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Áåç çàãîëîâêà

Ïÿòíèöà, 14 Èþíÿ 2013 ã. 10:50 + â öèòàòíèê
Öèòàòà ñîîáùåíèÿ NATALI_SOLER ÈÑÒÎÐÈß ÊÐÓÆÅÂÀ.14-18 Â.Â.


Àâòîð:[info]marinni

Êðóæåâî ðó÷íîé ðàáîòû âî âñå âðåìåíà ñòîèëî î÷åíü äîðîãî.
Íà êðóæåâàõ ðàçîðÿëèñü, èç-çà íèõ âëåçàëè â äîëãè, ñàäèëèñü â òþðüìó è êîí÷àëè æèçíü ñàìîóáèéñòâîì. Ïî îôèöèàëüíûì äîêóìåíòàì, àðèñòîêðàòèÿ è öåðêîâü òðàòèëè íà êðóæåâà êîëîññàëüíûå ñóììû.


POURBUS, Frans the Younger. Archdukes Albert and Isabella

Íîñîâîé ïëàòîê
 

1.Äåðåâÿííîå æàáî-ðåçüáà 1690
2.Detail from a painting of The Marquise d'Aigurandes by F. Drouais, 1759




Âîçíèêíîâåíèå êðóæåâà îòíîñèòñÿ ê î÷åíü äðåâíèì âðåìåíàì.  ëåãåíäàðíîé êíèãå «Èñõîä» óïîìèíàåòñÿ «çàâåñà èç ãîëóáîé, ïóðïóðîâîé è ÷åðâëåííîé øåðñòè è êðó÷åííîãî âèññîíà óçîð÷àòîé ðàáîòû» (ãë. XXVI—XXVII) è «îäåæäà Ààðîíà èç çîëîòîé, ãîëóáîé, ïóðïóðîâîé è ÷åðâëåííîé øåðñòè è êðó÷åííîãî âèññîíà». Êðóæåâî ñ íåçàïàìÿòíûõ âðåìåí ÿâëÿëîñü ëþáèìûì óêðàøåíèåì, íî åãî ðàñöâåò ñâÿçàí ñ êîñòþìîì XVI âåêà.
Íèòêè äëÿ êðóæåâ ìîãëè áûòü áóìàæíûìè, ëüíÿíûìè, øåðñòÿíûìè, øåëêîâûìè, ñåðåáðÿíûìè, çîëîòûìè. Â Èòàëèè èñïîëüçîâàëè äàæå íèòêè èç àëîý.

Êðóæåâî áûëî ïëåòåíîå èëè øèòîå. Ïëåòåíîå êðóæåâî äåëàëè íà êðóãëîé ïîäóøêå ïðè ïîìîùè êîêëþøåê. Óçîð, èëè ñêîëîê êëàëè íà ïîäóøêó, à ïëåòåÿ (êðóæåâíèöà), óêðåïèâ êîíöû íèòåé áóëàâêàìè, âòûêàëà áóëàâêè â áëèæàéøèå ëèíèè ïåðåñå÷åíèÿ óçîðà è ïåðåêèäûâàëà êîêëþøêè äðóã ÷åðåç äðóãà, äîñòèãàÿ ñêðåùèâàíèÿ íèòåé, îïëåòàþùèõ áóëàâêè, çàòåì âûíèìàëà ïðåæäå âîòêíóòûå è âòûêàëà èõ â íîâûå ìåñòà, ñëåäóÿ óçîðó.

Øèòîå êðóæåâî âûïîëíÿëè èãîëêîé ñ íèòêîé. Ðèñóíîê íàíîñèëè íà ïåðãàìåíò, êðóæåâíèöà íàìåòûâàëà ïî ëèíèÿì ðèñóíêà òîëñòóþ íèòêó, çàòåì øèëà îðíàìåíòû, çàïîëíÿëà ñåðåäèíû, âøèâàëà ñâÿçêè òþëÿ è íàøèâàëà ðåëüåôíûå êîíòóðû. Íîæíèöàìè ðàçðåçàëà íàìåòêó, ñîåäèíÿþùóþ êðóæåâî è ïåðãàìåíò, è ðàáîòà áûëà ãîòîâà.


-------------------------------------Âîðîòíèêè--------------------

---------------------------------------Ôðåçà---------------------




Charles, Prince of Wales (later Charles I). Vellum. Oval, 2 5/8 in (6.7cm) high.
Author Isaac Oliver
Date 1615(1615)



Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia, by Michiel Jansz. van Miereveldt (died 1641). See source website for additional information.
Date c. 1623

GHEERAERTS, Marcus the Younger
Portrait of Lady Anne Ruhout
1631
Oil on canvas, 126 x 102 cm
Groeninge Museum, Bruges



DYCK, Sir Anthony van
Portrait of a Noble Genoese Lady
1621-27
Oil on canvas, 239 x 170 cm
Musée du Louvre, Paris

GONZÁLEZ Y SERRANO, Bartolomé
Portrait of Margarita Aldobrandini, Duchess of Parma
1610-23
Oil on canvas, 155 x 112 cm
The Hermitage, St. Petersburg


Èòàëüÿíñêèìè õóäîæíèêàìè XVI âåêà áûëî ñîçäàíî îêîëî äâàäöàòè äâóõ êíèã ñ óçîðàìè äëÿ êðóæåâíûõ èçäåëèé. Èçâåñòíû èìåíà èõ àâòîðîâ: Niccolo Zoppino (1527), Bugato (1527), Paganino (1527), Tagliente (1534) è äðóãèå.  Èòàëèè ñëàâèëèñü ñâîèì ìàñòåðñòâîì êðóæåâíèöû Âåíåöèè, Ãåíóè, Àëüáèññîëà, Ìèëàíà. Ñ êîíöà XV âåêà ñòàëî èçâåñòíûì âåíåöèàíñêîå êðóæåâî «ñòåæîê â âîçäóõ», ïðåäñòàâëÿâøåå ñîáîé óçåíüêèé çóá÷àòûé áîðòèê ðåäêîãî ãåîìåòðè÷åñêîãî óçîðà. Ïîñòåïåííî ãåîìåòðè÷åñêèé óçîð óñëîæíÿëñÿ ôèãóðàìè ëþäåé è æèâîòíûõ. Èãëîé ñ ïîìîùüþ ëüíÿíûõ íèòåé ïëåëè ïûøíûå è ñëîæíûå øèòûå ãèïþðû, à íà êîêëþøêàõ ñîçäàâàëè ïåñòðûå, öâåòíûå, çîëîòûå è ñåðåáðÿíûå êðóæåâà.


Ôëàíäðèÿ áûëà íå ìåíåå çíàìåíèòà, ÷åì Èòàëèÿ, ñâîèìè êðóæåâàìè. Çäåñü èçãîòàâëèâàëè ïëåòåíûå ãèïþðû ñ îðíàìåíòàìè èç ðàñòèòåëüíûõ çàâèòêîâ, äëÿ èçãîòîâëåíèÿ êîòîðûõ â ñûðûõ ïîäâàëàõ, ÷òîáû êóäåëü ïîñòîÿííî áûë âëàæíûì, ìàñòåðèöû ïðÿëè óäèâèòåëüíî ìÿãêèå è òîíêèå íèòè èç ëüíà.

Íàçâàíèå çíàìåíèòîãî òîíêîãî ôëàìàíäñêîãî áðþññåëüñêîãî ãèïþðà «ãèïþð àíãëåòýð» îáúÿñíÿåòñÿ ïîëèòèêî-ýêîíîìè÷åñêèìè ïðè÷èíàìè.  Àíãëèè âïëîòü äî 1735 ãîäà ñîõðàíÿëèñü çàïðåò è îãðàíè÷åíèÿ íà íîøåíèå êðóæåâ èíîñòðàííîãî ïðîèçâîäñòâà.  1662 ãîäó àíãëèéñêèé ïàðëàìåíò çàïðåòèë ââîç ôëàìàíäñêîãî êðóæåâà è ïîîùðèë âûïóñê îòå÷åñòâåííîãî. Îäíàêî ñïðîñ áûë ñòîëü âåëèê, ÷òî ôëàìàíäñêîå êðóæåâî ïðèâîçèëîñü òàéíî è ïðîäàâàëîñü ïîä âèäîì àíãëèéñêîãî ñ íîâûì íàçâàíèåì.

 Øîòëàíäèè êðóæåâíîå ìàñòåðñòâî äîñòèãëî ðàñöâåòà âî âðåìÿ öàðñòâîâàíèÿ Ìàðèè Ñòþàðò, êîòîðàÿ è ñàìà áûëà çíàòíîé ìàñòåðèöåé, èñêóñíî ñî÷èíÿâøåé óçîðû èç öâåòîâ, çâåðåé è ïòèö.

 Èñïàíèè íà êðóæåâà òðàòèëîñü òàê ìíîãî äåíåã, ÷òî êîðîëü Ôèëèïï III èçäàë â 1623 ãîäó çàêîí, çàïðåùàþùèé íîñèòü êðóæåâà.

Äðóãèå åâðîïåéñêèå ñòðàíû òîæå ñòàðàëèñü íå îòñòàâàòü îò ìîäû.




MIEREVELD, Michiel Jansz. van
Portrait of a Woman
1628
Oil on panel, 67 x 56 cm
Wallace Collection, London


POURBUS, Frans the Younger
Archdukes Albert and Isabella
-
Oil on oak panel, 60 x 42 cm (each)
Groeninge Museum, Bruges


POURBUS, Frans the Younger
Portrait of an Italian Lady
1600-09
Oil on canvas, 47 x 36 cm
Pinacoteca Malaspina, Pavia
Other works by the artist...

POURBUS, Frans the Younger
Portrait of Margaret of Savoy, Duchess of Mantua
1608
Oil on canvas, 207 x 116 cm
The Hermitage, St. Petersburg
Other works by the artist...


POURBUS, Frans the Younger
Portrait of Isabella Clara Eugenia of Austria with her Dwarf
c. 1599
Oil on canvas, 217 x 130 cm
Royal Collection, Hampton Court



Ëþäîâèê XIII â 1613 ãîäó èçäàë çàêîí, êîòîðûé äîëæåí áûë ïîëîæèòü êîíåö ðàçîðèòåëüíîé ñêëîííîñòè ôðàíöóçîâ, òðàòèâøèõ íà ïðèîáðåòåíèå êðóæåâ öåëûå ñîñòîÿíèÿ. Ôðàíöèÿ âñêîðå íàøëà âûõîä èç ñîçäàâøåãîñÿ ïîëîæåíèÿ, íî íå ñ ïîìîùüþ çàïðåòîâ, à áëàãîäàðÿ ðàçâèòèþ êðóæåâíîãî äåëà è êðóæåâíûõ öåíòðîâ âî Ôðàíöèè, äëÿ ÷åãî èç Âåíåöèè áûëè ñðî÷íî âûïèñàíû ìàñòåðà. Òàêèìè öåíòðàìè ñòàëè ãîðîäà Àðæàíòàí è Àëàíñîí. Ñëîæíûå äåêîðàòèâíûå êîìïîçèöèè, òûñÿ÷è èçîùðåííûõ äåòàëåé, íèòÿíûå ìîñòèêè, èëè ñâÿçêè, ïðåâðàòèâøèåñÿ â ôîí, ïðèäàþò íåïîâòîðèìóþ âîçäóøíóþ ìàññèâíîñòü ðàííèì ôðàíöóçñêèì ãèïþðàì. Âî Ôðàíöèè êðóæåâî áûëî ïîïóëÿðíûì âïëîòü äî Ôðàíöóçñêîé ðåâîëþöèè. Ïîñëå ðåâîëþöèè êðóæåâî ñòàëî ìîäíûì ïðè äâîðå Íàïîëåîíà, íî íåíàäîëãî.

 Ãåðìàíèè ïåðâàÿ êíèãà äëÿ êðóæåâíûõ ðàáîò Èîãàííà Øàðöåíñáåðãåðà ïîÿâèëàñü â 1534 ãîäó â Àóãñáóðãå.

Êðóæåâíûå ðàáîòû â Øâåöèè âî ìíîãîì ñâÿçàíû ñ èìåíåì ñâ. Áðèãèòû èç Âîäñòåíà, êîòîðàÿ îáó÷àëà ýòîìó ðåìåñëó ìîíàõèíü.

Ê XVII âåêó êðóæåâîì óêðàøàëè êîñòþìû ìàðøàëîâ è îôèöåðîâ, êàâàëåðîâ è ïðèäâîðíûõ äàì. Êðóæåâî øëî íà èçãîòîâëåíèå ãàëñòóêîâ, âîðîòíèêîâ, ìàíæåò, øàðôîâ, îòâîðîòîâ ñàïîã è ïåð÷àòîê, óêðàøåíèå êàðåò, êðîâàòåé, òðîíîâ, ìåáåëè, àëòàðåé.

 XVIII âåêå íàèáîëüøèì óñïåõîì ïîëüçîâàëîñü ÷ðåçâû÷àéíî òîíêîå êðóæåâî ñ öâåòî÷íûìè ãèðëÿíäàìè, áàíòàìè, ãîëóáÿìè. Áîëüøîå ðàñïðîñòðàíåíèå ïîëó÷èëè ðèñóíêè íà ðåëèãèîçíûå ñþæåòû, ÷àñòî èçîáðàæàëàñü ìàäîííà ñ ìëàäåíöåì. Ñëîæíûé ðèñóíîê äëÿ òàêèõ êðóæåâ ñîçäàâàëñÿ ïðîôåññèîíàëüíûì õóäîæíèêàìè. Øåëêîâîå òîíêîå êðóæåâî «áëîíä» áûëî èçëþáëåííûì âî âðåìåíà àìïèðà, à êðóæåâà ñ öâåòàìè è ëèñòüÿìè ñ çîëîòîé è ñåðåáðÿíîé íèòÿìè, øëè íà çíàìåíèòóþ èñïàíñêèå ìàíòèëüè.


---------------×åïöû è íàêîëêè--------------------------



Portret Anna de Looper, Abraham Rombouts, 1627 Portret Anna de Looper, Abraham Rombouts, 1627


MIEREVELD, Michiel Jansz. van
Portrait of a Young Woman
1630
Oil on panel, 70 x 58 cm
Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna


AVED, Jacques-André-Joseph
Madame Crozat
17541
Oil on canvas
Musée Fabre, Montpellier


Eleanor James, by unknown artist.
Date c. 1700



Ìåñòî ïðîèñõîæäåíèÿ: Brussels (city) (made) Áðþññåëü 1730-1750 (ñäåëàíî)
needle lace èãîëüíîå êðóæåâî



Áðþññåëü
Date: Äàòà: 1750s (made) Ýòè óøêè -÷àñòü ãîëîâíîãî óáîðà.



Äåòñêèé ÷åï÷èê, 18 âåê


---------------------------Ñòîÿ÷èé âîðîòíèê-----------------



Elisabeth of France, Queen of Spain, eldest daughter of King Henry IV. of France and Maria de Medici, first Wife of King Philip IV of Spain, oil on canvas, Staatliche Kunsthalle Karlsruhe
Date c. 1615
Author Frans Pourbus the Younger



Anthony van Dyck (1599(1599)–1641(1641))
um 1630
Porträt der Marie-Louise de Tassis



Catherine Killigrew, Lady Jermyn, oil on panel
Date 1614(1614)
Source Scanned from Karen Hearn, ed. Dynasties: Painting in Tudor and Jacobean England 1530-1630.
Author Marcus Gheeaerts the Younger



unknow, probably 17th century
Author Marcus Gheeraerts







POURBUS, Frans the Younger
Portrait of a Frenchman
1610-22
Oil on canvas, 61 x 53,3 cm
Art Gallery, New South Wales




---------------------Îòëîæíîé------------------------



A double portrait of Charles I and Henrietta Maria, with Henrietta Maria handing a laurel wreath to the king. 17th century. Coques, Gonzales



Kaiser Ferdinand III. (1608-1657), Brustbild
Frans Luycx

DYCK, Sir Anthony van
Portrait of the Princes Palatine Charles-Louis I and his Brother Robert
1637
Oil on canvas, 132 x 152 cm
Musée du Louvre, Paris

HALS, Frans
Portrait of a Woman Holding a Fan
c. 1640
Oil on canvas, 79,8 x 59 cm
National Gallery, London

-------------------------Áîáèííîå êðóæåâî----------------------


Collar Áîáèííîå êðóæåâî
Place of origin:Honiton (probably, made)
Date:1630-1640 (made)
Lacemaking developed in England during the 16th century in response to the growth in personal wealth and to changes in fashionable dress. By 1600, bobbin lace was being made domestically throughout the country and professional centres had been established in London, the West Country and the Midlands. The lace for this collar was probably professionally made.


Lace ensemble
Place of origin:England (made)
Devon (probably, made)
Date:ca. 1635 (made)


Èãîëüíîå êðóæåâî

Âîðîòíèê
Place of origin: Ìåñòî ïðîèñõîæäåíèÿ: Vienna (made) Âåíà (ñäåëàíî)
Date: Äàòà: 1879 (designed) 1879 (ïî ïðîåêòó)




Âîðîòíèê
Place of origin: Ìåñòî ïðîèñõîæäåíèÿ: Belgium (made) Áåëüãèÿ (ñäåëàíî)
Date: Äàòà: 1630s (made) 1630-õ ãîäàõ (ñäåëàíî)



Ôëàíäðèÿ mid 17th century (made) ñåðåäèíû 17-ãî âåêà




----------------Ðóêàâà è âûðåç-------------------


Detail from a painting of The Marquise d'Aigurandes by F. Drouais, 1759



Sophie Philippine Elisabeth Justine de France, dite Madame Sophie (1734-1782)
Year 1748(1748)
Technique Oil on canvas
Musée national du Château et des Trianons


Russian Grand princess Catharina Aleksejevna 16 years old (future Catherine II of Russia, called the Great)
german painter Georg Christoph Grooth
State Hermitage Museum, St-Peterburg, Russia
Date 1745(1745)


Jean-Marc Nattier (1685(1685)–1766(1766))
Victoire Louise Marie Thérèse de France, dite Madame Victoire (1733-1799)
Year 1748(1748) Musée national du Château et des Trianons


Jean-Marc Nattier (1685(1685)–1766(1766))
Louise-Marie de France, dite Madame Louise (1737-1787)
Year 1748


DROUAIS, François-Hubert
Madame de Pompadour
1763-64
Oil on canvas, 217 x 157 cm
National Gallery, London



Alexander Roslin (1718(1718)–1793(1793))
John Jennings Esq., his Brother and Sister-in-Law
Year 1769


Half length portrait of a lady.

------------------------Êðóæåâî íà íà êþëîòàõ è îáóâè----------------------



êðóæåâà, 1630c, èãîëüíîå êðóæåâî










--------------------------Æàáî-è-ãàëñòóêè--------------------
-------------------------------


Portrait of Louis XIV
Date 1661(1661)
Author Charles Le Brun


After David Paton
Date
1698 (c.)
Robert Earle of Roxburgh


Brussels bobbin lace cravat possibly made for Louis XIV


lace, 1660s, Italian; Raised needle Venetian


Cravat. Ãàëñòóê. Áðþññåëü 1720s


Âîðîòíèê, èãîëüíîå êðóæåâî, 1660-1680, Âåíåöèÿ, Èòàëèÿ


----------

Gustavus III of Sweden
Date 1777(1777)
Alexander Roslin (1718(1718)–1793(1793))



The Emperor FrancisⅠ,the Empress Maria Theresa and their children in 1756 (detail)

Date 1756(1756)

Source The original is located at Musées Trianon

Author Martin Van Mytens



William Gore. Miniatures.
Date circa 1752
Author Christian Friedrich Zincke


BELLE, Alexis-Simon
Portrait of Louis XV
-
Oil on canvas, 116 x
--------------------------------Èãîëüíîå êðóæåâî-------------


Íàèáîëåå ïîïóëÿðíûìè òåìàìè äëÿ ðóêîäåëèÿ ôîòîãðàôèé è ïàíåëåé äëÿ êîòîðûõ ýòî êðóæåâà òåñíî ñâÿçàíû, áûëè ñöåíû èç Âåòõîãî Çàâåòà è àíòè÷íîé ìèôîëîãèè, èëè ÷óâñòâ, ýëåìåíòîâ è ñåçîíîâ.
England (made) Àíãëèÿ (ñäåëàíî)
Date: Äàòà: 1640-1670 (made) 1640-1670


----------------------------------Ëåíòî÷íîå---------------------------


èãîëüíîå êðóæåâî, 1620-1640, Èòàëèÿ

èãîëüíîå êðóæåâî, 1620-1640, Èòàëèÿ


Ïëàòîê, èãîëüíîå êðóæåâî, ëåí, 1685-1700, Âåíåöèÿ, Èòàëèÿ



èãîëüíîå êðóæåâî, 1690-1680-å ãîäû, Âåíåöèÿ

èãîëüíîå êðóæåâî, 1690-1680-å ãîäû, Âåíåöèÿ





Èòàëèÿ early 17th century (made) íà÷àëî 17 âåêà (ñäåëàíî)
Cutwork and needle lace Cutwork è èãîëüíîå êðóæåâî

Èòàëèÿ early 17th century (made) íà÷àëî 17 âåêà (ñäåëàíî)
Cutwork and needle lace Cutwork è èãîëüíîå êðóæåâî



Èòàëèÿ (ñäåëàíî)
Date: Äàòà: 1620-1640 Èãîëüíîå êðóæåâî





Èðëàíäèÿ, 1886. Ìîíàñòûðü Poor Clares,

Íåçàâåðøåííîå êðóæåâî- âèäíà áóìàãà ñ ðèñóíêîì.


Biblia èãîëüíîå êðóæåâî

Biblia èãîëüíîå êðóæåâî, Êèïð, 1886

This is a piece of Irish needle lace. It has a distinctive flat style and an 18th-century pattern, although it actually dates from about 1886.

Border
Unknown
ca. 1886

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Set of flounces- Íàáîð âîëàíîâ
Place of origin:Bayeux (made)
Date:1867 (made)

---------------------

Íîñîâîé ïëàòîê
England (made) Àíãëèÿ
second half 19th century (made) âòîðàÿ ïîëîâèíû 19 âåêà


England (made) Àíãëèÿ
Date: Äàòà: second half 19th century (made) âòîðàÿ ïîëîâèíû 19 âåêà


This set of bed hangings was made for the marriage in 1875 of Queen Natalie, the daughter of a Russian colonel, to Milan IV, King of Serbia.


--------------------------Âåíåöèàíñêîå--------------------------------


 XVI âåêå îäíèì èç öåíòðîâ êðóæåâîïëåòåíèÿ ñ÷èòàëàñü Âåíåöèÿ.

Âåíåöèàíñêîå êðóæåâî äîðîãî öåíèëîñü âî âñåé Åâðîïå. Ýñêèçû äëÿ êðóæåâíûõ ðèñóíêîâ ñîçäàâàëè èçâåñòíåéøèå õóäîæíèêè è þâåëèðû (òàêèå êàê ×åçàðå Âå÷åëëèî è Áåíâåíóòî ×åëëèíè). Èìåííî èõ êèñòè ïðèíàäëåæàò íîâàòîðñêèå ðåøåíèÿ, áëàãîäàðÿ êîòîðûì áûëè ñîçäàíû ðàçëè÷íûå âèäû êðóæåâ, ïîïóëÿðíûå è â íàøå âðåìÿ.  òå ãîäû áûëè èçîáðåòåíû ðàçëè÷íûå âèäû ñòåæêà: ñòåæîê óçëîì, êðóæåâî íà ñåòêå, èëè òþëü, ìóðàíñêèé ñòåæîê è èãîëüíûé ñòåæîê.
Áëàãîäàðÿ çíàìåíèòûì òàëàíòàì âåíåöèàíñêèõ òîðãîâöåâ îíî ðàñïðîñòðàíèëîñü ïî âñåé Åâðîïå è ñòàëî îäíîé èç ïðè÷èí áàñíîñëîâíûõ íàëîãîâ â òåõ ãîñóäàðñòâàõ, ãäå ìîíàðõè è çíàòü ëþáèëè êðàñèâî ïðèîäåòüñÿ – âåíåöèàíñêîå êðóæåâî áûëî î÷åíü äîðîãèì óäîâîëüñòâèåì. Èì îòäåëûâàëè è áåëüå, è âåðõíþþ îäåæäó, è îáóâü, ÷òî íåðåäêî âëåòàëî â êîïåå÷êó: íà îòäåëêó îäíîãî ëèøü ïëîåíîãî âîðîòíèêà ôðèçà øëî îò 10 äî 15 ìåòðîâ êðóæåâà!

Íà îñòðîâàõ Áóðàíî,Ïåëëåñòðèíà, ×èîäæà è Ìóðàíî íàëàäèëîñü êðóæåâíîå ïðîèçâîäñòâî, ãäå ðóêàìè òðåõ òûñÿ÷ ðûáàöêèõ æåí è äî÷åðåé òâîðèëîñü óäèâèòåëüíîå êðóæåâî, äëÿ ñîçäàíèÿ êîòîðîãî èñïîëüçîâàëîñü 3-4 òûñÿ÷è íèòåé íà îäíî èçäåëèå. Çàêîíîìåðíî, ÷òî âñåãî ÷åðåç 10 ëåò ýòè ìàíóôàêòóðû ñòàëè îôèöèàëüíûìè ïîñòàâùèêàìè êðóæåâà äëÿ êîðîëåâñêîãî äâîðà. Ýòî òîí÷àéøåå ôèëèãðàííîå êðóæåâî äî ñèõ ïîð ñ÷èòàåòñÿ îáðàçöîâûì è íå ïîääàåòñÿ âåÿíèþ ìîäû.


Íåçàâåðøåííîå
Burano Lace School Êðóæåâà Áóðàíî øêîëà
ca. 1880 C. 1880
Øêîëà áûëà ñîçäàíà äëÿ áëàãîòâîðèòåëüíûõ ïðè÷èíàì, è ñ êîðîëåâñêèì ïàòðîíàæåì ïîñëå ñóðîâîé çèìû 1872ãîäà. The Venetian lagoon froze and the communities dependent on fishing were badly affected. Âåíåöèàíñêàÿ ëàãóíà çàìåðçëà è îáùèíû, çàâèñÿùèå îò ðûáàëêè áûëè ñèëüíî çàòðîíóòû. The school revived the skill that had made Venice the major producer of needle lace in the 16th and 17th centuries. Áûëà âîçðîæäåíà øêîëà ìàñòåðñòâà, êîòîðàÿ áûëà â Âåíåöèè êðóïíûì ïðîèçâîäèòåëåì èãîëüíîãî êðóæåâà â 16-ì è 17-ì âåêàõ.

Flounce
Place of origin:Burano (made)
Date:1880s (made)




Ýòà âóàëü èëè øàëå ñî÷åòàåò êðóæåâî ðó÷íîé èãëû è ìîòèâû áîáèíîãî êðóæåâà.
The market for all qualities of lace grew in the mid 19th century. Ðûíîê äëÿ âñåõ êà÷åñòâ êðóæåâî âûðîñ â ñåðåäèíå 19 âåêà. Handmade lace was a status symbol that demonstrated wealth and position. Êðóæåâî ðó÷íîé ðàáîòû áûëà ñèìâîëîì ñòàòóñà, áîãàòñòâà è ïîëîæåíèÿ. In the 1850s and 1860s people began to spend large quantities on luxury lace as they had done in the 18th century.  1850 è 1860 ëþäè ñòàëè òðàòèòü äåíüãè â áîëüøèõ êîëè÷åñòâàõ íà ðîñêîøíûå êðóæåâà, êàê ýòî áûëî â 18 âåêå. Silk lace and embroidered nets were fashionable in the early years of the 19th century. Øåëêîâûå êðóæåâà è âûøèòûå íà ñåòêå áûëè âåñüìà ìîäíûìè â ïåðâûå ãîäû 19-ãî âåêà. Manufacturers made great efforts to improve and expand the industry to meet demand. Ïðîèçâîäèòåëè ïðèëàãàþò áîëüøèå óñèëèÿ äëÿ ñîâåðøåíñòâîâàíèÿ è ðàñøèðåíèÿ ïðîìûøëåííîñòè äëÿ óäîâëåòâîðåíèÿ ñïðîñà. By the mid 1840s, Brussels was again the leading centre for fashion lace. Ê ñåðåäèíå 1840-õ ãîäàõ Áðþññåëü âíîâü âåäóùèì öåíòðîì ìîäû êðóæåâî. Handmade net remained fashionable until the 1850s, when this piece was made.


Stole
Burano Lace School
ca. 1900






---------------------------Áîáèííîå êðóæåâî------------------


Shawl Øàëü. Øàíòèëüè.
Place of origin:Chantilly (probably, made)
Date:1860-1870 (made)
Artist/Maker:Unknown
Materials and Techniques:Silk bobbin lace


Shawl Øàëü. Øàíòèëüè.
Place of origin:Chantilly (probably, made)
Date:1860-1870 (made)





---------------------------Áåëüãèéñêîå êðóæåâî--------------------------

Áåëüãèéñêèé ãîðîä Áðþããå óæå íåñêîëüêî âåêîâ ÿâëÿåòñÿ ñèíîíèìîì ìàñòåðñêîãî êðóæåâîïëåòåíèÿ.  âåêå îíî çäåñü ñòàëî åäâà ëè íå îñíîâíûì èñòî÷íèêîì äîõîäîâ äëÿ áåäíûõ ñëîåâ íàñåëåíèÿ. Ïðîèçâîäñòâî êðóæåâ íà÷àëî íàáèðàòü îáîðîòû â 1717 ãîäó, êîãäà åïèñêîï Áðþããå Van Susteran ïðåäëîæèë áåäíÿêàì ïîïðàâèòü ñâîå ôèíàíñîâîå ïîëîæåíèå ïîñðåäñòâîì ýòîãî ðåìåñëà. Íàçâàòü èäåþ áëåñòÿùåé áûëî òðóäíî: òðóäîåìêàÿ êðîïîòëèâàÿ ðàáîòà ïðèíîñèëà ñîâñåì íåáîëüøîé äîõîä, íî äðóãîãî âûõîäà ó ëþäåé íå áûëî. Îáó÷àòü íåèìóùèõ ýòîìó èñêóññòâó âçÿëèñü âîëîíòåðêè èç Ñîáðàíèÿ Àïîñòîëüñêèõ Ñåñòåð. Îíè òàê ðüÿíî ïðèíÿëèñü çà ðàáîòó, ÷òî âñêîðå ñìîãëè õîðîøî îòëàäèòü ïðîèçâîäñòâî è äàæå ïîëó÷èòü áîëüøåå ïîìåùåíèå. Ê 1860 ãîäó êîëè÷åñòâî ó÷åíèêîâ ïðåâûñèëî 400 ÷åëîâåê, êðóæåâîïëåòåíèå ðàñöâåëî ïûøíûì öâåòîì, à åãî èñòîðèÿ îáîãàòèëàñü ìíîæåñòâîì äîñåëå íåâèäàííûõ óçîðîâ.
Òîíêîå ëüíÿíîå êðóæåâî èçãîòàâëèâàëîñü ðóêàìè ìàëåíüêèõ äåâî÷åê, âåäü òîëüêî èõ ÷óòêèå ïàëü÷èêè ìîãëè óëîâèòü ìîìåíò, êîãäà íèòêà ñòàíîâèëàñü íóæíîé òîëùèíû.



Christening cap
Place of origin:Belgium (lace, made)
England (assembled)
Date:1650-1700 (made)


Flounce Bobbin lace worked in linen thread

Place of origin:Brussels (city) (made)
Date:ca. 1740 (made)


Flounce Bobbin lace worked in linen thread

Place of origin:Brussels (city) (made)
Date:ca. 1740 (made)


Áðþññåëü
1730-1750
Ìàòåðèàëû è ìåòîäû: Bobbin lace Êîêëþøêà êðóæåâî

Áðþññåëü
1730-1750
Ìàòåðèàëû è ìåòîäû: Bobbin lace Êîêëþøêà êðóæåâî


old picture , unknown people who made this piece for the Queen Maria Hendrikka of the belgians; Royal Collection ca. 1878


Apron
Place of origin:Brussels (city) (made)
Date:mid 18th century (made)




==================================

Ðåçüáà ïî äåðåâó.

Place of origin:London (made)
Date:ca. 1690 (made)
Artist/Maker:Gibbons, Grinling (maker)
Materials and Techniques:Limewood, with raised and openwork carving

---------------------------------------------------------
Ôðàíöóçñêîå êðóæåâî è 19 âåê íå âîøëè- ñëèøêîì áîëüøîé ïîñò áû ïîëó÷èëñÿ, åñëè èíòåðåñíî- ïèøèòå, ïðîäîëæó.


http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace?uselang=ru
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace_in_art
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Jabots
http://www.costumes.org/History/100pages/17THLACE.HTM
http://fashionismymuse.blogspot.com/search/label/Lace
http://www.darievna.ru/page/istorija-kruzheva
http://collections.vam.ac.uk/
Èñòî÷íèê:http://antique-fashion.livejournal.com/191105.html

Ðóáðèêè:  Èñòîðèÿ ìîäû

 

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