая красивая подушка РОЗА. Мастер-класс
Часть 48 - Как сшить кресло-трансформер своими руками!

Серия сообщений "Рамочки":
Часть 1 - рамочки и бабочки
Часть 2 - Рамки
...
Часть 22 - Картина из ткани. МК
Часть 23 - Романтическая картина с мозаикой и розами для ванной комнаты. Мастер-класс
Часть 24 - Бабочки
Часть 25 - Рамка подсолнух
Часть 26 - Рамочки украшенные семенами
...
Часть 44 - Винтажная рамка из пенопластовых плинтусов. Сногсшибательная идея)
Часть 45 - Украшение дома картинками
Часть 46 - Панно "Поздравительный паровозик"