Wobbly Squares Blanket by Jennifer Uribe

Supplies: 3 skeins Red Heart Super Saver Yarn in 3 different colors (7 oz per skein)
- I used white, Perfect Pink, and Petal Pink
- J Hook (6.00 mm)
- Tapestry needle

Stitches Needed:

Magic Circle
Chain
dc2tog (Double crochet together)  Click here for a video from Moogly to learn how to crochet this stitch.
slip stitch
Standing DC  Click here for a video from Moogly to learn how to crochet a standing dc.
Standing dc2tog: begin a standing dc, pull yarn through first two loops only.  Yarn over, insert hook through next chain 1 space and complete the dc2tog.
DC

Note about the corners: Each corner is worked over three stitches.  They will consist of the second half of a dc2tog, chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, the first half of a dc2tog.  You will have what appears to be 4 dcs in each corner.
 

Pattern:

** Click here for a photo tutorial of the first 3 rows. **

Row 1: Using Color 1, crochet a magic circle, chain 2 (does not count as a stitch).  Crochet one dc2tog, then chain 1. Repeat from * to * seven more times.  Join to the top of the first dc2tog. Fasten off. Close magic circle.
 

In each of the following rows, all stitches will be worked in the chain 1 spaces of the previous row.

Row 2: Using Color 2, using the standing double crochet method, join the new color in one of the chain 1 spaces, but only pull through the first two loops (beginning of first dc2tog started). Yarn over and complete the dc2tog in the next chain space.  Chain 1. Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space. To form the first corner, we will continue to work in the same space.  Chain 1, double crochet, chain 1, double crochet, chain 1 all in the same space.  To complete the corner, begin the next dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space.  Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1.  *Make a corner (Chain 1, double crochet, chain 1, double crochet, chain 1 all in the same space.  To complete the corner, begin the next dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space.). Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space.*  Repeat  from * to * two more times.  Join to the top of the standing dc2tog. Fasten off.

 {You may choose to weave in your ends as you go or leave them until the end.}

Row 3: Using Color 3, join using the standing double crochet method in any space but a corner.  Remember to only pull through the first two loops (beginning of first dc2tog started). Yarn over and complete the dc2tog in the next chain space.  Chain 1. Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space. Continue this pattern, dc2tog, chain 1, begin next dc2tog in the same space, until you reach a corner.  Complete the final dc2tog in the corner, chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start dc2tog in the corner and complete in the next stitch.  Continue around joining to the top of the standing dc2tog.  Fasten off.

Rows 4-27: Continue the pattern as directed in Row 3 for each additional row.  Alternate colors so that your wobbly squares are visible.

Finished size at gauge: about 36 inches.

I chose not to add a border to my blanket, but feel free to add one to yours.

Wobbly Square Blanket Photo Tutorial

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If you've been thinking about making your own Wobbly Squares Blanket, but were not sure how to start, this photo tutorial should get you on the right path. I will take you through the first 3 rows.  After that, the pattern should be pretty self-explanatory.

Let's get started!

Here's a hint throughout this pattern: Any time you complete a dc2tog, you will chain 1.

To start, form a magic circle and chain 2 (does not count as a stitch).  *Crochet a dc2tog and chain 1.* Repeat from * to * seven times. Slip stitch into the top of the first dc2tog.  Fasten off. (8 dc2tog, 8 chain 1s)

Row 1

For Row 2, join a new color in a chain 1 space using the standing dc2tog method, (this is a standing dc, but you will only draw a loop through the first two loops. The dc2tog will be completed in the next chain 1 space).

Join to a chain 1 space using the standing dc2tog.

The dc2tog is completed in the next chain 1 space.

Chain 1 and start the next dc2tog in the same space. Complete the dc2tog in the next chain 1 space.

You can see that a V is formed by the two sides of the 2 separate dc2togs.

Now, let's form the corner.  Chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1 all in the same space. Start your next dc2tog in the space as well.

First corner is formed.

Complete the dc2tog in the next chain 1 space and chain 1. Begin the next dc2tog in the same space and complete in the next.  Form the second corner in this space. Chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1.  Start your next dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space.

Continue the pattern around so that you have 4 corners separated by 4 Vs. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the first dc2tog. To see the rectangle shape, you can stretch out the dc corner spaces.

Now let's start Row 3.  Join a new color in a chain 1 space using the standing dc2tog method. Complete the dc2tog in the next chain 1 space.

Chain 1 and start a new dc2tog in the same space.  Complete it in the next chain 1 space and chain 1. Continue making dc2tog and chain 1 until you reach the middle V of the corner.

To make the corner, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start next dc2tog in the same space.  Complete it in the next chain 1 space.

Dc2tog, chain 1 across ( a total of 3 times) to the next middle V in the corner space.  Form next corner. Repeat around. After last dc2tog, chain 1 and slip stitch to the top of the standing dc2tog.

 

To crochet consecutive rows, begin with a standing dc2tog in a chain 1 space. Dc2tog, chain 1 across until you reach the middle V of a corner.  Complete a corner and continue across each side, crocheting corners in the middle V of each corner. The number of dc2togs will increase each row as the square gets bigger and bigger.