Правильно назвать этот способ я затрудняюсь, есть разные варианты: итальянский с полой резинкой, трубчатый край, трикотажный шов по полой резинке. Этот способ я выудила из книги К. Бусс, поэтому обозначаю как закрепление иглой по Бусс.
Он одинаково хорош для резинок 1 на 1, 2 на 2, 3 на 3. В результате несложных манипуляций иглой вы получите опрятный, эластичный, как бы скругленный край бейки.


Резинка 2 на 2.

Для начала, петли нужно переставить таким образом , чтобы получилась разинка 1 на 1. Логично, переставлять петли и вязать первый ряд полой резинки.
Итак, кромочную снять, лицевую провязать, изнаночную снять (нить перед работой)

Следующие две петли нужно поменять местами. Для этого правую спицу ввести в обе петли движением справа-налево, снять петли.

И, развернув лицевой петлей вперед, надеть на левую спицу.


Лицевую провязать.

Изнаночную снять( нить перед работой)

Так выглядит фрагмент работы.

А так, полностью выполненный первый ряд полой резинки.

Дальше вязать три ряда полой резинки. 
Так выглядит подготовленный к закрыванию край.

Чтобы не ошибиться с длиной нити, необходимой для закрывания, очень хорош совет zuiki. Связать цепочку воздушных петель ( номер крючка равен номеру спиц) равную половине количества закрываемых петль плюс хвост для заправки в иглу. Распустить. Длина нити будет в самый раз( проверено неоднократно).


Собственно, закрывание состоит из трех движений иглой: 
1. Игла от себя , вертикально вверх, с захватом одной изнаночной петли.
2. Игла к себе, горизонтально справа налево, с захватом двух лицевых петель.
3. Игла к себе, горизонтально справа налево, с захватом изнаночной петли из п.1.

Теперь с картинками.

Три рабочих петли выделены красным цветом. Первая лицевая уже сброшена.

Начало работы. Изнаночная петля, движение вертикатьно от себя.

Нить аккуратно протянуть за работу.

Второе движение: горизонтально, справа налево иглой подхватить левую стенку первой лицевой петли и правую стенку второй лицевой петли. Изнаночная не в работе. Нить протянуть сквозь две петли и оставить перед работой.

Третье движение: горизонтально, справа налево подхватить изнаночную петлю.

Нить аккуратно затянуть.

И сбросить три обработанных петли со спицы. Повторять эту немудрящую последовательность до конца ряда.

Готовый вид.

The moment Honeycrisp apples make their seasonal debut at the Union Square Farmer’s Market, I start thinking about what I want to knit for my cold weather wardrobe. First on my list this year was a cape but not a fussy Little Red Riding Hood affair. Instead, I envisioned something more modern, something for layering over leggings on weekends and also for running errands in the city on weekdays.

Our own Purl Soho Alpaca Pure ensures that my City Cape is seriously cozy and soft. It pops right over your head but has a pretty open front for a breath of fresh air. And precisely positioned armholes at elbow height leave my hands free at the market to pick all the Honeycrisp apples I want! -Gina

Materials

• 9 (11) skeins of Purl Soho’s Alpaca Pure, 100% alpaca. This color is Timeless Navy.
• A US #9, 32-inch or longer circular needle
• A US #8, 20-inch circular needle
• A set of US #6 double pointed needles
• 4 stitch markers

Gauge

BODY

16 stitches x 36 rows = 4 x 4 inches with the larger circular needle in Woven Slip Stitch pattern (blocked)

COLLAR

20 stitches x 24 rows = 4 x 4 inches with the smaller circular needle in K2, P2 rib (relaxed)

Sizes

To fit chest circumference: 30 inches to 38 inches (38 inches to 46 inches)

• Finished circumference at bottom edge: 60 (66) inches
• Finished length from high point of shoulder to bottom edge: 22 ¼ (24) inches
• Finished neck circumference: 17 (19 1/2) inches

Notes

Sl1 (slip 1): Slip the first stitch of every row by slipping purlwise with the yarn in front, then bring the yarn to the back in order to work the next stitch. This makes a nice edge and will make the Attached I-cord simpler.

Sl1 wyib (slip 1 with yarn in back): Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back.

WOVEN SLIP STITCH PATTERN

Row 1 (wrong side): Sl1, *k1, sl1wyib, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Row 2 (right side): Sl1, knit to end of row.

Row 3: Sl1, *sl1wyib, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Row 4: Repeat Row 2.

Repeat Rows 1–4.

(The Woven Slip Stitch is worked over an even number of stitches.)

Pattern

NOTE: This pattern is available as a printable PDF. Just click here.

Using larger circular needle, cast on 240 (264) stitches. Do not join.

Begin

Work Woven Slip Stitch pattern (see Notes, above) until piece measures 7 (8) inches from cast on edge, ending with a wrong side row.

Armholes

Row 1 (right side): Sl1, k31 (35), [k2, p2] 9 (10) times, k2, k100 (108), [k2, p2] 9 (10) times, k2, k32 (36).

Row 2 (wrong side): Sl1, work 31 (35) stitches in Woven Slip Stitch pattern, [p2, k2] 9 (10) times, p2, work 100 (108) stitches in Woven Slip Stitch pattern, [p2, k2] 9 (10) times, p2, work 32 (36) stitches in Woven Slip Stitch Pattern.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 10 (11) inches from cast on edge, ending with a Row 2. (Because the ribbing portion of the Armhole has a different row gauge than the Woven Slip Stitch pattern, please measure the length over a section of only Woven Slip Stitch pattern).

Next Row (right side): Sl1, k31 (35), k2, p2, bind off 30 (34) stitches, p2 (first purl stitch is last stitch from bind off), k2, k100 (108), k2, p2, bind off 30 (34) stitches, p2, k2, k32 (36). [180 (196) stitches]

Next Row (wrong side): Sl1, work 31 (35) stitches in Woven Slip Stitch pattern, p2, k2, turn and cable cast on 29 (33) stitches, turn, pick up and knit 1 stitch from row below (where bound off stitches began), k2, p2, work 100 (108) stitches in Woven Slip Stitch pattern, p2, k2, turn and cable cast on 29 (33) stitches, turn, pick up and knit 1 stitch from row below (where bound off stitches began), k2, p2, work 32 (36) stitches in Woven Slip Stitch pattern. [240 (264) stitches]

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 13 (14) inches from cast-on edge, ending with a Row 2.

Decrease for Yoke + Increase for Front Overlap

Row 1 (right side): Sl1, k31 (35), place marker (pm), k58 (62), pm, k60 (68), pm, k58 (62), pm, k32 (36).

Row 2 (wrong side): Work in Woven Slip Stitch pattern to end, slipping the markers as you come to them. Yoke Decrease Row (right side): Sl1, [knit to 2 stitches before marker, k2tog, slip marker (sm), ssk] 4 times, knit to end. [8 stitches decreased]

Work 3 rows even in Woven Slip Stitch pattern.

Repeat the last 4 rows two more times, then repeat the Yoke Decrease Row once more. [208 (232) stitches: 28 (32) stitches before first marker and after fourth marker, 50 (54) stitches between first and second markers and third and fourth markers, 52 (60) stitches between second and third markers]

Work 1 row even in pattern.

Front Increase Row (right side): Sl1, knit into front and back (kfb), knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1. [2 stitches increased]

Work 1 row even in pattern, working new stitches into pattern.

Repeat the last 2 rows three more times, then repeat the Front Increase Row once more. [218 (242) stitches]

Work 3 rows even in pattern.

Next Row (right side): Repeat the Front Increase Row. [2 stitches increased]

Repeat the last 4 rows two more times. [224 (248) stitches]

Work 1 row even in pattern.

Next Row (right side): Repeat the Front Increase Row. [226 (250) stitches]

Work 3 rows even in pattern.

Next Row (right side): Repeat the Front Increase Row. [228 (252) stitches: 38 (42) stitches before first marker and after fourth marker, 50 (54) stitches between first and second markers and third and fourth markers, 52 (60) stitches between second and third markers]

Work 1 row even in pattern.

Piece should now measure approximately 18 (19) inches from cast on edge.

Yoke Decrease Row (right side): Sl1, [knit to 2 stitches before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk] 4 times, knit to end. [8 stitches decreased]

Work 3 rows even in pattern.

Repeat the last 4 rows two (three) more times, then repeat the Yoke Decrease Row once more. [196 (212) stitches]

Work 1 row even in pattern.

Next Row (right side): Repeat the Yoke Decrease Row. [8 stitches decreased]

Work 1 row even in pattern.

Repeat the last 2 rows eight (nine) more times. [124 (132) stitches: 25 (27) stitches before first marker and after fourth marker, 24 stitches between first and second markers and third and fourth markers, 26 (30) stitches between second and third markers]

Shape Neckline

Row 1 (right side): Bind off 20 stitches, (1 stitch remains on right needle from bind off), k2 (4), k2tog, sm, ssk, k20, k2tog, sm, ssk, k22 (26), k2tog, sm, ssk, k20, k2tog, sm, ssk, knit 23 (25). [96 (104) stitches]

Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 20 stitches, work in Woven Slip Stitch pattern to end. [76 (84) stitches]

Row 3: Sl1, k1 (3), k2tog, sm, ssk, k18, k2tog, sm, ssk, k20 (24), k2tog, sm, ssk, k18, k2tog, sm, ssk, k2 (4). [68 (76) stitches]

Row 4: Sl1, k2tog, work in Woven Slip Stitch pattern to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. [66 (74) stitches]

Row 5: Sl1, k1, [ssk] 0 (1) time, remove marker, k2tog, k16, k2tog, remove marker, ssk, k18 (22), k2tog, remove marker, ssk, k16, k2tog, remove marker, [ssk] 0 (1) time, k2. [60 (66) stitches]

Row 6: Sl1, k2tog, work in Woven Slip Stitch pattern to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. [58 (64) stitches]

Row 7: Bind off all stitches.

Finish Front Opening Edge

With right side facing and using the double pointed needles, work a 4-stitch Attached I-cord along both front opening edges, picking up one stitch for every slipped front edge stitch, beginning at the neck edge for the left front and at the bottom edge for the right front. Overlapping the right side over the left side, align the two 20-stitch bound off neck edges and pin them together.

Collar

Using the smaller circular needle and with the right side facing you, rejoin yarn at center back neck edge. Pick up and knit 32 (36) stitches from center back neck to front left neck, just before overlapped edges begin. Continue to pick up and knit 20 stitches across overlapped bound off edges, making sure to insert the needle through both bound off edges as you pick up each stitch, thus joining the two layers together. Pick up and knit another 32 (36) stitches along right neck edge, stopping when you reach the first stitch you picked up. [84 (92) stitches]

Place a marker and join to work in the round.

Round 1: *K2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat Round 1 until Collar measures 6 inches from picked up edge.

Bind off loosely in pattern.

Weave in ends and block as desired. Enjoy your City Cape!