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Создан: 23.04.2019
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How to Install a New Shower Unit

Четверг, 25 Апреля 2019 г. 14:48 + в цитатник

A successful shower installation needs cautious preparation and a great deal of work. Most of the times, you will require to do 3 kinds of jobs: framing walls, setting up the pipes, and ending up walls.

Preparation

Firstly, you need to choose the kind of shower that you wish to install. It is important to determine whether the chosen shower is capable of dealing with particular systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. A lot of shower systems nowadays are created to be versatile to different water pressures (such as saved warm water and cold mains).

It is also crucial to take into account the water pressure and the planning of the piping and drainage for the shower

Various Kinds Of Shower Units

Push-on Mixer: The tube and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be linked to the bath tap based on your requirement, and the water temperature can be changed by means of the taps. Push-on mixers are low-cost and very basic to set up. Nevertheless, although the hose pipe connection is easy, it is quickly removed. Additionally, it is bothersome to change the temperature.

Bath/Shower Mixer: The hose and spray of this kind of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature level can be changed through the bath taps. It is a very low-cost choice and no extra pipes is involved. However, the bath/shower mixers also struggle with inconvenient temperature control options.

Handbook Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of a manual mixer shower unit are a part of the wall system and the cold and hot water supplies are linked to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are managed through either one or a variety of knobs (in more pricey showers). Although temperature level control is a lot easier in manual mixer types, they are more expensive than the formerly discussed mixers. They likewise require extra plumbing of hot and cold water system pipelines.

Thermostatic Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this shower type belong of the wall unit and the cold and hot water materials are linked to a single valve here too. It is total with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to avoid it from becoming too hot. Among the most significant advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes hassle-free temperature level control. Nevertheless, it is the most expensive of the various mixer choices.

Power Shower: A power shower is a single system including an effective electrical pump that can modifying both the water pressure and temperature level. This type of shower can be fitted if there is supply of water from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the modification of both pressure and temperature simple. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water warmed directly by the shower or where the water is supplied by a mix boiler under mains pressure.

Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats the water electrically. It is important to note that for this shower type to be set up, the mains pressure requires to be at least 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit enables the temperature and pressure to be changed via a knob. Models with temperature stabilisers are better as they stay unaffected by other taps somewhere else in usage within the household. A significant disadvantage of electric showers is that the control knob just enables the alternative of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a greater pressure. This is bothersome in the winter season when the spray is frequently weak and the mains water is chillier. However, this problem is dealt with in some models which are available with a winter/summer setting.

Method

Depending on the type of shower you want to install, the shower head must either be suited order to prevent its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it needs to have a check valve.

Prior to starting, it is advisable to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work involved. Additionally, the drainage system to remove the waste water will need to be prepared. Both positions of the cable television path and the shower switch will likewise need to be thought about if a rapid or electric shower system is being installed.

Use the guideline guide provided with the shower system to fit the shower control.

Before fitting the pipelines that will provide the water to the shower system, it is important to cut off the supply of water. In order to secure the pipes, they need to be offered a waterproof covering and likewise fitted with separating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the general appearance.

Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.

Connect the primary shower control to the pipelines that will be supplying the water (This may need a female screw thread adapter).

Reconnect the water system and test the pipelines for any leakages, as some may need tightening.

If you are installing an electrical shower, keep in mind to turn off the electrical power supply prior to making any electrical connections. As soon as these connections have been made (there ought to be assistance within the user's manual), the power supply can be switched back on.

Changing Water Pressure to Suit Your Shower

The cold water tank can be raised to a higher height (in some cases just 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden assistance beneath the original source it - potentially made up of struts and blockboards. If you choose this choice, the main and distribution pipes will also have to be raised to fulfill the brand-new height of the tank.

Additionally, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is chosen, it needs to be linked into the power supply in order to run.

Piping and Drainage

It is best to utilize 15mm size supply pipes, and make the runs to the shower as brief and straight as possible so regarding maintain maximum pressure and minimise heat loss. Additionally, by minimising the use of elbows for pipe corners, you can decrease the resistance in the circulation of the water system. You can accomplish this by bending the pipelines rather.

Many Typical Errors

# Breaching or disregarding regional code limitations.

# Utilizing pipes that are too little.

# Connecting copper to galvanized without utilizing a brass or dielectric fitting in between the 2.

# Not using tape or pipe compound at threaded joints.

# Not leveling your fixtures when installing them.

# Not setting up an air gap filling for components.

# Cutting supply stub outs too short to set up the shutoff valves onto after the finished wall is in location.

# Not effectively aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will trigger a leakage.).

# When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outdoors pipe valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can trigger problems in your sink faucets and other pipes trim.


 

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