I’m excited to bring you this clutch pattern! It converts from a tote into a clutch, with beautiful circle handles. I wrote this pattern for Pellon Projects; it uses 3 different kinds of interfacing, which will give you a chance to get familiar with each.This pattern is appropriate for intermediate level sewing. It features inner pockets, a magnetic closure, and a metal buckle. You will also be required to make one buttonhole.ALL SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE 1/2″ UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED. PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING. Printable Instructions and Pattern Pieces

SUPPLIES
– 1/4 yard (or a fat quarter) exterior fabric
– 2/3 yard interior fabric
– 1/2 yard side accent/handle fabric
– 2 yards Pellon SF-101 fusible woven interfacing
– 1/2 yard Pellon Fusible Fleece
– 1/2 yard Pellon Decor-Bond
– magnetic snap
– metal buckle with tongue (I used the Dritz 1-5/8″ fashion buckle)
– coordinating thread
– hand sewing needle

STEP 1 ~ CUT OUT YOUR FABRIC 
From the Exterior Fabric
1a. Cut 2 pieces, each measuring 8″ x 11″. These will be your Exterior Main Panels.

From the Interior Fabric

1b. Cut 2 pieces, each measuring 11″ x 11″. These will be your Interior Main Panels.

1c. Cut 4 pieces, each measuring 11″ x 6″. These will be the Pockets.

From the Accent Fabric


1d. Cut 4 pieces, each measuring 2″ x 11″. These will be the Side Panels.

1e. Cut 2 pieces, each measuring 2″ x 3″. These will be the Bottom Strap pieces.

1f. Using the Top Strap piece that you printed out, cut 2 pieces from the Accent Fabric.

1g. Using the Handle pattern piece that you printed out, cut 4 pieces from the Accent Fabric.

From the Pellon SF-101 Fusible Woven Interfacing


1h. Repeat Step 1a. through Step 1g.

From the Pellon Fusible Fleece


1i. Repeat Step 1a. and Step 1b. Also cut two 2″ x 2″ squares from the fleece.

From the Pellon Decor-Bond


1j. Cut 8 pieces from the Handle pattern piece. Trim the Handle by approximately 1/4″ on all edges (except trim by 1/2″ in the inner circle) in order to reduce bulk in the seam allowance.

1k. Cut 8 pieces, each measuring 2″ x 11″.

STEP 2 ~ FUSE YOUR FABRICS


2a. Take 1 Exterior Main Panel and one of the corresponding fusible woven interfacing pieces. Fuse the woven interfacing to the wrong side of the Exterior Main Panel using manufacturer instructions. Then, fuse the fusible fleece to the interfaced side of the Exterior Main Panel. Repeat for the other Exterior Main Panel.

2b. Repeat Step 2a. for both Interior Main Panels.

2c. Take one Bottom Strap Piece and one of the corresponding fusible woven interfacing pieces. Fuse. Repeat for the remaining Bottom Strap Piece, both of the Top Strap Pieces, and each of the Pockets.

2d. Take one Handle Piece and one of the corresponding fusible woven interfacing pieces. Fuse. Then, fuse a Decor Bond Handle piece to the interfaced side of the Handle. Repeat so that you have fused a total of 2 pieces of Decor Bond to the Handle. Repeat this step for the remaining Handle pieces, and also for all of the Side Panels.

STEP 3 ~ ASSEMBLE THE INTERIOR
 

3a. Take 2 of the Pocket pieces and place them, right sides together. Sew along one 11″ edge. Press seam open.

3b. Turn the Pocket so it is wrong sides together. Press again along the sewn edge so that it lies flat. Topstitch 1/4″ from the edge.

3c. Repeat Step 3a. and Step 3b. for the 2 remaining Pocket pieces.

3d. Take one of the Interior Main Panels, right side facing you. Lay one Pocket with the raw edge even with the bottom of the Interior Main Panel. Pin, then baste along the raw edges of the Pocket (you will not baste the sewn edge of the Pocket). Repeat for the remaining Interior Main Panel and Pocket.

3e. Take one of the Handle Pieces. Sew along 1 long edge, pivoting through the curve, approximately 1/4″ from the raw edge of the fabric. Also sew 1/2″ along the inside circle of the Handle. Clip the ‘valley’ of the fabric with slits, and notch the ‘peak’ of the fabric with small v’s, approximately every 1/2″. Be sure not to cut in to your stitching.

3f. Turn your iron on. Using your fingers, turn the fabric to the wrong side at your stitches, then slowly ease along your fabric with your iron. It is especially important to press the inside circle very well.

3g. Repeat Step 3e. and Step 3f. for all 4 Handle pieces (set 2 of the Handles aside for the exterior).

3h. Take one Interior Main Panel and measure down 3/4″ from the top (the pocket will be at the bottom). Make a mark on the top left and top right corners. Align the bottom straight edges of the Handle along the marks that you made, and pin to the Interior Main Panel. Edgestitch on the Handle along the long pressed edge, 1/8″ from the edge. You will not stitch the inside circle of the Handle at this time. 

3i. Trim inside the inner circle of the Handle where the Interior Main Panel is sticking out. You’ll want to flip it over to the wrong side and trim an additional 1/2″ away.

3j. Repeat Step 3h. and Step 3i. for the other Interior Main Panel and Handle.

STEP 4 ~ INSTALL THE MAGNETIC SNAP
 

4a. Take 1 Interior Main Panel piece and 1 of the fleece squares that you cut in Step 1i. Take the washer from one of the prongs and mark the prong placement with a fabric marker or chalk, approximately in the center of the Thermolam. Cut small slits at the marks. The reason that you are using the fleece is that it will help to reinforce your fabric against the pull from the magnetic snap every time you open and shut the clutch.

 

4d. Slide the prongs of the snap through the right side of the Interior Main Panel. Place the fleece square, then the washer, over the prongs. Close the prongs outward (use pliers with a piece of scrap fabric over the metal, if you need to), making sure they lie flat.

 

4e. Repeat Steps 4a. through 4d. to attach the other half of the snap to the other Interior Main Panel.

STEP 5 ~ ASSEMBLE THE EXTERIOR
 

5a. Take one of your Exterior Main Panels and one Side Panel. With right sides facing, place the Side Panel along the 11″ edge on the left-hand side of the Exterior Main Panel. Sew along the 11″ edge. Press seam toward the Side Panel. Repeat this step for another Side Panel and the right-hand side of the Exterior Main Panel.

5b. Edgestitch on the Side Panel 1/8″ from the seam on the left side of the Exterior. Then edgestitch 1/4″ from the stitches that you just made. Sew slowly, and make sure that the seam allowance is underneath your stitching; this will ensure that it gets tacked down securely. Now your Side Panel will have a nice finished look. Repeat for the right side of the Exterior.

5c. Repeat Step 3h. to attach each remaining Handle to each Exterior Main Panel.

STEP 6 ~ ASSEMBLE THE STRAPS/BUCKLE
 

6a. Take both of your Bottom Strap pieces. Place them right sides together, and stitch along each 3″ edge. Turn Bottom Strap right side out and press.

6b. Make a mark on the bottom of one Exterior Main Panel, over 4-7/8″ from the left hand edge.

6c. Place your Bottom Strap piece to the right of the mark that you made in Step 6b. One raw edge of the Bottom Strap should be even with the raw edge of the Exterior Main Panel. Slide the metal buckle over the Bottom Strap, then fold the Bottom Strap down so that now both of the raw edges of the Bottom Strap are even with the bottom of the Exterior Main Panel. Pin in place.

6d. Take both of the Top Strap pieces and place them, right sides together. Sew along 3 edges but do not sew the short straight edge.

6e. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4″, and clip the corner off, which will help it lie more flat. Turn the Top Strap right sides out and press.

6f. Edgestitch the Top Strap 1/8″ from the sewn edges (again, do not sew the straight short edge), being sure to pivot at the corners; then edgestitch the Top Strap 1/4″ from what you just sewed.

6g. On the Top Strap piece, make a buttonhole 1-1/2″ down from the pointed top corner.

6h. Remove the pin from under the Bottom Strap. Slide the Top Strap piece under the Bottom Strap piece, making sure to re-adjust the buckle. The raw edges of all Strap pieces should be even with the bottom edge of the Exterior Main Panel. Re-pin.

6i. Baste across the bottom of the Exterior Main Panel, attaching the Strap pieces. Sew horizontally right under the metal buckle, as close to the buckle as you are able to (you might want to pop your zipper foot on for this).

STEP 7 ~ ASSEMBLE THE CLUTCH
 

7a. Take both Interior Main Panels, and place right sides together. Pin along the 3 straight edges. Sew along those 3 straight edges only, with a 5/8″ seam. This will help the interior fit more snuggly inside your exterior. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4″. Clip the 2 bottom corners, being careful not to cut into your stitching. Leave the Interior wrong side out.

7b. Take both Exterior Main Panels, and place right sides together (you might want to buckle the strap so that it does not get caught in the stitching). Pin along the 3 straight edges. Sew along those 3 straight edges only, with a 1/2″ seam. When you get to the part where the straps are, sew slowly or hand crank your needle, and backstitch again (to give the strap added strength). Clip the 2 bottom corners. Press seams open, and turn the Exterior right side out.

7c. Place the Exterior inside of the Interior. Make sure the Handles and the side seams are aligned, then pin in place. Make sure you pin an exterior handle to an interior handle (otherwise you might be sewing the bag shut!).

7d. Sew the top of the Handles, all along the top of the clutch, with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Do not stitch the inside circles. Clip the ‘valley’ of the fabric with slits, and notch the ‘peak’ of the fabric with small v’s, approximately every 1/2″. Be sure not to cut in to your stitching.

7e. Turn the clutch right side out through one of the openings. Edgestitch the tops of the handles, 1/4″ from the edge, all the way around.

7f. Match the insides of the handles. You should have a nice pressed edge to work with from earlier. Pin the inside circles. Edgestitch the inside circles, 1/4″ from the edge. Note: Depending on your machine, you may not be able to sew around the entire inside circle of the handles. I was able to sew half by machine and half by hand. This is the trickiest (and last!) step of the pattern, so take your time…the results will be worth your patience!
 

CONGRATULATIONS! You’re finished!
Give your bag a good pressing for a professional-looking finish. Now you have a tote that collapses into a clutch, held in place with the metal buckle!

If you have any questions about this pattern, feel free to e-mail me directly at sara@sewsweetness.com, or check out my Flickr Group! I would love to see your completed project posted there!

 

Today, I am very excited to be guest posting for Clover and Violet’s Summertime Adventures Series! This week is about travel sewing kits, and I’ve teamed up with Rachael from Imagine Gnats to bring you this great travel embroidery case. This case will also be available on Pellon Projects.

 

This square embroidery travel case features a zipper that goes almost all the way around the side panel and a top handle for easy portability. The back of the case has a large pocket that will hold your 6″ or 8″ embroidery hoops. Inside is a sturdy 5-section divider that will hold all of your carded embroidery floss, plus extra room for scissors and other notions. You can find this and other fun sewing projects at Pellon Projects!

 

The embroidery design for the front of the case is from Rachael of Imagine Gnats. The pattern, also included in this project, has full instructions, templates, and stitch/floss color guide. This was only my third try at embroidery; I don’t think I messed up too badly.  Even if you are new to embroidery, you will have lots of fun with this beautiful design!

I was also able to use Cosmo embroidery floss for the first time. The threads look so much more smooth than either DMC or Iris flosses, and they are also glossier. Pink Castle Fabrics carries some nice Cosmo floss starter kits, if you are interested in taking a peek!

Embroidery Pattern and Printable Instructions


ALL SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE 1/2″ UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED.

Finished size: 9.5″ long x 7″ high x 1.75 deep


SUPPLIES


– 1/2 yard exterior fabric
– 1/2 yard interior fabric
– 9″ x 7″ piece of fabric for the embroidery (we used Kona white)
– 1/3 yard Pellon Thermolam fusible interfacing
– 1 yard Pellon SF-101 fusible woven interfacing
– 1/3 yard Pellon Decor Bond fusible interfacing
– 28″ zipper (trim to 28″ including the tape)
– fabric marker or chalk
– ruler
– hand sewing needle
– zipper foot
– seam ripper
– turning tool

STEP 1 ~ CUT YOUR FABRICS


From the Exterior Fabric


1a. Cut 1 piece measuring 10.5″ long x 8″ high, for 1 of the Exterior Main Panels (the other Exterior Main Panel will be assembled using your embroidery).

1b. Cut 1 piece measuring 3.75″ x 30″ for your Exterior Zipper Panel.

1c. Cut 1 piece measuring 2.5″ x 5.5″ for the Exterior Top Panel.

1d. Cut 2 pieces, each measuring 10.5″ x 7″ for the Pocket.

1e. Cut 2 pieces, each measuring 2″ x 6.5″, for the Handles.

1f. Cut 2 strips, each measuring 1″ x 7″.

1g. Cut 2 strips, each measuring 7/8″ x 11.5″

From the Interior Fabric


1h. Repeat Steps 2a. through 2c. for the Interior pieces.

1i. Cut 5 pieces, each measuring 4″ x 18-1/2″ for the Dividers.

From the Pellon Thermolam


1j. Cut 4 pieces, each measuring 8″ x 10.5″

1k. Cut 2 pieces, each measuring 3.75″ x 30″.

1l. Cut 2 pieces, each measuring 2.5″ x 5.5″.

1m. Cut 1 piece measuring 1″ x 5.25″ for the Handle Insert.

From the Pellon SF-101


1n. Cut 2 pieces, each measuring 2″ x 6.5″.

1o. Cut 5 pieces, each measuring 4″ x 18-1/2″ (dividers)

1p. Cut 2 pieces, each measuring 10.5″ x 7″.

From the Pellon Decor Bond


1q. Cut 10 pieces, each measuring 1-1/4″ x 17″ (dividers)

STEP 2 ~ EMBROIDER THE DESIGN


2a. Using your 9″ x 7″ piece of fabric, embroider the design using the attached template and instructions.

2b. Take one of your 1″ x 7″ strips cut from the exterior fabric. The long edge of the strip should be even with the right-hand edge of your embroidered piece. Sew, right sides together, using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Repeat with the remaining 1″ x 7″ strip and the left-hand edge of the embroidery. Press seams open.

2c. Take one of your 7/8″ x 11.5″ strips cut from the exterior fabric. The long edge of the strip should be even with the top edge of your embroidered piece. Sew, right sides together, using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Repeat with the remaining 7/8″ x 11.5″ strip and the bottom edge of the embroidery. Press seams open. This assembled embroidered piece will now serve as one of your Exterior Main Panels.

STEP 3 ~ FUSE YOUR FABRICS


3a. Take 1 Exterior Main Panel and one of the corresponding pieces of Pellon Thermolam. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the Exterior Main Panel according to manufacturer instructions. Repeat for the remaining Exterior Main Panel, the Exterior Zipper Panel, Exterior Top Panel, both Interior Main Panels, Interior Zipper Panel, and the Interior Top Panel.

3b. Take 1 Pocket piece and one of the corresponding pieces of Pellon SF-101. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the Pocket according to manufacturer instructions. Repeat for the remaining Pocket and both of the Handle pieces.

STEP 4 ~ ATTACH THE ZIPPER


4a. Take your Exterior Zipper Panel and cut it in half, lengthwise.

4b. Place the resulting 2 pieces right sides together. With your fabric marker, measure and make a mark that is 1″ in from that left-hand edge. Do the same for the right-hand edge. Sew from the mark to the corresponding edge (each line of stitching will be only 1″ long), using a 5/8″ seam allowance.

 

 

 

 

 

4f. With the right side of the Exterior Zipper Panel facing you, remove the basting stitches with your seam ripper.




STEP 5 ~ MAKE THE HANDLE


5a. Take both of your Handle pieces, and place them right sides together. Sew along both of the long edges.


5b. Turn your Handle right side out through one of the openings. Press. Pass the Thermolam Handle Insert into the tube. Fuse according to manufacturer instructions.


Helpful Hint: Use a safety pin attached to one end of the Handle Insert to pass it through the tube more easily.

 

5c. Turn both of the unfinished edges in by approximately 1/2″. Topstitch 1/4″ from both of the finished edges.
 

5d. Take your Exterior Top Panel. Make a mark that is in 1″ from both of the short edges.
 

5e. Place 1 short edge of the Handle to the inside of one of the marks that you just made, and centered. Pin in place. Do the same thing for the remaining short edge of the Handle. Sew on top of the Handle, 1/8″ from both short edges. Then sew another line of stitches that is 1/8″ from the previous stitching.




STEP 6 ~ ASSEMBLE THE BAG


6a. Place both Pocket pieces right sides together. Sew along 1 long edge. Press the seam open.
 

6b. Turn the fabrics so that they are wrong sides together, press again, and topstitch the straight edge, 1/8″ from the edge.
 

6c. Take the Exterior Main Panel without the embroidery, and place the Pocket that you just sewed, with the bottom raw edges of both even. Baste the Pocket to the Exterior Main Panel using a 1/4″ seam allowance.


6d. Take the Exterior Zipper Panel and the Exterior Top Panel and place them, right sides together, along one short edge. Sew. Press seam open.

 

6e. Place the remaining short edges of the Exterior Zipper Panel and the Exterior Top Panel right sides together and sew (it will form a ‘ring’). Make sure that they are not twisted. Press seam open. Unzip the zipper, so that you will be able to turn the bag right sides out later.

 

 

6f. Take the assembled Exterior Zipper Panel and the Exterior Main Panel with the embroidery. Place the long edge of the Exterior Zipper Panel against the raw edge of the Exterior Main Panel and pin in place. The edge of the seam with the handle should be in 2-1/2″ from the right-hand corner of the Exterior Main Panel. When you get to the corners, ease a slight curve. Continue easing and pinning the Exterior Zipper Panel along the raw edge of the Exterior Main Panel until you have worked your way all around. Sew along the pinned edge. Press the seam toward the Main Panel.

 

6g. Repeat the previous step to attach the remaining Exterior Main Panel to the Exterior Zipper Panel. You will want the opening of the Pocket to be facing the end with the Handle. Again, the edge of the seam with the handle should be in 2-1/2″ from the right-hand corner of the Exterior Main Panel. Make sure the Handle is safely tucked inside.

 

 

6h. Notch small v’s into the seam allowance of the corners of both Exterior Main Panels, being careful not to cut into the seam allowance.

6i. Repeat Steps 4a. and 4b. for the Interior Zipper Panel. Press the center of the panel in by 5/8″ on each side.

6j. USING A 5/8″ SEAM ALLOWANCE (this will help the interior sit snuggly in the exterior), repeat Steps 6d. through 6h. to assemble the Interior.

6k. Turn your exterior right side out and your interior wrong side out. Place the interior inside of the exterior (so that wrong sides will be touching). Pin in place along the pressed edges of the Interior Zipper Panel against the wrong side of your zipper.

 

6l. With your hand sewing needle and coordinating thread, slipstitch the pressed edge of the Interior Zipper Panel, to the wrong side of your zipper.

6m. Please give your bag a good pressing for a nice, professional look.

STEP 7 ~ ASSEMBLE THE DIVIDERS


7a. Take 1 of your Divider pieces and fold it in half, right sides together, along the long edge. Sew along that long edge.

7b. Turn your Divider right side out using the turning tool. Press. Turn 1 raw edge in by approximately 1/2″. Press.

7c. Slip 2 pieces of your Decor Bond inside of the assembled Divider. Again, using a safety pin to guide the Decor Bond through the tube will be helpful. Fuse according to manufacturer instructions.

7d. Measuring in from the raw edge of the Divider, make the following marks:
– 1/2″
– 2-1/4″
– 9-1/4″
– 11″

7e. Stitch on top of the marks that you just drew.

7f. Slide the raw edge of the Divider into the pressed edge on the opposite end, by 1/4″. Topstitch 1/4″ from the pressed edge (this will create a ‘ring’ with the fabric).

7g. Press along the 4 stitched lines. This will create a rectangle.

7h. Repeat Steps 7a. through 7g. to assemble all 5 Dividers.

7i. Place one Divider on top of another, along the long edges. Topstitch along both long edges, approximately 1/8″ from the edge. Continue adding another Divider until all 5 are connected.

7j. Place the assembled Divider inside of your bag.

Optional: You may wish to adhere the Divider to the  bottom half of your interior with fabric glue.

Congratulations, you’ve finished!!

If you have any questions about this pattern, feel free to e-mail me directly at sara@sewsweetness.com, or check out my Flickr Group! I would love to see your completed project posted there!

Can't you picture Harrison Ford slinging this amazing duffle over his shoulder as Indiana Jones?! We blended heavy canvas and faux leather with webbing and brass zipper accents for the dashing exterior. Inside is a tough rip-stop nylon lining. Even if you're not a world-renowned archeologist and adventurer, this bag is is great way to pack your stuff, whether you're heading across town to the gym or getting away for the weekend. Father's Day is coming up, and this would make a very nice gift for your personal action hero. The combination of fabrics, colors and textures has the perfect feel – a little bit retro and a whole lot cool (just like Dad).  

Our finished bag looks like you could have grabbed it off the shelf at Eddie Bauer®, but don't let the professional finish scare you off. Achieving a polished end result is often easier than you might think. Read through the project a few times before you start, then if a particular part has you stumped, try doing it with scraps to get the hang of it before moving on to your final fabric. And of course, we offer our trademark S4H details and photos to help you through each step. 

We do strongly recommend the heavy canvas and faux leather combo to insure your duffle has the stability and durability you want for active, on-the-go (safari style) use.

The bag finishes at approximately 22" wide x 11" high.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome Horizon Memory Craft 8900 QCP)
• Walking foot - the MC8900 QCP has the built-in AcuFeed Flex™ system, which we used (with the optional narrow walking foot VD) - and love. If you do not have a built-in feeding system, we recommend a Walking foot or similar for working with the tricky and/or thick layers.
• Adjustable Zipper foot - again, we used the built-in AcuFeed Flex™ system on the MC8900 QCP (with the optional zipper foot ED). If you do not have a built-in feeding system, we recommend an Adjustable Narrow Base Zipper foot. 

Fabric and Other Supplies

• 1 yard of 58"+ wide medium to heavy-weight cotton fabric for the bag top exterior; we used 60" wide medium-heavy weight 9 oz. Canvas in Khaki (#EL-239) from Fabric.com
• ½ yard of 45"+ wide heavy-weight faux leather for the bag bottom exterior; we used 54" wide upholstery weight Faux Leather in Boca Cocoa (item #CW-699) from Fabric.com
• 1 yard of 58"+ wide lightweight nylon fabric for the bag lining; we used 62" wide Rip Stop Nylon in Brown (item #DL-264) from Fabric.com
• 1¼ yards of 45" heavyweight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon's 809 Décor Bond® firm fusible
• 4¼ yards of 1½" poly webbing for the handles and carry strap; we used khaki
• TWO 1½"  wide D-rings; we used black plastic
• TWO 1½"  wide swivel hooks; we used black plastic
• ONE 1½" slide; we used black plastic
• ONE 22" metal separating zipper; we used brass
• ONE 9" metal zipper; we used brass
• ½ yard of thin leather for the two zipper pulls
• All-purpose sewing thread in colors to match fabric
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• See-through ruler
• Straight pins 
• Seam gauge 
• Seam ripper
• Iron and ironing board

Getting Started

1. Download and print FOUR copies of the Duffle Bag Side Pattern.
2. Download and print TWO copies of the Duffle Bag Side Pocket Pattern.
   IMPORTANT: Each pattern consists of ONE 8½" x 11" sheet. You must print the PDF files at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page.
3. Cut out the pieces along the solid lines. 
4. Butt together (do not overlap) and tape the four Duffle Bag Side Pattern pieces to form a circle as shown on the diagram printed on the pattern.
5. Butt together (do not overlap) and tape the two Duffle Bag Side Pocket Pattern pieces to form a half circle as shown on the diagram printed on the pattern.
6. From the top exterior fabric (Nutmeg Canvas in our sample), cut the following:
   TWO 23" x 12" rectangles
   ONE 10" x 15" rectangle
   TWO 1¼" x 2" strips for the zipper tabs
   Using the assembled Duffle Bag Side pattern, cut TWO side panel circles
   Using the assembled Duffle Bag Side Pocket pattern, cut TWO side panel pockets
7. From the bottom exterior fabric (Boca Cocoa Faux Leather in our sample), cut ONE 14" x 23" rectangle.
8. From the lining fabric (Brown Rip Stop Nylon in our sample), cut the following:
   ONE 23" x 36" rectangle
   Using the assembled Duffle Bag Side pattern, cut TWO side panel circles
   Using the assembled Duffle Bag Side Pocket pattern, cut TWO side panel pockets
9. From the interfacing, cut the following:
   TWO 23" x 12" rectangles
   Using the assembled Duffle Bag Side pattern, cut TWO side panel circles
   Using the assembled Duffle Bag Side Pocket pattern, cut TWO side panel pockets
10. From the webbing cut the following:
    TWO 36" lengths
    ONE 60" length
    TWO 7" lengths

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

NOTE: As mentioned above, we used the built-in AcuFeed Flex™ system on our Janome MC8900 QCP with the optional narrow foot VD throughout the entire project. If you don't have a built-in feeding system, attach a Walking foot or similar. It helps keep all the layers involved in this project feeding more smoothly.

Apply the interfacing

1. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the two 23" x 12" exterior panels, the two exterior side circles, and the two exterior side pockets.
   

Side pockets

1. Find the two exterior pocket pieces (with interfacing) and the two pocket lining pieces.
2. Place one lining piece and one exterior piece right sides together, aligning all the raw edges. Pin in place along the top edge only.
   
3. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch along the top edge only.
   
4. Press flat.
   
5. Fold the lining to the wrong side of the pocket. Press again.
   
6. Edgestitch on the right side along the top edge only.
7. Run a second line of stitching ¼" from the first. 
   
8. Repeat to create the second pocket.
9. Find the two exterior side circles (with interfacing). 
10. Place a finished pocket on each side circle, matching the curved raw edges. Pin in place.
    
11. Machine baste each pocket in place on its circle within the ½" seam allowance, an approximate ⅜" seam allowance is good.
12. Set the side panels aside.

Front zippered pocket

1. Find ONE of the two 23" x 12" exterior panels (with interfacing), the 10" x 15" exterior pocket panel, and the 9" zipper.
2. Place the 23" x 12" panel wrong side up and flat on your work surface. Orient it properly: 23" wide x 12" high.
3. Find the exact center of the panel (11½" from either side). Mark this point with a pin.
4. Using your fabric pencil and see-through ruler, measure 4½" to the left of the center point and mark, then measure 4½" to the right of the center point and mark. Measure 3½" down from the upper edge and make an intersecting mark. Draw a connecting 9" horizontal line.
   
5. Draw a second line ½" down from the first line and parallel. Join the lines at each end to create a box.
   
6. Place the 10" x 15" panel wrong side up and flat on your work surface. Orient it properly: 10" wide x 15" high.
7. Draw a matching box to what you just drew on the top 10" edge, positioning it ½" from the top raw edge and centered side to side. 
   
8. Place the exterior panel and the pocket panel right sides together aligning the two drawn boxes. The easiest way to line up the boxes is to place a pin at each upper corner on the wrong side of the exterior panel.
   
9. Then, match up the pin points with the pocket on the other side.
   
10. With the wrong side of the exterior panel facing up, stitch around the marked box through both layers.
    
11. Cut through the center of the box, then clip into each corner. 
    
12. Pull the pocket to the inside through the opening, smoothing the corners and edges of the box as best you can. Press.
    
13. Flip over and place the opening over the 9" zipper, centering the zipper's teeth. Pin in place. 
    
14. Edgestitch in place around all four sides.
    
15. Run a second line of stitching ¼" from the first along the BOTTOM of the box opening only.
    
    NOTE: Don't worry too much about keeping your corner pivots and end stitching super-duper perfect; the ends of the opening will be hidden by the webbing when complete. 
16. From the wrong side, fold just the pocket layer in half, bringing the lower edge of the pocket up so it aligns with the upper edge. Pin along the top.
    
17. Flip to the right side. Run a second row of topstitching ¼" from the TOP edgestitching along the TOP of the box opening (matching what you did previously along the bottom edge). You are stitching through all the layers, catching and securing that upper edge of the pocket you just folded up and pinned. Press well. 
    

Side handles

1. Find the two 36" lengths of webbing.
2. Fold each length in half to find the exact center. Mark with a pin. 
3. Measure 3½" to the left of the center point and mark with a pin. 
4. Measure 3½" to the right of the center point and mark with a pin.
   
5. Remove the center pin.
6. Fold the webbing in half, matching the long edges.
7. Edgestitch between the left and right pin points to create the handle.
   
8. Find both exterior side panels, the one with the pocket and the plain panel.
9. On the panel with the pocket, lay one handle length in place. The outer edge of the webbing should be positioned 5½" in from each side. The inner edge of the webbing should just cover either end of the zipper "box." The ends of the webbing should be flush with the lower raw edge of the panel. Be careful to insure the handle loop is not twisted. 
10. Measure 2½" down from the top raw edge along each side of the webbing and mark with a pin, placing it horizontally across the webbing. This is where you will stop sewing and turn to go across and back down the webbing. 
    
11. Edgestitch each side of the handle in place, staying as close to the edge as you can. We also lengthened our stitch. Start at the bottom, stitch up one side, stop at the 2½" mark, pivot, stitch across, pivot, and stitch down the opposite edge to complete. This edgestitching will also finish the side seams of the inside pocket.
12. At each 2½" point, reinforce the strap with a 1½" "X Box."
    
13. Position the second webbing handle on the remaining plain panel, exactly matching the front, and repeat the steps to create the opposite side of the bag. 
    

Attach the bottom exterior panel

1. Find the 14" x 23" faux leather panel.
2. Place one completed exterior panel on either side of faux leather panel, right sides together, aligning the the 23" raw edges. Pin in place.
3. Using a ½" seam allowance stitch each seam. Finger press the seam allowance towards the faux leather. Do not press with an iron. Faux leather doesn't like the heat of an iron!
4. Flip the sewn panel over and run two lines of topstitching. One seam should be approximately ⅛" from the seam. Run a second seam ¼" from the first. 
   
5. Stay stitch both long sides of the assembled exterior ½" from the edge.
   NOTE: Stay stitching is a single line of stitching that simply helps stabilize the fabric to prevent stretching or distortion. In this project, it will also provide us with a seam line to follow later in the instructions.

Add the top zipper

1. Find the 22" zipper and the two 1¼" x 2" end tabs.
2. Place one tab on each end of the zipper. The strip and the zipper are right sides together and the raw ends are flush. Pin in place.
   NOTE: We based the width of these tabs on our zipper. Cut your tabs as needed to best fit your zipper; you want the tab to fit within the zipper tape.
3. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch the zipper tabs in place. You may need to "hand walk" the foot across the zipper to avoid breaking the needle. 
   
4. Press the zipper tabs away from the zipper on each end.
   
5. Lay the bag exterior right side up and flat on your work surface.
6. Place the zipper face down along the top on the side with the pocket, aligning the edge of the zipper tape with the raw edge of the strip. Pin in place along the top half of the zipper tape only. 
   
7. Using an adjustable zipper foot or a built-in feeding system (we used our MC8900 AcuFlex™ ED Zipper foot), stitch along the zipper teeth. Your seam should be as close as possible to the teeth. 
   
8. Fold the fabric down and away from the zipper teeth. Lightly press. Pin if needed.
9. Edgestitch in place, approximately ⅛" from the fold. 
   
10. Run a second seam ¼" from the first. 
    
11. Repeat to attach the remaining raw edge of the panel to the opposite side of the zipper. 
    NOTE: This second side will be a little more challenging because your bag is now a tube rather than flat. However, both ends are open, giving you the flexibility to maneuver your fabric under the needle. 

D-rings and tabs for side panels

1. Find the two 7" lengths of webbing, the two D-rings and the side panels with the pockets basted in place.
2. Slip each 7" strip through one of the D rings. Fold into place so one end extends 1½" below the other. Pin in place.   
3. Fold up that extra 1½" on each tab, enclosing the upper end's raw edge.
   
4. Find the two circular end units
5. Place one tab on each end unit, centering it above the pocket. The D-ring should be aligned with the curved top edge of the pocket as shown in the photo below. Stitch the tab in place with a 1¼" "X box" stitch. 
   

Set in the side panels

1. Find the bag "tube" and the two end panels. 
2. Clip the raw edges of the two open ends of the tube. Clip approximately every ¾", taking care to not cut through the stay stitching.
   
3. Place a pin at the exact center top, exact center bottom and top edge of each side pocket. Think of it like a clock, with pin points at 12:00, 3:00, 6:00 and 9:00.
4. On the main tube, the corresponding 12:00 point will be the center of the zipper. Keeping the zipper in the exact center, flatten the tube to find the opposite 6:00 point. Then, flatten the tube in the opposite direction to find the 3:00 and 9:00 points. Place marking pins at all these points. 
5. Place the side panel right sides together with circular opening of the barrel, aligning all the pin points. Easing the fabric, fill in the rest of the circle with pins. If you've done garment sewing, this is very similar to putting in a sleeve. You can also clip around each of the side panels (again staying well within the the seam allowance) to help with the easing.
6. Stitch the layers together, following the original line of stay stitching. 
   
7. Turn the completed bag right side out.

Create and insert the lining

1. Find the 23" x 36" lining panel and the two lining side circle panels. As you did with the exterior panel, stay stitch each 36" side of the lining. 
2. Clip to, but not through, the line of stay stitching every ¾" - again as you did with the exterior panel.
3. With low heat, press under ½" along the each 23" edge.
4. Following a similar method as you did for the exterior, pin the lining to the circles, leaving a ½" gap at what will be the top of the lining. When inserted into the bag, this gap will allow the lining to smoothly straddle the zipper.
5. Sew the side circles in place, following along in the original line of stay stitching. This will be a bit easier than stitching the exterior since you are working with the lining panel as a flat piece.
6. With the completed lining still wrong side out, insert it into the exterior bag. Pin the lining in place along each side of the zipper, covering the lines of stitching.
   
7. Topstitch the lining in place, following along in the existing stitch line closest to the zipper.
   
8. The photo below shows how that opening in the lining sits over the zipper. It looks a little messy when you see everything close-up like this, but it's all actually hidden inside the bag and results in a professional finish. We thought it was important for you to see why that little space is left open in the lining end seams.
   

Create the shoulder strap

1. Find the remaining 60" length of webbing, the slider and the two swivel clips.
2. Insert one raw end of the webbing through the center of the slider. Pull it through so it just clears the slider. Turn under the raw end approximately ½" and stitch in place as close to the slider as possible.
   
3. Place the slider end, with the webbing attached, wrong side up on your work surface. Thread the opposite raw end through one swivel clip, threading from the bottom and out the top.
   
4. Continue feeding the webbing through, pulling it across and over the portion laying flat, then threading it back through the slider.
   
5. Finally bring the opposite raw end through the remaining swivel clip, threading it from the top to the bottom. Pull it through as above, turn under the raw end, and stitch in place as close to the hook as possible 
   
6. Clip the strap in place on the D-ring tabs to complete. 

Decorative stitching against a neutral canvas gives this slouchy bucket bag a great hipster style. We used the beautiful stitches available on the Janome Memory Craft 9900, which go up to 9mm in width. For a subtle boho flair, we then incorporated long, soft tassels at the sides and front. Read on to learn our unique steps for making these custom tassels: much less than buying, and in an exact color match!

There are decorative stitch accents along the top of the bag and the top of the exterior pocket, but the main feature is how we use them on the wide cross-body strap.

We added four lines of mirror-imaged decorative stiches down the length of the strap plus an embellished flat cord, which is stitched in place with a wide zig zag - a modern spin on a traditional heirloom technique. 

Searching for innovative closures for our bag and tote designs is always fun. We've employed zippers, drawstrings, turn locks, and more. But, we hadn't yet used one of the best "cincher-upper" techniques: the belt! It does an amazing job holding up your pants, and works equally well as a functional, fashionable closure for this cute bag. 

Our pretty custom tassels hang luxiously from the bag's side and sprout directly from the ends of twisted cord belt. If you've ever shopped for tassels, you know they can be hard to find in the color you want, and even if you do luck out and locate one to your liking, the price may surprise you. A single, small tassel can run $5.00 and up. Designer Alicia Thommas came up with an innovative way to unwrap twisted cording then sculpt it into perfectly-matched tassels. 

This bag finishes at approximately 11" wide x 13½" high x 6" deep. The cross-body strap finishes at approximately 3" x 54½".

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome Memory Craft 9900)
• Satin Stitch foot for decorative stitching (optional)

Fabric and Other Supplies

• ¾ yard of 45-60" wide medium to heavy-weight cotton canvas or similar for the main bag exterior panels, the exterior pocket, the belt loops, and the strap; we used 60" 10oz Bull Denim in Natural from Jo-Ann Fabric
  NOTE: If you use a fabric that is less than 60" wide, you should get a full yard as you will need to piece the strap, which is cut at 58".
• ¼ yard of 45"+ wide medium to heavy-weight cotton canvas or similar for the base accent; we used 54" Baja Fret in Greystone an Outdoor Canvas by Robert Allen from Jo-Ann Fabric 
• 1 yard of 44"+ wide standard weight cotton for the bag's lining, the exterior pocket's lining, and the lining pocket; we used a coordinating print purchased locally but not available online
• 2½ yards of ⅜ - ½" twisted cord; we used a soft gray metallic twisted cord, purchased locally
  NOTE: This is a standard décor trim, but make sure you get the kind that is two twisted strands covered in a shiny rayon. Our unique tassel technique is created by pulling away the rayon covering to reveal the polyester core. It is a bit harder to source online, but is eadily available at sewing and craft stores, such as Jo-Ann (where we found ours), Michael's, etc. 
• TWO 1" D-rings; we used Dritz D-rings in Black, which is actually kind of a gunmetal tone
• ½ yard of 45" wide medium to heavyweight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon's Décor Bond
• All purpose thread to match fabrics
• Rayon thread for decorative stitch accents; we used sage green 
• Small round or flat cording for optional corded accent on the bag's strap; we used Madeira Carat 2mm flat trim in Black Coral stitched in place with gray metallic thread
• Stabilizer as recommended by your machine's manual for the decorative stitching (a standard tear-away or a lightweight fusible should work if you have no recommendations to follow) – you need a piece approximately 3" x 58". You can also butt together pieces to create this length.
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Seam gauge
• Seam ripper
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Iron and ironing board
• Straight pins
• Large-eye upholstery needle

Getting Started

1. Download and print out the Strap End Template.
   IMPORTANT: This template is ONE 8½" x 11" sheet. You must print the PDF file at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a guide rule on the page so you can confirm your final printout is to scale.
2. Cut out the template along the solid line. Set it aside.
3. From the fabric for the main bag exterior panels, the exterior pocket, the belt loops, and the strap, cut the following:
   FOUR 10" wide x 13½" high rectangles for the main panels
   ONE 11" wide x 8" high rectangle for the exterior pocket
   FOUR 2½" x 4" strips for the belt loops
   ONE 7½" x 58" strip for the cross-body strap
   NOTE: Remember, if your fabric is less than 60" wide, you'll need to cut two pieces and seam the together to get a 58" finished length.
4. From the fabric for the base accent, fussy cut TWO 19" wide x 6" high rectangles.
5. From the fabric for the bag's lining, the exterior pocket's lining, and the lining pocket, cut the following:
   TWO 19" x 16" rectangles for the lining
   ONE 11" wide x 8" high rectangle for the exterior pocket lining
   ONE 11" wide x 16" high rectangle for the lining pocket
6. From the interfacing, cut the following:
   TWO 10" x 7½" rectangles for the pockets
   TWO 18" x 5" rectangles for the base of the bag (optional). 
   NOTE: Interfacing the base accent panels provides a bit more stability but is not mandatory since the bag is designed to be slouchy.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Create the exterior pocket

1. Find the 11" x 8" exterior pocket panel, the 11" x 8 lining panel and one 10" x 7½" interfacing panel.
2. Place the interfacing on the wrong side of the exterior pocket panel. The interfacing should be flush with the bottom of the fabric panel and centered side to side. This leaves a ½" reveal of fabric along the top and both sides. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the exterior pocket panel. 
   
3. Place the fused exterior panel and the lining panel right sides together; the raw edges should be flush all around. Pin in place across the top and along both sides. 
4. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch across the top and along both sides, remembering to pivot at the corners. The bottom remains open. 
5. Trim the corners diagonally and turn the pocket right side out. Push out the corners so they are nice and sharp. A long, blunt end tool, like a knitting needle or chopstick, works well for this. Press flat. 
6. Using a fabric pen or pencil, measure ½" down from the top seamed edge and draw a horizontal line. This will be the decorative stitching guide line. 
   
   NOTE: We are working on the right side of the fabric with our marking throughout this project. Make sure your fabric pen or pencil will easily wash or wipe away or will vanish with exposure to the air. The FriXion Pen we used vanishes with heat. 
7. Set up your machine for decorative stitching. Thread it with your chosen rayon thread in the top (we used a pale sage green) and a quality bobbin thread in the bobbin. Select a simple decorative stitch. We chose a triangle (Statin Stitch 09 on our Janome MC9900). We adjusted the width to 6.0 and the length to 2.5. 
   NOTE: You can use our embellishment pattern or design your own. If you choose your own, measure and test your stitch width and length to insure you will get the result you want.
8. Following the drawn line on the pocket, stitch across the pocket. 
   
9. Set the finished pocket aside.

Create the belt loops

1. Find the four 2½" x 4" strips. 
2. Press back the ends of each strip ½". 
3. Re-thread the machine with thread to match the exterior fabric in the top and bobbin, and edgestitch all these folds in place.
4. Press down the sides of each strip ½". Do not stitch these sides, simply leave them pressed. 
   

Assemble the exterior panels and place the loops and pocket

1. Find the four 10" x 13½" upper panels. Split the four pieces into two pairs and place them right sides together. Pin each pair together along one 13½" edge. If you using any type of directional fabric, make sure you are pinning and stitching what will become the center edge. 
2. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch this center seam for each pair. Press the seam allowance together and to the right.
3. Flip over each seamed panel and topstitch ¼" to the right of the seam. 
   
4. Press each panel flat and place them both right side up on your work surface.
5. Collect the exterior pocket and the four belt loops.
6. Place the pocket right side up on one exterior panel. The pocket should be centered side to side (4½" in from each raw side edge of the exterior panel) and the raw bottom each edge of the pocket should be flush with the raw bottom edge of the exterior panel. Pin the pocket in place along both sides. 
7. Place two belt loops above the pocket. The outer ends of the loops should be in line with the side edges of the pocket. The top edges of the loops should be 3" down from the top raw edge of the exterior panel. This position will leave 1½" between the bottom edges of the loops and the top of the pocket. Pin the loops in place.
   NOTE: We drew in a horizontal line at 3" down from the top raw edge of the exterior panel to insure our loops would be perfectly parallel. 
   
8. Edgestitch the loops in place along the top and bottom (remember, these were the sides you just pressed in when forming the loops).
9. Edgestitch the pocket in place along both sides. 
10. Place the remaining two loops in the exact same position on the remaining exterior panel. 
11. Find the two 19" x 6" accent base panels. If you wish, fuse the interfacing pieces to the wrong side of each panel, center the interfacing side-to-side and top-to-bottom. 
12. Place a base panel right sides together with each exterior panel. Pin in place along the bottom edge of each exterior panel.
    
13. Using a ½" seam allowance stitch each base panel seam. Press the seam allowance together and down towards the base panel. 
14. Flip each panel to the right side and topstitch ¼" from the seam within the base panel.
    
15. Place the front and back exterior panels right sides together. Pin along both sides.
16. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch both sides. Press the seam allowance together and toward the back panel. 
17. Turn the exterior (which is now a tube) right side out. As you did above with the center seams and accent panel seams, topstitch ¼" from each side seam within the back panel.
18. Create 6" box corners, which means your cut box will be half that size or 3".
    
19. Stitch across the bottom, using a ½" seam allowance, and finish boxing the corners. 
20. If you are new to this technique, check out our tutorial: How To Box Corners.
21. Turn the main bag right side out, push out the corners and press.
    

Create the embellished strap

1. Find the 7½" x 58" strip.
   NOTE: If you used a narrower-width fabric that required piecing, make sure your finished strip is 7½" x 58".
2. Place the strip right side up and flat on your work surface. 
3. Find the Strap End Template. 
4. Center the template on one end. You want at least ½" of fabric showing along the top and sides of the template. 
   
5. Using a fabric pen or pencil, trace around the template at both ends of the strap. And, using the template as a guide, draw in the center line. In the photo below, we slid down the template to show our tracing lines. 
   
6. Grab your longest clear ruler and fabric pen to draw in the final guidelines. 
7. Continue the solid outer lines from top to bottom; these are the strap cut lines. 
8. Continue the center line from top to bottom as a dashed line. 
9. On the right half of the strap, at both the top and bottom ends, draw in the ¼" seam lines – also as dashed lines, just like they're shown on the template. 
10. Finally, draw in all the embellishment guide lines as solid lines. Starting from the center dashed line, measure ¼" to the right and draw a vertical line the length of the strap. This is embellishment line #6. 
11. From this first line, measure ½" to the right and draw an another vertical line parallel with the first. This is embellishment line #5. 
12. Repeat to draw and additional FOUR parallel vertical lines with the same ½" spacing. These are embellishment lines #4, #3, #2 and #1. 
    
13. Embellishment line #1 should end up ¼" from the opposite dashed seam line. 
    
14. With all your embellishment guidelines in place, set up your machine for decorative stitching as you did above for the pocket stitching.
15. Re-thread the machine with your chosen rayon thread in the top (we used a pale sage green) and a quality bobbin thread. Select the same simple decorative stitch used on the pocket. We chose a triangle (Statin Stitch 09 on our Janome MC9900). We adjusted the width to 6.0 and the length to 2.5. 
    NOTE: As mentioned above, our steps and guideline measurements are based on our embellishment pattern. If you choose your own, re-measure and test your stitches on a scrap of fabric to confirm the spacing as well as the stitch length and width are to your liking. 
16. Layer stabilizer under the fabric strip.
17. We started with embellishment line #3, orienting the stitch so the point of the triangle is aiming toward the center of the strap. Following the drawn line, stitch from top to bottom. 
18. Begin and end all your stitching beyond the drawn lines of the Strap End Template.
    
19. Next, stitch embellishment line #6, which has the triangles pointing in the same direction as line #3. Following the drawn line, stitch from top to bottom.
20. If possible, use the Mirror Image function on your machine to flip the direction of the triangles. Stitch embellishment lines #4 and #1 with this new orientation. 
    
    NOTE: The Mirror Image function is a standard decorative stitching feature on many of the Janome models and we LOVE it! It allows you to create some very intricate patterns. If you do not have this function, you can flip the entire strap and stitch in the opposite direction. 
21. For the final two embellishment lines, we stitched flat cording in place with a wide zig zag.
22. Cut two 58" lengths of decorative cord. 
23. Re-thread the machine to coordinate with the cord. We used a metallic silver in the top and quality bobbin thread in the bobbin. We set our zig zig at a width of 6.0 and a length of 2.5. Test on a scrap to insure your width and length with work with your chosen cord. The swing of the zig zig should hit just outside the cord. 
24. We started on embellishment line #5.
    
25. You don't need to pin the cording in place; you can simply hold it with your finger, centering it over the drawn line. Just go slowly and stop (with the needle in the down position) to re-adjust as necessary. Stitch down the cording from top to bottom.
26. Repeat to stitch cording in place down the length of embellishment line #2.
27. Here's a look at our finished embellishment. We folded the fabric so you could see both ends. 
    
28. Remove the stabilizer if you'd like; we left ours in place as it will be hidden between the layers and offers a bit of extra stability to the fabric. However, if you use a heavy fabric, such as the canvas we chose, it is not necessary.
29. Trim both ends of the strap along the drawn cut lines (the solid lines, not the dashed lines. Don't trim down the sides.
    
30. Fold the strap in half along the center dashed fold line, right sides together, sandwiching the stitching between the layers. 
31. Using your long clear ruler and fabric pen, draw a final guideline. This will be your stitching line. 
32. Measure ¼" to the right of the last line of decorative stitching. The line should run from top to bottom.
    
33. Re-thread the machine with thread to match the fabric in the top and bobbin. 
34. Using a ¼" seam allowance, stitch along the angled ends. Pivot and stitch down the long side, following your guideline. Pivot at the angles of the ends, stitching with the same ¼" seam allowance across this end. Leave a 2-3" opening along the long side seam for turning. 
    NOTE: With such a long and narrow tube, it is easier to turn if your leave TWO OPENINGS: one near each end. This gives you better access to get in and push out all the corners completely.
35. Trim back the angled ends, then trim the side seam allowance to approximately ¼".
    
36. Turn the strap right side out through the opening(s). Push out the corners so they are nice and sharp. Press in the raw edges at the opening(s) so they are flush with the sewn seam. Press the entire strap flat.
    
37. Hand stitch the opening(s) closed.
    

Make the lining

1. Find the 11" x 16" lining pocket panel and the 10" x 7½" piece of interfacing. 
2. Fold the pocket panel in half, wrong sides together, so it is now 11" x 8". Press to set a center crease. 
3. Open out the panel, wrong side up, so the crease line is visible.
4. Center the interfacing on one half of the pocket panel. It should be positioned so one edge is aligned with the center crease. There should then be ½" of fabric showing on the remaining three sides. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse in place.
   
5. Fold the pocket in half, right sides together, matching all the raw edges. Pin in place along both sides and across the bottom.
6. Using a ½" seam allowance, sew both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners and leaving a 3” opening along the bottom for turning. Remember to lock the seam on either side of the opening. Clip the corners. 
   
7. Turn the pocket right side out through the bottom opening. Push out the corners so they are nice and sharp. Fold in the raw edges at the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam. Press the pocket flat.
8. Find one of the two lining panels. Place it right side up on your work surface. Position the pocket on the lining piece. It should sit 4" up from the bottom raw edge of the lining panel and be centered side to side.  
9. Pin the pocket in place along both sides and across the bottom.
   
10. Edgestitch the pocket in place along both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners. This closes the opening in the pocket used for turning right side out. 
11. Place the two lining panels right sides together, sandwiching the pocket between the layers. Pin along both sides and across the bottom.
12. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners.
13. As you did for the exterior bag, create 6" box corners, which means your corner box will be half that size or 3".
    
14. As mentioned above, if you are new to this technique, check out our tutorial: How To Box Corners.
15. Leave the lining wrong side out.

Assemble the exterior and the lining

1. Find the exterior bag. It should still be right side out. Fold down the top raw edge ½" all around and press.
   
2. Find the lining; it should still be wrong side out.
3. Slip the lining inside the exterior so the two bags are now wrong sides together. The lining pocket should be against the back panel (the non-pocket panel) of the exterior.
4. Slip the raw edge of the lining under the folded top edge of the exterior.
   
5. Fold the top edge back down, then fold down an additional ½" and pin in place all around. 
   
6. Re-thread the machine with the decorative stitching thread (sage green in our sample) in the top and thread to match the exterior fabric in the bobbin. 
7. Set up the machine as above for the triangle satin stitch (or the stitch you have chosen and used above).
8. Turn the bag inside out so you can more easily stitch from the exterior side.
9. Starting at a side seam, run the decorative stitch all around the top of of the bag, securing the top hem in place and adding the final bit of thread embellishment. The distance from the top of the bag may vary slightly depending on which stitch you choose. The flat side of our triangle stitch was ½" down from the top folded edge. 
   

Tassels

1. Find the twisted cord. Cut two 10" lengths. 
   
2. Untwist one length. You now have two individual lengths wrapped with the silky rayon thread. 
   
3. Working with one length at a time, pinch the cord in the center and fold it in half. Hold on to the center of the cord with one hand, and with the other hand, begin unwrapping the thread to reveal the soft polyester strands at the core. The thread pulls away from the core quite easily.
   
4. Work from both ends up towards the center. Leave about 1" at the center still wrapped. 
   
5. Repeat to unwrap the other length in this first pair. 
6. Find one of the 1" D-rings. 

One of the best things about the holidays is the chance to get together with family and friends around a beautiful table filled with traditional dishes. Maybe you'll be passing around Nana's famous baked ham, Aunt Sheila's warm apple-cranberry crisp, or your own delicious cornbread stuffing. If your culinary talents are on-the-go from gathering to gathering this season, you need a carrier that can keep your special dish toasty on the way there. Our wrap-it-up design includes a handy loop to clip a pot holder and an inside pocket for a serving utensil. This would make a wonderful present for the foodies on your gift list. Make the pretty carrier and matching mitt, then wrap up a new baking pan you've filled with yummy homemade treats! 

Our carrier is made for a standard 9" x 13" covered baking pan. You'll want to measure your particular casserole dish and adjust the four "fabric wings" to fit. We noticed many newer dishes have large molded handles. This would definitely be something you'd need to account for, especially for the short bottom and long top wings.

We give you the basic sizing and all the steps; all you need to do is adjust to best fit your pan(s). As we often suggest, lay things out on paper first and/or make a prototype in muslin or another inexpensive fabric from your scrap bin. Sometimes, we even make mini-samples out of paper towels to ensure our dimensions are correct.

We originally used two fabrics (one print and one solid) from the Simple Marks collection by Malka Dudrawsky for Moda Fabrics. This is an older collection and can be hard to find. As an alternative, we found two options at Hawthorne Threads. The first includes a print from the Handcrafted collection by Alison Glass for Andover Fabrics paired with a FreeSpirit Designer Solid.

A second option has a festive holiday feel, but not so specific that it couldn't be used anytime of the year. Both prints are from the Dowry collection by Anna Maria Horner for FreeSpirit Fabrics. 

To make a matching hotpad as we show in our sample photos, try our Quilted Oven Mitt or Appliquéd Oven Mitt. Both include a downloadable pattern. 

Sewing Tools You Need

• Sewing Machine and standard presser foot
• Quarter Inch Seam foot, optional for pocket topstitching
• The Janome Skyline S7, which we recommend above, has the built-in AcuFeed™ Flex Fabric Feeding System; if you do not have this feature, a Walking or Even Feed foot is recommended for the thicker layers and quilting

Fabric and Other Supplies

• 1¼ yards of 44"+ wide quilting weight cotton fabric (we recommend a print) for the carrier's exterior and pocket
• 1¼ yards of 44"+ wide quilting weight cotton fabric (we recommend a solid) for the carrier's interior, binding, and carabiner loop
• 1¼ yards of 45" wide thermal batting: we used Insul-Bright by The Warm Company
• ¼ yard of 20"+ wide mid-weight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon Décor Bond
• ½ yard of ⅝" sew-in Velcro®; we used black
• 2 yards of 1" wide poly or cotton webbing: we used 1" cotton webbing in a natural color
  NOTE: Cotton webbing is lovely and soft but can be hard to butt together and stitch because of its tendency to fray; polyester webbing is harder to stitch through, but there is no fraying.
• ONE 2" carabiner (optional, to hook oven mitt or hot pad in place)
• All purpose thread to match fabrics (both front and back) as well as thread to match the webbing for the handle
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Iron and ironing board
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Tape measure
• Seam gauge 
• Seam ripper
• Straight pins
• Painter's tape for cutting and stitching guides (optional)

Getting Started

1. From the fabric for the exterior and pocket, cut the following:
   ONE 29" high x 35" wide rectangle 
   ONE 8" high x 6" wide rectangle for the pocket
2. From the fabric for the interior, binding and loop, cut the following:
   ONE 29" high x 35" wide rectangle 
   ONE 11" x 3" strip for the binding
   ONE 4" x 1¼" strip for the loop
3. From the insulated fleece, cut ONE 29" x 35" rectangle.
4. From the medium-weight fusible interfacing, cut the following:
   ONE 7" x 2½" strip
   ONE 10" x 2" strip
5. Pull the Velcro® apart and cut as follows:
   TWO 3" lengths of the loop side (the soft side)
   FOUR 3" lengths of the hook side (the rough side)
   ONE 9½" length of the loop side (the soft side)
6. Cut the webbing into ONE 64" length.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Cutting the corner notches

1. Place the interior rectangle right side down and flat on your work surface.
2. Place the exterior rectangle right side down on top of the interior piece. Align all four raw edges of both layers.
3. Fold both pieces in half lengthwise so they now measure 35" x 14½" and the interior piece now faces right side up. Make sure your layers are still even and laying together nice and flat.
   
4. Mark the first corner cut. It should measure 9" up from the bottom raw edge and 7" in from the side raw edge. Make sure your measurements come together at a perfect right angle (a 90˚angle). You can draw your lines with a fabric pen or pencil, or mark with painter's tape as a cutting guide as we did.
   
5. Cut out the corner notch through all the layers, keeping your cut lines clean and smooth. We used a rotary cutter. 
   
6. Flip the fabric to cut the opposite corner notch. This notch should also measure 9" from the bottom edge, but should be 13" in from the side edge. Again, make sure you have an accurate 90˚ angle. 
   
7. When unfolded and laid flat, you should have a cross with two corners that are 9" x 7" and two corners that are 9" x 13".
   
8. Repeat to cut matching corner notches from the 29" x 35" rectangle of insulated fleece.

Layering and quilting the main front and back pieces

1. Place the thermal batting right side down (shiny side down) on your work surface.
2. Place the exterior fabric right side up on top of it.
3. Place the interior fabric right side down on top of everything. 
4. You now have a three layer quilt sandwich. 
   
5. Pin in place all around the "cross," leaving the longest 11" end open for turning (the 11" end of the 11" x 13" arm of the cross).
6. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch all around, pivoting at each corner, and locking your seam at the beginning and end. Remember, that one 11" end is completely un-sewn.
7. Trim back the seam allowance to approximately ¼" and cut in diagonally at each corner. If you are new to this technique, check out our tutorial on sewing and cutting corners.
   
8. Turn the piece right side out through the open end and press well.
9. Starting at one 15" end of the cross, mark quilting lines at one inch intervals across the entire piece. You can draw in the lines with a fabric pen or pencil (make sure it is one that will wipe away or vanish with exposure to air as you are working on the right side of the fabric). You could also use painter's tape as guide lines (the favorite method of our seamstress, Aimee for this project). Or, if you have a Walking foot with a Quilt Bar, you could use that to maintain an even distance. 
   
10. For more tips and techniques on straight line quilting, you might want to read our tutorial from our friend, and extraordinary quilter, Heather Jones.
11. You want the quilting lines to blend in to the fabric, so be sure to thread your machine with thread to match the exterior fabric in the top and the interior fabric in the bobbin. We had coordinating fabrics and so used turquoise thread in both the top and bobbin. 
12. Lengthen the stitch and sew along each drawn guideline. 
13. Set your pretty quilted body aside. 
    

Pocket

1. Find the 8" x 6" pocket piece and the 2½" x 7" interfacing strip.
2. Fold the 8" x 6" piece in half right sides together so it is now 8" x 3". 
3. Unfold wrong side up so the crease line is visible. Place the interfacing along the crease line and centered end to end. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse in place. 
4. Refold the pocket right sides together. Pin along both 3" ends and the 8" raw edge, leaving an approximate 2"-3" opening along this 8" side for turning.
5. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch along both 3" ends and the 8" side, pivoting at the corners. Remember to lock your seam at either side of the approximate 2"-3" opening. Clip the corners. Press the seam.
6. Turn the pocket right side out through the opening. Push out the corners so they are nice and sharp. A chopstick or long knitting needle works well for this.
7. Fold in the raw edges of the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam. Press flat.
8. Place the quilted carrier body right side up on your work surface with the long end of the cross to the left, the short end of the cross to the right, and the upper and lower wings in the middle. The pocket should be placed on the upper wing of the cross with the open end of the pocket facing towards the long end. The bottom of the pocket should be 2" in from the right edge, and the outer edge of the pocket should be 2¼" down from the top edge of the wing.
9. Pin the pocket in place along both its sides and across the bottom.
10. Edgestitch the pocket in place along both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners and with a generous backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam, ie. at the pocket top. This is a stress point for the pocket and it's smart to secure the seam well. We used our Janome Quarter Inch foot to keep a precise seam. 
    .

Binding and loop

1. Find the 11" x 3" binding strip and the 10" x 2" interfacing strip. Center the interfacing side to side and top to bottom on the wrong side of the binding strip. You should have ½" of fabric showing all around. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing in place.
2. Fold the strip in half lengthwise and press lightly to set a long center crease. Unfold, wrong side up. 
3. Fold back each 3" end ½" and press well. Fold back each long side (now 10" in length) ½" and press well. 
4. Flip over so the folded piece is now right side up and the center crease line is visible. All the edges are still folded back.
5. Find the 9½" length of Velcro® loop. Center it within one half of the flat binding strip between the center crease line and one outside folded edge. It should also be centered end to end. 
6. Pin the Velcro® strip in place. You can also use a fusible seam tape or a spray adhesive to lightly hold the strip in place.
7. Thread your machine with thread to match the Velcro® in the top and thread to match the interior fabric in the bobbin. We had black in the top and turquoise in the bobbin. 
8. Edgestitch the Velcro® in place along all four sides. 
9. Re-fold the binding strip wrong sides together so all the folded edges align. Slip the binding over the raw edges of the open end of the carrier (the end you used for turning right side out). The side with the Velcro® should be on the inside. Pin in place. 
   
10. Rethread your machine with thread to match the binding fabric in the top and bobbin.
11. Find the 4" x 1¼" loop piece.
12. Fold the loop in half wrong sides together so it is now 4" x ⅝" and press. 
13. Open it back up, wrong side up, so the center crease is visible. Fold in each long side to meet in the middle along the center crease. Press. Fold in half along the original crease line so the folded edges align and press again. Pin in place.
14. Edgestitch along the folded edges to secure. Both ends are raw. 
15. Fold this thin loop in half, aligning the raw edges. 
16. Slip the raw ends under the binding on the exterior of the carrier. The loop should be in the exact center of the binding. Pin in place.
17. Edgestitch across both ends of the binding and all along its bottom edge. Go slowly and make sure you are catching both sides of the binding with your stitching. This seam also secures the loop.
    

Position the Velcro®

1. Find the 3" lengths of Velcro®. You should have two loop lengths and four hook lengths. 
2. Place the carrier body right side up and flat on your work surface. It should be the same direction as it was when you placed the pocket, with the long end to the left, the short end to the right and the "wings" top and bottom in the middle. 
3. Find the four lengths of hook (the rough side).
4. Position one in each corner of the bottom middle wing, and one in each corner of the short end. The strip should be positioned perpendicular to the quilting lines on the middle wing and parallel to the stitching on the end. Position the strip 1¼" in from the side and ½" up from the bottom. 
   
5. Re-thread your machine with thread to match the Velcro® in the top and thread to match the fabric in the bobbin. 
6. Pin or fuse each piece of Velcro® in place, then edgestitch around all four sides. 
7. Flip over the carrier to place the last two lengths of Velcro®. They go on the inside of the wing opposite the wing to which you just attached the hook lengths. 
8. As above, the strips run perpendicular to the quilting stitching and are 1¼" from the side and ½" up from the bottom. Edgestitch in place as above. 
   NOTE: This can be a bit of a brain teaser because your are working in 3-D. Take a look at the wrapping photo series above in the introduction, which should help clarify the Velcro® positioning. 
   

The webbing handle

1. Find the 64" length of webbing. Make a loop, butting the raw ends together. Make sure there are no twists and turns in your loop.
2. Using a very tight zig zag stitch, attach the ends. We stitched across the joint three times. 
   
3. Place the finished carrier right side up on your work surface. 
4. Fold the handle so the seam is at one end. Place a pin at the opposite folded end. 
5. Unfold and center the handle across the middle of the carrier. It should be positioned so the zig zag seam and the opposite center pin point (the point you marked above when you folded the handle) are both aligned with the center quilting line. The outer edge of the webbing should be 3" in from the edge of the carrier. Pin the loop in place from the center point outwards, stopping 1" beyond each corner. This end point should align with a line of quilting. 
   
6. Here is a close up view of the positioning of one corner.
   
7. Re-thread your machine with thread to match the webbing in the top and thread to match the interior fabric in the bobbin. 
8. Edgestitch each side of the handle in place, starting and stopping at the one-inch-beyond pin points. Add a box stitch at the beginning and end to reinforce. In the illustration below, we've shown the handle stitching in black so you can see the pattern.
   

Today's casual bag features two generous pleated pockets bound with Fold Over Elastic by Dritz (FOE). One of the things we love about FOE is the ability to use it as a binding. You get three benefits in one: color, stretch and finish. There's a built-in crease line down the center that allows easy and accurate folding. The pockets not only look great, they're also super functional – with expandable tops that make dropping in items easy, even one-handed. In addition, the entire top of the bag is also finished with FOE, using it as a flat binding. Plus, the pretty patterns on the Drtiz FOE are woven in, not printed on, and they're fade resistant and colorfast. These good looks will last!

If you haven't experimented recently with elastics, you might still lump them into the "stiff and scratchy" category. Not the Dritz® Fashion Elastic. This stuff is soft and stretchy, yet substantial enough to add stability. Most solids are ⅝" (folding over to 5/16") x 1 yard and the patterns range from ½  (folding over to ¼") to 1" (folding over to ½") x 1 yard. Both are fully machine washable and dryable. We found a great selection of all the new patterns (from graphics to tie-dye to sports themes and more) at Jo-Ann Stores.

The bag finishes at approximately 15" tall x 12" wide with 2" sides and base.

We originally used two fabrics from the Organic Forest collection by Amy Butler. This great collection sold out quickly last Fall and can be hard to find. We were able to find our pretty picks still available at online retailer, Quilt Home, and list those links below. But because of the scarcity, we also selected a pretty new pair from the Cocoon collection by Valori Wells. Both fabrics as well as coordinating fold-over elastic (we like Animal Skin Blrown/Tan for this new combo) are available at Fabric.com.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any sewing machine (we recommend the Janome 4120QDC)

Fabric and Other Supplies

• ONE package of Dritz® Fold-Over Elastic
• ¾ yard of 44-45" wide cotton fabric for the large exterior panels front and back, the large exterior pocket and the front of the strap and tab; we used Dew in Plum from the Organic Forest collection by Amy Butler for Rowan Fabrics 
• 1 yard of 44-45" wide cotton fabric for the small exterior panels front and back, the small exterior pocket, the back of the strap and tab, and the lining and lining pocket; we used Fiddleheads in Amber from the Organic Forest collection by Amy Butler for Rowan Fabrics 
• TWO 1½" Dritz D-rings
• ¾ yard of 45" wide medium-weight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon 809 Décor Bond®
• All-purpose thread to match fabric and elastic
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Iron and ironing board
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Seam gauge
• Seam ripper
• Straight pins

Getting Started 

1. From the Fold-Over Elastic, cut the following:
   ONE 8" length 
   ONE 6" length
   Leave the remaining length intact; you'll trim it later to exactly match the top opening of your bag
2. From the fabric for the large exterior panels front and back, the large exterior pocket and the front of the strap and tab, cut the following:
   TWO 16½" high x 8" wide rectangles for the exterior panels
   ONE 16" high x 11" wide rectangle for the large exterior pocket
   ONE 2" x WOF (width of fabric - 44" in our sample) strip for the front of the strap
   ONE 2" x 9" strip for the front of the strap tab
3. From the fabric or the small exterior panels front and back, the small exterior pocket, the back of the strap and tab, and the lining and lining pocket, cut the following:
   TWO 16½" high x 6" wide rectangles for the exterior panels
   ONE 11" high x 8" wide rectangle for the small exterior pocket
   TWO 16½" high x 13" wide rectangles for the lining
   ONE 15" high x 8" wide rectangle for the lining pocket
   ONE 2" x WOF strip for the back of the strap
   ONE 2" x 9" strip for the back of the strap tab
4. From the interfacing, cut the following:
   TWO 16" x 12" rectangles
   ONE 7" x 7" square
   ONE 1½" x 43" strip
   ONE 1½" x 8" strip

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Lining

1. Find the 15" x 8" lining pocket and the 7" x 7" interfacing square.
2. Fold the pocket in half, wrong sides together, so it is 7½" x 8", and press to set a crease.
3. Unfold wrong side up so the crease line is visible. Center the interfacing square on the bottom half so one edge is aligning along the center crease with ½" of fabric showing all around. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse in place.
   
4. Fold the interfaced panel in half, right sides together, along the original crease line. Pin along both sides and across the bottom, leaving an approximate 3" opening along the bottom for turning.
5. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch around all sides, pivoting at the corners. Your seam should run right along the edge of the interfacing. Remember to lock your seam on either side of the 3" opening. 
   
6. Clip the corners and press open the seam allowance. Turn right side out. Push out the corners so they are nice and sharp. A chopstick or long knitting needle works well for this.
7. Fold in the raw edges of the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam. Press well. 
8. Find the two 16½" x 13" lining panels.
9. Place one panel right side up and flat on your work surface. Measure to find the exact center of the panel. 
10. Pin the pocket in place on the right side of the lining panel. Remember, the folded edge is the pocket top. The pocket should be centered side to side and the bottom edge of the pocket should be 6" up from the bottom raw edge of the fabric panel. Pin in place.
    
11. Edgestitch the pocket in place along both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners and with a generous backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam, ie. at the pocket top. This is a stress point for the pocket and it's smart to secure the seam well. This edgestitching closes the opening used for turning.
    
12. Place the two lining pieces right sides together, sandwiching the pocket between the layers. Pin in place along both sides and across the bottom.
13. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch along both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners.
14. Our bag is designed to have 2" sides and base. To create this width, we figured our corners at 1". 
15. Measure and mark each corner. Cut out the 1" corner squares along your drawn lines.
16. Press open all the seams. 
17. Flatten the corner.
18. Double stitch the corner
    
19. Repeat to create the opposite boxed corner. Set the lining aside.
    NOTE: If you are new to boxed corners, check out our tutorial for step-by-step instructions.

Front Pockets

1. Find the two exterior pocket pieces: the 16" x 11" large pocket and the 11" x 8" small pocket. 
2. Fold each in half, wrong sides together so they are now 8" x 11" and 5½" x 8". Press well. The folded edge will be thebottom of each pocket.
   
3. Find the 8" and 6" lengths of Dritz® Fold-Over Elastic (FOE). The 8" is for the large pocket, the 6" is for the small pocket.
   
4. There is a center line woven into the design of the FOE. This line will help you fold the elastic exactly in half so you can use it as a binding for the top of the pocket. 
5. Fold the FOE in half, and slip it over the raw edges of the pocket at the end of one side, pin in place. Repeat, to pin the opposite end of the FOE over the opposite edge of the pocket. The Dritz® Fold-Over Elastic is very soft and easy to work with; it's even a little grippy. Over the short distance of our pockets, we didn't need to use any additional pins in between the two at the ends, but feel free to add a few more for your own comfort level.
   
6. Starting at one end, slip the pocket under the presser foot and drop the needle to help hold the layers in place. Gently stretch the elastic, pulling it until the stretched length of the elastic allows the fabric to lay flat. Check again to make sure the elastic is correctly folded over the top raw edges of the pocket. Begin stitching, stretching as you go. You'll need to stop every so often, always with the needle in the down position so things don't shift, and re-stretch. Stitch in this manner across the top of each pocket. Each pocket will now be softly gathered across its top edge.
   
7. Set the pockets aside.

Fuse the exterior panels 

1. Find the two 16½" x 8" exterior panels and the two 16" x 12" interfacing panels.
2. Place a fabric panel right side down on your ironing board. Place an interfacing panel on the fabric (fusing side down). Align the top edge of the fabric with the interfacing, but shift the interfacing so there is ½" of fabric showing along the bottom and the outer side. There will be a large portion of the interfacing extending beyond the fabric on the opposite side.
   
3. Following manufacturer's directions, fuse the interfacing to the fabric. Be careful with your iron so you are only fusing onto the fabric.
4. Flip over and press the fabric panel from the right side to make sure you have good adhesion. 
   
5. Repeat with the remaining exterior panel and the remaining interfacing panel. 

Attach the front pockets and complete the front and back

1. Find the large pocket and the front fused panel. Place the panel right side up. 
2. Place the pocket on the panel. The sides of the pocket should be flush with the sides of the fabric panel, and the bottom of the pocket should be 1¾" up from the bottom raw edge of the fabric panel. 
3. To take up the excess fabric at the bottom of the pocket, create an approximate 2½" pleat at the bottom center of the pocket. To do this, simply find the center of the pocket, measure 1¼" to the left and to the right of center and mark both points with a pin. Tuck under the pocket's excess fabric at both of these marked points until the bottom of the pocket lays flat against the fabric panel. Pin in place. Adjust as needed to make sure your pleat is centered.
   
4. Edgestitch the pocket in place, along both sides and across the bottom. Remember to pivot at the corners. The bottom stitching line will be visible, so be careful to keep your seam nice and straight. You may want to lengthen your stitch.
5. Find one of the 16½" x 6" exterior panels and the remaining pocket (the small pocket). Attach the pocket to the panel, following the same steps as above. The only difference is the pleat on this pocket will be only 2" rather than 2½".
   
6. Find both front sections with the pockets stitched in place.
   
7. Place the narrow panel over the wide panel, sandwiching the pockets in between the layers and aligning the inside raw edges. That extra interfacing is still extending to the right. Pin in place through all the layers.
   
8. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch the center seam through all the layers (including the interfacing). Backstitch sligthly when you stitch over the pocket tops, giving this stress point some extra strength. 
   
9. Fold out the narrow panel over the interfacing and smooth flat. Iron to fuse the the fabric to the interfacing (following manufacturer's instructions).
   NOTE: Why did we choose this unusual fusing method? It allows our vertical seam to lay very flat without a bulky multi-layer seam allowance. This is a much better look when you have a seam that will be prominent on the face of a bag.
10. Find the remaining narrow panel. Following the same steps, stitch the center seams, then fold out and fuse.
    

Make and place the strap and strap tab

1. Find both the strap and strap tab fabric strips and the corresponding interfacing strips. 
2. Place both sets of the fabric strips right sides together. Pin along one long side.
3. Using a ¼" seam allowance, stitch along the one long side.
4. Press open, pressing the seam allowance together and to one side. 
   
5. Slip the interfacing up against the seam, centering it side to side and making sure there is an even ¼" of fabric showing along the long raw edge. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing in place.
   
6. Press back the long raw edge of the side to which you adhered the interfacing ¼". You are pressing it over the interfacing. Press back both short ends (all the way across both pieces).
   
7. Fold the strap right sides together again along the seam line, aligning the folded edges on the ends. Press.
8. Fold in the remaining long raw edge of the opposite fabric so it aligns perfectly with the already folded edge. Press again and pin in place. You should now have a 1½" strap tab with finished folded edges on all sides.
9. Edgestitch around all four sides, pivoting at the corners.
   
10. These steps are exactly the same for both the strap and the strap tab.
11. Find the two D-rings. Slip one end of the strap tab through both rings and fold it back on itself 1". Stitch across to secure.
    
    NOTE: Remember, in our design, the front of the strap is the fabric that matches the wide exterior panel. The back of the strap is the fabric that matches the narrow exterior panel and the lining. Keep track of this so you fold back the strap tab with the correct side facing out. 
12. Find the two finished exterior panels.
    
13. On the front panel (the panel with the pockets) pin the strap tab within the narrow panel. It should be placed 1" in from side raw edge and the bottom end of the strap tab should be 4" down from the top raw edge. Pin in place.
    
14. Place one end of the long strap on the back panel in exactly the same position: within the narrow panel, 1" in from the side, and 4" down from the top.
    
15. Stitch both ends in place with a 2" "X-Box."
    NOTE: If you are new to this technique, check out our tutorial: How To Sew A Perfect "X" Box.
    

Final assembly

1. Place the front and back exterior panels right sides together, aligning the sides and bottom. Pin in place. Pull the straps up through the top opening to keep them out of the way of the seam. 
2. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch along both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners. 
   
3. Following the same steps as above for the lining, create 2" box corners.
   
4. Turn the bag right side out. Find the lining, it would still be wrong side out. 
5. Slip the lining inside the exterior bag so the two bags are now wrong sides together. Align all the seams and the bottom corners. Make sure the strap and strap tab are folded down out of the way of the top seam.
6. Pin around the entire top of the bag.
   
7. Find the remaining length of Dritz® Fold-Over Elastic. You will use this to bind the top, similarly as you did for the pockets but without the stretch. 
8. We found it was a bit easier to stitch the elastic in place working with the bag inside out. So with the top still pinned, turn the whole shootin' match wrong side out. 
9. Starting at the point right above where the long strap is stitched in place, wrap the FOE over the raw edges of the bag/lining. Just as you did with the pocket, use the center line that is woven into the FOE as your center guide line. Wrap and pin around the entire top of the bag. When you come back around to your starting point (behind the strap) leave the tail long.
10. As with the pockets, if you are a more experienced sewer, you may find you don't really need a lot of pins. The elastic in soft and grippy; it's easy to simply wrap as you go. 
11. Stitch all the way around the top, keeping your seam close to the bottom edge of the elastic binding. Go slowly and carefully, making sure you are catching both the front and back of the binding. Stop and lock your seam just before you stitch over your starting point. 
    
12. Remove the bag from the machine and carefully trim back the excess elastic so the two ends butt together.
13. Make one final tiny zag zag seam vertically across where the ends butt together to secure and prevent any raveling. If you started in the right place as described above, this seam will be hidden behind the strap.
    
14. Slip the free end of the long strap through the top of the D-Rings and adjust for your best fit.  

Yesterday was the first day of Standard Time across most of North America. We got an extra hour of sleep, but in exchange for this bonus snooze time, we are now faced with several months of ever-encroaching darkness. It's the perfect time for a bag with built-in reflective capabilities, which kicks off our new "Did it with Dritz" week. This high-visibility mini-tote is great for kids who are often headed to school and back home in the dark. See how we used four different nifty notions from Dritz.

This cute little bag is made from easy-to-sew, pre-quilted material; no need for a lining or any extra batting or interfacing. We added Dritz Fold-Over Elastic to bind all the raw edges, and fashioned our cool clasp from a key fob and snap (see how easy it is below). Two widths of Dritz Fusible Reflective Ribbon make sure the wearer stands out in street lights and headlights.

Although designed with kids in mind, there's no reason it couldn't be used for adults as well. The cross body strap might need to be lengthened, but otherwise, it would be a great mini tote for anyone.

A big thanks to our friends at Dritz for sponsoring the entire week. Have you been over to see the new Dritz website? They've streamlined it, updated it, and completely revamped how you find their products. Dritz has so many different notions – literally thousands of them – you could fill a good size store with just their products. But on the new site, they've done a great job of figuring out how customers like to find things. And that's visually.

Let's say you want to look at all your different options in fabric pens. Once you've chosen your major category ("Sewing" in this case), you quickly see the Marking section you're looking for. In about three clicks you're looking at a dozen kinds of fabric markers, with the choice to click on each for more details. We've visited many, many notions sites with only a fraction of the selection of products, and the new Dritz.com really is much easier to navigate.

Of course, once you've found what you want, you need to know where to get it. They have a complete store locator, showing where you can buy their products from local stores, national chains, and online retailers.

Our bag finishes at approximately 10" high x 8" wide with a 2" base and sides and 33" cross-body strap.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome Skyline S5)
• Quarter Inch Seam foot (optional)
• Overedge foot (optional)

Fabric and Other Supplies

• ½ yard of 44"+ wide double-sided, pre-quilted nylon fabric or similar; we used a pre-quilted double-faced fabric in rip stop nylon, purchased locally
  NOTE: We recommend the double-face quilting fabric because it eliminates the need for a lining, and we chose the nylon option for its water-resistant benefit. However, other tough, medium weight fabrics could also work, such as canvas or heavy twill. 
• ONE package (you need 1¼ yards) of Dritz 1" Fold-Over Elastic; we used red Dritz Fold Over elastic from the Dritz Babyville division. 
  NOTE: Many colors and design options are available in Babyville as well as in the standard Dritz carded Fold-Over Elastic.
• ONE package of Dritz Reflective Ribbon, which contains one yard each of 2" ribbon, ¾" ribbon and ⅜" – for this project you will use the ¾" and ⅜" ribbon and can save the 2" for future projects.
• ONE Dritz Key Fob Hardware set
• ONE Dritz size 16 (1.1 cm) metal snap
• ONE SET of Dritz Snap Pliers
• ⅓ yard of ⅝" grosgrain ribbon; we used black, purchased locally
• 1¼ yards of 1" wide polyester webbing; we used black, purchased locally
• ⅓ yard of ¾" wide polyester webbing; we used black, purchased locally 
• All purpose thread to match fabric, binding and webbing
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Seam gauge
• Seam ripper
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Iron and ironing board
• Pressing cloth
• Straight pins or clips - we recommend, and used, the Dritz Getta Grip&

Quintessential: representing the most perfect or typical example of a quality or class. We may be blowin' our own horn a bit here, but we absolutely love this plaid tote, and we really believe it has all the traits needed to rocket to the top of the charts for cool and classic totes. We found our perfect plaid at Fabric.com. It's reminiscent of a vintage Pendleton® "49'er" jacket. We also show you its companion plaid in shades of pink. Precision cutting – both straight and on the bias, piping accents, and corded handles are just a few of the styling particulars that give our tote its iconic appeal.

We've pictured the tote relaxing in countryside locales as well as shopping in the urban hustle. It obviously has the fashion muscle to look great in any situation. 

Thanks to our easy instructions, classic does not automatically mean complex. Though we recommend reading through the instructions carefully before beginning, and taking care with the stitching details, we still feel the project is appropriate for even newer sewers. 

In additional to this beautiful blue and tan palette, this same plaid is available in a pink and camel combination.

The tote finishes at approximately 17" high x 18" wide x 5" deep with an approximate 8" handle loop.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Sewing Machine and standard presser foot
• Zipper foot
• Quarter Inch Seam foot (optional, but good for precision seaming)

Fabric and Other Supplies

• 2 yards of 54"+ heavy-weight wool-style plaid for the exterior; we used 54" Mirage in Stillwater (52% cotton/48% polyester) from the Pennington Plaid I collection by Kaslen Home Decor
  NOTE: The yardage recommendation above is based on our plaid selection and includes extra for the pattern matching and bias cutting for the base, flap and handles.
• 1 yard of 44"+ wide quilting-weight cotton for the lining; we used 44" Kona Cotton in Parchment 
• 1½ yards of 45"+ wide medium weight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon Décor Bond
• 1½ yards of 20" wide lightweight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon ShirTailor
• 1 yard of 1½" piping cord** (also called welt); we use Conso cotton piping in a size #8, purchased locally
  NOTE: **At these larger sizes, we found two distinctly different sizing methods. Some companies used the diameter of the cut end, which is this case is ½". Others used the circumference, which for our sample is 1½". 
• 1 yard of ¼" boning - this is optional, but is what allows the handles to stand up on their own; we used Dritz ¼" white boning
• TWO packages (3 yards) of ½" inch piping in a coordinating accent color; we used Wrights Maxi Piping in Black
• ONE 9" standard zipper to match the lining fabric; we used a tan polyester zipper, purchased locally
• ONE magnetic purse snap; we used a Clover ¾" Snap in Antique Gold (#0334117) from Fabric.com
• All purpose thread to match fabric
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Iron and ironing board
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Tape measure
• Seam gauge
• Seam ripper
• Straight pins
• Hand sewing needle

Getting Started

1. From the plaid for the exterior, precisely fussy cut all the pieces. We've included an illustration above, which shows you our cutting plan. Remember, not all plaids are perfectly square. Pick your center point, then always measure both horizontally and vertically to both sides to plan your cut. 
   
2. When cutting the pieces on the bias, you will also need to be very careful with your measuring; you cannot simply measure through the center of the plaid assuming it is square and the diagonal is a perfect 45˚. It is most important to make sure the "triangle" that will be at the center front of the bias cut base section perfectly aligns with the straight plaid section directly above it. On our bag drawing above, you can see how we lined up a blue "triangle" of plaid with a tan "square" of plaid.
   
3. The exterior cuts are as follows:
   TWO 10" high x 24" wide rectangles for the exterior top
   TWO 5" high x 24" wide strips for the facing of the lining
   TWO 11½" high x 24" wide rectangles, on the bias, for the exterior base
   ONE 10½" high x 5" wide rectangle, on the bias, for the flap
   
   TWO 3½" high x 19" wide strips, on the bias, for the handles
   
4. From the fabric for the lining, cut the following:
   TWO 16½" x 24" rectangles for the main lining
   ONE 11" x 16" rectangle for the lining pocket
   ONE 5" x 10½" strip, on the bias, for the flap lining
   NOTE: We recommend also cutting the flap lining on the bias so it curves just as nicely as the exterior plaid.
5. From the medium weight fusible interfacing, cut the following:
   TWO 10" x 24" rectangles
   TWO 11½" x 24" rectangles
   TWO 5" x 24" rectangles
   ONE 10½" x 5" rectangle
6. From the lightweight fusible, cut TWO 16½" x 24" rectangles.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Fusing

1. The amount of interfacing needed is somewhat up to your personal preference and the weight of the plaid your select. 
2. For our sample we followed manufacturer's instructions to fuse the medium weight interfacing to the wrong side of all four exterior panels, the two facing strips, and the flap lining. We then followed manufacturer's instructions to fuse the lightweight interfacing to the wrong side of the two lining panels.
3. The handles and lining pocket were not interfaced, nor was the front of the flap.
   NOTE: In some of the photos below, you may see non-interfaced panels. This is because we sometimes experiment with various interfacing options as we build our prototypes. We are not always able to capture photos of all these options. The fusing notes given above and the cuts shown above in the Getting Started section are what we recommend for our specified fabrics. 

Create the exterior bag

1. Find the four exterior panels: two plain and two cut on the bias. 
2. Cut TWO 24" lengths of piping. Place one length along the bottom raw edge of each plain exterior panel, aligning the piping's insertion tape with the raw edge of the fabric. Machine baste the piping in place.
   
3. Place the fabric panels right sides together as two pairs: one bias and one plain in each pair. Align the bottom raw edge of the plain panel with the top raw edge of the bias panel. Pin both pairs in place.
   
4. The piping will be sandwiched between the two layers.
   
5. Using a Zipper foot, stitch across both pairs, running your seam as close as possible to the piping. Press open the seam allowances.
6. Place the two sewn exterior panels right sides together, aligning all the raw edges and carefully matching up the horizontal seams. Pin in place along both sides and across the bottom.
7. Attach a standard presser foot. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners. 
   
8. Create 5" box corners, which means your "box" will be half that size or 2½".
   NOTE: If you are new to this technique, check out our tutorial: How To Box Corners.
   
9. Turn the exterior bag right side out, push out the corners and press well.
10. Cut a 48" length of piping. Pin it around the top raw edge of the exterior bag. We finished our ends along a side seam. As with the other lengths, the insertion tape of the piping should be flush with the raw edge of the fabric. Pin in place.
    NOTE: If you are new to working with and/or finishing the ends of piping, check out our full step-by-step piping tutorial.
    
11. Using a Zipper foot, machine baste the piping in place, running the seam as close to the piping as possible.
    
12. Press back the top raw edge so the raw edge is hidden against the wrong side of the fabric and the piping creates a finished top edge all around. Press well. You can also lightly pin the folded edge in place.
    
13. Set aside the exterior bag

Create the lining pocket

1. Find the 11" wide x 16" high lining pocket panel and the 9" zipper. Measure 3" down from the top raw edge of the fabric panel and cut across horizontally, dividing the panel into two sections. The zipper will go between the two sections. 
   
2. Place the small top section right sides together with the top edge of the zipper. The zipper should be centered side to side. Pin in place.
3. Using a Zipper foot and a ¼" seam allowance, stitch across through both layers.
   
   NOTE: As with most zipper insertions, start with the zipper half way open. Stitch to the middle, where you can start to feel you're approaching the zipper pull. Stop with your needle in the down position. Twist your fabric around slightly and carefully close the zipper. Re-position and finish sewing to the end. 
4. Press the fabric up and away from the zipper.
   
5. Repeat to stitch the top edge of the large bottom pocket section to the bottom edge of the zipper. 
   
6. As with the small section, press the large section away from the zipper teeth. Edgestitch along both sides of the zipper.
   
7. Fold up the bottom edge of the pocket panel to align with the top edge. The pocket panel should be right sides together. Pin along both sides. 
   
8. Re-attach a standard presser foot. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch the sides. 
9. Trim the seam allowances back to just under ¼". 
   
10. Turn the pocket right sides out and press. Using a ¼" seam allowance, topstitch along each side. 
    
11. This seam encloses the unfinished edges of the pocket so there are no exposed edges inside the pocket. A bit like aFrench seam, but in reverse.
    

Complete the lining

1. Find the two 16½" x 24" lining panels and the two 5" x 24" facing strips (which are in the exterior fabric).
2. Place one lining panel right side up and flat on your work surface. 
3. Place the finished pocket along the top edge of this panel. Center the pocket side to side and align the top raw edge of the panel with the raw edges of the pocket. Pin or hand baste the pocket in place.
   
4. Place one facing strip right sides together along the top of the lining panel, sandwiching the pocket between the layers. Pin in place. 
   
5. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch across through all the layers.
6. Press the seam allowance up towards the facing.
   
7. Topstitch ¼" from the seam within the facing strip. We used our Quarter Inch Seam foot. This helps secure the seam allowance in position and offers some extra stability for the pocket at the seam line. 
   
8. Repeat to attach the remaining facing strip to the top of the remaining lining panel. 
   
9. Place the two lining panels right sides together, aligning all the raw edges, being especially careful to match up the facing strips. Pin along both sides and across the bottom. 
10. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners. 
    
11. As above for the exterior bag, create 5" box corners in the lining. 
    
    NOTE: As mentioned above, If you are new to this technique, check out our tutorial: How To Box Corners.

Create the flap

1. Find the interfaced flap lining and the flap exterior. 
2. Measure and mark the position for the male end on the magnetic snap on one end of the flap lining. The position should be 1½" up from the raw edge and centered side to side.
   
3. Make small slits and insert the male half of the magnetic snap. 
   
4. Secure on the wrong side of the flap lining.
   
   NOTE: If you are new to inserting magnetic snaps, check out our full step-by-step tutorial: How to Insert a Magnetic Snap Closure. 
5. Place the flap lining right sides together with the flap exterior. Pin along both sides and across the bottom where the magnetic snap is placed.
   
6. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch along both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners. The opposite end remains open and raw. 
   
7. Clip the corners and turn the flap right side out. Press flat.
8. Lengthen the stitch and topstitch along the seam, using a ¼" seam allowance. We used our Quarter Inch Seam foot. 
   
9. Set the finished flap aside.
   

Create the handles

1. Find the two 3½" x 19" bias cut fabric strips, the piping cord, and the boning (if using boning). Cut TWO 13" lengths from the cording and TWO 19" lengths from the boning. Tape all the ends of the piping cord to keep them from unraveling.
2. Press one fabric strip in half lengthwise to set a center crease.
3. Press in each long raw edge to meet in the middle at the crease line.  
   
4. Unfold the strip flat so all three crease lines are visible. 
5. Re-fold the strip right sides together. Measure 3" in from each end and place a pin. 
6. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch from each pin mark out to the end of the strip. So you now have a strip with a 3" seam on each end.
   
7. Press the two short seams open, then continue pressing the length of the strip, following along your original crease lines. You've created a casing sleeve for the handle. Turn it right side out. Press again if necessary.
8. Slip one end of the cording into each end of the handle sleeve. Each end of the cording should sit approximately ½" beyond the seam stop. 
   
9. Hand stitch the cording in place. You just need a few tacking stitches.
   
10. Repeat to secure the opposite end of the cord in the same manner. Make sure the cord lays flat prior to hand-tacking the second end.
11. Fold the entire sleeve so the two folded edges meet. The cording should slide to one side, allowing you to pin the edges together. The fabric is thick, so you'll need to futz with this step a bit. Fold in as close as you can get to the cording then pin in place. 
    
12. Using a Zipper foot, edgestitch the along the length of the sleeve, starting and stopping the seam at the ends of the cording or approximately 2½" from each sleeve end. 
    
    NOTE: As with the folding step above, this seam is tricky because of the thickness of the fabric and the dimension of the cording. The good thing is that both the fabric and the piping cord are soft, allowing you to "mush" them to one side as you SLOWLY stitch the seam (yes, "mush" is a highly technical sewing term). We also reduced the pressure a bit on our presser foot to allow more flexibility. 
13. Repeat to create the second handle. 
14. If using boning, thread one length through the open end of each sleeve, gently working it around until it comes out the opposite end. Try to keep the boning resting against the edgestitched seam. If necessary, you can lightly pin each end in place against the fabric. 
    NOTE: Remember, the boning is optional, but it does allow the handles a bit more rigidity so they easily stand up on their own. Boning is actually kind of fun to work with, and it is meant to be sewn across, so don't sweat it when you stitch your final topstitching seam. 

Insert the second half of magnetic snap

1. Find the exterior bag and the finished flap. 
2. Measure from side seam to side seam to find the exact center of the bag front. Mark this position with a pin.
3. Center the flap against the front of the bag. There is some flexibility in exactly where the flap in placed. We accounted for ½" for a seam allowance at the top raw edge of the flap plus an additional 1" of "play" to allow the flap to bridge from the back to the front of the bag. So our flap extended 1½" above the top piped edge of the exterior bag. 
   
4. Our snap center point (as matched to the flap) is now 7" down from the top piped edge of the bag. 
5. We marked it on an intersection of the plaid, and inserted the female half of the magnetic snap.
   
   NOTE: As mentioned above, if you are new to inserting magnetic snaps, check out our full step-by-step tutorial: How to Insert a Magnetic Snap Closure.

Finishing

1. Find the lining bag. Turn it wrong side out. 
2. Press back the top raw edge ½" all around.
   
3. Find the exterior bag. It should be right side out. 
4. Slip the lining inside the exterior so the two are now wrong sides together. Align the side seams and bottom boxed corners. 
5. Along the top, the folded edge of the lining shoul

I think we can all agree little things tend to be pretty dang cute: babies, puppies, kittens, Barbie® shoes... but let's face it, sometimes you need BIG to take care of business. This fun storage bin lives up to its jumbo name. It's a large-and-in-charge fabric basket that's ready to take on your bigger storage tasks. From books to blankets to balls of yarn, if you have a lot to keep track of, this project is for you. We chose two bold fabrics in organic cotton. And what is that dynamite looking "rope" ringing the top and creating the handles? Piping cord! Inexpensive yet just the right soft and strong combo. 

We originally used an organic cotton canvas for our exterior fabric, which provided enough natural heft that a single layer of heavy fusible interfacing was enough to allow the basket to easily stand up on its own. We recommend this type of medium-weight substrate for the best results.

The Birch Fabrics cotton canvas we originally used is currently on back order at Fabric.com. However, they carry a wide selection, and we found two new prints from the same Birch Fabrics' Charley Harper collection that would be a great alternative: Foxsimilies in Grey from the Organic Canvas collection by Charley Harper Nurture for Birch Fabrics for the exterior and Feathers in Mineral from the Organic Cotton collection by Charley Harper Nuture for Birch Fabrics for the lining.

In addition to the heavier-weight exterior, the top ring of piping cord adds to the stability and helps hold the round shape.

As with any large project, wrangling the big sections of this basket through your machine can sometimes be a bit of a challenge. Remember our top tips: 1) make sure you test your stitch length, needle type, and tension settings on scraps first to insure your machine is firing on all cylinders; 2) go slowly and stop as needed, with your needle in the down position, to adjust the fabric under the foot; and 3) if you're getting frustrated, take a break... even if you walk away with the project still in the machine. 

The tote finishes at approximately 17" high x 16" in diameter.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome 4120QDC)
• Zipper foot
• Quarter Inch Seam foot (optional, but helpful for the topstitching)
• Ditch Quilting foot (optional, another option for topstitching)
• Denim needle 

Fabric and Other Supplies

Supplies shown are for ONE bin and yardage is figured to allow for a vertical motif. Should you choose a different fabric with a more random motif, you may be able to get away with a smaller cut. See the actual cut sizes in the Getting Started section below. 

• 2 yards of 44"+ wide light to medium-weight cotton canvas or similar for the exterior; we used 44" Cardinal Stagger in Red from the Organic Canvas collection by Charley Harper for Birch Fabrics
• 2 yards of 44"+ wide quilting-weight cotton for the lining; we used 44" Flight in Paprika from the Organic Flight collection by Birch Fabrics 
• 2 yards of 20"+ heavy, one-sided fusible interfacing; we used Pellon 71F Peltex Fusible Stabilizer (#0307088) from Fabric.com 
• 2½ yards of 1½" piping cord** (also called welt) or a similar width of soft rope; we use Conso cotton piping in a size #8, purchased locally
  NOTE: **At these larger sizes, we found two distinctly different sizing methods. Some companies used the diameter of the cut end, which is this case is ½". Others used the circumference, which for our sample is 1½". You want it to be thick enough to stabilize the top and create easy-to-grip handles, but it also needs to fit through the casing and the grommets. 
• FOUR extra-large eyelets/grommets; we used a Dritz Extra-Large (7/16") Eyelet Kit in Nickel 
• All purpose thread to match fabric
• Heavy topstitching thread in a coordinating color for topstitching accents; we used Coats Heavy in Natural, purchased locally
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Iron and ironing board
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Tape measure
• Seam gauge
• Seam ripper
• Straight pins
• Fabric glue
• Duct tape or similar

Getting Started

1. Download and print out FOUR copies of each of the TWO pattern pieces: Canvas Basket Pattern Piece-A and Canvas Basket Pattern Piece-B.
   IMPORTANT: Each pattern is ONE 8½" x 11" sheet. You must print the PDF files at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a guide rule on each page so you can confirm your final printout is to scale.
2. Cut out all eight pattern pieces along the solid lines. Using the printed arrows as your guide, align each A piece with a corresponding B piece to create four quarter circle segments. Then, again using the printed arrows as your guide, match up the four quarter segments to create one full circle. As an alternative, you can print and assemble just two quadrants into a half circle and cut on the fold, as shown below. For all matching, butt together and tape; do not overlap.
3. From the fabric for the exterior (Cardinal Stagger in Red in our sample), fussy cut the following:
   TWO 24½" wide x 17" high rectangles
   Using the pattern, cut ONE circle for the base
   NOTE: This is a wonderfully large tote. Take the time to use the both the gridlines on your cutting mat and your see-through ruler to carefully fussy cut your fabric for the most striking look.
   
4. From the fabric for the lining (Flight in Paprika in our sample), fussy cut the following:
   NOTE: Although "just" the lining, you should still take the time to carefully fussy cut in order to create a a nice motif for the top band of the lining that folds over the top.
   TWO 24½" wide x 20½" high rectangles
   Using the pattern, cut ONE circle for the base
   
5. From the fusible interfacing, cut the following:
   NOTE: The dimensions don't need to be precise; you simply want the interfacing a bit larger than your exterior fabric pieces.
   TWO approximately 25½" wide x 18" high rectangles
   ONE 17" x 17" square
6. Cut the piping cord (or rope) into ONE 50" length and TWO 18" lengths. Tape all the raw ends to prevent them from raveling. 

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Fusing

1. Center the two exterior rectangles and the exterior base on the corresponding interfacing panels. The wrong side of the fabric should be against the fusible side of the interfacing. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse in place. 
2. Trim the interfacing flush with the bottom circle...
   
3. ... and the panels. If possible, use a rotary cutter on the panels for the cleanest edge.
   
   NOTE: Once fused, these pieces will be quite stiff and a little tricky to maneuver, but will result in a nice large tote that can stand up on its own. 

Create the exterior body

1. Place the two exterior rectangles right sides together along one 17" raw edge. Pin together.
   
2. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch together. Press open the seam allowance from both the back...
   
3. ... and the front so it lays as flat as possible. You will need to press firmly to flatten.
   
4. Re-thread the machine with the heavy thread in the top and bobbin. If possible, attach either a Quarter Inch Seam foot orDitch Quilting foot. Lengthen the stitch.
   
5. Topstitch ¼" to either side of the seam. Using a foot with a flange guide is optional, but will make the precise topstitching so much easer.
   
6. Place the opposite 17" raw edges of the exterior panels right sides together, forming a tube. Pin in place. Stitch together, using a ½" seam allowance.
7. As above, re-thread and topstitch to either side of the seam. This side will be a bit trickier since the panel is now a tube. Work slowly, flattening the fabric in small sections as you stitch. If you see wrinkles, don't worry, the fabric will press out beautifully. 

Insert the base into the exterior body

1. Find the fused exterior base circle. Fold it in half, top to bottom, and place a pin at each edge of the fold. 
2. Open up and re-fold the opposite direction, again placing a pin at each edge of the fold. You can also use your paper pattern to help find these points.
   
3. You are creating quadrant pins around the circle, like the points on the face of a clock: 12:00, 3:00, 6:00 and 9:00.
   
4. Repeat this process with the exterior body. First, bring together the two seams of the body; these are your 3:00 and 9:00 points. Then, fold the opposite direction to mark the 12:00 and 6:00 points. 
5. Set the base into the loop so the two pieces are right sides together. Align the quadrant pins of the exterior body with the quadrant pins of the base circle. 
   
6. Pin at the quadrant points first, then fill in around the circle. Don't be afraid to use a lot of pins in order to get the two pieces to lay flat against one another. 
   
7. This technique is the same as any project where you are inserting a flat circle into a tube. If you are new to this process, check out our full, step-by-step tutorial. 
8. If necessary, re-thread the machine with standard thread to match the fabric in the top and bobbin.
9. Using a ¼" seam allowance, stitch all the way around the circle. We used the edge of our standard presser foot as our guide. Go slowly, holding the layers flat with your fingers if necessary to avoid any puckers.
   
10. Turn the basket right side out and iron the seams. It will be very stiff, but proper pressing will help ensure the basket sits flat. If you have a pressing ham, this might help with the curved edge. 
    

Create the lining with its top casing and piping 

1. Find the lining rectangles and base circle. They are assembled in the same manner as the exterior body.
2. First stitch the side seams and topstitch to either side. Remember to re-thread the machine with heavy thread in the top and bobbin for the topstitching.
   
3. Mark and insert the base into the tube.
   
4. And stitch all around, using a ¼" seam allowance. Remember to re-thread back to standard thread. As mentioned above, if you are new to this technique, check out our full, step-by-step tutorial on inserting a flat circle into a tube.
   
5. Fold down the top raw edge of the lining basket ¼" and press. Then fold down an additional 3" and press again. Pin in place.
   
6. Re-thread the machine with the heavy topstitching thread in the top and bobbin. 
7. To form the casing tunnel, stitch 1" away from the top folded edge, leaving a 2" - 3" break in the seam to insert the cording. 
   NOTE: Our Janome machine has great plate markings and we were able to use the 1" guide on the plate to keep our seam straight. If you do not have a 1" plate marking, you might want to consider measuring and drawing in a guideline with a fabric pen or pencil. 
   
8. Remember to lock your seam on either side of the 2" - 3" opening. 
   
9. Find the 50" length of piping cord. Feed one end into the casing opening. The cording is thick though that you should be able to work it through on its own rather than needing to attach a large safety pin to one end, which is a common practice with thinner cording. 
   
10. Thread the cording all the way through. When it comes out the opposite side of the opening, place the two raw ends together and lay the piping down against the fabric. If it doesn't lay flat, trim away a bit from one side until it does. 
11. Use a small dot of fabric glue to adhere the butted-together ends. The, wrap the joint with a small strip of duct tape to secure. 
    
12. Let the piping circle slide back into position within the casing tunnel. 
    
13. Refold the top hem back into position and pin in place.
    
14. Attach a Zipper foot and stitch the remaining section of the casing seam, carefully matching the new segment with the beginning and end of the existing seam.

Attach the lining to the exterior

1. Turn the lining wrong side out. Find the exterior basket; it should be right side out. 
2. Slip the lining inside the exterior so the two are now wrong sides together. Carefully align the seams of the two pieces and make sure the base of the lining is sitting flat against the exterior base. 
3. Fold the top of the lining over the raw top edge of the exterior. The piping should fit snuggly against the top edge of the exterior and the bottom folded edge of lining should extend another 2" over the exterior. Be VERY careful to line up the topstitching on the lining with the topstitching on the exterior. Pin in place, using LOTS of pins. 
   
   NOTE: If you are new to working with firmly structured 3-D items, you may want to consider hand basting the overlapping lining in place. Maneuvering the basket through the machine for these final two lines of topstitching can be a bit of a challenge. If you have a free arm on your machine, this would be a good time to use it. As with all challenging parts of any project, go slowly and stop as needed, with your needle in the down position, to adjust the layers and align the seam.
4. Using a Zipper foot, stitch all the way around the top of the basket, following the exact path of the original casing seam.
5. Switch back to a Standard foot and stitch all the way around the bottom of the lining overlap. Run your seam ¼" from the folded edge of the lining. 
6. Press well.
   

Grommets and handle loops

1. Find the four grommets and the two 18" lengths of cording/rope. 
2. Measure to find the exact center point along the top lining panel on each side. Remember, the topstitched seams are the actual front and back of the basket, so the handles will be opposite these seams. Fold the top of the basket together, matching the seams, where the basket folds to the left and right of the seams are the side center points. Mark these points with pins. If you want to be more precise, you can use a tape to measure from the center of each seam 11⅞" around to each side. Again, mark each side center point with a pin. 
   
3. Measure 2½" to the left of each side center point and mark.
   
4. Then measure 2½" to the right of each side center point and mark. These two outer points are the positions for the grommets. 
   
5. Following the manufacturer's instructions of our own great Sew4Home step-by-step Grommet Installation Tutorial, insert one grommet over each marked point. 
   
6. You are inserting these grommets through some thick layers. Don't be afraid to whack that hammer with purpose. It's a great way to take out some frustrations!
   
7. Find one of the 18" lengths of piping cord. Thread it through one set of grommets. Thread from back to front through one, then from front to back through the second. 
   
8. Tie a secure knot in one end and pull the knot firmly against the grommet. 
   
9. Adjust the loop of the handle for a 3½" drop.
   
10. Tie a knot in the opposite end of the loop to secure this drop length. 
11. Trim the excess cord flush against each knot.
    
12. Repeat to attach the remaining handle. Apply a seam sealant to prevent the cording from fraying. 

There are many things that make fall fabulous: leaves on the trees exploding with color, the aroma of a rich stew simmering on stove, morning frost sketching delicate patterns on the window panes. If you're a lover of sewing and craft, it's also the time when we leave behind the distractions of summer and turn once again to our trusty sewing machines. We're taking a very fabulous look at fall this week and next with our friends from Fabric.com. We have two weeks of gorgeous fabrics and the perfect projects to welcome the art of autumn. Our series starts off with today's Canteen Bag, featuring two classic fall fabrics: wool suiting and corduroy.

If you've always been a bit hesitant about sewing circles... especially circles that become tubes, it's time to conquer your fears. Even with all its beautiful curves and professional finishing touches, our Canteen Bag is a project that is so much easier than it seems. We provide a pattern for the front and back exterior circles as well as the pretty front pocket. Even so, you might enjoy reading through our complete step-by-step tutorial: How To Make and Measure a Circle Without a Pattern. 

The bag features a layered lining with the resulting interior seam allowances covered by fold-over elastic. This construction method is easier than a traditional two-part lining, and the elastic binding is much more forgiving than fabric bias binding. 

Our thanks to Fabric.com for sponsoring the Fabulous Fall series. If you haven't visited Fabric.com before, make today the day you start – or should I say, the day your "addiction" begins?! Be prepared to lose yourself for a few hours. If you're already a Fabric.com shopper, you know there's always something new to see, like the Deal of the Day on their home page or Seasonal Specials. 

Depending on the fabric weight you select as well as the weight of the front D-ring, you may wish to add a snap to the top of the exterior pocket or even simply hand tack it in place at the apex of the curve. The wool suiting we selected was interfaced and stood up nicely on its own during our photography session. However, given more weight, it could fall open. A snap or hand tack is a fast and easy addition that can be added during construction or even after the fact. 

The bag finishes at approximately 9" in diameter and is 2½" deep. The shoulder strap is fully adjustable. 

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome Horizon Memory Craft 8900 QCP)
• Zipper foot

Fabric and Other Supplies

NOTE: Inventory shifts constantly, and some fabric may not be in-stock when you first visit. However, there are other color options as well as re-stock dates listed when appropriate for each fabric at the Fabric.com site. 

• ½ yard of 44"+ wide wool suiting or similar for the bag's front and back exterior and the front pocket; we used 60" Wool Blend (50% wool/50% polyester) Herringbone Suiting in Brown/Lime (#0350973) from Fabric.com
• 1 yard of 54"+ wide corduroy or similar for the bag's side panels, strap, piping and pocket binding: we used 58" 21-Wale Corduroy in Olive Drab by Robert Kaufman Fabrics (#0304632) from Fabric.com 
  NOTE: You will have extra yardage left over with this amount. We figured our major cuts with the wale running lengthwise, a better look but one which does require more fabric. 
• ½ yard of 44"+ wide quilting weight cotton or similar for the bag's lining; we used 44" Medallions in Dark Green from the A Year To Crow About collection by Red Rooster Fabrics (#0367334) from Fabric.com
• ¾ yard of 20"+ wide medium weight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon Décor Bond
• 2 yards of 3/16" to ¼" piping cord; we used Wrights Cotton Piping Size 2" (#NR-362) from Fabric.com 
  NOTE: Size 2 is ¼". Size 1 is 3/16".
• 2 yards of ⅝" fold-over elastic to coordinate with the lining fabric; we used fold over elastic in dark brown, purchased locally
• ONE 14"+ zipper; we used a 26" metal zipper, purchased locally
  NOTE: Shorter metallic zippers can be hard to find. We simply cut ours to fit, which is simple to do. For the best look on this project, we recommend a metal zipper in a chunkier style. 
• THREE 1" D-rings to match the style/color of the metal zipper; we used antique brass, purchased locally
• ONE 1" Tri-Slide Slider to match the style/color of the metal zipper; we used antique brass, purchased locally
  NOTE: As with the zipper, we recommend a thicker/heavier hardware. It gives a much more professional look. 
• All purpose thread to match fabric
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Iron and ironing board
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Tape measure
• Seam gauge
• Seam ripper
• Straight pins
• Hand sewing needle

Getting Started

1. Download and print out the TWO pattern pieces. Print TWO COPIES of Canteen Bag Body. Print ONE COPY ofCanteen Exterior Pocket.
   IMPORTANT: Each pattern is ONE 8½" x 11" sheet. You must print the PDF files at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a guide rule on each page so you can confirm your final printout is to scale.
2. Cut out each pattern along the solid line. 
3. Match up the two Bag Body pattern pieces, using the printed arrows as your guide. Butt together and tape; do not overlap.
4. From the fabric for the bag's front and back exterior and the front pocket (Brown Lime Herringbone in our sample), cut the following:
   Using the Bag Body pattern, cut TWO circles. If you have a strong motif, such as our pretty woven stripes, make a careful fussy cut to keep the motif straight up and down. 
   
5. Using the Bag Exterior Pocket pattern, cut one pocket. Match the pocket pattern so it perfectly aligns with the front exterior circle. 
   
   Then, fussy cut the pocket from the fabric with the same alignment.
   
6. From the fabric for the bag's side panels, strap, piping and pocket binding (Olive Drab Corduroy in our sample), cut the following:
   ONE 3" x 66" strip (with the wale running lengthwise) for the strap and D-ring loops. You will need to cut two strips and join them together to equal a final cut length of 66"; the length of each strip will depend on the width of your chosen fabric. 
   ONE 3½" x 16½" rectangle (with the wale running lengthwise) for the bottom section of the side panel.
   ONE 3½" x 14" rectangle (with the wale running lengthwise) for the zipper panel.
   TWO 1¼" x 30" strips, on the bias, for the piping.
   NOTE: Because of the nice, wide width of our corduroy, we were able to cut each of our bias strips as single lengths. If your fabric is narrower, you may need to piece more than one bias strip to equal the finished 30" length. 
   ONE 1¼" x 15" strip, on the bias, for the pocket trim.
7. From the fabric for the lining (Medallions in Dark Green in our sample), cut the following:
   ONE 3½" x 16½" rectangle for the bottom section of the side panel.
   ONE 3½" x 14" rectangle for the zipper panel
   ONE 6" x 9" rectangle for the inside pocket 
   Using the Bag Body pattern, cut TWO circles
8. From the interfacing, cut the following:
   ONE 3½" x 16½" rectangle for the bottom section of the side panel.
   ONE 3½" x 14" rectangle for the zipper panel
   ONE 6" x 9" rectangle for the inside pocket 
   Using the Bag Body pattern, cut TWO circles
   Using the Bag Exterior Pocket pattern, cut one pocket
9. Cut two 30" lengths from the piping cord.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Fusing

1. Find the exterior front and back circles, the exterior pocket, and the two 3½" corduroy rectangles (the bottom section of the side panel and the zipper panel).
2. Find the five interfacing pieces that match up with the above fabric cuts. 
3. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the corresponding interfacing piece to the wrong side of each fabric piece. 
   

Create the strap and D-ring tabs

1. As mentioned above, you will need to piece two lengths of fabric to create the finished 66". Find your 3" fabric strips.
2. Attach the strips as you would multiple lengths of binding. Place the strip lengths at right angles to one another. Pin in place, then stitch across from top to bottom on the diagonal. Trim away the corner to approximately ¼" from the diagonal seam. 
   
3. Open out the seam allowance and press flat.
4. Fold the strip in half, right sides together, so it is now 1½" x 66". Align the raw edges and pin in place.
5. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch the entire length of the strip. The ends remain open.
   
6. Press the seam allowance open and turn the strap right side out. 
   NOTE: See our quick tip for turning skinny tubes using a hemostat.
7. Press the long strap flat. 
8. Edgestitch along both sides.
   
9. From the finished length, cut ONE 2" length for the pocket D-ring loop and TWO 3" lengths for the side D-ring loops. 
   NOTE: Yes, you are cutting through the seam. Don't worry, you'll secure it again when the strap and loops and stitched into position. 

Exterior pocket and front panel

1. Find the interfaced exterior pocket. Fold it in half to find the center of the pocket's top curve. Mark this center point. 
2. Find the 2" strap length and one of the D-rings. Slip the fabric through the D-ring and loop it back on itself, aligning the raw ends. 
3. Place the loop and ring at the marked top center point of the pocket. The raw ends of the loop should be flush with the raw edge of pocket fabric. Pin in place.
   
4. Find the 15" length of pocket binding (the 15" bias cut strip of corduroy in our sample).
5. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together and press to set a center crease. 
   
6. Unfold, wrong side up, so the crease line in visible. 
7. Align the top edge of the binding strip with the top curved edge of the exterior pocket. Pin in place along the length of the binding. 
8. Using a ¼" seam allowance, stitch in place the length of the binding. You are stitching across and securing the D-ring and its loop with this seam. 
   
9. Wrap the binding up and over to the back of the pocket. 
10. Fold the raw edge of the binding in on itself, tucking the raw edge up against the center crease line. Pin in place along the back. The width of the visible binding on the front should be about ½".
11. Thread a hand sewing needle with thread to best match the binding and hand stitch the binding in place, using small, neat whip stitches. 
    
12. Trim the ends of the binding to match the curve of the pocket.
    
13. Decide which of your exterior circles you like best. This will be the front circle. 
14. Lay one lining circle right side down on your work surface. Lay the front exterior circle right side up on top of the lining circle, so the two are now wrong sides together. The raw edges should be flush all around. 
15. Place the bound pocket on top of the front exterior circle right side up. Because you did such a great job fussy cutting, you can perfectly align the motif of the pocket with the motif of the front circle. Align the bottom curve of the pocket with the bottom raw edges of the circles. Pin in place along the bottom of the pocket.
    
16. Machine baste the pocket in place, stitching through all the layers.
    NOTE: We opted to continue our basting around the top of the circle as well to help keep the layers in place around the entire circle.

Interior pocket and back panel.

1. Find the 6" x 9" pocket panel and the 6" x 9" interfacing piece. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. 
2. Fold the pocket in half, right sides together, so it is now 6" wide x 4½" high. Pin along all three sides, leaving an approximate 2-3" opening along the bottom for turning.
3. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch around all sides, pivoting at the corners. Lock your seam on either side of the 2-3" opening. Press open the seam allowance. Clip the corners.
   
4. Turn right side out. Push out the corners so they are nice and sharp. A chopstick or long knitting needle works well for this. Press well, pressing in the raw edges of the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam.  
5. Find the remaining lining circle. Place it right side up on your work surface.
6. Place the finished pocket on the lining. It should be centered side to side (approximately 2⅞" from each raw edge) and 3⅛" down from the top. Pin in place along both sides and across the bottom. 
   
7. Edgestitch the pocket in place, through all the layers, along both sides and across the bottom. This secures the pocket and closes the opening at the bottom used for turning. 
   
8. Find the remaining exterior circle. Place the exterior circle and the lining circle with the pocket wrong sides together, aligning the raw edges all around. Pin the layers together. 
9. Machine baste all around, staying approximately ¼" from the raw edge. 

Create the piping

1. If this is your first time making piping, see our tutorial, How To Make And Attach Your Own Piping. We are summarizing the steps below.
2. Find the two 1¼" x 30 bias strips. If you needed multiple strips to equal your 30" lengths, stitch them together now in the same manner as the strap above. 
3. Find the matching lengths of piping cord.
4. Wrap the fabric, right side out, around the cord. Pin close to the cord to hold it in place. 
5. Using a Zipper foot, sew close to the cord to create your fabric covered piping. 
6. Find the front exterior circle with the pocket in place.
7. Pin piping to the right side of the circle, aligning the raw edges of the piping with the raw edge of the circle, and leaving about 1" free at the head and tail. We put our joining seam along the bottom edge of the pocket.
   
8. If necessary, you can clip the piping to better allow it to curve around the circle. 
9. Using a Zipper foot, start stitching about ½" from the raw end of the piping (to facilitate a clean finish). Stitch all the way around, through all the layers.
   
10. When you are about 1" from the starting point, stop and lock your stitch. 
11. Remove the project from the machine.
12. Lay the piping against the fabric so it is flat and smooth. 
13. With a seam ripper, peel back the fabric on the 1" head and tail to expose the cording underneath.
14. Trim the end of cording tail so it exactly meets the end of the sewn-down cording. Fold under the end of the loose fabric to create a clean edge. Trim away excess fabric if necessary. Lift up that little bit piping you left loose at the beginning and wrap the folded end of the tail under and around, overlapping about ½".
15. Stitch in place, matching your seam line. Again, check out our full piping tutorial if this is a new process for you. 
16. Repeat to create and attach piping to the exterior back circle. 

Zipper panel

1. Find the fused 3½" x 14" rectangle for the zipper opening, the fused 3½" x 16½" rectangle for the bottom of the side, and the two matching lining rectangles.
2. Pair up each exterior piece with its corresponding lining piece, placing them wrong sides together. 
3. Machine baste each pair together along their long outer sides, using a ¼" seam allowance.
4. Set the 16½" strip aside. 
5. Cut the 14" fused panel exactly in half lengthwise so you now have TWO 1¾" x 14" strips.
   
6. Find the zipper. Place it right side up and flat on your work surface. 
7. Place one strip right sides together along the top tape of the zipper. Center the zipper on the strip. If your zipper is longer than the opening, center it so the zipper pull is just over ½" in from the left end and let the extra zipper on the stop end simply extend beyond the right end. 
8. Pin in place.
   
9. Using a Zipper foot, stitch the length of the strip, running the seam as close to the zipper teeth as possible. 
   
10. Repeat to attach the remaining half of the strip to the bottom tape of the zipper.
11. Press the strips away from the zipper teeth. On both sides, the exterior layer is on top and the lining layer is on the the bottom, sandwiching the zipper tape in between the layers. 
12. Edgestitch through all the layers, staying very close to the seamline on both sides of the zipper.
    
    NOTE: As shown in the photo above, because we used an extra long zipper that would be cut to length, we were able to open the zipper all the way and stitch with the zipper pull completely out of the way. If you use a 14" zipper, start with the zipper half way open. Stitch to the middle, where you can start to feel you're approaching the zipper pull. Stop with your needle in the down position. Twist your fabric around slightly and carefully close the zipper. Re-position and finish sewing to the end. 
13. Close the zipper and baste across the ends of the zipper to secure.
    
14. Trim away the excess tape at the top of the zipper.
    
15. If need be, trim away the excess zipper at the bottom. 
    NOTE: It is really quite easy to cut a metal zipper. Simply cut one side and then the other. However, don't use your good sewing scissors!
    

Complete the center ring

1. Find the remaining 3" cut strap lengths and the remaining two D-rings. Loop a  fabric strip through each D-ring, folding it back on itself and aligning the raw ends. 
2. Place a loop and ring at each end of the zipper. The raw ends of the loop should be flush with the raw end of the zipper. Pin in place.  
3. Find the 16½" strip you set aside above.
4. Align one end of this strip right sides together with the top end of the zipper panel, sandwiching the loop and ring between the layers. Pin in place. 
   
5. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch in place.
   
6. Repeat to attach the opposite end of the bottom rectangle to the bottom end of the zipper panel, forming a loop. Pin in place. Double check that the loop in not twisted anywhere along its length. 
7. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch in place.
8. Press both seam allowances towards the bottom panel. 
9. Flip the D-ring loops up towards the zipper and edgestitch along the two short seams within the bottom panel. 
   
10. You now have a finished side loop.
    

Insert the front and back panels into the side loop

1. Find the front exterior circle. Fold it in half, top to bottom, and place a pin at each edge of the fold. 
   
2. This halfway point will be about 2" above the bottom curve of the pocket. 
   
3. Find the side loop. Set the front exterior panel into the loop so the two pieces are right sides together. Align the side pins of the front panel with the horizontal seams of the loop. Pin at these point first, then fill in around the circle. Double check to make sure the pocket opening is right side up towards the zipper.
4. This technique is the same as any project where you are inserting a flat circle into a tube. In this case, we simply have a very narrow tube. If you are new to this process, check out our full, step-by-step tutorial. 
   
5. Using a Zipper foot, stitch all the way around the circle, running your seam as close to the piping as possible. 
   
6. Repeat to add the back panel. Remember to check again on this side to make sure the lining pocket is facing up towards the zipper. 
7. This side will be a bit more challenging to wrangle under the presser foot because you no longer have an open side. However, by making sure the zipper is all the way open and working to flatten the layers, you should be able to go all the way around without a problem. As with all things that may present a challenge, go slowly and stop – with your needle in the down position – to adjust the layers as needed. 
8. Turn the bag all the way wrong side out. Trim back the seam allowances to ⅜" on both the front and back.
9. Find the fold over elastic. Cut a length to fit around one complete panel seam allowance. Wrap the elastic over the seam allowance, encasing the raw edges to give the seam allowance a finished edge inside the bag. Leave 1"

String style backpacks are everywhere for Fall, from ripstop athletic gear to high-end leather bags. They're compact and lightweight but can hold plenty. Ours is made in two bright fabrics from Ann Kelle's Beatbox collection for Robert Kaufman fabrics, which we found at Fabric.com. To give our design even more functionality, we added unique front crossover pockets, which create four individual sections to hold smaller items.

Our Beatbox backpack is modeled by an energetic seven-year-old, but the size and shape would work for any age. It's style that's ready to hit the road: a modern punch of color with a retro design. Tote it to the gym, fill it up with necessities for a day hike or picnic, slip it on for a bike ride to the farmer's market. Fusible fleece between the layers softens and stabilizes, and the adjustable cording shoulder straps, which thread through bottom eyelets, make going smaller or larger a snap.

Our thanks to Fabric.com for providing both the super cute fabric and the fun fold-over elastic in a vibrant chevron pattern that binds the front pockets. If you've never visited Fabric.com or haven't been back in awhile, there's always something new to discover; like the Deal of the Day on their home page; as well as the Just Arrived section for the latest bargains; and special featured items, like the super popular Cotton + Steel collections. 

Our backpack finishes at approximately 15½" tall x 12½" wide. 

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome Memory Craft 6300)

Fabric and Other Supplies

• 1 yard of 44" + cotton fabric for the pack exterior front and pockets: we used Beatbox in Bright Green by Ann Kelle for Robert Kaufman Fabrics (0337198) from Fabric.com
• 1 yard of 44" + fabric for the pack exterior back, drawcord casing and lining: we used Beatbox Headphones in Bright Green by Ann Kelle for Robert Kaufman Fabrics (0337200) from Fabric.com
• ½ yard of 45" medium-weight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon 809 Décor-Bond
• ½ yard of 45" one-sided fusible fleece; we used Pellon 987F Fusible Fleece
• 1 yard of ⅝" coordinating fold-over elastic: we used Chevron in Teal (0341999) from Fabric.com
• 4 yards of coordinating ¼" cording: we used light blue, purchased locally
• ONE large eyelet and TWO extra-large eyelets; we used Dritz Eyelets in Nickel in Large (1/4") and Extra-Large (7/16"), both in nickel and both offered as eyelets with an installation tool
• All-purpose sewing thread to match fabric and trim
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• See-through ruler
• Straight pins
• Iron and ironing board
• Pressing cloth
• Large safety pin or hemostats to pull cording
• To finish the ends of the cording: lighter or match to melt ends (if polyester), or seam sealant, or transparent tape

Getting Started

1. From the fabric for the exterior front and pockets (Beatbox in our sample), cut the following:
   ONE 15½" high x 14" wide rectangle for the main exterior front panel 
   FOUR 13" high x 14" wide rectangles for the pockets
2. From the fabric for the exterior back, drawcord casing and lining (Headphones in our sample), cut the following
   ONE 15½" high x 14" wide rectangle for the back exterior
   TWO 15½" high x 14" wide rectangles for the lining
   TWO 4" high x 14" wide strips for the casings
   NOTE: We recommend fussy cutting all the fabric, but it is particularly important for casing strips. The back casing channel will look best if it appears to be an extension of the back panel. 
3. From the cording, cut ONE 6" length for the hanger loop, then cut the remaining cording into TWO equal lengths.
   NOTE: Tape all the ends to prevent the cording from unraveling.
4. From the fusible fleece, cut TWO 15½" x 14" rectangles.
5. From the fusible interfacing, cut TWO 13" x 14" rectangles.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Prepare the front of the backpack

1. Find the 15½" x 14" front panel, the 15½" x 14" back panel and the two 15½" x 14" pieces of fusible fleece.
2. Using a pressing cloth and following manufacturer's instructions, fuse a fleece panel to the wrong side of each fabric panel. Make sure the edges of the fleece and fabric are flush on all sides of both pieces. 
      
3. Find the four 13" x 14" pocket panels and the two 13" x 14" pieces of fusible interfacing.  
4. Break the pocket panels into two pairs of two. Place the two pairs wrong sides together with an interfacing piece between the layers. Do not fuse anything yet.
5. Stack the layers together: fabric, interfacing, fabric, fabric, interfacing, fabric. Make sure the fabric motifs are all lined up properly.
   
6. Shuffle the stack so the edges of all six layers are flush on all sides. Place the stack flat on your work surface. 
7. Measure 6" down from the top along the right side and make a mark. Align a see-through ruler from the upper left corner down and across the front of the stack to the 6" mark. Draw a diagonal line.
   
8. Cut through all the layers along the drawn diagonal line. 
   
9. Separate the stack back into two pocket sandwiches. Following the manufacturer’s instruction, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of one fabric panel in each sandwich then re-layer as two pocket pairs, wrong sides together.
10. Machine baste along the diagonal edge of each pair, staying very close to the cut edge.
11. Cut two 15" lengths of fold-over elastic. Wrap the diagonal edge of each basted pocket pair and stitch in place. Stay as close to the edge of the elastic binding as possible, but make sure you are still catching both the front and back. Trim away the excess elastic at each end. 
    
12. Flip over one pair so the diagonal cuts are now mirror images of one another. Layer the two pockets one on top of the other, aligning the bottom and side edges. Mark and set the one smaller eyelet at the intersection where the pockets cross. The eyelet should be set down just far enough to clear the binding. If you are new to working with eyelets/grommets, check out our full step-by-step tutorial: How To Install Metal Grommets (don't let the name fool you; an eyelet is simply a small grommet).
    
13. Find the main exterior front panel, which you should have already fused with a layer of fleece. Place it right side up and flat on your work surface.
14. Place the pocket unit right side up on the exterior panel, aligning the bottom and sides.
15. Using the installed eyelet as your guide, draw a vertical line from the bottom of the eyelet down to the bottom of the layered panels. 
    
16. Thread the machine with thread to best match the fabric in the top and bobbin. 
17. Stitch along the drawn vertical line, locking your stitch just below the eyelet. If possible, for the cleanest look, use a lock stitch. If this is not a feature on your machine, leave the thread tails long and tie them to secure at the back of the front unit. 
     
18. This completes the front of the bag. 

Prepare the back of the backpack

1. Find the 15½ x 14 exterior back panel, which you should have already fused with a layer of fleece. Place it right side up and flat on your work surface. 
2. Measure to locate the exact center along the top edge. Find the 6" length of cording. This will become the hanger loop. With the center mark as your guide, pin the cording in place, creating an even loop. Our loop ends were approximately 1" to either side of the center mark. Let the taped ends extend beyond the top raw edge.
   

3. Stitch across the loop ends to secure, running this short seam approximately ¼" from the raw edge. Trim away the taped ends so the cord lays flush against the fabric.

     

Prepare and place the draw cord casings

1. If necessary, re-thread the machine with thread to best match the casing/back exterior/lining fabric in the top and bobbin.
2. Find the two 4" x 14" casing strips. On each strip, make a narrow, double turn hem along the 4" edges. To do this, fold in the raw edge ¼" and press. Fold in an additional ¼" and press again. Stitch the narrow hem in place, running the seam close to the folded edge. 
   
3. Fold each hemmed strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press well.
   
4. Find the front and back exterior panels. 
5. Place one folded casing strip along the top edge of the front panel, aligning the raw edges of the casing with the raw edge of the front panel, and centering the casing so it sits ½" from each side. Pin the casing in place.
   
6. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch the casing in place. 
   
7. Repeat to attach the remaining casing strip to the back exterior panel.
   
8. Press the seam allowances down, away from the casing.
   

Assemble front to back

1. Place the front and back exterior panels right sides together. Align the side and bottom edges and the hemmed ends of the casings. 
2. Open up the pressed casing seam allowances so you can stitch all the way to the top edge of the exterior panels.  
3. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch both sides and across the bottom. 
   
4. Remember to pivot at the corners and be very careful to make sure you pull the casings out of the way at the top. 
   
5. Your side seams should run right next to the casings, but should not penetrate the casings.
   
6. Leave the exterior bag wrong side out.

Prepare and attach the lining

1. Find the two 15½" x 14" lining pieces. Place the lining pieces right sides together and pin along both sides and across the bottom, leaving a 5-6" opening along the bottom for turning. 
2. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch both sides and across the bottom, remembering to lock your seam on either side of the 5-6" opening. Clip the corners and press open the seam allowances.
   
3. Turn the lining right side out. 
4. Find the exterior bag, which should still be wrong side out. Slip the lining inside the bag exterior so the exterior and lining are now right sides together. Pin together around the entire top edge.
   
5. Be very careful to match the side seams, opening up the seam allowance so it lays flat. 
   
6. Stitch all around the top edge, following right on top of the previously stitched casing seam.
   
7. Pull out the lining and check to be sure the casings did not get caught in the stitching.
   
8. Reach in through the 5-6" opening left in the bottom of the lining and pull the backpack right side out. 
   
9. The top corners should be completely sealed and the casings free.
   
10. With the lining still pulled out, press in the raw edges of the bottom opening so they are flush with sewn seam and pin in place.
    
11. Edgestitch the opening closed.
    
12. Push the lining down into place inside the backpack. Press the lining down and the casings up. 
    

Bottom eyelets and draw cord

1. Mark and cut a hole in each of the bottom corners. The center of the eyelet opening should be approximately 1" in from the side and 1" up from the bottom at each corner. Remember to place the bag face down on the table to set the eyelet.
   NOTE: You are inserting through quite a few layers, which is why we used the extra-large eyelets for the corners. The neck of the eyelet will fit through, but you have to use some force to hammer the top in place. As mentioned above, if your are new to working with eyelets/grommets, check out our tutorial: How To Install Metal Grommets.   
   
2. Attach a large safety pin or a pair of hemostats to one end of one length of cording.
3. Thread the cording through the top casings of the bag. Go from right to left through the front casing, then from left to right through the back casing. 
   
4. Reverse to thread the second length of cording: left to right through the front and then right to left through the back.
5. Pull the the cording so the ends are even on both sides.
6. Thread each pair of cording ends through its corner eyelet from back to front. 
7. If possible try the backpack on its intended wearer to adjust the length of the string straps. 
8. Tie the ends together into a double knot. Finish the ends in your favorite manner. If your cording is polyester, you can melt then ends with a lighter to seal. You could also use a seam sealant or wrap the ends with a transparent tape as we did.