Decorative stitching against a neutral canvas gives this slouchy bucket bag a great hipster style. We used the beautiful stitches available on the Janome Memory Craft 9900, which go up to 9mm in width. For a subtle boho flair, we then incorporated long, soft tassels at the sides and front. Read on to learn our unique steps for making these custom tassels: much less than buying, and in an exact color match!

There are decorative stitch accents along the top of the bag and the top of the exterior pocket, but the main feature is how we use them on the wide cross-body strap.

We added four lines of mirror-imaged decorative stiches down the length of the strap plus an embellished flat cord, which is stitched in place with a wide zig zag - a modern spin on a traditional heirloom technique. 

Searching for innovative closures for our bag and tote designs is always fun. We've employed zippers, drawstrings, turn locks, and more. But, we hadn't yet used one of the best "cincher-upper" techniques: the belt! It does an amazing job holding up your pants, and works equally well as a functional, fashionable closure for this cute bag. 

Our pretty custom tassels hang luxiously from the bag's side and sprout directly from the ends of twisted cord belt. If you've ever shopped for tassels, you know they can be hard to find in the color you want, and even if you do luck out and locate one to your liking, the price may surprise you. A single, small tassel can run $5.00 and up. Designer Alicia Thommas came up with an innovative way to unwrap twisted cording then sculpt it into perfectly-matched tassels. 

This bag finishes at approximately 11" wide x 13½" high x 6" deep. The cross-body strap finishes at approximately 3" x 54½".

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome Memory Craft 9900)
• Satin Stitch foot for decorative stitching (optional)

Fabric and Other Supplies

• ¾ yard of 45-60" wide medium to heavy-weight cotton canvas or similar for the main bag exterior panels, the exterior pocket, the belt loops, and the strap; we used 60" 10oz Bull Denim in Natural from Jo-Ann Fabric
  NOTE: If you use a fabric that is less than 60" wide, you should get a full yard as you will need to piece the strap, which is cut at 58".
• ¼ yard of 45"+ wide medium to heavy-weight cotton canvas or similar for the base accent; we used 54" Baja Fret in Greystone an Outdoor Canvas by Robert Allen from Jo-Ann Fabric 
• 1 yard of 44"+ wide standard weight cotton for the bag's lining, the exterior pocket's lining, and the lining pocket; we used a coordinating print purchased locally but not available online
• 2½ yards of ⅜ - ½" twisted cord; we used a soft gray metallic twisted cord, purchased locally
  NOTE: This is a standard décor trim, but make sure you get the kind that is two twisted strands covered in a shiny rayon. Our unique tassel technique is created by pulling away the rayon covering to reveal the polyester core. It is a bit harder to source online, but is eadily available at sewing and craft stores, such as Jo-Ann (where we found ours), Michael's, etc. 
• TWO 1" D-rings; we used Dritz D-rings in Black, which is actually kind of a gunmetal tone
• ½ yard of 45" wide medium to heavyweight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon's Décor Bond
• All purpose thread to match fabrics
• Rayon thread for decorative stitch accents; we used sage green 
• Small round or flat cording for optional corded accent on the bag's strap; we used Madeira Carat 2mm flat trim in Black Coral stitched in place with gray metallic thread
• Stabilizer as recommended by your machine's manual for the decorative stitching (a standard tear-away or a lightweight fusible should work if you have no recommendations to follow) – you need a piece approximately 3" x 58". You can also butt together pieces to create this length.
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Seam gauge
• Seam ripper
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Iron and ironing board
• Straight pins
• Large-eye upholstery needle

Getting Started

1. Download and print out the Strap End Template.
   IMPORTANT: This template is ONE 8½" x 11" sheet. You must print the PDF file at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a guide rule on the page so you can confirm your final printout is to scale.
2. Cut out the template along the solid line. Set it aside.
3. From the fabric for the main bag exterior panels, the exterior pocket, the belt loops, and the strap, cut the following:
   FOUR 10" wide x 13½" high rectangles for the main panels
   ONE 11" wide x 8" high rectangle for the exterior pocket
   FOUR 2½" x 4" strips for the belt loops
   ONE 7½" x 58" strip for the cross-body strap
   NOTE: Remember, if your fabric is less than 60" wide, you'll need to cut two pieces and seam the together to get a 58" finished length.
4. From the fabric for the base accent, fussy cut TWO 19" wide x 6" high rectangles.
5. From the fabric for the bag's lining, the exterior pocket's lining, and the lining pocket, cut the following:
   TWO 19" x 16" rectangles for the lining
   ONE 11" wide x 8" high rectangle for the exterior pocket lining
   ONE 11" wide x 16" high rectangle for the lining pocket
6. From the interfacing, cut the following:
   TWO 10" x 7½" rectangles for the pockets
   TWO 18" x 5" rectangles for the base of the bag (optional). 
   NOTE: Interfacing the base accent panels provides a bit more stability but is not mandatory since the bag is designed to be slouchy.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Create the exterior pocket

1. Find the 11" x 8" exterior pocket panel, the 11" x 8 lining panel and one 10" x 7½" interfacing panel.
2. Place the interfacing on the wrong side of the exterior pocket panel. The interfacing should be flush with the bottom of the fabric panel and centered side to side. This leaves a ½" reveal of fabric along the top and both sides. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the exterior pocket panel. 
   
3. Place the fused exterior panel and the lining panel right sides together; the raw edges should be flush all around. Pin in place across the top and along both sides. 
4. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch across the top and along both sides, remembering to pivot at the corners. The bottom remains open. 
5. Trim the corners diagonally and turn the pocket right side out. Push out the corners so they are nice and sharp. A long, blunt end tool, like a knitting needle or chopstick, works well for this. Press flat. 
6. Using a fabric pen or pencil, measure ½" down from the top seamed edge and draw a horizontal line. This will be the decorative stitching guide line. 
   
   NOTE: We are working on the right side of the fabric with our marking throughout this project. Make sure your fabric pen or pencil will easily wash or wipe away or will vanish with exposure to the air. The FriXion Pen we used vanishes with heat. 
7. Set up your machine for decorative stitching. Thread it with your chosen rayon thread in the top (we used a pale sage green) and a quality bobbin thread in the bobbin. Select a simple decorative stitch. We chose a triangle (Statin Stitch 09 on our Janome MC9900). We adjusted the width to 6.0 and the length to 2.5. 
   NOTE: You can use our embellishment pattern or design your own. If you choose your own, measure and test your stitch width and length to insure you will get the result you want.
8. Following the drawn line on the pocket, stitch across the pocket. 
   
9. Set the finished pocket aside.

Create the belt loops

1. Find the four 2½" x 4" strips. 
2. Press back the ends of each strip ½". 
3. Re-thread the machine with thread to match the exterior fabric in the top and bobbin, and edgestitch all these folds in place.
4. Press down the sides of each strip ½". Do not stitch these sides, simply leave them pressed. 
   

Assemble the exterior panels and place the loops and pocket

1. Find the four 10" x 13½" upper panels. Split the four pieces into two pairs and place them right sides together. Pin each pair together along one 13½" edge. If you using any type of directional fabric, make sure you are pinning and stitching what will become the center edge. 
2. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch this center seam for each pair. Press the seam allowance together and to the right.
3. Flip over each seamed panel and topstitch ¼" to the right of the seam. 
   
4. Press each panel flat and place them both right side up on your work surface.
5. Collect the exterior pocket and the four belt loops.
6. Place the pocket right side up on one exterior panel. The pocket should be centered side to side (4½" in from each raw side edge of the exterior panel) and the raw bottom each edge of the pocket should be flush with the raw bottom edge of the exterior panel. Pin the pocket in place along both sides. 
7. Place two belt loops above the pocket. The outer ends of the loops should be in line with the side edges of the pocket. The top edges of the loops should be 3" down from the top raw edge of the exterior panel. This position will leave 1½" between the bottom edges of the loops and the top of the pocket. Pin the loops in place.
   NOTE: We drew in a horizontal line at 3" down from the top raw edge of the exterior panel to insure our loops would be perfectly parallel. 
   
8. Edgestitch the loops in place along the top and bottom (remember, these were the sides you just pressed in when forming the loops).
9. Edgestitch the pocket in place along both sides. 
10. Place the remaining two loops in the exact same position on the remaining exterior panel. 
11. Find the two 19" x 6" accent base panels. If you wish, fuse the interfacing pieces to the wrong side of each panel, center the interfacing side-to-side and top-to-bottom. 
12. Place a base panel right sides together with each exterior panel. Pin in place along the bottom edge of each exterior panel.
    
13. Using a ½" seam allowance stitch each base panel seam. Press the seam allowance together and down towards the base panel. 
14. Flip each panel to the right side and topstitch ¼" from the seam within the base panel.
    
15. Place the front and back exterior panels right sides together. Pin along both sides.
16. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch both sides. Press the seam allowance together and toward the back panel. 
17. Turn the exterior (which is now a tube) right side out. As you did above with the center seams and accent panel seams, topstitch ¼" from each side seam within the back panel.
18. Create 6" box corners, which means your cut box will be half that size or 3".
    
19. Stitch across the bottom, using a ½" seam allowance, and finish boxing the corners. 
20. If you are new to this technique, check out our tutorial: How To Box Corners.
21. Turn the main bag right side out, push out the corners and press.
    

Create the embellished strap

1. Find the 7½" x 58" strip.
   NOTE: If you used a narrower-width fabric that required piecing, make sure your finished strip is 7½" x 58".
2. Place the strip right side up and flat on your work surface. 
3. Find the Strap End Template. 
4. Center the template on one end. You want at least ½" of fabric showing along the top and sides of the template. 
   
5. Using a fabric pen or pencil, trace around the template at both ends of the strap. And, using the template as a guide, draw in the center line. In the photo below, we slid down the template to show our tracing lines. 
   
6. Grab your longest clear ruler and fabric pen to draw in the final guidelines. 
7. Continue the solid outer lines from top to bottom; these are the strap cut lines. 
8. Continue the center line from top to bottom as a dashed line. 
9. On the right half of the strap, at both the top and bottom ends, draw in the ¼" seam lines – also as dashed lines, just like they're shown on the template. 
10. Finally, draw in all the embellishment guide lines as solid lines. Starting from the center dashed line, measure ¼" to the right and draw a vertical line the length of the strap. This is embellishment line #6. 
11. From this first line, measure ½" to the right and draw an another vertical line parallel with the first. This is embellishment line #5. 
12. Repeat to draw and additional FOUR parallel vertical lines with the same ½" spacing. These are embellishment lines #4, #3, #2 and #1. 
    
13. Embellishment line #1 should end up ¼" from the opposite dashed seam line. 
    
14. With all your embellishment guidelines in place, set up your machine for decorative stitching as you did above for the pocket stitching.
15. Re-thread the machine with your chosen rayon thread in the top (we used a pale sage green) and a quality bobbin thread. Select the same simple decorative stitch used on the pocket. We chose a triangle (Statin Stitch 09 on our Janome MC9900). We adjusted the width to 6.0 and the length to 2.5. 
    NOTE: As mentioned above, our steps and guideline measurements are based on our embellishment pattern. If you choose your own, re-measure and test your stitches on a scrap of fabric to confirm the spacing as well as the stitch length and width are to your liking. 
16. Layer stabilizer under the fabric strip.
17. We started with embellishment line #3, orienting the stitch so the point of the triangle is aiming toward the center of the strap. Following the drawn line, stitch from top to bottom. 
18. Begin and end all your stitching beyond the drawn lines of the Strap End Template.
    
19. Next, stitch embellishment line #6, which has the triangles pointing in the same direction as line #3. Following the drawn line, stitch from top to bottom.
20. If possible, use the Mirror Image function on your machine to flip the direction of the triangles. Stitch embellishment lines #4 and #1 with this new orientation. 
    
    NOTE: The Mirror Image function is a standard decorative stitching feature on many of the Janome models and we LOVE it! It allows you to create some very intricate patterns. If you do not have this function, you can flip the entire strap and stitch in the opposite direction. 
21. For the final two embellishment lines, we stitched flat cording in place with a wide zig zag.
22. Cut two 58" lengths of decorative cord. 
23. Re-thread the machine to coordinate with the cord. We used a metallic silver in the top and quality bobbin thread in the bobbin. We set our zig zig at a width of 6.0 and a length of 2.5. Test on a scrap to insure your width and length with work with your chosen cord. The swing of the zig zig should hit just outside the cord. 
24. We started on embellishment line #5.
    
25. You don't need to pin the cording in place; you can simply hold it with your finger, centering it over the drawn line. Just go slowly and stop (with the needle in the down position) to re-adjust as necessary. Stitch down the cording from top to bottom.
26. Repeat to stitch cording in place down the length of embellishment line #2.
27. Here's a look at our finished embellishment. We folded the fabric so you could see both ends. 
    
28. Remove the stabilizer if you'd like; we left ours in place as it will be hidden between the layers and offers a bit of extra stability to the fabric. However, if you use a heavy fabric, such as the canvas we chose, it is not necessary.
29. Trim both ends of the strap along the drawn cut lines (the solid lines, not the dashed lines. Don't trim down the sides.
    
30. Fold the strap in half along the center dashed fold line, right sides together, sandwiching the stitching between the layers. 
31. Using your long clear ruler and fabric pen, draw a final guideline. This will be your stitching line. 
32. Measure ¼" to the right of the last line of decorative stitching. The line should run from top to bottom.
    
33. Re-thread the machine with thread to match the fabric in the top and bobbin. 
34. Using a ¼" seam allowance, stitch along the angled ends. Pivot and stitch down the long side, following your guideline. Pivot at the angles of the ends, stitching with the same ¼" seam allowance across this end. Leave a 2-3" opening along the long side seam for turning. 
    NOTE: With such a long and narrow tube, it is easier to turn if your leave TWO OPENINGS: one near each end. This gives you better access to get in and push out all the corners completely.
35. Trim back the angled ends, then trim the side seam allowance to approximately ¼".
    
36. Turn the strap right side out through the opening(s). Push out the corners so they are nice and sharp. Press in the raw edges at the opening(s) so they are flush with the sewn seam. Press the entire strap flat.
    
37. Hand stitch the opening(s) closed.
    

Make the lining

1. Find the 11" x 16" lining pocket panel and the 10" x 7½" piece of interfacing. 
2. Fold the pocket panel in half, wrong sides together, so it is now 11" x 8". Press to set a center crease. 
3. Open out the panel, wrong side up, so the crease line is visible.
4. Center the interfacing on one half of the pocket panel. It should be positioned so one edge is aligned with the center crease. There should then be ½" of fabric showing on the remaining three sides. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse in place.
   
5. Fold the pocket in half, right sides together, matching all the raw edges. Pin in place along both sides and across the bottom.
6. Using a ½" seam allowance, sew both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners and leaving a 3” opening along the bottom for turning. Remember to lock the seam on either side of the opening. Clip the corners. 
   
7. Turn the pocket right side out through the bottom opening. Push out the corners so they are nice and sharp. Fold in the raw edges at the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam. Press the pocket flat.
8. Find one of the two lining panels. Place it right side up on your work surface. Position the pocket on the lining piece. It should sit 4" up from the bottom raw edge of the lining panel and be centered side to side.  
9. Pin the pocket in place along both sides and across the bottom.
   
10. Edgestitch the pocket in place along both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners. This closes the opening in the pocket used for turning right side out. 
11. Place the two lining panels right sides together, sandwiching the pocket between the layers. Pin along both sides and across the bottom.
12. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners.
13. As you did for the exterior bag, create 6" box corners, which means your corner box will be half that size or 3".
    
14. As mentioned above, if you are new to this technique, check out our tutorial: How To Box Corners.
15. Leave the lining wrong side out.

Assemble the exterior and the lining

1. Find the exterior bag. It should still be right side out. Fold down the top raw edge ½" all around and press.
   
2. Find the lining; it should still be wrong side out.
3. Slip the lining inside the exterior so the two bags are now wrong sides together. The lining pocket should be against the back panel (the non-pocket panel) of the exterior.
4. Slip the raw edge of the lining under the folded top edge of the exterior.
   
5. Fold the top edge back down, then fold down an additional ½" and pin in place all around. 
   
6. Re-thread the machine with the decorative stitching thread (sage green in our sample) in the top and thread to match the exterior fabric in the bobbin. 
7. Set up the machine as above for the triangle satin stitch (or the stitch you have chosen and used above).
8. Turn the bag inside out so you can more easily stitch from the exterior side.
9. Starting at a side seam, run the decorative stitch all around the top of of the bag, securing the top hem in place and adding the final bit of thread embellishment. The distance from the top of the bag may vary slightly depending on which stitch you choose. The flat side of our triangle stitch was ½" down from the top folded edge. 
   

Tassels

1. Find the twisted cord. Cut two 10" lengths. 
   
2. Untwist one length. You now have two individual lengths wrapped with the silky rayon thread. 
   
3. Working with one length at a time, pinch the cord in the center and fold it in half. Hold on to the center of the cord with one hand, and with the other hand, begin unwrapping the thread to reveal the soft polyester strands at the core. The thread pulls away from the core quite easily.
   
4. Work from both ends up towards the center. Leave about 1" at the center still wrapped. 
   
5. Repeat to unwrap the other length in this first pair. 
6. Find one of the 1" D-rings. 

One of the best things about the holidays is the chance to get together with family and friends around a beautiful table filled with traditional dishes. Maybe you'll be passing around Nana's famous baked ham, Aunt Sheila's warm apple-cranberry crisp, or your own delicious cornbread stuffing. If your culinary talents are on-the-go from gathering to gathering this season, you need a carrier that can keep your special dish toasty on the way there. Our wrap-it-up design includes a handy loop to clip a pot holder and an inside pocket for a serving utensil. This would make a wonderful present for the foodies on your gift list. Make the pretty carrier and matching mitt, then wrap up a new baking pan you've filled with yummy homemade treats! 

Our carrier is made for a standard 9" x 13" covered baking pan. You'll want to measure your particular casserole dish and adjust the four "fabric wings" to fit. We noticed many newer dishes have large molded handles. This would definitely be something you'd need to account for, especially for the short bottom and long top wings.

We give you the basic sizing and all the steps; all you need to do is adjust to best fit your pan(s). As we often suggest, lay things out on paper first and/or make a prototype in muslin or another inexpensive fabric from your scrap bin. Sometimes, we even make mini-samples out of paper towels to ensure our dimensions are correct.

We originally used two fabrics (one print and one solid) from the Simple Marks collection by Malka Dudrawsky for Moda Fabrics. This is an older collection and can be hard to find. As an alternative, we found two options at Hawthorne Threads. The first includes a print from the Handcrafted collection by Alison Glass for Andover Fabrics paired with a FreeSpirit Designer Solid.

A second option has a festive holiday feel, but not so specific that it couldn't be used anytime of the year. Both prints are from the Dowry collection by Anna Maria Horner for FreeSpirit Fabrics. 

To make a matching hotpad as we show in our sample photos, try our Quilted Oven Mitt or Appliquéd Oven Mitt. Both include a downloadable pattern. 

Sewing Tools You Need

• Sewing Machine and standard presser foot
• Quarter Inch Seam foot, optional for pocket topstitching
• The Janome Skyline S7, which we recommend above, has the built-in AcuFeed™ Flex Fabric Feeding System; if you do not have this feature, a Walking or Even Feed foot is recommended for the thicker layers and quilting

Fabric and Other Supplies

• 1¼ yards of 44"+ wide quilting weight cotton fabric (we recommend a print) for the carrier's exterior and pocket
• 1¼ yards of 44"+ wide quilting weight cotton fabric (we recommend a solid) for the carrier's interior, binding, and carabiner loop
• 1¼ yards of 45" wide thermal batting: we used Insul-Bright by The Warm Company
• ¼ yard of 20"+ wide mid-weight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon Décor Bond
• ½ yard of ⅝" sew-in Velcro®; we used black
• 2 yards of 1" wide poly or cotton webbing: we used 1" cotton webbing in a natural color
  NOTE: Cotton webbing is lovely and soft but can be hard to butt together and stitch because of its tendency to fray; polyester webbing is harder to stitch through, but there is no fraying.
• ONE 2" carabiner (optional, to hook oven mitt or hot pad in place)
• All purpose thread to match fabrics (both front and back) as well as thread to match the webbing for the handle
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Iron and ironing board
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Tape measure
• Seam gauge 
• Seam ripper
• Straight pins
• Painter's tape for cutting and stitching guides (optional)

Getting Started

1. From the fabric for the exterior and pocket, cut the following:
   ONE 29" high x 35" wide rectangle 
   ONE 8" high x 6" wide rectangle for the pocket
2. From the fabric for the interior, binding and loop, cut the following:
   ONE 29" high x 35" wide rectangle 
   ONE 11" x 3" strip for the binding
   ONE 4" x 1¼" strip for the loop
3. From the insulated fleece, cut ONE 29" x 35" rectangle.
4. From the medium-weight fusible interfacing, cut the following:
   ONE 7" x 2½" strip
   ONE 10" x 2" strip
5. Pull the Velcro® apart and cut as follows:
   TWO 3" lengths of the loop side (the soft side)
   FOUR 3" lengths of the hook side (the rough side)
   ONE 9½" length of the loop side (the soft side)
6. Cut the webbing into ONE 64" length.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Cutting the corner notches

1. Place the interior rectangle right side down and flat on your work surface.
2. Place the exterior rectangle right side down on top of the interior piece. Align all four raw edges of both layers.
3. Fold both pieces in half lengthwise so they now measure 35" x 14½" and the interior piece now faces right side up. Make sure your layers are still even and laying together nice and flat.
   
4. Mark the first corner cut. It should measure 9" up from the bottom raw edge and 7" in from the side raw edge. Make sure your measurements come together at a perfect right angle (a 90˚angle). You can draw your lines with a fabric pen or pencil, or mark with painter's tape as a cutting guide as we did.
   
5. Cut out the corner notch through all the layers, keeping your cut lines clean and smooth. We used a rotary cutter. 
   
6. Flip the fabric to cut the opposite corner notch. This notch should also measure 9" from the bottom edge, but should be 13" in from the side edge. Again, make sure you have an accurate 90˚ angle. 
   
7. When unfolded and laid flat, you should have a cross with two corners that are 9" x 7" and two corners that are 9" x 13".
   
8. Repeat to cut matching corner notches from the 29" x 35" rectangle of insulated fleece.

Layering and quilting the main front and back pieces

1. Place the thermal batting right side down (shiny side down) on your work surface.
2. Place the exterior fabric right side up on top of it.
3. Place the interior fabric right side down on top of everything. 
4. You now have a three layer quilt sandwich. 
   
5. Pin in place all around the "cross," leaving the longest 11" end open for turning (the 11" end of the 11" x 13" arm of the cross).
6. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch all around, pivoting at each corner, and locking your seam at the beginning and end. Remember, that one 11" end is completely un-sewn.
7. Trim back the seam allowance to approximately ¼" and cut in diagonally at each corner. If you are new to this technique, check out our tutorial on sewing and cutting corners.
   
8. Turn the piece right side out through the open end and press well.
9. Starting at one 15" end of the cross, mark quilting lines at one inch intervals across the entire piece. You can draw in the lines with a fabric pen or pencil (make sure it is one that will wipe away or vanish with exposure to air as you are working on the right side of the fabric). You could also use painter's tape as guide lines (the favorite method of our seamstress, Aimee for this project). Or, if you have a Walking foot with a Quilt Bar, you could use that to maintain an even distance. 
   
10. For more tips and techniques on straight line quilting, you might want to read our tutorial from our friend, and extraordinary quilter, Heather Jones.
11. You want the quilting lines to blend in to the fabric, so be sure to thread your machine with thread to match the exterior fabric in the top and the interior fabric in the bobbin. We had coordinating fabrics and so used turquoise thread in both the top and bobbin. 
12. Lengthen the stitch and sew along each drawn guideline. 
13. Set your pretty quilted body aside. 
    

Pocket

1. Find the 8" x 6" pocket piece and the 2½" x 7" interfacing strip.
2. Fold the 8" x 6" piece in half right sides together so it is now 8" x 3". 
3. Unfold wrong side up so the crease line is visible. Place the interfacing along the crease line and centered end to end. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse in place. 
4. Refold the pocket right sides together. Pin along both 3" ends and the 8" raw edge, leaving an approximate 2"-3" opening along this 8" side for turning.
5. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch along both 3" ends and the 8" side, pivoting at the corners. Remember to lock your seam at either side of the approximate 2"-3" opening. Clip the corners. Press the seam.
6. Turn the pocket right side out through the opening. Push out the corners so they are nice and sharp. A chopstick or long knitting needle works well for this.
7. Fold in the raw edges of the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam. Press flat.
8. Place the quilted carrier body right side up on your work surface with the long end of the cross to the left, the short end of the cross to the right, and the upper and lower wings in the middle. The pocket should be placed on the upper wing of the cross with the open end of the pocket facing towards the long end. The bottom of the pocket should be 2" in from the right edge, and the outer edge of the pocket should be 2¼" down from the top edge of the wing.
9. Pin the pocket in place along both its sides and across the bottom.
10. Edgestitch the pocket in place along both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners and with a generous backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam, ie. at the pocket top. This is a stress point for the pocket and it's smart to secure the seam well. We used our Janome Quarter Inch foot to keep a precise seam. 
    .

Binding and loop

1. Find the 11" x 3" binding strip and the 10" x 2" interfacing strip. Center the interfacing side to side and top to bottom on the wrong side of the binding strip. You should have ½" of fabric showing all around. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing in place.
2. Fold the strip in half lengthwise and press lightly to set a long center crease. Unfold, wrong side up. 
3. Fold back each 3" end ½" and press well. Fold back each long side (now 10" in length) ½" and press well. 
4. Flip over so the folded piece is now right side up and the center crease line is visible. All the edges are still folded back.
5. Find the 9½" length of Velcro® loop. Center it within one half of the flat binding strip between the center crease line and one outside folded edge. It should also be centered end to end. 
6. Pin the Velcro® strip in place. You can also use a fusible seam tape or a spray adhesive to lightly hold the strip in place.
7. Thread your machine with thread to match the Velcro® in the top and thread to match the interior fabric in the bobbin. We had black in the top and turquoise in the bobbin. 
8. Edgestitch the Velcro® in place along all four sides. 
9. Re-fold the binding strip wrong sides together so all the folded edges align. Slip the binding over the raw edges of the open end of the carrier (the end you used for turning right side out). The side with the Velcro® should be on the inside. Pin in place. 
   
10. Rethread your machine with thread to match the binding fabric in the top and bobbin.
11. Find the 4" x 1¼" loop piece.
12. Fold the loop in half wrong sides together so it is now 4" x ⅝" and press. 
13. Open it back up, wrong side up, so the center crease is visible. Fold in each long side to meet in the middle along the center crease. Press. Fold in half along the original crease line so the folded edges align and press again. Pin in place.
14. Edgestitch along the folded edges to secure. Both ends are raw. 
15. Fold this thin loop in half, aligning the raw edges. 
16. Slip the raw ends under the binding on the exterior of the carrier. The loop should be in the exact center of the binding. Pin in place.
17. Edgestitch across both ends of the binding and all along its bottom edge. Go slowly and make sure you are catching both sides of the binding with your stitching. This seam also secures the loop.
    

Position the Velcro®

1. Find the 3" lengths of Velcro®. You should have two loop lengths and four hook lengths. 
2. Place the carrier body right side up and flat on your work surface. It should be the same direction as it was when you placed the pocket, with the long end to the left, the short end to the right and the "wings" top and bottom in the middle. 
3. Find the four lengths of hook (the rough side).
4. Position one in each corner of the bottom middle wing, and one in each corner of the short end. The strip should be positioned perpendicular to the quilting lines on the middle wing and parallel to the stitching on the end. Position the strip 1¼" in from the side and ½" up from the bottom. 
   
5. Re-thread your machine with thread to match the Velcro® in the top and thread to match the fabric in the bobbin. 
6. Pin or fuse each piece of Velcro® in place, then edgestitch around all four sides. 
7. Flip over the carrier to place the last two lengths of Velcro®. They go on the inside of the wing opposite the wing to which you just attached the hook lengths. 
8. As above, the strips run perpendicular to the quilting stitching and are 1¼" from the side and ½" up from the bottom. Edgestitch in place as above. 
   NOTE: This can be a bit of a brain teaser because your are working in 3-D. Take a look at the wrapping photo series above in the introduction, which should help clarify the Velcro® positioning. 
   

The webbing handle

1. Find the 64" length of webbing. Make a loop, butting the raw ends together. Make sure there are no twists and turns in your loop.
2. Using a very tight zig zag stitch, attach the ends. We stitched across the joint three times. 
   
3. Place the finished carrier right side up on your work surface. 
4. Fold the handle so the seam is at one end. Place a pin at the opposite folded end. 
5. Unfold and center the handle across the middle of the carrier. It should be positioned so the zig zag seam and the opposite center pin point (the point you marked above when you folded the handle) are both aligned with the center quilting line. The outer edge of the webbing should be 3" in from the edge of the carrier. Pin the loop in place from the center point outwards, stopping 1" beyond each corner. This end point should align with a line of quilting. 
   
6. Here is a close up view of the positioning of one corner.
   
7. Re-thread your machine with thread to match the webbing in the top and thread to match the interior fabric in the bobbin. 
8. Edgestitch each side of the handle in place, starting and stopping at the one-inch-beyond pin points. Add a box stitch at the beginning and end to reinforce. In the illustration below, we've shown the handle stitching in black so you can see the pattern.
   

Today's casual bag features two generous pleated pockets bound with Fold Over Elastic by Dritz (FOE). One of the things we love about FOE is the ability to use it as a binding. You get three benefits in one: color, stretch and finish. There's a built-in crease line down the center that allows easy and accurate folding. The pockets not only look great, they're also super functional – with expandable tops that make dropping in items easy, even one-handed. In addition, the entire top of the bag is also finished with FOE, using it as a flat binding. Plus, the pretty patterns on the Drtiz FOE are woven in, not printed on, and they're fade resistant and colorfast. These good looks will last!

If you haven't experimented recently with elastics, you might still lump them into the "stiff and scratchy" category. Not the Dritz® Fashion Elastic. This stuff is soft and stretchy, yet substantial enough to add stability. Most solids are ⅝" (folding over to 5/16") x 1 yard and the patterns range from ½  (folding over to ¼") to 1" (folding over to ½") x 1 yard. Both are fully machine washable and dryable. We found a great selection of all the new patterns (from graphics to tie-dye to sports themes and more) at Jo-Ann Stores.

The bag finishes at approximately 15" tall x 12" wide with 2" sides and base.

We originally used two fabrics from the Organic Forest collection by Amy Butler. This great collection sold out quickly last Fall and can be hard to find. We were able to find our pretty picks still available at online retailer, Quilt Home, and list those links below. But because of the scarcity, we also selected a pretty new pair from the Cocoon collection by Valori Wells. Both fabrics as well as coordinating fold-over elastic (we like Animal Skin Blrown/Tan for this new combo) are available at Fabric.com.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any sewing machine (we recommend the Janome 4120QDC)

Fabric and Other Supplies

• ONE package of Dritz® Fold-Over Elastic
• ¾ yard of 44-45" wide cotton fabric for the large exterior panels front and back, the large exterior pocket and the front of the strap and tab; we used Dew in Plum from the Organic Forest collection by Amy Butler for Rowan Fabrics 
• 1 yard of 44-45" wide cotton fabric for the small exterior panels front and back, the small exterior pocket, the back of the strap and tab, and the lining and lining pocket; we used Fiddleheads in Amber from the Organic Forest collection by Amy Butler for Rowan Fabrics 
• TWO 1½" Dritz D-rings
• ¾ yard of 45" wide medium-weight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon 809 Décor Bond®
• All-purpose thread to match fabric and elastic
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Iron and ironing board
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Seam gauge
• Seam ripper
• Straight pins

Getting Started 

1. From the Fold-Over Elastic, cut the following:
   ONE 8" length 
   ONE 6" length
   Leave the remaining length intact; you'll trim it later to exactly match the top opening of your bag
2. From the fabric for the large exterior panels front and back, the large exterior pocket and the front of the strap and tab, cut the following:
   TWO 16½" high x 8" wide rectangles for the exterior panels
   ONE 16" high x 11" wide rectangle for the large exterior pocket
   ONE 2" x WOF (width of fabric - 44" in our sample) strip for the front of the strap
   ONE 2" x 9" strip for the front of the strap tab
3. From the fabric or the small exterior panels front and back, the small exterior pocket, the back of the strap and tab, and the lining and lining pocket, cut the following:
   TWO 16½" high x 6" wide rectangles for the exterior panels
   ONE 11" high x 8" wide rectangle for the small exterior pocket
   TWO 16½" high x 13" wide rectangles for the lining
   ONE 15" high x 8" wide rectangle for the lining pocket
   ONE 2" x WOF strip for the back of the strap
   ONE 2" x 9" strip for the back of the strap tab
4. From the interfacing, cut the following:
   TWO 16" x 12" rectangles
   ONE 7" x 7" square
   ONE 1½" x 43" strip
   ONE 1½" x 8" strip

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Lining

1. Find the 15" x 8" lining pocket and the 7" x 7" interfacing square.
2. Fold the pocket in half, wrong sides together, so it is 7½" x 8", and press to set a crease.
3. Unfold wrong side up so the crease line is visible. Center the interfacing square on the bottom half so one edge is aligning along the center crease with ½" of fabric showing all around. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse in place.
   
4. Fold the interfaced panel in half, right sides together, along the original crease line. Pin along both sides and across the bottom, leaving an approximate 3" opening along the bottom for turning.
5. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch around all sides, pivoting at the corners. Your seam should run right along the edge of the interfacing. Remember to lock your seam on either side of the 3" opening. 
   
6. Clip the corners and press open the seam allowance. Turn right side out. Push out the corners so they are nice and sharp. A chopstick or long knitting needle works well for this.
7. Fold in the raw edges of the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam. Press well. 
8. Find the two 16½" x 13" lining panels.
9. Place one panel right side up and flat on your work surface. Measure to find the exact center of the panel. 
10. Pin the pocket in place on the right side of the lining panel. Remember, the folded edge is the pocket top. The pocket should be centered side to side and the bottom edge of the pocket should be 6" up from the bottom raw edge of the fabric panel. Pin in place.
    
11. Edgestitch the pocket in place along both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners and with a generous backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam, ie. at the pocket top. This is a stress point for the pocket and it's smart to secure the seam well. This edgestitching closes the opening used for turning.
    
12. Place the two lining pieces right sides together, sandwiching the pocket between the layers. Pin in place along both sides and across the bottom.
13. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch along both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners.
14. Our bag is designed to have 2" sides and base. To create this width, we figured our corners at 1". 
15. Measure and mark each corner. Cut out the 1" corner squares along your drawn lines.
16. Press open all the seams. 
17. Flatten the corner.
18. Double stitch the corner
    
19. Repeat to create the opposite boxed corner. Set the lining aside.
    NOTE: If you are new to boxed corners, check out our tutorial for step-by-step instructions.

Front Pockets

1. Find the two exterior pocket pieces: the 16" x 11" large pocket and the 11" x 8" small pocket. 
2. Fold each in half, wrong sides together so they are now 8" x 11" and 5½" x 8". Press well. The folded edge will be thebottom of each pocket.
   
3. Find the 8" and 6" lengths of Dritz® Fold-Over Elastic (FOE). The 8" is for the large pocket, the 6" is for the small pocket.
   
4. There is a center line woven into the design of the FOE. This line will help you fold the elastic exactly in half so you can use it as a binding for the top of the pocket. 
5. Fold the FOE in half, and slip it over the raw edges of the pocket at the end of one side, pin in place. Repeat, to pin the opposite end of the FOE over the opposite edge of the pocket. The Dritz® Fold-Over Elastic is very soft and easy to work with; it's even a little grippy. Over the short distance of our pockets, we didn't need to use any additional pins in between the two at the ends, but feel free to add a few more for your own comfort level.
   
6. Starting at one end, slip the pocket under the presser foot and drop the needle to help hold the layers in place. Gently stretch the elastic, pulling it until the stretched length of the elastic allows the fabric to lay flat. Check again to make sure the elastic is correctly folded over the top raw edges of the pocket. Begin stitching, stretching as you go. You'll need to stop every so often, always with the needle in the down position so things don't shift, and re-stretch. Stitch in this manner across the top of each pocket. Each pocket will now be softly gathered across its top edge.
   
7. Set the pockets aside.

Fuse the exterior panels 

1. Find the two 16½" x 8" exterior panels and the two 16" x 12" interfacing panels.
2. Place a fabric panel right side down on your ironing board. Place an interfacing panel on the fabric (fusing side down). Align the top edge of the fabric with the interfacing, but shift the interfacing so there is ½" of fabric showing along the bottom and the outer side. There will be a large portion of the interfacing extending beyond the fabric on the opposite side.
   
3. Following manufacturer's directions, fuse the interfacing to the fabric. Be careful with your iron so you are only fusing onto the fabric.
4. Flip over and press the fabric panel from the right side to make sure you have good adhesion. 
   
5. Repeat with the remaining exterior panel and the remaining interfacing panel. 

Attach the front pockets and complete the front and back

1. Find the large pocket and the front fused panel. Place the panel right side up. 
2. Place the pocket on the panel. The sides of the pocket should be flush with the sides of the fabric panel, and the bottom of the pocket should be 1¾" up from the bottom raw edge of the fabric panel. 
3. To take up the excess fabric at the bottom of the pocket, create an approximate 2½" pleat at the bottom center of the pocket. To do this, simply find the center of the pocket, measure 1¼" to the left and to the right of center and mark both points with a pin. Tuck under the pocket's excess fabric at both of these marked points until the bottom of the pocket lays flat against the fabric panel. Pin in place. Adjust as needed to make sure your pleat is centered.
   
4. Edgestitch the pocket in place, along both sides and across the bottom. Remember to pivot at the corners. The bottom stitching line will be visible, so be careful to keep your seam nice and straight. You may want to lengthen your stitch.
5. Find one of the 16½" x 6" exterior panels and the remaining pocket (the small pocket). Attach the pocket to the panel, following the same steps as above. The only difference is the pleat on this pocket will be only 2" rather than 2½".
   
6. Find both front sections with the pockets stitched in place.
   
7. Place the narrow panel over the wide panel, sandwiching the pockets in between the layers and aligning the inside raw edges. That extra interfacing is still extending to the right. Pin in place through all the layers.
   
8. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch the center seam through all the layers (including the interfacing). Backstitch sligthly when you stitch over the pocket tops, giving this stress point some extra strength. 
   
9. Fold out the narrow panel over the interfacing and smooth flat. Iron to fuse the the fabric to the interfacing (following manufacturer's instructions).
   NOTE: Why did we choose this unusual fusing method? It allows our vertical seam to lay very flat without a bulky multi-layer seam allowance. This is a much better look when you have a seam that will be prominent on the face of a bag.
10. Find the remaining narrow panel. Following the same steps, stitch the center seams, then fold out and fuse.
    

Make and place the strap and strap tab

1. Find both the strap and strap tab fabric strips and the corresponding interfacing strips. 
2. Place both sets of the fabric strips right sides together. Pin along one long side.
3. Using a ¼" seam allowance, stitch along the one long side.
4. Press open, pressing the seam allowance together and to one side. 
   
5. Slip the interfacing up against the seam, centering it side to side and making sure there is an even ¼" of fabric showing along the long raw edge. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing in place.
   
6. Press back the long raw edge of the side to which you adhered the interfacing ¼". You are pressing it over the interfacing. Press back both short ends (all the way across both pieces).
   
7. Fold the strap right sides together again along the seam line, aligning the folded edges on the ends. Press.
8. Fold in the remaining long raw edge of the opposite fabric so it aligns perfectly with the already folded edge. Press again and pin in place. You should now have a 1½" strap tab with finished folded edges on all sides.
9. Edgestitch around all four sides, pivoting at the corners.
   
10. These steps are exactly the same for both the strap and the strap tab.
11. Find the two D-rings. Slip one end of the strap tab through both rings and fold it back on itself 1". Stitch across to secure.
    
    NOTE: Remember, in our design, the front of the strap is the fabric that matches the wide exterior panel. The back of the strap is the fabric that matches the narrow exterior panel and the lining. Keep track of this so you fold back the strap tab with the correct side facing out. 
12. Find the two finished exterior panels.
    
13. On the front panel (the panel with the pockets) pin the strap tab within the narrow panel. It should be placed 1" in from side raw edge and the bottom end of the strap tab should be 4" down from the top raw edge. Pin in place.
    
14. Place one end of the long strap on the back panel in exactly the same position: within the narrow panel, 1" in from the side, and 4" down from the top.
    
15. Stitch both ends in place with a 2" "X-Box."
    NOTE: If you are new to this technique, check out our tutorial: How To Sew A Perfect "X" Box.
    

Final assembly

1. Place the front and back exterior panels right sides together, aligning the sides and bottom. Pin in place. Pull the straps up through the top opening to keep them out of the way of the seam. 
2. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch along both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners. 
   
3. Following the same steps as above for the lining, create 2" box corners.
   
4. Turn the bag right side out. Find the lining, it would still be wrong side out. 
5. Slip the lining inside the exterior bag so the two bags are now wrong sides together. Align all the seams and the bottom corners. Make sure the strap and strap tab are folded down out of the way of the top seam.
6. Pin around the entire top of the bag.
   
7. Find the remaining length of Dritz® Fold-Over Elastic. You will use this to bind the top, similarly as you did for the pockets but without the stretch. 
8. We found it was a bit easier to stitch the elastic in place working with the bag inside out. So with the top still pinned, turn the whole shootin' match wrong side out. 
9. Starting at the point right above where the long strap is stitched in place, wrap the FOE over the raw edges of the bag/lining. Just as you did with the pocket, use the center line that is woven into the FOE as your center guide line. Wrap and pin around the entire top of the bag. When you come back around to your starting point (behind the strap) leave the tail long.
10. As with the pockets, if you are a more experienced sewer, you may find you don't really need a lot of pins. The elastic in soft and grippy; it's easy to simply wrap as you go. 
11. Stitch all the way around the top, keeping your seam close to the bottom edge of the elastic binding. Go slowly and carefully, making sure you are catching both the front and back of the binding. Stop and lock your seam just before you stitch over your starting point. 
    
12. Remove the bag from the machine and carefully trim back the excess elastic so the two ends butt together.
13. Make one final tiny zag zag seam vertically across where the ends butt together to secure and prevent any raveling. If you started in the right place as described above, this seam will be hidden behind the strap.
    
14. Slip the free end of the long strap through the top of the D-Rings and adjust for your best fit.  

Yesterday was the first day of Standard Time across most of North America. We got an extra hour of sleep, but in exchange for this bonus snooze time, we are now faced with several months of ever-encroaching darkness. It's the perfect time for a bag with built-in reflective capabilities, which kicks off our new "Did it with Dritz" week. This high-visibility mini-tote is great for kids who are often headed to school and back home in the dark. See how we used four different nifty notions from Dritz.

This cute little bag is made from easy-to-sew, pre-quilted material; no need for a lining or any extra batting or interfacing. We added Dritz Fold-Over Elastic to bind all the raw edges, and fashioned our cool clasp from a key fob and snap (see how easy it is below). Two widths of Dritz Fusible Reflective Ribbon make sure the wearer stands out in street lights and headlights.

Although designed with kids in mind, there's no reason it couldn't be used for adults as well. The cross body strap might need to be lengthened, but otherwise, it would be a great mini tote for anyone.

A big thanks to our friends at Dritz for sponsoring the entire week. Have you been over to see the new Dritz website? They've streamlined it, updated it, and completely revamped how you find their products. Dritz has so many different notions – literally thousands of them – you could fill a good size store with just their products. But on the new site, they've done a great job of figuring out how customers like to find things. And that's visually.

Let's say you want to look at all your different options in fabric pens. Once you've chosen your major category ("Sewing" in this case), you quickly see the Marking section you're looking for. In about three clicks you're looking at a dozen kinds of fabric markers, with the choice to click on each for more details. We've visited many, many notions sites with only a fraction of the selection of products, and the new Dritz.com really is much easier to navigate.

Of course, once you've found what you want, you need to know where to get it. They have a complete store locator, showing where you can buy their products from local stores, national chains, and online retailers.

Our bag finishes at approximately 10" high x 8" wide with a 2" base and sides and 33" cross-body strap.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome Skyline S5)
• Quarter Inch Seam foot (optional)
• Overedge foot (optional)

Fabric and Other Supplies

• ½ yard of 44"+ wide double-sided, pre-quilted nylon fabric or similar; we used a pre-quilted double-faced fabric in rip stop nylon, purchased locally
  NOTE: We recommend the double-face quilting fabric because it eliminates the need for a lining, and we chose the nylon option for its water-resistant benefit. However, other tough, medium weight fabrics could also work, such as canvas or heavy twill. 
• ONE package (you need 1¼ yards) of Dritz 1" Fold-Over Elastic; we used red Dritz Fold Over elastic from the Dritz Babyville division. 
  NOTE: Many colors and design options are available in Babyville as well as in the standard Dritz carded Fold-Over Elastic.
• ONE package of Dritz Reflective Ribbon, which contains one yard each of 2" ribbon, ¾" ribbon and ⅜" – for this project you will use the ¾" and ⅜" ribbon and can save the 2" for future projects.
• ONE Dritz Key Fob Hardware set
• ONE Dritz size 16 (1.1 cm) metal snap
• ONE SET of Dritz Snap Pliers
• ⅓ yard of ⅝" grosgrain ribbon; we used black, purchased locally
• 1¼ yards of 1" wide polyester webbing; we used black, purchased locally
• ⅓ yard of ¾" wide polyester webbing; we used black, purchased locally 
• All purpose thread to match fabric, binding and webbing
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Seam gauge
• Seam ripper
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Iron and ironing board
• Pressing cloth
• Straight pins or clips - we recommend, and used, the Dritz Getta Grip&

Quintessential: representing the most perfect or typical example of a quality or class. We may be blowin' our own horn a bit here, but we absolutely love this plaid tote, and we really believe it has all the traits needed to rocket to the top of the charts for cool and classic totes. We found our perfect plaid at Fabric.com. It's reminiscent of a vintage Pendleton® "49'er" jacket. We also show you its companion plaid in shades of pink. Precision cutting – both straight and on the bias, piping accents, and corded handles are just a few of the styling particulars that give our tote its iconic appeal.

We've pictured the tote relaxing in countryside locales as well as shopping in the urban hustle. It obviously has the fashion muscle to look great in any situation. 

Thanks to our easy instructions, classic does not automatically mean complex. Though we recommend reading through the instructions carefully before beginning, and taking care with the stitching details, we still feel the project is appropriate for even newer sewers. 

In additional to this beautiful blue and tan palette, this same plaid is available in a pink and camel combination.

The tote finishes at approximately 17" high x 18" wide x 5" deep with an approximate 8" handle loop.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Sewing Machine and standard presser foot
• Zipper foot
• Quarter Inch Seam foot (optional, but good for precision seaming)

Fabric and Other Supplies

• 2 yards of 54"+ heavy-weight wool-style plaid for the exterior; we used 54" Mirage in Stillwater (52% cotton/48% polyester) from the Pennington Plaid I collection by Kaslen Home Decor
  NOTE: The yardage recommendation above is based on our plaid selection and includes extra for the pattern matching and bias cutting for the base, flap and handles.
• 1 yard of 44"+ wide quilting-weight cotton for the lining; we used 44" Kona Cotton in Parchment 
• 1½ yards of 45"+ wide medium weight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon Décor Bond
• 1½ yards of 20" wide lightweight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon ShirTailor
• 1 yard of 1½" piping cord** (also called welt); we use Conso cotton piping in a size #8, purchased locally
  NOTE: **At these larger sizes, we found two distinctly different sizing methods. Some companies used the diameter of the cut end, which is this case is ½". Others used the circumference, which for our sample is 1½". 
• 1 yard of ¼" boning - this is optional, but is what allows the handles to stand up on their own; we used Dritz ¼" white boning
• TWO packages (3 yards) of ½" inch piping in a coordinating accent color; we used Wrights Maxi Piping in Black
• ONE 9" standard zipper to match the lining fabric; we used a tan polyester zipper, purchased locally
• ONE magnetic purse snap; we used a Clover ¾" Snap in Antique Gold (#0334117) from Fabric.com
• All purpose thread to match fabric
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Iron and ironing board
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Tape measure
• Seam gauge
• Seam ripper
• Straight pins
• Hand sewing needle

Getting Started

1. From the plaid for the exterior, precisely fussy cut all the pieces. We've included an illustration above, which shows you our cutting plan. Remember, not all plaids are perfectly square. Pick your center point, then always measure both horizontally and vertically to both sides to plan your cut. 
   
2. When cutting the pieces on the bias, you will also need to be very careful with your measuring; you cannot simply measure through the center of the plaid assuming it is square and the diagonal is a perfect 45˚. It is most important to make sure the "triangle" that will be at the center front of the bias cut base section perfectly aligns with the straight plaid section directly above it. On our bag drawing above, you can see how we lined up a blue "triangle" of plaid with a tan "square" of plaid.
   
3. The exterior cuts are as follows:
   TWO 10" high x 24" wide rectangles for the exterior top
   TWO 5" high x 24" wide strips for the facing of the lining
   TWO 11½" high x 24" wide rectangles, on the bias, for the exterior base
   ONE 10½" high x 5" wide rectangle, on the bias, for the flap
   
   TWO 3½" high x 19" wide strips, on the bias, for the handles
   
4. From the fabric for the lining, cut the following:
   TWO 16½" x 24" rectangles for the main lining
   ONE 11" x 16" rectangle for the lining pocket
   ONE 5" x 10½" strip, on the bias, for the flap lining
   NOTE: We recommend also cutting the flap lining on the bias so it curves just as nicely as the exterior plaid.
5. From the medium weight fusible interfacing, cut the following:
   TWO 10" x 24" rectangles
   TWO 11½" x 24" rectangles
   TWO 5" x 24" rectangles
   ONE 10½" x 5" rectangle
6. From the lightweight fusible, cut TWO 16½" x 24" rectangles.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Fusing

1. The amount of interfacing needed is somewhat up to your personal preference and the weight of the plaid your select. 
2. For our sample we followed manufacturer's instructions to fuse the medium weight interfacing to the wrong side of all four exterior panels, the two facing strips, and the flap lining. We then followed manufacturer's instructions to fuse the lightweight interfacing to the wrong side of the two lining panels.
3. The handles and lining pocket were not interfaced, nor was the front of the flap.
   NOTE: In some of the photos below, you may see non-interfaced panels. This is because we sometimes experiment with various interfacing options as we build our prototypes. We are not always able to capture photos of all these options. The fusing notes given above and the cuts shown above in the Getting Started section are what we recommend for our specified fabrics. 

Create the exterior bag

1. Find the four exterior panels: two plain and two cut on the bias. 
2. Cut TWO 24" lengths of piping. Place one length along the bottom raw edge of each plain exterior panel, aligning the piping's insertion tape with the raw edge of the fabric. Machine baste the piping in place.
   
3. Place the fabric panels right sides together as two pairs: one bias and one plain in each pair. Align the bottom raw edge of the plain panel with the top raw edge of the bias panel. Pin both pairs in place.
   
4. The piping will be sandwiched between the two layers.
   
5. Using a Zipper foot, stitch across both pairs, running your seam as close as possible to the piping. Press open the seam allowances.
6. Place the two sewn exterior panels right sides together, aligning all the raw edges and carefully matching up the horizontal seams. Pin in place along both sides and across the bottom.
7. Attach a standard presser foot. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners. 
   
8. Create 5" box corners, which means your "box" will be half that size or 2½".
   NOTE: If you are new to this technique, check out our tutorial: How To Box Corners.
   
9. Turn the exterior bag right side out, push out the corners and press well.
10. Cut a 48" length of piping. Pin it around the top raw edge of the exterior bag. We finished our ends along a side seam. As with the other lengths, the insertion tape of the piping should be flush with the raw edge of the fabric. Pin in place.
    NOTE: If you are new to working with and/or finishing the ends of piping, check out our full step-by-step piping tutorial.
    
11. Using a Zipper foot, machine baste the piping in place, running the seam as close to the piping as possible.
    
12. Press back the top raw edge so the raw edge is hidden against the wrong side of the fabric and the piping creates a finished top edge all around. Press well. You can also lightly pin the folded edge in place.
    
13. Set aside the exterior bag

Create the lining pocket

1. Find the 11" wide x 16" high lining pocket panel and the 9" zipper. Measure 3" down from the top raw edge of the fabric panel and cut across horizontally, dividing the panel into two sections. The zipper will go between the two sections. 
   
2. Place the small top section right sides together with the top edge of the zipper. The zipper should be centered side to side. Pin in place.
3. Using a Zipper foot and a ¼" seam allowance, stitch across through both layers.
   
   NOTE: As with most zipper insertions, start with the zipper half way open. Stitch to the middle, where you can start to feel you're approaching the zipper pull. Stop with your needle in the down position. Twist your fabric around slightly and carefully close the zipper. Re-position and finish sewing to the end. 
4. Press the fabric up and away from the zipper.
   
5. Repeat to stitch the top edge of the large bottom pocket section to the bottom edge of the zipper. 
   
6. As with the small section, press the large section away from the zipper teeth. Edgestitch along both sides of the zipper.
   
7. Fold up the bottom edge of the pocket panel to align with the top edge. The pocket panel should be right sides together. Pin along both sides. 
   
8. Re-attach a standard presser foot. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch the sides. 
9. Trim the seam allowances back to just under ¼". 
   
10. Turn the pocket right sides out and press. Using a ¼" seam allowance, topstitch along each side. 
    
11. This seam encloses the unfinished edges of the pocket so there are no exposed edges inside the pocket. A bit like aFrench seam, but in reverse.
    

Complete the lining

1. Find the two 16½" x 24" lining panels and the two 5" x 24" facing strips (which are in the exterior fabric).
2. Place one lining panel right side up and flat on your work surface. 
3. Place the finished pocket along the top edge of this panel. Center the pocket side to side and align the top raw edge of the panel with the raw edges of the pocket. Pin or hand baste the pocket in place.
   
4. Place one facing strip right sides together along the top of the lining panel, sandwiching the pocket between the layers. Pin in place. 
   
5. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch across through all the layers.
6. Press the seam allowance up towards the facing.
   
7. Topstitch ¼" from the seam within the facing strip. We used our Quarter Inch Seam foot. This helps secure the seam allowance in position and offers some extra stability for the pocket at the seam line. 
   
8. Repeat to attach the remaining facing strip to the top of the remaining lining panel. 
   
9. Place the two lining panels right sides together, aligning all the raw edges, being especially careful to match up the facing strips. Pin along both sides and across the bottom. 
10. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners. 
    
11. As above for the exterior bag, create 5" box corners in the lining. 
    
    NOTE: As mentioned above, If you are new to this technique, check out our tutorial: How To Box Corners.

Create the flap

1. Find the interfaced flap lining and the flap exterior. 
2. Measure and mark the position for the male end on the magnetic snap on one end of the flap lining. The position should be 1½" up from the raw edge and centered side to side.
   
3. Make small slits and insert the male half of the magnetic snap. 
   
4. Secure on the wrong side of the flap lining.
   
   NOTE: If you are new to inserting magnetic snaps, check out our full step-by-step tutorial: How to Insert a Magnetic Snap Closure. 
5. Place the flap lining right sides together with the flap exterior. Pin along both sides and across the bottom where the magnetic snap is placed.
   
6. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch along both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners. The opposite end remains open and raw. 
   
7. Clip the corners and turn the flap right side out. Press flat.
8. Lengthen the stitch and topstitch along the seam, using a ¼" seam allowance. We used our Quarter Inch Seam foot. 
   
9. Set the finished flap aside.
   

Create the handles

1. Find the two 3½" x 19" bias cut fabric strips, the piping cord, and the boning (if using boning). Cut TWO 13" lengths from the cording and TWO 19" lengths from the boning. Tape all the ends of the piping cord to keep them from unraveling.
2. Press one fabric strip in half lengthwise to set a center crease.
3. Press in each long raw edge to meet in the middle at the crease line.  
   
4. Unfold the strip flat so all three crease lines are visible. 
5. Re-fold the strip right sides together. Measure 3" in from each end and place a pin. 
6. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch from each pin mark out to the end of the strip. So you now have a strip with a 3" seam on each end.
   
7. Press the two short seams open, then continue pressing the length of the strip, following along your original crease lines. You've created a casing sleeve for the handle. Turn it right side out. Press again if necessary.
8. Slip one end of the cording into each end of the handle sleeve. Each end of the cording should sit approximately ½" beyond the seam stop. 
   
9. Hand stitch the cording in place. You just need a few tacking stitches.
   
10. Repeat to secure the opposite end of the cord in the same manner. Make sure the cord lays flat prior to hand-tacking the second end.
11. Fold the entire sleeve so the two folded edges meet. The cording should slide to one side, allowing you to pin the edges together. The fabric is thick, so you'll need to futz with this step a bit. Fold in as close as you can get to the cording then pin in place. 
    
12. Using a Zipper foot, edgestitch the along the length of the sleeve, starting and stopping the seam at the ends of the cording or approximately 2½" from each sleeve end. 
    
    NOTE: As with the folding step above, this seam is tricky because of the thickness of the fabric and the dimension of the cording. The good thing is that both the fabric and the piping cord are soft, allowing you to "mush" them to one side as you SLOWLY stitch the seam (yes, "mush" is a highly technical sewing term). We also reduced the pressure a bit on our presser foot to allow more flexibility. 
13. Repeat to create the second handle. 
14. If using boning, thread one length through the open end of each sleeve, gently working it around until it comes out the opposite end. Try to keep the boning resting against the edgestitched seam. If necessary, you can lightly pin each end in place against the fabric. 
    NOTE: Remember, the boning is optional, but it does allow the handles a bit more rigidity so they easily stand up on their own. Boning is actually kind of fun to work with, and it is meant to be sewn across, so don't sweat it when you stitch your final topstitching seam. 

Insert the second half of magnetic snap

1. Find the exterior bag and the finished flap. 
2. Measure from side seam to side seam to find the exact center of the bag front. Mark this position with a pin.
3. Center the flap against the front of the bag. There is some flexibility in exactly where the flap in placed. We accounted for ½" for a seam allowance at the top raw edge of the flap plus an additional 1" of "play" to allow the flap to bridge from the back to the front of the bag. So our flap extended 1½" above the top piped edge of the exterior bag. 
   
4. Our snap center point (as matched to the flap) is now 7" down from the top piped edge of the bag. 
5. We marked it on an intersection of the plaid, and inserted the female half of the magnetic snap.
   
   NOTE: As mentioned above, if you are new to inserting magnetic snaps, check out our full step-by-step tutorial: How to Insert a Magnetic Snap Closure.

Finishing

1. Find the lining bag. Turn it wrong side out. 
2. Press back the top raw edge ½" all around.
   
3. Find the exterior bag. It should be right side out. 
4. Slip the lining inside the exterior so the two are now wrong sides together. Align the side seams and bottom boxed corners. 
5. Along the top, the folded edge of the lining shoul

I think we can all agree little things tend to be pretty dang cute: babies, puppies, kittens, Barbie® shoes... but let's face it, sometimes you need BIG to take care of business. This fun storage bin lives up to its jumbo name. It's a large-and-in-charge fabric basket that's ready to take on your bigger storage tasks. From books to blankets to balls of yarn, if you have a lot to keep track of, this project is for you. We chose two bold fabrics in organic cotton. And what is that dynamite looking "rope" ringing the top and creating the handles? Piping cord! Inexpensive yet just the right soft and strong combo. 

We originally used an organic cotton canvas for our exterior fabric, which provided enough natural heft that a single layer of heavy fusible interfacing was enough to allow the basket to easily stand up on its own. We recommend this type of medium-weight substrate for the best results.

The Birch Fabrics cotton canvas we originally used is currently on back order at Fabric.com. However, they carry a wide selection, and we found two new prints from the same Birch Fabrics' Charley Harper collection that would be a great alternative: Foxsimilies in Grey from the Organic Canvas collection by Charley Harper Nurture for Birch Fabrics for the exterior and Feathers in Mineral from the Organic Cotton collection by Charley Harper Nuture for Birch Fabrics for the lining.

In addition to the heavier-weight exterior, the top ring of piping cord adds to the stability and helps hold the round shape.

As with any large project, wrangling the big sections of this basket through your machine can sometimes be a bit of a challenge. Remember our top tips: 1) make sure you test your stitch length, needle type, and tension settings on scraps first to insure your machine is firing on all cylinders; 2) go slowly and stop as needed, with your needle in the down position, to adjust the fabric under the foot; and 3) if you're getting frustrated, take a break... even if you walk away with the project still in the machine. 

The tote finishes at approximately 17" high x 16" in diameter.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome 4120QDC)
• Zipper foot
• Quarter Inch Seam foot (optional, but helpful for the topstitching)
• Ditch Quilting foot (optional, another option for topstitching)
• Denim needle 

Fabric and Other Supplies

Supplies shown are for ONE bin and yardage is figured to allow for a vertical motif. Should you choose a different fabric with a more random motif, you may be able to get away with a smaller cut. See the actual cut sizes in the Getting Started section below. 

• 2 yards of 44"+ wide light to medium-weight cotton canvas or similar for the exterior; we used 44" Cardinal Stagger in Red from the Organic Canvas collection by Charley Harper for Birch Fabrics
• 2 yards of 44"+ wide quilting-weight cotton for the lining; we used 44" Flight in Paprika from the Organic Flight collection by Birch Fabrics 
• 2 yards of 20"+ heavy, one-sided fusible interfacing; we used Pellon 71F Peltex Fusible Stabilizer (#0307088) from Fabric.com 
• 2½ yards of 1½" piping cord** (also called welt) or a similar width of soft rope; we use Conso cotton piping in a size #8, purchased locally
  NOTE: **At these larger sizes, we found two distinctly different sizing methods. Some companies used the diameter of the cut end, which is this case is ½". Others used the circumference, which for our sample is 1½". You want it to be thick enough to stabilize the top and create easy-to-grip handles, but it also needs to fit through the casing and the grommets. 
• FOUR extra-large eyelets/grommets; we used a Dritz Extra-Large (7/16") Eyelet Kit in Nickel 
• All purpose thread to match fabric
• Heavy topstitching thread in a coordinating color for topstitching accents; we used Coats Heavy in Natural, purchased locally
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Iron and ironing board
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Tape measure
• Seam gauge
• Seam ripper
• Straight pins
• Fabric glue
• Duct tape or similar

Getting Started

1. Download and print out FOUR copies of each of the TWO pattern pieces: Canvas Basket Pattern Piece-A and Canvas Basket Pattern Piece-B.
   IMPORTANT: Each pattern is ONE 8½" x 11" sheet. You must print the PDF files at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a guide rule on each page so you can confirm your final printout is to scale.
2. Cut out all eight pattern pieces along the solid lines. Using the printed arrows as your guide, align each A piece with a corresponding B piece to create four quarter circle segments. Then, again using the printed arrows as your guide, match up the four quarter segments to create one full circle. As an alternative, you can print and assemble just two quadrants into a half circle and cut on the fold, as shown below. For all matching, butt together and tape; do not overlap.
3. From the fabric for the exterior (Cardinal Stagger in Red in our sample), fussy cut the following:
   TWO 24½" wide x 17" high rectangles
   Using the pattern, cut ONE circle for the base
   NOTE: This is a wonderfully large tote. Take the time to use the both the gridlines on your cutting mat and your see-through ruler to carefully fussy cut your fabric for the most striking look.
   
4. From the fabric for the lining (Flight in Paprika in our sample), fussy cut the following:
   NOTE: Although "just" the lining, you should still take the time to carefully fussy cut in order to create a a nice motif for the top band of the lining that folds over the top.
   TWO 24½" wide x 20½" high rectangles
   Using the pattern, cut ONE circle for the base
   
5. From the fusible interfacing, cut the following:
   NOTE: The dimensions don't need to be precise; you simply want the interfacing a bit larger than your exterior fabric pieces.
   TWO approximately 25½" wide x 18" high rectangles
   ONE 17" x 17" square
6. Cut the piping cord (or rope) into ONE 50" length and TWO 18" lengths. Tape all the raw ends to prevent them from raveling. 

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Fusing

1. Center the two exterior rectangles and the exterior base on the corresponding interfacing panels. The wrong side of the fabric should be against the fusible side of the interfacing. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse in place. 
2. Trim the interfacing flush with the bottom circle...
   
3. ... and the panels. If possible, use a rotary cutter on the panels for the cleanest edge.
   
   NOTE: Once fused, these pieces will be quite stiff and a little tricky to maneuver, but will result in a nice large tote that can stand up on its own. 

Create the exterior body

1. Place the two exterior rectangles right sides together along one 17" raw edge. Pin together.
   
2. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch together. Press open the seam allowance from both the back...
   
3. ... and the front so it lays as flat as possible. You will need to press firmly to flatten.
   
4. Re-thread the machine with the heavy thread in the top and bobbin. If possible, attach either a Quarter Inch Seam foot orDitch Quilting foot. Lengthen the stitch.
   
5. Topstitch ¼" to either side of the seam. Using a foot with a flange guide is optional, but will make the precise topstitching so much easer.
   
6. Place the opposite 17" raw edges of the exterior panels right sides together, forming a tube. Pin in place. Stitch together, using a ½" seam allowance.
7. As above, re-thread and topstitch to either side of the seam. This side will be a bit trickier since the panel is now a tube. Work slowly, flattening the fabric in small sections as you stitch. If you see wrinkles, don't worry, the fabric will press out beautifully. 

Insert the base into the exterior body

1. Find the fused exterior base circle. Fold it in half, top to bottom, and place a pin at each edge of the fold. 
2. Open up and re-fold the opposite direction, again placing a pin at each edge of the fold. You can also use your paper pattern to help find these points.
   
3. You are creating quadrant pins around the circle, like the points on the face of a clock: 12:00, 3:00, 6:00 and 9:00.
   
4. Repeat this process with the exterior body. First, bring together the two seams of the body; these are your 3:00 and 9:00 points. Then, fold the opposite direction to mark the 12:00 and 6:00 points. 
5. Set the base into the loop so the two pieces are right sides together. Align the quadrant pins of the exterior body with the quadrant pins of the base circle. 
   
6. Pin at the quadrant points first, then fill in around the circle. Don't be afraid to use a lot of pins in order to get the two pieces to lay flat against one another. 
   
7. This technique is the same as any project where you are inserting a flat circle into a tube. If you are new to this process, check out our full, step-by-step tutorial. 
8. If necessary, re-thread the machine with standard thread to match the fabric in the top and bobbin.
9. Using a ¼" seam allowance, stitch all the way around the circle. We used the edge of our standard presser foot as our guide. Go slowly, holding the layers flat with your fingers if necessary to avoid any puckers.
   
10. Turn the basket right side out and iron the seams. It will be very stiff, but proper pressing will help ensure the basket sits flat. If you have a pressing ham, this might help with the curved edge. 
    

Create the lining with its top casing and piping 

1. Find the lining rectangles and base circle. They are assembled in the same manner as the exterior body.
2. First stitch the side seams and topstitch to either side. Remember to re-thread the machine with heavy thread in the top and bobbin for the topstitching.
   
3. Mark and insert the base into the tube.
   
4. And stitch all around, using a ¼" seam allowance. Remember to re-thread back to standard thread. As mentioned above, if you are new to this technique, check out our full, step-by-step tutorial on inserting a flat circle into a tube.
   
5. Fold down the top raw edge of the lining basket ¼" and press. Then fold down an additional 3" and press again. Pin in place.
   
6. Re-thread the machine with the heavy topstitching thread in the top and bobbin. 
7. To form the casing tunnel, stitch 1" away from the top folded edge, leaving a 2" - 3" break in the seam to insert the cording. 
   NOTE: Our Janome machine has great plate markings and we were able to use the 1" guide on the plate to keep our seam straight. If you do not have a 1" plate marking, you might want to consider measuring and drawing in a guideline with a fabric pen or pencil. 
   
8. Remember to lock your seam on either side of the 2" - 3" opening. 
   
9. Find the 50" length of piping cord. Feed one end into the casing opening. The cording is thick though that you should be able to work it through on its own rather than needing to attach a large safety pin to one end, which is a common practice with thinner cording. 
   
10. Thread the cording all the way through. When it comes out the opposite side of the opening, place the two raw ends together and lay the piping down against the fabric. If it doesn't lay flat, trim away a bit from one side until it does. 
11. Use a small dot of fabric glue to adhere the butted-together ends. The, wrap the joint with a small strip of duct tape to secure. 
    
12. Let the piping circle slide back into position within the casing tunnel. 
    
13. Refold the top hem back into position and pin in place.
    
14. Attach a Zipper foot and stitch the remaining section of the casing seam, carefully matching the new segment with the beginning and end of the existing seam.

Attach the lining to the exterior

1. Turn the lining wrong side out. Find the exterior basket; it should be right side out. 
2. Slip the lining inside the exterior so the two are now wrong sides together. Carefully align the seams of the two pieces and make sure the base of the lining is sitting flat against the exterior base. 
3. Fold the top of the lining over the raw top edge of the exterior. The piping should fit snuggly against the top edge of the exterior and the bottom folded edge of lining should extend another 2" over the exterior. Be VERY careful to line up the topstitching on the lining with the topstitching on the exterior. Pin in place, using LOTS of pins. 
   
   NOTE: If you are new to working with firmly structured 3-D items, you may want to consider hand basting the overlapping lining in place. Maneuvering the basket through the machine for these final two lines of topstitching can be a bit of a challenge. If you have a free arm on your machine, this would be a good time to use it. As with all challenging parts of any project, go slowly and stop as needed, with your needle in the down position, to adjust the layers and align the seam.
4. Using a Zipper foot, stitch all the way around the top of the basket, following the exact path of the original casing seam.
5. Switch back to a Standard foot and stitch all the way around the bottom of the lining overlap. Run your seam ¼" from the folded edge of the lining. 
6. Press well.
   

Grommets and handle loops

1. Find the four grommets and the two 18" lengths of cording/rope. 
2. Measure to find the exact center point along the top lining panel on each side. Remember, the topstitched seams are the actual front and back of the basket, so the handles will be opposite these seams. Fold the top of the basket together, matching the seams, where the basket folds to the left and right of the seams are the side center points. Mark these points with pins. If you want to be more precise, you can use a tape to measure from the center of each seam 11⅞" around to each side. Again, mark each side center point with a pin. 
   
3. Measure 2½" to the left of each side center point and mark.
   
4. Then measure 2½" to the right of each side center point and mark. These two outer points are the positions for the grommets. 
   
5. Following the manufacturer's instructions of our own great Sew4Home step-by-step Grommet Installation Tutorial, insert one grommet over each marked point. 
   
6. You are inserting these grommets through some thick layers. Don't be afraid to whack that hammer with purpose. It's a great way to take out some frustrations!
   
7. Find one of the 18" lengths of piping cord. Thread it through one set of grommets. Thread from back to front through one, then from front to back through the second. 
   
8. Tie a secure knot in one end and pull the knot firmly against the grommet. 
   
9. Adjust the loop of the handle for a 3½" drop.
   
10. Tie a knot in the opposite end of the loop to secure this drop length. 
11. Trim the excess cord flush against each knot.
    
12. Repeat to attach the remaining handle. Apply a seam sealant to prevent the cording from fraying. 

There are many things that make fall fabulous: leaves on the trees exploding with color, the aroma of a rich stew simmering on stove, morning frost sketching delicate patterns on the window panes. If you're a lover of sewing and craft, it's also the time when we leave behind the distractions of summer and turn once again to our trusty sewing machines. We're taking a very fabulous look at fall this week and next with our friends from Fabric.com. We have two weeks of gorgeous fabrics and the perfect projects to welcome the art of autumn. Our series starts off with today's Canteen Bag, featuring two classic fall fabrics: wool suiting and corduroy.

If you've always been a bit hesitant about sewing circles... especially circles that become tubes, it's time to conquer your fears. Even with all its beautiful curves and professional finishing touches, our Canteen Bag is a project that is so much easier than it seems. We provide a pattern for the front and back exterior circles as well as the pretty front pocket. Even so, you might enjoy reading through our complete step-by-step tutorial: How To Make and Measure a Circle Without a Pattern. 

The bag features a layered lining with the resulting interior seam allowances covered by fold-over elastic. This construction method is easier than a traditional two-part lining, and the elastic binding is much more forgiving than fabric bias binding. 

Our thanks to Fabric.com for sponsoring the Fabulous Fall series. If you haven't visited Fabric.com before, make today the day you start – or should I say, the day your "addiction" begins?! Be prepared to lose yourself for a few hours. If you're already a Fabric.com shopper, you know there's always something new to see, like the Deal of the Day on their home page or Seasonal Specials. 

Depending on the fabric weight you select as well as the weight of the front D-ring, you may wish to add a snap to the top of the exterior pocket or even simply hand tack it in place at the apex of the curve. The wool suiting we selected was interfaced and stood up nicely on its own during our photography session. However, given more weight, it could fall open. A snap or hand tack is a fast and easy addition that can be added during construction or even after the fact. 

The bag finishes at approximately 9" in diameter and is 2½" deep. The shoulder strap is fully adjustable. 

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome Horizon Memory Craft 8900 QCP)
• Zipper foot

Fabric and Other Supplies

NOTE: Inventory shifts constantly, and some fabric may not be in-stock when you first visit. However, there are other color options as well as re-stock dates listed when appropriate for each fabric at the Fabric.com site. 

• ½ yard of 44"+ wide wool suiting or similar for the bag's front and back exterior and the front pocket; we used 60" Wool Blend (50% wool/50% polyester) Herringbone Suiting in Brown/Lime (#0350973) from Fabric.com
• 1 yard of 54"+ wide corduroy or similar for the bag's side panels, strap, piping and pocket binding: we used 58" 21-Wale Corduroy in Olive Drab by Robert Kaufman Fabrics (#0304632) from Fabric.com 
  NOTE: You will have extra yardage left over with this amount. We figured our major cuts with the wale running lengthwise, a better look but one which does require more fabric. 
• ½ yard of 44"+ wide quilting weight cotton or similar for the bag's lining; we used 44" Medallions in Dark Green from the A Year To Crow About collection by Red Rooster Fabrics (#0367334) from Fabric.com
• ¾ yard of 20"+ wide medium weight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon Décor Bond
• 2 yards of 3/16" to ¼" piping cord; we used Wrights Cotton Piping Size 2" (#NR-362) from Fabric.com 
  NOTE: Size 2 is ¼". Size 1 is 3/16".
• 2 yards of ⅝" fold-over elastic to coordinate with the lining fabric; we used fold over elastic in dark brown, purchased locally
• ONE 14"+ zipper; we used a 26" metal zipper, purchased locally
  NOTE: Shorter metallic zippers can be hard to find. We simply cut ours to fit, which is simple to do. For the best look on this project, we recommend a metal zipper in a chunkier style. 
• THREE 1" D-rings to match the style/color of the metal zipper; we used antique brass, purchased locally
• ONE 1" Tri-Slide Slider to match the style/color of the metal zipper; we used antique brass, purchased locally
  NOTE: As with the zipper, we recommend a thicker/heavier hardware. It gives a much more professional look. 
• All purpose thread to match fabric
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Iron and ironing board
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Tape measure
• Seam gauge
• Seam ripper
• Straight pins
• Hand sewing needle

Getting Started

1. Download and print out the TWO pattern pieces. Print TWO COPIES of Canteen Bag Body. Print ONE COPY ofCanteen Exterior Pocket.
   IMPORTANT: Each pattern is ONE 8½" x 11" sheet. You must print the PDF files at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a guide rule on each page so you can confirm your final printout is to scale.
2. Cut out each pattern along the solid line. 
3. Match up the two Bag Body pattern pieces, using the printed arrows as your guide. Butt together and tape; do not overlap.
4. From the fabric for the bag's front and back exterior and the front pocket (Brown Lime Herringbone in our sample), cut the following:
   Using the Bag Body pattern, cut TWO circles. If you have a strong motif, such as our pretty woven stripes, make a careful fussy cut to keep the motif straight up and down. 
   
5. Using the Bag Exterior Pocket pattern, cut one pocket. Match the pocket pattern so it perfectly aligns with the front exterior circle. 
   
   Then, fussy cut the pocket from the fabric with the same alignment.
   
6. From the fabric for the bag's side panels, strap, piping and pocket binding (Olive Drab Corduroy in our sample), cut the following:
   ONE 3" x 66" strip (with the wale running lengthwise) for the strap and D-ring loops. You will need to cut two strips and join them together to equal a final cut length of 66"; the length of each strip will depend on the width of your chosen fabric. 
   ONE 3½" x 16½" rectangle (with the wale running lengthwise) for the bottom section of the side panel.
   ONE 3½" x 14" rectangle (with the wale running lengthwise) for the zipper panel.
   TWO 1¼" x 30" strips, on the bias, for the piping.
   NOTE: Because of the nice, wide width of our corduroy, we were able to cut each of our bias strips as single lengths. If your fabric is narrower, you may need to piece more than one bias strip to equal the finished 30" length. 
   ONE 1¼" x 15" strip, on the bias, for the pocket trim.
7. From the fabric for the lining (Medallions in Dark Green in our sample), cut the following:
   ONE 3½" x 16½" rectangle for the bottom section of the side panel.
   ONE 3½" x 14" rectangle for the zipper panel
   ONE 6" x 9" rectangle for the inside pocket 
   Using the Bag Body pattern, cut TWO circles
8. From the interfacing, cut the following:
   ONE 3½" x 16½" rectangle for the bottom section of the side panel.
   ONE 3½" x 14" rectangle for the zipper panel
   ONE 6" x 9" rectangle for the inside pocket 
   Using the Bag Body pattern, cut TWO circles
   Using the Bag Exterior Pocket pattern, cut one pocket
9. Cut two 30" lengths from the piping cord.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Fusing

1. Find the exterior front and back circles, the exterior pocket, and the two 3½" corduroy rectangles (the bottom section of the side panel and the zipper panel).
2. Find the five interfacing pieces that match up with the above fabric cuts. 
3. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the corresponding interfacing piece to the wrong side of each fabric piece. 
   

Create the strap and D-ring tabs

1. As mentioned above, you will need to piece two lengths of fabric to create the finished 66". Find your 3" fabric strips.
2. Attach the strips as you would multiple lengths of binding. Place the strip lengths at right angles to one another. Pin in place, then stitch across from top to bottom on the diagonal. Trim away the corner to approximately ¼" from the diagonal seam. 
   
3. Open out the seam allowance and press flat.
4. Fold the strip in half, right sides together, so it is now 1½" x 66". Align the raw edges and pin in place.
5. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch the entire length of the strip. The ends remain open.
   
6. Press the seam allowance open and turn the strap right side out. 
   NOTE: See our quick tip for turning skinny tubes using a hemostat.
7. Press the long strap flat. 
8. Edgestitch along both sides.
   
9. From the finished length, cut ONE 2" length for the pocket D-ring loop and TWO 3" lengths for the side D-ring loops. 
   NOTE: Yes, you are cutting through the seam. Don't worry, you'll secure it again when the strap and loops and stitched into position. 

Exterior pocket and front panel

1. Find the interfaced exterior pocket. Fold it in half to find the center of the pocket's top curve. Mark this center point. 
2. Find the 2" strap length and one of the D-rings. Slip the fabric through the D-ring and loop it back on itself, aligning the raw ends. 
3. Place the loop and ring at the marked top center point of the pocket. The raw ends of the loop should be flush with the raw edge of pocket fabric. Pin in place.
   
4. Find the 15" length of pocket binding (the 15" bias cut strip of corduroy in our sample).
5. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together and press to set a center crease. 
   
6. Unfold, wrong side up, so the crease line in visible. 
7. Align the top edge of the binding strip with the top curved edge of the exterior pocket. Pin in place along the length of the binding. 
8. Using a ¼" seam allowance, stitch in place the length of the binding. You are stitching across and securing the D-ring and its loop with this seam. 
   
9. Wrap the binding up and over to the back of the pocket. 
10. Fold the raw edge of the binding in on itself, tucking the raw edge up against the center crease line. Pin in place along the back. The width of the visible binding on the front should be about ½".
11. Thread a hand sewing needle with thread to best match the binding and hand stitch the binding in place, using small, neat whip stitches. 
    
12. Trim the ends of the binding to match the curve of the pocket.
    
13. Decide which of your exterior circles you like best. This will be the front circle. 
14. Lay one lining circle right side down on your work surface. Lay the front exterior circle right side up on top of the lining circle, so the two are now wrong sides together. The raw edges should be flush all around. 
15. Place the bound pocket on top of the front exterior circle right side up. Because you did such a great job fussy cutting, you can perfectly align the motif of the pocket with the motif of the front circle. Align the bottom curve of the pocket with the bottom raw edges of the circles. Pin in place along the bottom of the pocket.
    
16. Machine baste the pocket in place, stitching through all the layers.
    NOTE: We opted to continue our basting around the top of the circle as well to help keep the layers in place around the entire circle.

Interior pocket and back panel.

1. Find the 6" x 9" pocket panel and the 6" x 9" interfacing piece. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. 
2. Fold the pocket in half, right sides together, so it is now 6" wide x 4½" high. Pin along all three sides, leaving an approximate 2-3" opening along the bottom for turning.
3. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch around all sides, pivoting at the corners. Lock your seam on either side of the 2-3" opening. Press open the seam allowance. Clip the corners.
   
4. Turn right side out. Push out the corners so they are nice and sharp. A chopstick or long knitting needle works well for this. Press well, pressing in the raw edges of the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam.  
5. Find the remaining lining circle. Place it right side up on your work surface.
6. Place the finished pocket on the lining. It should be centered side to side (approximately 2⅞" from each raw edge) and 3⅛" down from the top. Pin in place along both sides and across the bottom. 
   
7. Edgestitch the pocket in place, through all the layers, along both sides and across the bottom. This secures the pocket and closes the opening at the bottom used for turning. 
   
8. Find the remaining exterior circle. Place the exterior circle and the lining circle with the pocket wrong sides together, aligning the raw edges all around. Pin the layers together. 
9. Machine baste all around, staying approximately ¼" from the raw edge. 

Create the piping

1. If this is your first time making piping, see our tutorial, How To Make And Attach Your Own Piping. We are summarizing the steps below.
2. Find the two 1¼" x 30 bias strips. If you needed multiple strips to equal your 30" lengths, stitch them together now in the same manner as the strap above. 
3. Find the matching lengths of piping cord.
4. Wrap the fabric, right side out, around the cord. Pin close to the cord to hold it in place. 
5. Using a Zipper foot, sew close to the cord to create your fabric covered piping. 
6. Find the front exterior circle with the pocket in place.
7. Pin piping to the right side of the circle, aligning the raw edges of the piping with the raw edge of the circle, and leaving about 1" free at the head and tail. We put our joining seam along the bottom edge of the pocket.
   
8. If necessary, you can clip the piping to better allow it to curve around the circle. 
9. Using a Zipper foot, start stitching about ½" from the raw end of the piping (to facilitate a clean finish). Stitch all the way around, through all the layers.
   
10. When you are about 1" from the starting point, stop and lock your stitch. 
11. Remove the project from the machine.
12. Lay the piping against the fabric so it is flat and smooth. 
13. With a seam ripper, peel back the fabric on the 1" head and tail to expose the cording underneath.
14. Trim the end of cording tail so it exactly meets the end of the sewn-down cording. Fold under the end of the loose fabric to create a clean edge. Trim away excess fabric if necessary. Lift up that little bit piping you left loose at the beginning and wrap the folded end of the tail under and around, overlapping about ½".
15. Stitch in place, matching your seam line. Again, check out our full piping tutorial if this is a new process for you. 
16. Repeat to create and attach piping to the exterior back circle. 

Zipper panel

1. Find the fused 3½" x 14" rectangle for the zipper opening, the fused 3½" x 16½" rectangle for the bottom of the side, and the two matching lining rectangles.
2. Pair up each exterior piece with its corresponding lining piece, placing them wrong sides together. 
3. Machine baste each pair together along their long outer sides, using a ¼" seam allowance.
4. Set the 16½" strip aside. 
5. Cut the 14" fused panel exactly in half lengthwise so you now have TWO 1¾" x 14" strips.
   
6. Find the zipper. Place it right side up and flat on your work surface. 
7. Place one strip right sides together along the top tape of the zipper. Center the zipper on the strip. If your zipper is longer than the opening, center it so the zipper pull is just over ½" in from the left end and let the extra zipper on the stop end simply extend beyond the right end. 
8. Pin in place.
   
9. Using a Zipper foot, stitch the length of the strip, running the seam as close to the zipper teeth as possible. 
   
10. Repeat to attach the remaining half of the strip to the bottom tape of the zipper.
11. Press the strips away from the zipper teeth. On both sides, the exterior layer is on top and the lining layer is on the the bottom, sandwiching the zipper tape in between the layers. 
12. Edgestitch through all the layers, staying very close to the seamline on both sides of the zipper.
    
    NOTE: As shown in the photo above, because we used an extra long zipper that would be cut to length, we were able to open the zipper all the way and stitch with the zipper pull completely out of the way. If you use a 14" zipper, start with the zipper half way open. Stitch to the middle, where you can start to feel you're approaching the zipper pull. Stop with your needle in the down position. Twist your fabric around slightly and carefully close the zipper. Re-position and finish sewing to the end. 
13. Close the zipper and baste across the ends of the zipper to secure.
    
14. Trim away the excess tape at the top of the zipper.
    
15. If need be, trim away the excess zipper at the bottom. 
    NOTE: It is really quite easy to cut a metal zipper. Simply cut one side and then the other. However, don't use your good sewing scissors!
    

Complete the center ring

1. Find the remaining 3" cut strap lengths and the remaining two D-rings. Loop a  fabric strip through each D-ring, folding it back on itself and aligning the raw ends. 
2. Place a loop and ring at each end of the zipper. The raw ends of the loop should be flush with the raw end of the zipper. Pin in place.  
3. Find the 16½" strip you set aside above.
4. Align one end of this strip right sides together with the top end of the zipper panel, sandwiching the loop and ring between the layers. Pin in place. 
   
5. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch in place.
   
6. Repeat to attach the opposite end of the bottom rectangle to the bottom end of the zipper panel, forming a loop. Pin in place. Double check that the loop in not twisted anywhere along its length. 
7. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch in place.
8. Press both seam allowances towards the bottom panel. 
9. Flip the D-ring loops up towards the zipper and edgestitch along the two short seams within the bottom panel. 
   
10. You now have a finished side loop.
    

Insert the front and back panels into the side loop

1. Find the front exterior circle. Fold it in half, top to bottom, and place a pin at each edge of the fold. 
   
2. This halfway point will be about 2" above the bottom curve of the pocket. 
   
3. Find the side loop. Set the front exterior panel into the loop so the two pieces are right sides together. Align the side pins of the front panel with the horizontal seams of the loop. Pin at these point first, then fill in around the circle. Double check to make sure the pocket opening is right side up towards the zipper.
4. This technique is the same as any project where you are inserting a flat circle into a tube. In this case, we simply have a very narrow tube. If you are new to this process, check out our full, step-by-step tutorial. 
   
5. Using a Zipper foot, stitch all the way around the circle, running your seam as close to the piping as possible. 
   
6. Repeat to add the back panel. Remember to check again on this side to make sure the lining pocket is facing up towards the zipper. 
7. This side will be a bit more challenging to wrangle under the presser foot because you no longer have an open side. However, by making sure the zipper is all the way open and working to flatten the layers, you should be able to go all the way around without a problem. As with all things that may present a challenge, go slowly and stop – with your needle in the down position – to adjust the layers as needed. 
8. Turn the bag all the way wrong side out. Trim back the seam allowances to ⅜" on both the front and back.
9. Find the fold over elastic. Cut a length to fit around one complete panel seam allowance. Wrap the elastic over the seam allowance, encasing the raw edges to give the seam allowance a finished edge inside the bag. Leave 1"

String style backpacks are everywhere for Fall, from ripstop athletic gear to high-end leather bags. They're compact and lightweight but can hold plenty. Ours is made in two bright fabrics from Ann Kelle's Beatbox collection for Robert Kaufman fabrics, which we found at Fabric.com. To give our design even more functionality, we added unique front crossover pockets, which create four individual sections to hold smaller items.

Our Beatbox backpack is modeled by an energetic seven-year-old, but the size and shape would work for any age. It's style that's ready to hit the road: a modern punch of color with a retro design. Tote it to the gym, fill it up with necessities for a day hike or picnic, slip it on for a bike ride to the farmer's market. Fusible fleece between the layers softens and stabilizes, and the adjustable cording shoulder straps, which thread through bottom eyelets, make going smaller or larger a snap.

Our thanks to Fabric.com for providing both the super cute fabric and the fun fold-over elastic in a vibrant chevron pattern that binds the front pockets. If you've never visited Fabric.com or haven't been back in awhile, there's always something new to discover; like the Deal of the Day on their home page; as well as the Just Arrived section for the latest bargains; and special featured items, like the super popular Cotton + Steel collections. 

Our backpack finishes at approximately 15½" tall x 12½" wide. 

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome Memory Craft 6300)

Fabric and Other Supplies

• 1 yard of 44" + cotton fabric for the pack exterior front and pockets: we used Beatbox in Bright Green by Ann Kelle for Robert Kaufman Fabrics (0337198) from Fabric.com
• 1 yard of 44" + fabric for the pack exterior back, drawcord casing and lining: we used Beatbox Headphones in Bright Green by Ann Kelle for Robert Kaufman Fabrics (0337200) from Fabric.com
• ½ yard of 45" medium-weight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon 809 Décor-Bond
• ½ yard of 45" one-sided fusible fleece; we used Pellon 987F Fusible Fleece
• 1 yard of ⅝" coordinating fold-over elastic: we used Chevron in Teal (0341999) from Fabric.com
• 4 yards of coordinating ¼" cording: we used light blue, purchased locally
• ONE large eyelet and TWO extra-large eyelets; we used Dritz Eyelets in Nickel in Large (1/4") and Extra-Large (7/16"), both in nickel and both offered as eyelets with an installation tool
• All-purpose sewing thread to match fabric and trim
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• See-through ruler
• Straight pins
• Iron and ironing board
• Pressing cloth
• Large safety pin or hemostats to pull cording
• To finish the ends of the cording: lighter or match to melt ends (if polyester), or seam sealant, or transparent tape

Getting Started

1. From the fabric for the exterior front and pockets (Beatbox in our sample), cut the following:
   ONE 15½" high x 14" wide rectangle for the main exterior front panel 
   FOUR 13" high x 14" wide rectangles for the pockets
2. From the fabric for the exterior back, drawcord casing and lining (Headphones in our sample), cut the following
   ONE 15½" high x 14" wide rectangle for the back exterior
   TWO 15½" high x 14" wide rectangles for the lining
   TWO 4" high x 14" wide strips for the casings
   NOTE: We recommend fussy cutting all the fabric, but it is particularly important for casing strips. The back casing channel will look best if it appears to be an extension of the back panel. 
3. From the cording, cut ONE 6" length for the hanger loop, then cut the remaining cording into TWO equal lengths.
   NOTE: Tape all the ends to prevent the cording from unraveling.
4. From the fusible fleece, cut TWO 15½" x 14" rectangles.
5. From the fusible interfacing, cut TWO 13" x 14" rectangles.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Prepare the front of the backpack

1. Find the 15½" x 14" front panel, the 15½" x 14" back panel and the two 15½" x 14" pieces of fusible fleece.
2. Using a pressing cloth and following manufacturer's instructions, fuse a fleece panel to the wrong side of each fabric panel. Make sure the edges of the fleece and fabric are flush on all sides of both pieces. 
      
3. Find the four 13" x 14" pocket panels and the two 13" x 14" pieces of fusible interfacing.  
4. Break the pocket panels into two pairs of two. Place the two pairs wrong sides together with an interfacing piece between the layers. Do not fuse anything yet.
5. Stack the layers together: fabric, interfacing, fabric, fabric, interfacing, fabric. Make sure the fabric motifs are all lined up properly.
   
6. Shuffle the stack so the edges of all six layers are flush on all sides. Place the stack flat on your work surface. 
7. Measure 6" down from the top along the right side and make a mark. Align a see-through ruler from the upper left corner down and across the front of the stack to the 6" mark. Draw a diagonal line.
   
8. Cut through all the layers along the drawn diagonal line. 
   
9. Separate the stack back into two pocket sandwiches. Following the manufacturer’s instruction, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of one fabric panel in each sandwich then re-layer as two pocket pairs, wrong sides together.
10. Machine baste along the diagonal edge of each pair, staying very close to the cut edge.
11. Cut two 15" lengths of fold-over elastic. Wrap the diagonal edge of each basted pocket pair and stitch in place. Stay as close to the edge of the elastic binding as possible, but make sure you are still catching both the front and back. Trim away the excess elastic at each end. 
    
12. Flip over one pair so the diagonal cuts are now mirror images of one another. Layer the two pockets one on top of the other, aligning the bottom and side edges. Mark and set the one smaller eyelet at the intersection where the pockets cross. The eyelet should be set down just far enough to clear the binding. If you are new to working with eyelets/grommets, check out our full step-by-step tutorial: How To Install Metal Grommets (don't let the name fool you; an eyelet is simply a small grommet).
    
13. Find the main exterior front panel, which you should have already fused with a layer of fleece. Place it right side up and flat on your work surface.
14. Place the pocket unit right side up on the exterior panel, aligning the bottom and sides.
15. Using the installed eyelet as your guide, draw a vertical line from the bottom of the eyelet down to the bottom of the layered panels. 
    
16. Thread the machine with thread to best match the fabric in the top and bobbin. 
17. Stitch along the drawn vertical line, locking your stitch just below the eyelet. If possible, for the cleanest look, use a lock stitch. If this is not a feature on your machine, leave the thread tails long and tie them to secure at the back of the front unit. 
     
18. This completes the front of the bag. 

Prepare the back of the backpack

1. Find the 15½ x 14 exterior back panel, which you should have already fused with a layer of fleece. Place it right side up and flat on your work surface. 
2. Measure to locate the exact center along the top edge. Find the 6" length of cording. This will become the hanger loop. With the center mark as your guide, pin the cording in place, creating an even loop. Our loop ends were approximately 1" to either side of the center mark. Let the taped ends extend beyond the top raw edge.
   

3. Stitch across the loop ends to secure, running this short seam approximately ¼" from the raw edge. Trim away the taped ends so the cord lays flush against the fabric.

     

Prepare and place the draw cord casings

1. If necessary, re-thread the machine with thread to best match the casing/back exterior/lining fabric in the top and bobbin.
2. Find the two 4" x 14" casing strips. On each strip, make a narrow, double turn hem along the 4" edges. To do this, fold in the raw edge ¼" and press. Fold in an additional ¼" and press again. Stitch the narrow hem in place, running the seam close to the folded edge. 
   
3. Fold each hemmed strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press well.
   
4. Find the front and back exterior panels. 
5. Place one folded casing strip along the top edge of the front panel, aligning the raw edges of the casing with the raw edge of the front panel, and centering the casing so it sits ½" from each side. Pin the casing in place.
   
6. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch the casing in place. 
   
7. Repeat to attach the remaining casing strip to the back exterior panel.
   
8. Press the seam allowances down, away from the casing.
   

Assemble front to back

1. Place the front and back exterior panels right sides together. Align the side and bottom edges and the hemmed ends of the casings. 
2. Open up the pressed casing seam allowances so you can stitch all the way to the top edge of the exterior panels.  
3. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch both sides and across the bottom. 
   
4. Remember to pivot at the corners and be very careful to make sure you pull the casings out of the way at the top. 
   
5. Your side seams should run right next to the casings, but should not penetrate the casings.
   
6. Leave the exterior bag wrong side out.

Prepare and attach the lining

1. Find the two 15½" x 14" lining pieces. Place the lining pieces right sides together and pin along both sides and across the bottom, leaving a 5-6" opening along the bottom for turning. 
2. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch both sides and across the bottom, remembering to lock your seam on either side of the 5-6" opening. Clip the corners and press open the seam allowances.
   
3. Turn the lining right side out. 
4. Find the exterior bag, which should still be wrong side out. Slip the lining inside the bag exterior so the exterior and lining are now right sides together. Pin together around the entire top edge.
   
5. Be very careful to match the side seams, opening up the seam allowance so it lays flat. 
   
6. Stitch all around the top edge, following right on top of the previously stitched casing seam.
   
7. Pull out the lining and check to be sure the casings did not get caught in the stitching.
   
8. Reach in through the 5-6" opening left in the bottom of the lining and pull the backpack right side out. 
   
9. The top corners should be completely sealed and the casings free.
   
10. With the lining still pulled out, press in the raw edges of the bottom opening so they are flush with sewn seam and pin in place.
    
11. Edgestitch the opening closed.
    
12. Push the lining down into place inside the backpack. Press the lining down and the casings up. 
    

Bottom eyelets and draw cord

1. Mark and cut a hole in each of the bottom corners. The center of the eyelet opening should be approximately 1" in from the side and 1" up from the bottom at each corner. Remember to place the bag face down on the table to set the eyelet.
   NOTE: You are inserting through quite a few layers, which is why we used the extra-large eyelets for the corners. The neck of the eyelet will fit through, but you have to use some force to hammer the top in place. As mentioned above, if your are new to working with eyelets/grommets, check out our tutorial: How To Install Metal Grommets.   
   
2. Attach a large safety pin or a pair of hemostats to one end of one length of cording.
3. Thread the cording through the top casings of the bag. Go from right to left through the front casing, then from left to right through the back casing. 
   
4. Reverse to thread the second length of cording: left to right through the front and then right to left through the back.
5. Pull the the cording so the ends are even on both sides.
6. Thread each pair of cording ends through its corner eyelet from back to front. 
7. If possible try the backpack on its intended wearer to adjust the length of the string straps. 
8. Tie the ends together into a double knot. Finish the ends in your favorite manner. If your cording is polyester, you can melt then ends with a lighter to seal. You could also use a seam sealant or wrap the ends with a transparent tape as we did.  
   

Сумка из сукна. Мастер-класс.

Автор: Arina R.

Кто просил мастер-класс по сумке?:) Я наконец-то взялась и запечатлела основные моменты процесса пошива сумочки. Смотрим и шьем вместе, комментируем и корректируем:) Надеюсь, у меня получится объяснить и показать понятно:) Качество фотографий хромает, поскольку процесс занимает не пару часов и время суток везде разное:)

!!! Пожалуйста, при использовании материалов мастер-класса, оставляйте ссылку на источник информации. 
Спасибо!

1. Готовим материалы

- основная ткань (если у вас в запасах не нашлось шинельного сукна, его может заменить драп или плотный деним. Если сумка небольшого размера, плотность ткани можно уменьшить) 

- подклад (я использую хлопок)

- дублерин на тканевой основе или клеевая бязь

- укрепляющий материал для донышка (фильц или иглопробивное полотно, или еще что-то подобное)

- фурнитура (молния, 4 кольца, хольнитены по возможности и желанию)

2. Кроим (предлагаю вам универсальный способ, по которому вы сможете выкроить сумку любого размера)

Я режу материал на 5 прямоугольников, размеры которых высчитываю исходя из пожеланий заказчика. Возьмем стандартный вариант 25*30*10 см. 

- основная часть сумки - большой прямоугольник: длина = высота х 2 + ширина донышка + припуски (в числах 25х2+10+2=62 см), ширина по требуемому размеру + припуски (32 см)

- средняя часть из двух составляющих: застежки и боковинок.

            Для застежки: два прямоугольника длиной равной ширине сумки (30см) + 12 см; шириной равной половине ширины донышка + припуски (5+2).

            Боковинки  - два небольших  прямоугольника кроим на ширину донышка с припусками (12 см) и высотой сумки с припусками - 5 см (22 см)

- для ручек: 4 коротких прямоугольника по ширине металлических колец + припуски, длиной около 15 см, и 2 полосы такой же ширины, длиной около 45-50 см в зависимости от способа носки сумки (в руках, на локте или на плече).

- такие же 5 прямоугольников выкраиваем из подкладочной ткани

- скругляем по произвольному шаблону углы основных деталей

Должно получиться примерно вот так

3. Готовим детали сумки к сшиванию

- проклеиваем внешние детали дублирином (приклеиваем без пара по дублирину,оставляем деталь в покое до полного остывания)

3.1. Пришиваем карманы на подклад

- я выкраиваю карманы произвольных размеров на основную деталь, для боковин делаю карманы на всю ширину основной детали и пришиваю только нижний край

- если ткань мягкая, я проклеиваю кармашки тонким флизелином

3.2. Собираем среднюю часть сумки

- втачиваем молнию. Расстегиваем молнию, укладываем на лицевую сторону прямоугольника (42*7 см), закрываем такой же деталью подклада, прокладываем строчку. То же самое проделываем с другой стороной молнии. Следите чтобы края деталей были на одном уровне и припуски были одинаковы!

 

- отворачиваем детали, утюжим, прокладываем отделочные строчки

- боковинки (прямоугольники 22*12см) из основной ткани и подклада соединяем с застежкой, отворачиваем на лицо, отстрачиваем (последнее действие сфотографировать забыла)

3.3. Делаем донышко

- находим середину основной детали, вырезаем из уплотнителя прямоугольник (можно два) по ширине донышка без припусков!

- берем прочные и красивые ниточки и иглу с острой заточкой (я использую вот такие). Ниточки в машину заправляем только сверху (в шпульке оставляем обычную нить в тон)

- соединяем деталь сумки и уплотнитель  по центру, затем по направителю прокладываем строчки, я отстрачиваю с интервалом 2 см 

Получается вот так (фото с лицевой и изнаночной стороны) 

3.4. Пришиваем крепления для ручек

- на четырех коротких прямоугольниках рисуем с лицевой стороны по шаблону контур детали, ориентируемся на ширину кольца, один край скругляем, другой сужаем. Лишнее отрезаем, не забывая высечь треугольнички на скруглении, припуск заметываем на изнаночную сторону. 

* если ваша ткань послушна, припуск можно просто заутюжить

- на каждой детали отмечаем линию притачивания и линию сгиба детали (у меня это 4 и 8 см)

- прокладываем отделочную строчку до линии притачивания крепления к сумке

- размечаем на основной детали желаемое положение ручек и внутреннюю линию притачивания крепления для кольца 

- пришиваем суженый край крепления, прикладывая деталь по верхней линии

- одеваем кольцо, сгибаем деталь, совмещаем края с разметкой, притачиваем, начиная строчку с середины отмеченной линии притачивания, и заканчивая точно в этой же точке. Ниточки вытягиваем на изнанку, закрепляем

- размечаем и устанавливаем хольнитены (этот пункт по желанию:) 

4. Соединяем детали сумки

- складываем детали основы и подклада изнаночными сторонами, склеиваем паутинкой посередине и в местах скруглений

- отмечаем с четырех сторон серединки деталей, совмещаем, скалываем. Прочной двойной нитью сшиваем детали через край.

!!! Ширина шва не должна превышать размер припуска, иначе после стачивания деталей на машине снаружи будут видны ручные стежки

- прострачиваем на машине

- открытые срезы закрываем косой бейкой. Я пришиваю вручную каждую сторону бейки, захватывая только подклад.

* если вы пришиваете насквозь сразу обе стороны бейки, прокладывайте стежки НАД швом стачивания, чтобы после выворачивания сумки их не было видно

- выворачиваем сумку, отпариваем на руке, завернутой в полотенце :) (к сожалению этот процесс сфотографировать нереально)

5. Делаем ручки

- детали ручек проклеиваем дублирином средней плотности или мягкой клеевой бортовкой

- припуски заутюживаем на изнаночную сторону, отстрачиваем
- перед разметкой лучше приколоть обе ручки к сумке и откорректировать их длину по необходимости

- отмечаем линию сгиба и линию соединительной строчки (расстояние такое же, как на креплениях, у меня это 4 см) на фото почему-то только линия сгиба, вторая, видимо, появилась потом в процессе:)

- прокладываем соединительную строчку, закрепляя ручки (строчка должна начинаться и заканчиваться в точке пересечения с продольной отстрочкой)

 вы не используете хольнитены, прострочить лучше несколько раз

 ручки пополам и тонкой обычной нитью сострачиваем края ручек поверх декоративной строчки, стараясь закончить строчку максимально близко к кольцу.

- размечаем и устанавливаем хольнитены на ручках.

Вот и все:) Выдыхаем, любуемся результатом и идем отдыхать и размышлять над декором новой сумки:)

Кто дочитал до конца? А может, кто-то уже сшил сумку?:)

Или три:)))

Как сделать застежку-клевант

Сейчас большую популярность завоевали застежки-клевант. Застежки-клевант состоят из петли, пуговицы и детали крепления. Да, они есть в продаже. Разных размеров и цветов. Но когда ищешь что-то определенное, по закону подлости его нет в магазинах. Я сама столкнулась с такой проблемой. Ну захотелось на пончо сделать застежки-клевант, а именно того, что виделось, в продаже не оказалось. Ладно, решила сделаю сама! 

Вопрос первый: "из чего?". Можно было, конечно, купить шнур в магазине, но я решила связать гусеничку из любимых ниток "Tulip". Вы можете взять любые нитки или готовый шнур, или сутаж. 
Вопрос второй: "какая пуговица?". Для клеванте пойдет всё, что угодно. Можно свернуть пуговицу из шнура (ниже будет показано как). Можно взять готовую, ту, что вам нравится, той формы, которую вы нафантазировали. Хотя классические застежки-клевант делают из свернутого шнура. Я предлагаю вам ещё один вариант - обвязать бусину. 
Вопрос третий: "форма". Вариантов много. Я постаралась собрать как можно больше видов застежек-клевант, хотя найти их было сложновато... 

Итак. Покажу, что получилось у меня. Связала гусеничку. Поскольку застежки должны быть одинаковые, считала повороты, чтобы и шнуры получились одной длины. Обвязала бусины. Завернула шнуры, скрепила их той же ниткой. Пришила пуговицы-бусины к одной стороне, ву-а-ля, получились очень красивые, а главное необычные застежки для моего пончо: 
 

 
 

Как сделать пуговицу для застежки-клевант, несколько вариантов:

 
 

Варианты форм застежек-клевант:

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

МК "Декоративная застежка на сумке и жесткое дно в сумке"

Сумка сшита, МК заснят, но времени выложить нет...
И вот сейчас, когда вся семья тихо-мирно дрыхнет я покажу Вам некоторые моменты создания этой  своей крайней сумки: покажу как сделать декоративную застежку и как укрепить дно сумки.

Сделанная мною декоративная застежка ничто иное как  две рамки. Расскажу как это сделать.
 Берем деталь от сумки, которая предназначена быть клапаном и два маленьких кусочка замши или кожи размером чуть больше чем предполагаемая рамка.Намечает на маленьких кусочках саму рамку. ( Не смотрим на то что я начеркала на них, а только ориентируемся на рамку)

 

размечаем точно посередине место  рамки

 Прострачиваем ( только к одному слою клапана!!!), прорезаем отверстие и надсекаем уголки.

Выворачиваем и отпариваем

Складываем клапан вдвое  лицевыми сторонами и прострачиваем. Срезав уголки, выворачиваем и отпариваем.

Теперь откладываем клапан в сторону и берем полоску замши для хлястика. Шириной она должна быть равной ширине рамки +1 см, а длиной на несколько см больше чем расстояние от верха рамки до низа клапана.
На моем хлястике уголок острый. поэтому я разметила этот угол.

 

Сначала ставим одну часть магнитной застежки ( простите, фото стерлось). Сложив вдвое, прошиваем, оставив не зашитым верх. Срезаем лишние уголки, выворачиваем и отпариваем.

Отстрачиваем хлястик

 Нижнюю рамочку аккуратно отстрачиваем, захватив уже оба слоя. Аккуратно срезаем ткань от нижней части клапана, который попал в рамку. Получилось окошечко.

 Берем хлястик, вставляем его верхний кончик в верх верхней рамки на 0,5 см и прострачиваем.
Так же излишки срезаем.

Вот что получилось:

Ставим люверсы для красоты

Клапан готов!!!
Теперь расскажу как я делаю жесткое дно:
Раскраиваем дополнительную деталь, размером равным: длина=ширине сумки +2 см, ширина = ширине детали днища сумки.

  Когда начинаю вшивать дно  у сумки, то сложив деталь днища сумки и дополнительную деталь вшиваю их как одну  двойной строчкой ( для крепкости). С каждой стороны днища сумка припуск в 1 см застрачиваем наверх, надсекая уголки.

 Из пластика ( я использую  старую пластиковыю папку) вырезаем прямоугольник со сторонами равными: длина днища Х ширина днища-1,5 см и аккуратно вставляем в получившийся кармашек. Когда мы вывернем сумку, то те загибы наверх по 1 см не дадут выползать пластиковому вкладышу

Буду рада, если этот Мк кому-нибудь поможет. При использовани материала, ссылка на мой блог обязательна

Sometimes you want to travel light – with just the essentials at hand. For this, you need: the wristlet. A tiny, tidy tote that hangs from your wrist. It's just 5" x 7", but holds all the necessities with room to spare. Zip up your spending cash, a couple o' credit cards, maybe a bit of makeup and a comb. Ours has a detachable strap, so you can unclip it, and drop it into a bigger bag, like a handy wallet. So versatile, so itty-bitty cute, and with our excellent step-by-step instructions and photos ... so easy!

This is a perfect project to use up bits and pieces. Our wristlet was made from scraps of Heather Bailey's Freshcut we had leftover from the summer's Patio Party projects. We added a plain cream linen from our fabric stash, which coordinated nicely with everything. Our only purchases were a little interfacing, the zipper, and the hardware for the strap, which meant we still had a little folding money to put inside the wristlet.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome DC4030)
• Zipper foot

Fabric and Other Supplies

• Fabric scraps to work with the cutting dimensions shown below
• ½ yard medium-weight fusible interfacing
• ¼ yard light-weight fusible interfacing
• 7" zipper
• ¾" D ring
• ¾" swivel clip
• All purpose thread
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pencil
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Iron and ironing board
• Straight pins

Getting Started

Based on the diagram above, cut all the pieces listed below. These kinds of precise cuts of small pieces are best done with a rotary cutter, mat and see-through ruler. You'll get straighter edges and truer 90˚ corners.

For the bag:

A -- strap: 14" x 3"

B -- strap tab: 3" x 3"

C -- top front accent square: 2½" x 2½"

D -- top front rectangle: 6½" x 2½"

E -- bottom front: 8" x 4"

F -- back: 8" x 6"

For the lining:

G -- back lining: 8" x 6"

H -- front top lining: 8" x 2½"

I -- front bottom lining: 8" x 4:

From the medium-weight fusible interfacing:

C -- top front accent square: 2½" x 2½"

D -- top front rectangle: 6½" x 2½"

E -- bottom front: 8" x 4"

F -- back: 8" x 6"

G -- back lining: 8" x 6"

H -- front top lining: 8" x 2½"

I -- front bottom lining: 8" x 4:

From the light-weight fusible interfacing:

A -- strap: 14" x 3"

B -- strap tab: 3" x 3"

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Fusing all pieces

1. Match up each fabric piece with its corresponding interfacing piece. Following manufacturer's directions, use your iron to fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of each fabric piece. 
   
2. It's easy to tell which side is which on fusible interfacing by feeling it. Rub your fingers over both sides; the side with the fusing will feel slightly bumpy. Place the bumpy side against your fabric and press to fuse. Don't set the temperature on your iron too high. I like to fuse from the interfacing side first, then flip the piece over and iron from the fabric side. This way I can make sure there aren't any weird little folds or wrinkles on either side. However, lightweight interfacing tends to be very sensitive to heat and can ripple easily. In this case, I reverse my normal method, and fuse from the fabric side first - only lightly pressing (if at all) from the interfacing side. Again, read and follow the manufacturer's directions that come with your interfacing for best results. 
   

Bottom front panel

1. Take piece E (bag bottom front) and place it right side up on your work surface. Lay your zipper upside down (teeth facing down on the right side of the fabric). The edge of the zipper tape should be even with the fabric's raw edge. 
   
2. Lay piece I (lining bottom front), right side down, on top of piece E, sandwiching the zipper in between the two pieces of fabric. As above, line up the top raw edge with the edge of the zipper tape. Pin all three layers together, being careful to pin through just the top of the zipper. You need to be able to open and close the zipper; you can't do that if you've pinned through the whole thing. 
   
3. Fold back the lining (piece I) to reveal the zipper, and zip it open about half way. 
   
4. Fold the lining back down into position and take the assembled layers to your machine. Attach your zipper foot. Your needle should be in the left-most position. 
   
5. Stitch a ¼" seam. Go slowly. When you get to the middle, where you can start to feel you're approaching the zipper pull, stop with your needle in the down position. Twist your fabric around slightly and open up the layers so you can access the zipper. Be gentle! Carefully close the zipper. Re-position your fabric and finish sewing to the end. 
   
6. When finished and open, your lining piece should be on one side of the zipper and your front piece on the other. 
   
7. Fold lining and front piece wrong sides together, so the zipper stands straight up, and press. 
   

Top front panel

1. Switch your machine from the zipper foot back to the regular all-purpose foot.
2. Find piece C and piece D (the two pieces that make up the front top panel). Pin them, right sides together, along one 2½" edge.
3. Stitch, using a ½" seam allowance, to create one finished top panel piece 8" x 2½". 
   
4. You're now going to make another ‘fabric sandwich' out of the top panel pieces.
5. Place piece H on your work surface (the front top lining piece), right side facing up. Place the finished front bottom panel (from step 7 in the section above) on top of piece H, right side facing also facing up. Finally place, the stitched-together top panel (from step 3) as the final layer, wrong side facing up. Make sure the accent square is to your left. Line up the top raw edges with the edge of the zipper tape. Pin all three layers together, being careful to pin through just the top of the zipper. As before, you need to be able to open and close the zipper and can't do that if you've pinned through the whole thing. 
   
6. Fold up the top panel to reveal the zipper, and zip it open about half way. 
   
7. Fold the top panel back down into position and take the assembled layers to your machine. Re-attach your zipper foot. Your needle should be in the left-most position. 
   
8. Stitch a ¼" seam. Go slowly. Just like you did before, when you get to the middle, where you can start to feel you're approaching the zipper pull, stop with your needle in the down position. Twist your fabric around slightly and open up the layers so you can access the zipper. Be gentle! Carefully close the zipper. Re-position your fabric and finish sewing to the end.
9. Fold lining and front panel wrong sides together, up and away from the zipper. Press. 
   
10. Re-attach your regular sewing foot and top stitch 1/4" from each fabric edge on either side of the zipper. 
     
    

Strap and tab

1. Using your see-through ruler and fabric pencil, find and mark a center line through the middle of piece A and piece B. It's easier to work from the wrong side so you can easily see your line on the white interfacing. 
   
2. On both pieces, fold the sides in to meet in the middle. Press in place. 
   
3. Fold each piece in half again to end up with a ¾" finished width. Press in place. 
   
4. Edgestitch down the double-folded edge of both the strap and the tab to secure. 
   
5. Slip strap through swivel clip. Fold in half and pin raw edges together. 
   
6. Stitch strap ends together close to the raw edge – about ¼" is good. Go back and forth on the seam line several times to make sure the seam is secure. 
   
7. Flip strap right side out. The little seam you just made should now be pointing inwards. 
   
8. Slide the swivel clip from the folded side to the seam side – so the clip's ring is sitting right against the seam.
9. Re-attach the zipper foot, and make a seam across the strap, getting as close to the clip as you can. You are 'locking' the swivel clip into place at the seam end. Again, go back and forth along the seam line several times to make sure the seam is secure. 
    
   

Positioning the strap tab

1. Take your ¾" wide strap tab piece, fold it in half, and slip it through the D-ring, so the straight side of the ring sits against the fold.
2. Lay your finished bag front right side up on your work surface, and find the center point of the top panel's accent square.
   
3. Lay piece F (bag back piece) right side up, next to the front piece. Find the matching center point on the top RIGHT side of piece F. This is the position for your strap tab. 
   
4. Align the raw edges and pin the tab in place. Then, hand baste or machine stitch the tab in place with a short line of stitching close to the raw edge. 
   

Finishing - the final sandwich

1. Lay the finished bag front on your work surface, right side facing up. The zipper should be open about half way. 
   
2. Lay the back panel (with the strap tab in place) on top of the front, right side down (the right sides of these first two layers are facing each other). The strap tab with its D-ring should be facing into the middle of the sandwich, and in position over the top panel's accent square. 
   
3. Finally, lay back lining piece G on top, right side facing up. Match up the raw edges of all three layers so the bag is nice and square. Pin around all four sides. 
   
4. Re-attach the regular sewing foot, and stitch a ½" seam around all four sides, pivoting with the needle in the down position at each corner. Stitch with the front panel side facing up so you can see the zipper. GO SLOWLY. You are stitching though a lot of layers. When you stitch across the zipper on each side, make sure your seam line is crossing just below the zipper stop (right side) and just above the zipper teeth (left side). This will help insure your zipper opening is a perfect fit side to side.
5. Trim the seam allowances close to your stitching line on all four sides, and clip all corners at a diagonal. 
   
6. Turn the bag right side out through the zipper opening. Your strap tab should pop out from the left seam. Use a blunt edged tool, like a large knitting needle, to poke out the corners so they are nice and sharp. You can also carefully pull out the corners from the outside with a straight pin. Press well. 
   
7. Attach the swivel clip to the D-ring. 
    
    
   

At long last, the promised Bagsket Tutorial.
 

First off, thank you Claudine for posting her inspirational bag.
Full credit must also go to Diana. She and I worked through the first bag together and her guidance was invaluable. If you’re a knitter, make sure to check out her amazing FREE knitting patterns.
And finally, thanks susankg53 for the name…it’s perfect!

This is a great project for your scraps and I hope you have fun with it. As I’ve stated before, I am NOT an expert seamstress by any means, so I’m sure I’m doing things bass ackwards all over the place.

I would love love LOVE to see what you come up with.

This is a long tutorial with a fair number of pics. If anything is unclear, please email me (foofanagle at gmail dot com) and I’ll be happy to clarify. For those of you who are quick and crafty, here’s a summary of the steps…it may be all you need.

SUMMARY
Cut and assemble pieces
Sew basket (bottom, side, together)
Sew handles and add to basket
Add trim to pocket, sew pocket to inside lining, sew pockets
Iron drawstring flap and sew down top ends for neat drawstring opening
Sew down drawstring flap
Sew drawstring bottom to interior lining top
Sew lining to basket
Trim top of Bagsket and thread drawstring
Ta da!

Read on for the full tutorial in all of it’s badly photographed glory. (you can click on the photos to see a larger version)

Did I mention I’d love to see any bags you make using this tutorial?

::Bagsket – The Tutorial::

PIECES (for a bag that approx. 8 inches in diameter and 8.5 inches tall – for 12in diameter bag, see bottom of post)

Basket
9 inch circle of interfacing
9 inch circle of exterior fabric
29.3in x 9in interfacing
29.3in x 9in exterior fabric (top pieced strip = 29.3in x 4.5 in and bottom exterior strip = 29.3in x 5.5 in sewn together lengthwise with a ½ inch seam allowance.)

Bag
9 inch circle of interior fabric
29.3in x 9in interior fabric
29.3in x 4.5in interior fabric (pocket)
30.3in x 7in interior fabric (drawstring top)

Handles/Trim
2in x 15in (x4) of handle fabric
2in x 14in (x2) of interfacing
30 in of pocket lining double-fold trim
30 in of exterior top double-fold trim
30 in of rickrack, ribbon or trim

NOTES
Use a heavy interfacing like Timtex. I didn’t make it fusible, but that could potentially help when sewing the fabric to the interfacing.
Seam allowances for basting and seaming are different to ensure basting stitches don’t show

PUT IT ALL TOGETHER

Assemble your pieced strip. Have fun with this. It doesn’t really matter how many fabrics or angles etc that you use as long as you end up with the correct sized piece at the end. You can make the whole exterior pieced or use just two fabrics and on and on. If desired, sew decorative trim to exterior fabric. Play now (because the rest is a bit of work!)

Basket Construction:
Pin exterior bottom fabric to interfacing circle (wrong side of fabric to interfacing)

Baste together with a 1/3in seam allowance. We’re basically just holding the fabric to the interfacing. If you have fusible interfacing, you can skip the basting.

Pin exterior fabric to the interfacing rectangle
Baste together with a 1/3in seam allowance

With right sides facing, pin and sew the short ends of the side piece together with a ½ in seam allowance, forming a cylinder
Press seam to one side

Mark the 4 points on both the bottom and side piece.
(You can fold the circle/cylinder in half, mark the crease at each end, open and refold so the pins are together and mark the creases again.)

Line up a pin on the bottom with a pin on the side and pin together (making sure the interfacing side is on the outside on both the side and bottom)

Line up the remaining markers and pin the bottom to the side. Pin generously to ensure the pieces don’t slip apart as you sew.

Sew together the bottom and side piece with a 1/2in seam allowance. Make sure your seam “covers” the basting stitches (that’s why there’s a difference in the seam allowance when basting vs. seaming. Or you can do it haphazardly like I did and pick out the basting stitches later. That’s sooo much fun!
Here’s what the stitching should kinda look like…

This will take a bit of fiddling and manipulating. When you sew over the side seam, you may need to get a “running start” on your machine so that it powers through. If you have a walking foot…use it!

Turn the bucket right side out. I iron the sides of the bucket once more to smooth out the wrinkles that are inevitable when you turn the bucket.

Handle construction:
(I’m sure there’s a better way to do this…but this is how I made mine. And apparently I forgot to take pics of this step…but is pretty much exactly what I did for the headbands.)
With right sides of handle fabric facing, place the interfacing strip on top and pin all together
Sew down each side (length wise) wish a ¼ in seam allowance
Trim the seam allowance down to 1/8 in or pink the seam allowance making sure not to snip the stitches
Turn the tube right side out so that the interfacing is between the handle fabric now
Press
Sew down the side of the handle with a 1/8in seam allowance. When you reach an end, tuck the fabric ends in, making sure one side wraps around the raw end of the interfacing.
Turn the corner and sew the ends, turn and sew up the other length of the handle with the 1/8in seam allowance.
Repeat the end treatment on the other end of the handle, sew to your starting point and snip your thread.

Repeat for the second handle.

Attach handles to the side of the basket
Ends of handles should be about 3.5 inches from the top of the basket and about 4 inches apart from each other.
Pin handle ends in place

Sew handles down in a reinforcing square.

It takes a bit of mushing and smooshing to get this done, but you can do it! Iron the sides of the bucket one more time if you think they need it.

PHEW!

Bag Construction

Sew trim to the top of the pocket edge

Sew pocket to lining along the bottom seam and sew (trimmed edge is towards the top)

Sew pocket lines down at whatever intervals you’d like. I like some narrow and some wide pockets to help hold a variety of notions and tools.
Drawstring Top:
Fold in both sides 1/2” and iron (this is so you have a nice opening for your drawstring)
Fold down ¼” from the top of the fabric and iron. If you’re using a print, you should be folding so that the wrong side of the fabric is inside the fold.

Fold down another 1” from the top and iron. This creates the pocket for you to pull the drawstring through.

Sew down the length of the drawstring fold using a 1/8” seam allowance from the folded edge.

With “inside” sides facing, pin the drawstring fabric to the top edge of the side lining and sew together

Line up edges of the inside lining and sew together at the ends (make sure the pockets are in).

**NOTE** Do not sew together the drawstring opening and make sure to line up the drawstring seam line and the top of the pockets when you sew together

Now for a nice clean look, do a pseudo-French seam along the drawstring flap (you don’t need to go all the way down the lining since only the drawstring flap shows both sides of the fabric.)
Basically, fold/roll the seam of the flap back onto itself. Press it down, pin it and sew it down so that the seam and raw edge is enclosed.

(Yeah, I know my instructions on this part are particularly bad.)

As you did with the bottom of the bucket, mark the 4 points of the bottom round and the bottom of the inside lining.

Pin the bottom round to the lining and sew together with a ½” seam allowance

This is what it looks like with the INSIDE out (when you put it in the basket, you’ll want the pockets on the inside.)

Guess what! You’re ALMOST there! Let’s bring it all together now.

Tuck the lining into the bucket. Make sure the drawstring flap is tucked inside the lining.
Pin the lining to the bucket all the way around the top.

Sew along the top (you’re sewing through the bucket and the drawstring/lining side edges) to secure the lining to the bucket using a ¼” seam allowance. The key here is to sew close enough to the top of the bucket so that the stitches won’t show after you apply the binding.

Are you still hanging in there?!

FINALLY…line up the end of the wide trim with the bucket side seam. Sew the trim to the top of the bagsket. Make sure you catch both sides of the trim as you go. Take your time on this…I recommend pinning (I didn’t pin and I regret it since I didn’t catch a couple of spots of the inside trim.) When you reach the end, fold the end of the trim under so you have a nice neat end when you get back to the side seam.

Guess what! You’re all done! CONGRATS!

For a Larger Bag (12 in in diameter and 12 in tall)
Basket
12 inch diameter circle of interfacing
12 inch diameter circle of exterior fabric
38.7in x 12.5 in interfacing
38.7in x 12.5 in exterior fabric (top pieced strip = 38.7in x 5.5 in and bottom exterior strip = 38.7in x 7 in sewn together lengthwise with a ½ inch seam allowance.)

Bag
12 inch diameter circle of interior fabric
38.7in x 12.5 inch interior fabric
38.7in x 4.5 inch interior fabric (pocket)
39.7in x 9 inch interior fabric (drawstring top)

Handles/Trim
2in x 15in (x4) of handle fabric
2in x 14in (x2) of interfacing
38 in of pocket lining double-fold trim
38 in of exterior top double-fold trim
38 in of rickrack, ribbon or trim

I’m sure I made this more complicated than it has to be. If you have better ways of doing parts (or all) of this project, please let me know. I’d love to hear it!

Cut the following pieces from oilcloth.

(2) 8″ x 6.5″ front and back pieces
(2) 8″ x 4.5″ side pieces
(1) 4.25″ x 6.25″ bottom piece
(2) 16″ x 3.5″ handles

Make Alpaca Wool Sweater into Felted handmade Bag tutorial

Supplies:

• 1 – 13″ x 3″ piece for the handle
• 2 – 4 1/2″ x 12 1/4″ piece for the body and lining of the bag
• 2 – 12 5/8″ x 1 1/2″ with frayed edge pieces for the ruffle and the handle**
• 2 – 4 inch circles
• 1 – just under 4 inch circle Peltex for lining
• 1 – 4″ x 12″ Peltex for the lining
• 1 – 2″ x 42″(or width of fabric) with frayed edges for the flower**

Handle: 
To make the handle, fold in half lengthwise, and press.

As if you are making bias tape, fold again so that the raw edges meet the center fold. Press. Topstitch from each side down the length of the handle.

Set aside for now.

Ruffles
**Now let’s work on the ruffles. To make the edges frayed, you are going to snip about 1/4″ and then rip, rip, rip away. I ripped my pieces so that both edges are frayed. Part of the fun of this fabric is it is fairly natural looking. This frays extremely easily and adds texture to the piece.

Fold one ruffle piece in half lengthwise and press. Open up and use the pressed line to stitch a long basting stitch. Gather loosely by pulling one thread while holding the other one still. Repeat with the other ruffle piece.

Take one ruffle piece, tuck the end under and pin to the handle, 2 inches from the end.

Pin the ruffle leaving 2″ from each side. You can fold pleats in the ruffle if your gather wasn’t tight enough. I pinned the ruffle in a wavy fashion to give it a little character. But if you would rather, you can pin it straight. Sew down the center of the handle to keep the ruffle on the handle.

On the outside body piece, use a water soluble pencil (or light pencil because it will be covered with the ruffle) to mark 1 1/2″ from the top down. Mark all the way across the body piece.

Use the line to line up the second ruffle piece. Again, I pinned the ruffle to the body piece in a sort of curvy wave. I also made some pleats as needed. Sew the ruffle to the body.

With right sides together, pin the inside of the basket to the ruffled outer piece. Sew along the top edge. Press.

Turn the right sides out and press again.

We have to do a little frogging here. I find the easiest way to put the handles in is just a bit of unpicking. But if you would rather, you can pin the handle in before you sew the top of the basket together. The handle is fairly short and I find that way I have a harder time getting the handle straight.
I measure from the center of the basket top about 2″ out and unstitch the top 1 inch. From the other side I do the same. This leaves two holes bigger than the handles. (The handles are just there to show you how they will go. Wait a minute to put them in.)

Add your Peltex body piece now. I did this by lifting the outside layer and placing down the Peltex piece, then lay the top down over it so the right side is up and you have a nice sandwich of fabric, Peltex, fabric.

Insert the handles in the holes making sure the ruffle is facing out each time. This does make a loop for the handle. Pin in place. Top stitch along the top of the entire basket.

Top stitch again over the center of the ruffle, about 2″ down from that and finally just up from the bottom. This is to hold the three pieces of the body together.

Now, let’s sew the basket together. Fold the basket in half with wrong sides together. Sew along the edge of the basket.

Turn the whole basket right sides together and sew a 1/4 inch seam. This is going to cover the other seam and leave you with a French seam.

Take your two fabric bottom circle pieces and your Peltex circle. Make a sandwich with the fabric pieces on the outsides and the Peltex inside the sandwich. Zig-zag around the circle to keep them all together. With the right sides of the basket still together, pin the bottom circle to the bottom of your basket. Stitch the two pieces together. Go around it twice if you must.

You can turn your basket right side out now.

For the Flower:
Take your long piece and press it in half lengthwise. I leave it folded.

Prepare a long thread and needle. Remember this is Sew,Mama,Sew! not Hot Glue, Mama, Hot Glue! Slowly roll the flower up, making stitches in the folded end every 1/4 inch or so. More stitches are better because you really want to hold it all together. Continue to roll and stitch until your flower is the size you want or you run out of fabric.

Tuck the end of the flower under and stitch the flower securely. I took more stitches through the bulk of the flower now too to make sure it was all going to stay together nicely. I also fluffed the frayed edge a bit and pulled out and left some exposed fibers to give it more texture.

Hand stitch the flower to your basket and you are good to go!