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Difficulty: **

Recommended fabrics: soft draping silk

You will need: satin lining, separating zipper.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting:

Fabric:

1. Front part center –2 details
2. Front part side - 2 details
3. Back part center - 1 detail
4. Back part side –2 details
5. Cup – 2 details
6. Draping detail of cups – 1 detail
7. Front facing – 1 detail
8. Back facing – 2 details
9. Strap – 2 details

Lining:

1. Front part center – 2 details
2. Front part side - 2 details
3. Back part center - 1 detail
4. Back part side –2 details
5. Cup – 2 details
6. Strap – 2 details

Recommendations on sewing sheer material. Do not draw contours via carbon paper on material, for they will be visible on the right side. The simplest way is to cut all details with equal allowances and sew edges on equal width.

Instructions:

1. Tack lining and fabric details and then sew them as usual (as fabric only).

2. Sew bust darts into cups.

3. Sew front part centers, front part princess seams.

4. Sew back part princess seams.

5. Sew right side of the top.

6. Tack lining and chiffon straps. Fold straps along the center and topstitch on 1 cm (3/8") width from the bend. Turn straps right side out, then press and sew to cups.

7. Make drapes into the detail to be draped. Make large machine stitches along both sides of front part center line and along side edges. Do not gather details on the string.

8. Tack draping detail to upper edge of front part, with draping detail edge opened between marks.

9. Sew cups to front parts.

10. Turn draping detail upward and gather it on lower strings to front center line up to 4 cm (1-5/8") height and along side edges up to cups side edges. Fold the stripe along the center and make a stitch 1 cm below the bend. Turn the stripe put and fold with it draping detail along front center lines. Sew stripe ends on the wrong side. Tack the detail. To avoid hanging drapes, you can invisibly sew them to cups by hand.

11. Press front/back part left sides into the wrong side and sew the zipper.

12. Sew front and back facing together and oversew facings outer edges.

13. Overstitch upper edge of the garment with facings. Turn the facings and topstitch seam allowance on 0.1 mm (very close) from the edge.

14. Turn the facing wrong side out and topstitch it to the zipper.

15. Fit the straps and sew their back ends under back upper edge.

16. Press the hem into wrong side and topstitch.

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Difficulty: *

You will need: sheer natural fabric.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting :

Fabric:

1. Back part - 1 detail
2. Left front part - 1 detail
3. Right front part - 1 detail
4. Long waistband - 1 detail
5. Short waistband - 1 detai

Instructions:

1. Sew front/back darts. Press darts.

2. Sew shoulder seams, serge them. Press shoulder seams backwards.

3. Serge front/back neckline edges, sleeve hems. Turn front/back ready allowances under and topstitch them at 0.5 cm (3/16") from edge. Turn one-piece sleeve's hem ready allowances and topstitch at 0.5 cm from edge.

4. Serge side seams. Side seams leaving a slit into left side seam; press side seams apart. Serge the hem, then turn under and topstitch.

5. Fold the waistband along the center and overstitch along both edges. Turn waistband right side out and press it. Edgestitch waistband edge. Sew the waistband to left front part. Serge joining seam and topstitch it.

6. Serge side edge of short waistband. Apply the waistband to right front part and overstitch by three edges. Turn the waistband right side out and press it. Edgestitch waistband edge.

You can trim waistband end with buckle.

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Difficulty: **

You will need: denim, a cord, fusing.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting :

Fabric:

1. Center front part - 2 details
2. Placket - 2 details
3. Side front part - 2 details
4. Center back part - 2 details
5. Side back part - 2 details

Fusing: placket.

Instructions:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of placket.

2. Sew front and back princess seams. Press allowances towards the center front or center back. Topstitch princess seams at 0.5 cm (3/16").

3. Sew back middle seam, and serge it. Press back middle seam towards right back part. Make decorative seam at 0.5 cm (3/16") from joining seams.

4. Sew shoulder and side seams, then serge them. Press side/shoulder seams backwards. Topstitching at 0.5 (3/16”) cm from joining seams.

5. Serge front/back neckline edge, front part edge and garment hem edge. Topstitch ready edges on the garment at 0.5 cm from edge.

6. Press placket outer edge at 1 cm (3/8"). Fold the placket along the center, right side together, and press. Overstitch upper/lower corners of placket. Cut extra fabric at corners, and turn the placket right side out. Press the placket. Sew placket raw edge to middle edge of center front part.

7. Cut a stripe of fabric for button loops of 3 cm (1-1/8") width. Fold the stripe along the center and make a stitch at 0.5 cm from bend, overstitching one end. Turn the stripe right side out and press. Cut loops of 6 cm (2-3/8") length.

8. Tack loops to placket pressed edge. Topstitch the placket on center front part. Remove tacking. Turn loops towards center front part and topstitch them on the placket.

Difficulty: *

Recommended fabrics: lightweight fabrics of natural or artificial fibers.

You will need: shell fabric, lining, 1 button.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting:

Shell Fabric:

1. Center Back– 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Center Bottom Front – 2 pieces
4. Side Bottom Front – 2 pieces
5. Top Front – 2 pieces

Lining:

1. Center Back– 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Center Bottom Front – 2 pieces
4. Side Bottom Front – 2 pieces
5. Top Front – 2 pieces

Instructions:

1. Sew Center Bottom Front to Side Bottom Front. Serge seam allowances and press them towards center front.

2. Sew Top Front to Center and Bottom Fronts. Clip allowances, serge and press upwards.

3. Sew princess seams of Back. Serge seam allowances; press them towards center back. Sew center back seam. Serge seam allowances; press them to one side.

4. Sew side seams. Serge the seams, press towards center back.

5. Sew pieces of lining similar to shell. Leave shoulder seams unsewn.

6. Line up shell and lining face-to-face, pin together at raw edges. Sew lining to shell at armholes, back neckline and top front. Clip allowances of neckline, armhole, mark a notch at Top Front as marked in pattern. Turn the garment to the face side, press.

7. Insert raw shoulder edges of Front between shoulder edges of Back. Turn under raw edges of Back, baste all the layers together, stitch shoulder seam.

8. Cut a stripe of shell fabric for loop 3 cm (1-3/16”) wide. Fold the loop lengthwise in half, stitch at 0,5 cm (3/16”) from the fold, as well at across one short end. Turn out and press the stripe. Cut a loop of needed length, baste it to the right Front.

9. Line up shell and lining face-to-face, pin and stitch all the way from horizontal seam of Top Front to the princess seam at Back. Clip allowances, turn the blouse out through the opening at Back (between two princess seams). Turn inside and press bottom allowances of Center Back. Edgestitch lining to shell at the opening at bottom of Center Back.

10. Make gathers at Top Front; you might want to use a decorative tape. Sew button for closure at waist, at the wrong side of left Front.

Difficulty: *

Recommended fabrics: soft cotton or combined fabric.

You will need: fusible interfacing.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting:

Fabric:

1. Front part - 2 details
2. Back part - 1 detail
3. Front facing - 2 details
4. Sleeve - 2 details
5. Cuff - 2 details
6. Collar – 2 details
7. Stand-up collar – 2 details

Fusible interfacing: front facing, outer collar, cuff, stand-up collar.

Instructions:

1. Strengthen the front facing, outer collar, cuffs and outer stand-up collar with fusible interfacing.

2. Sew waist darts into back part.

3. Oversew inner edge of the front facing. Overstitch the front part with front facings up to the notch, then turn faint bands into wrong side and press.

4. Make gathering along the front part center seam and sew.

5. Sew shoulder seams.

6. Sew side seams.

7. Overstitch inner collar with outer one. Turn the collar right side out.

8. Sew stand-ups, with collar between them.

9. Sew inner stand-up (with the collar) to the neckline, fold the outer stand-up open edge under and topstitch along the inner stand-up joining seam. Make decorative topstitch along the collar. Topstitch the edge. Sew front facings on shoulder seams with stitch of 1 cm (3/8") width.

10. Sew sleeve seams.

11. Sew sleeves into arm hole, fitting along caps.

12. Fold cuffs right sides together. Sew short ends into ring. Make a notch into allowance (near split), with slit in the seam center. Fold cuffs right sides together, stitch edges.

13. Sew cuffs to the sleeve hem and oversew cuff upper edge with the sleeve.

14. Topstitch the cuff-on-sleeve joining seam and make decorative seam along cuff bottom and slit sides.

15. Press the hem into wrong side and topstitch.

Difficulty: **

Recommendations: lightweight linen, cotton, silk or rayon fabrics and knits.

You will need: Lightweight linen fabric; fusible interfacing; 7 buttons.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting:

Main Fabric:

1. Front one-piece-cut with Lower Collar – 2 pieces
2. Back -2 pieces
3. Front Facing, one-piece cut with Upper Collar – 2 piece
4. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces

Fusible Interfacing: Front Facing one-piece cut with Upper Collar.

Instructions:

1. Reinforce with fusible interfacing the following pieces: Front Facing one-piece cut with Upper Collar.

2. Sew darts of Front and Back, sew center back seam.

3. Sew shoulder seams, clip allowances in the corners of collar.

4. Place Fronts face-to-face, stitch at raw edge of collar.

5. Sew Collar into neckline between corners.

6. Sew center back seam of Collar/Front Facings. Serge inside edge of each Front Facing up to the shoulder seam. Place Front Facings onto Front face-to-face, stitch together at center front.

7. Cut seam allowance in the corner of each Front Facing. Turn out the collar, turn Front Facings to the wrong side. Baste and press the edges. Turn under raw edge of Upper Collar and topstitch right into the seam of attaching the Lower Collar. Hand-sew Front Facings to Fronts at shoulder seams.

8. Sew side seams.

9. Sew Front and Back Sleeve pieces together (both front and elbow seam of each sleeve).

10. Sew sleeves into armholes, slightly gathering at sleeve head.

11. Turn under hem allowances of sleeves and blouse, topstitch.

12. Make buttonholes into the right front; sew buttons at the left front.

Difficulty: *

Recommended fabrics: mixed knitted fabric.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting:

Fabric:

1. Left front part - 1 detail
2. Right front part – 1 detail
3. Left drape – 1 detail
4. Right drape – 1 detail
5. Back part - 1 detail

Our advice: To make the fabric along stitched seams stretch, sew details with narrow zigzag or with special stretchable stitches. To make the hem stretch, oversew hem allowance with special oversew stitches (overlock), and then sew it using double needle. This is also attachable to other edges that should stay elastic.
These recommendations are not for industry.

Instructions:

1. Oversew outer edges of drapes, then fold under and topstitch.

2. Gather fabric on shoulder edges of drapes.

3. Overstitch left front part neckline with drape.

4. Overstitch right front part with drape coinciding left front part with notches.

5. Oversew front/back parts arm hole allowances, then fold under and topstitch.

6. Oversew back neckline allowance, then fold under and topstitch.

7. Sew shoulder seams.

8. Oversew drape shoulder allowances, then fold under and topstitch.

9. Make pleats into drape side edge. Sew side seams.

10. Oversew garment hem, then fold under and topstitch.

11. Tuck tie ends. Fold ties along the center and stitch on 0.7 cm (1/4") from the fold center. Turn tie into right side, then press. Sew ends. Sew ties to shoulder seams.

Difficulty: **

You will need: denim, fusing, cotton lining, 6 buttons, a cord and 22 eyelets.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting :

Fabric:

1. Center back part - 2 details
2. Side front part - 2 details
3. Center front part - 4 details
4. Side front part - 2 details

Lining:

1. Center back part - 2 details
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Side front part - 2 details

Fusing: center front part.

Instructions:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of center front part.

2. Sew front and back princess seams and press them apart.

3. Sew side seams and press them apart.

4. Sew shoulder seams and press them apart.

5. Lay reinforced front central part on center front part, right sides together. Overstitch front facings and front neckline with front central part, stopping 5 cm (2") before shoulder edges.

6. Sew lining details. Press the lining.

7. Apply the lining to the garment right sides together, then sew to inner edges of front central part. Sew shoulder edges of lining and center front part shoulder edges. Overstitch back neckline and raw part of front neckline. Leave slits of 10 cm (4") length into lower part of armholes, and overstitch armhole upper parts. Cut seam allowances close to stitch. Pull front parts into right side through shoulder slits and turn the garment right side out through one of open side seams. Serge lower parts of armholes.

8. Press the hem to wrong side and sew by hand. Sew center front part to hem.

9. Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons on left one.

10. Male eyelets into center back part and pull the cord.

Difficulty: **

Matrial: soft silk and viscose.

You will need: fusible interfacing; 3 buttons.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting:

Fabric:

1. Front part - 2 details
2. Back part - 1 detail
3. Front facing - 2 details
4. Sleeve - 2 details
5. Collar - 2 details
6. Lapels – 2 details

Cut 2 fabric ties of 3 cm (1-3/16") width.

?usible interfacing: front facing, outer collar, lapel.

Instructions:

1. Strengthen the front facing, outer collar and the lapel with fusible interfacing.

2. Sew bust darts into front part and waist vertical ones into front/back parts.

3. Sew shoulder seams.

4. Sew side seams.

5. Sew inner lapel to inner collar.

6. Sew upper lapel to outer collar.

7. Overstitch inner collar and lapel with outer collar and lapel, then turn into right side and press.

8. Tack inner edge of front facings.

9. Overstitch right front part with front facing, inserting the lapel and collar. Make a notch into outer collar and bend it. Sew inner collar to back neckline, make one more notch into outer collar and overstitch left front part with front facing.

10. Turn front facings into wrong side. Oversew and press edges. Fold the outer collar open edge under and topstitch along the inner collar joining seam. Sew front facing into shoulder seams with 1 cm (3/8") width stitch.

11. Sew sleeve seams.

12. Press sleeve hem into wrong side and topstitch along drawstring marking.

13. Tuck tie ends. Fold ties along the center and stitch on 0.7 cm (1/4") from the fold center. Turn tie into right side, then press. Sew ends. Pull ties into drawstring loop.

14. Sew sleeves into armholes, fitting along caps.

15. Oversew garment hem, then fold under and topstitch along the edge.

16. Work button holes into right part. Sew buttons to left one.

Difficulty: **

You will need: Silk or other fabric for a blouse; fusible interfacing; 3 buttons; elastic 1/4” wide and about 50 cm (20”) long.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting:

Silk:

1. Center Front- 2 pieces
2. Side Front - 2 pieces
3. Center Back - 2 pieces
4. Side Back - 2 pieces
5. Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
6. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Front Facing – 2 pieces
8. Collar – 2 pieces with folds
9. Facing for Elastic – 1 piece
10. Facing for Elastic at Sleeves - 2 pieces
11. Back Neck Facing – 1 piece with Fold

Fusible Interfacing: using hot iron, fuse interfacing to Front Facing, upper Collar piece, Back Neck Facing.

Instructions:

1. Cut elastic into 4 pieces: 2 pieces 10 cm (4") each – for sleeves and 2 pieces 15 cm (5-7/8") each for blouse sides.

2.Stitch center back seam and vertical seams of Back.

3. Stitch vertical seams of Fronts.

4. Sew Front Sleeves to Fronts, Back Sleeves to Back. Press seams.

5. Take each Facing for Elastic at Sleeve, fold under allowances and press. Place Fronts onto Back, face-to-face, and sew upper sleeve seam. At the wrong side of Sleeve, place Facing for Elastic, baste and topstitch along the long sides. Insert elastic into the tunnel, stitch to close the tunnel at one short side, picking up the elastic. Pull another end of elastic to get the right length and stitch the tunnel the same way.

6. Sew lower sleeve seams and side seam in one go. Press.

7. Prepare Facings for Elastic for blouse sides as you did in pt.5. Sew Facings to sides of blouse according to markings. Insert elastics and stitch tunnels at both sides as you did in pt.5.

8. Assemble the collar: place Collar pieces face-to-face, stitch along the outer edge, clip seam allowances, turn out and press. Take both raw edges of Collar together and baste the Collar into blouse neckline. Sew Back Neck Facing to Front Facings. Place Back Neck Facing/ Front Facings to blouse face-to-face, stitch along center front, lapels and neckline, attaching the collar at the same time.

9. Turn Front Facings/Back Neck Facing to the inside, baste along the seam and press. Hand-sew the Back Neck Facing to allowances of shoulder seams.

10. Serge bottom hem and sleeve hems. Turn under hem allowances and hand-sew to blouse bottom/ sleeve bottoms.

11. Make buttonholes into right Front, sew buttons to the left Front.

Difficulty: **

You will need: crepe, elastic braid, 5 buttons.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting :

Fabric:

1. Center back part - 1 detail
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Center front part - 2 details
4. Side front part - 2 details
5. Edge placket - 2 details
6. Neckline edging - 1 detail
7. Armhole edging - 2 pieces (3 cm (1-3/16") wide and about 50 cm (20") long -refer to your pattern for armhole length)
8. Tie - 2 details (2.5 cm (1") wide and 25 cm (10") long)

Instructions:

1. Sew front princess seam and back princess seam. Press seam allowances towards the center.

2. Sew shoulder seams, press allowances apart.

3. Overstitch armholes with edging. Sew edging ends together. Turn the edging to garment wrong side. Turn edging allowance in and topstitch along edge.

4. Overstitch neckline edge with edging, right sides together. Turn edging to garment wrong side. Turn edging allowance in and topstitch along edge. Cut elastic brain into two pieces and pull into neckline coulisse. Fix braid ends. Stitch ties neatly, to 0.5 cm (3/16"), and turn right side out.

5. Process placket upper corner, folding it along center wrong side out and overstitching along upper edge. Turn the placket right side out, press long edge allowances into. Insert tie end and front facing into placket and tack. Topstitch the placket at 0.2 cm (1/16"). Sew blouse side seams, press seam allowance apart.

6. Fold hem allowance under and topstitch at 0.7 cm (1/4").

7. Make 5 buttonholes into right placket and sew buttons on left one.

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Difficulty: **

Recommended fabrics: chiffon silk, lightweight transparent fabrics.

You will need: shell fabric; lining; invisible zipper.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting:

Shell Fabric:

1. Top Back – 1 piece
2. Center Back – 2 pieces
3. Side Back – 2 pieces
4. Top Back Insert – 1 piece
5. Bottom Back Insert – 1 piece
6. Top Front – 1 piece
7. Center Front – 1 piece
8. Side Front – 2 pieces
9. Top Front Insert – 1 piece
10. Bottom Front Insert – 1 piece
11. Front Skirt Panel – 1 piece
12. Back Skirt Panel – 1 piece
13. Side Skirt Panel – 1 piece

Lining:

1. Top Back – 1 piece
2. Center Back – 2 pieces
3. Side Back – 2 pieces
4. Top Back Insert – 1 piece
5. Bottom Back Insert – 1 piece
6. Top Front – 1 piece
7. Center Front – 1 piece
8. Side Front – 2 pieces
9. Top Front Insert – 1 piece
10. Bottom Front Insert – 1 piece
11. Front Skirt Panel – 1 piece
12. Back Skirt Panel – 1 piece
13. Side Skirt Panel – 1 piece

Instructions:

Advice: horizontal seams can be trimmed with ruches.

Measure length of all horizontal seams, cut a stripe 5 cm (2”) wide and 2-3 times the length of all measured seams. Turn under twice and topstitch raw edges of the stripe at two short and one long sides. Machine-baste at raw edge of stripe, pull threads to make gathers. Measure your ruche to make sure its length corresponds (about 2” longer) length of measured seams. When sewing a horizontal seam, insert ruche into the seam, between the layers of shell, taking all raw edges together.

1. Sew Center Front and Side Fronts. Sew Center Backs and Side Backs. Serge seam allowances, press towards center. Sew right side seam. Serge the seam, press towards Back.

2. Sew together Top Front and Top Back at right side seam. Sew Top Front Insert and Top Back Insert at right side seam. Sew Bottom Front Insert and Bottom Back Insert at right side seam. Serge seam allowances, press towards Back.

3. Sew horizontal seams of assembled Front/Back units, inserting a ruche into each seam. Serge allowances, press upwards.

4. Sew left side seam from the bottom up to the top edge of Bottom Inserts, leaving an opening for zipper. Serge allowances, press them open. Press allowances at zipper opening as well. Baste and sew invisible zipper into the side seam opening.

5. Sew side seams of Skirt. Serge seam allowances, press towards Back. Turn under twice the vertical raw edges at front of skirt, topstitch. Baste and stitch the skirt to the top of dress, inserting a ruche.

6. Assemble lining pieces in a similar manner, leaving an opening for zipper in the left side seam.

7. Cut a stripe for Shoulder Strap. Fold the stripe lengthwise in half, face side inside, and stitch at 0,5 cm (3/16”) from the fold. Turn out Shoulder Strap, press. Cut the Strap in half. Sew each Shoulder Strap to the neckline of Front.

8. Put on the dress, adjust length of straps, sew ends to the Back neckline.

9. Line up Center Back piece with lining of Center Back face-to-face, pin or baste. Turn under lining around zipper closure, 0.5 cm off the zipper, pin to the neckline edge of dress. Sew top of dress to lining at top edge. Understitch the seam. Turn the lining to the wrong side, hand-sew to the zipper tape.

10. Finish bottom hem of dress, turning under and topstitching hem allowance. Trim lining at bottom if necessary and finish the lining hem similar to shell, but so that the lining is 2 cm (3/4”) shorter than dress.

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Difficulty: **

Recommended fabrics: lightweight fabrics of natural or blended fibers.

You will need: shell fabric, lining (you can use shell fabric for lining pieces), invisible zipper tape, fusible interfacing.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting:

Shell Fabric:

1. Center Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Back Tie – 4 pieces
4. Top Front Insert – 2 pieces
5. Middle Front Insert – 2 pieces
6. Bottom Front Insert – 2 pieces
7. Inside Cup – 2 pieces
8. Outside Cup – 2 pieces
9. Side Front – 2 pieces
10. Shoulder Strap – 4 pieces
11. Front Skirt – 1 piece
12. Back Skirt – 1 piece

Lining:

1. Center Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Top Front Insert – 2 pieces
4. Middle Front Insert – 2 pieces
5. Bottom Front Insert – 2 pieces
6. Inside Cup – 2 pieces
7. Outside Cup – 2 pieces
8. Side Front – 2 pieces

Instructions:

1. Reinforce all Cup parts with fusible interfacing.

2. Sew Outside and Inside Cup pieces together. Serge seam allowances, press towards center.

3. Sew Middle Front Insert to the Top and Bottom Front Inserts. Serge seam allowances, press towards Middle Insert.

4. Sew Front Inserts’ unit to the Side Front. Serge seam allowances; press towards center front.

5. Sew Side Back to Front. Serge seam allowances, press towards Back.

6. Sew Cup unit to the assembled top unit. Serge allowances, press towards Cup.

7. Sew center front seam. Serge seam allowances, press.

8. Assemble lining pieces in a similar manner.

9. Baste and sew invisible zipper into the center back seam.

10. Line up Center Back piece with lining of Center Back face-to-face, pin or baste. Turn under lining around zipper closure, 0.5 cm (3/16”) off the zipper, pin to the neckline edge of dress. Sew top of dress to lining at top edge. Understitch the seam. Turn the lining to the wrong side, hand-sew to the zipper tape.

11. Line up Back Tie pieces face-to-face and stitch together at three sides (two long, one short). Turn out the Ties, press.

12. Sew Back Ties and Center Back piece to the Side Back. Serge seam allowances, press towards side seam.

13. Line up Shoulder Strap pieces face-to-face, stitch around at three sides. Turn out and press Shoulder Strap. Sew Shoulder Strap to the Cup.

14. Turn Shoulder Straps, Back Ties and Center Back to the face side, pin to keep in place. Place lining over the top of shell, so that the tops and face-to-face. Stitch lining to shell at three sides: Center and Side Back, and along the top edge. Clip allowances; turn out lining to the wrong side, press the top edge.

15. Assemble pieces of skirt. Serge seam allowances, press towards Back.

16. Sew Top to Skirt. Serge seam allowance, press towards skirt.

17. Serge bottom edge of the dress, turn under hem allowance and topstitch at 0,5 cm (3/16”) from the bottom edge.

Difficulty: **

You will need: natural or mixed fabric, invisible zipper, lining, elastic braid.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting:

Fabric:

1. Center upper front part – 1 piece
2. Side upper front part – 2 pieces
3. Center lower front part – 2 pieces
4. Middle lower font part – 2 pieces
5. Side lower front part – 2 pieces
6. Gusset – 12 pieces
7. Side lower back part – 2 pieces
8. Center lower back part – 2 pieces
9. Side upper back part – 2 pieces
10. Center upper back part – 2 pieces
11. Middle lower back part – 2 pieces
12. Sleeve – 2 pieces

Lining:

1. Center back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Center upper front part – 1 piece
4. Center lower front part – 1 piece
5. Side front part – 2 pieces

Fusing: front/back armholes’ facing.

Instructions:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front/back armholes’ facing.

2. Stitch bust darts and press them towards the center.

3. Stitch bust darts into upper front part lining. Press darts towards the center. Stitch front lining to back lining. Serge joining seams and press them backward. Serge lining hem, press it into wrong side and topstitch. Serge lining middle edge, stitch up to closure notch and press it apart.

4. Stitch the gusset to center lower front part, serge joining seam 4 cm (1-5/8") above the notch. Stitch middle seam of center lower front part to gusset side edge and serge it. Press middle seam pressing gusset’s side edge.

5. Stitch the gusset to middle lower front part; serge joining seam 4 cm above the notch. Stitch middle lower front part (with gusset) to center lower front part. Serge joining seam and press it pressing gusset side edge.

6. Stitch center upper front part to center lower part; serge joining seam and press it downwards. Stitch side upper front part to side lower part. Serge the seams joining side front parts and press it downwards. Stitch the gusset to side front part, serge joining seam 4 cm above the notch. Stitch relieve edges of front part and gusset side edge, serge relieve seams and press them pressing gusset side edges.

7. Stitch the gusset to center lower back part, serge joining seam 4 cm above the notch. Stitch middle lower back part to center lower back part. Serge joining seam and press it pressing gusset side edges.

8. Stitch center upper back part to center lower back part, serge joining seam and press it downwards. Stitch the gusset to side back part, serge joining seam 4 cm above the notch. Stitch the gusset to middle back part to gusset side edge, serge relieve seams and press them pressing gusset side edges.

9. Stitch the gusset to side front part, serge joining seam 4 cm above the notch. Stitch dress/gusset side seams. Serge side seams of gusset. Press side seams pressing gusset side edges.

10. Stitch the gusset to right center back part. Serge right middle back edge and gusset side edge. Serge left middle back edge and gusset side edge. Stitch middle back seam and gusset’s left side edge up to closure notch. Press middle back seam apart, press gusset side edges and closure slits. Stitch the zipper into middle back seam.

11. Stitch dress shoulder edges and press them apart.

12. Lay the lining on the garment right sides together, then overstitch neckline edge. Under stitchfront/back lining. Adjust lining middle edge and dress middle edge and fix them together near the zipper.

13. Make the stitch with easy loops along shoulder cap between notches, at 0.5 cm (3/16") from edge. Pull sleeve edge as wished. Serge sleeve hems, fold them under and topstitch at 1.2 cm (1/2") distance. Cut elastic braid according to size and pull pieces into sleeve lower allowance. Stitch sleeve edge and serge it. Press joining seam.

14. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.

15. Serge dress hem, fold it under and topstitch at 1 cm (3/8") from lower edge.

Difficulty: **

You will need: silk, satin or brocade fabric; fusible interfacing; invisible zipper (refer to your pattern for zipper length); bias tape; 3 rayon braid frog closures.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting :

Shell Fabric:

1. Stand-up Collar - 2 pieces
2. Back part - 2 pieces
3. Front part - 1 pieces
4. Upper Front part - 1 pieces

Fusible Interfacing: Stand-up Collar (1 pieces).

Instructions:

1. Apply fusible interfacing to wrong side of lower Stand-up collar.

2. Sew front bust dart and press it downwards. Sew front/back waist darts and press them towards the center front/ center back.

3. Finish curved (bottom) edge of Upper Front part and curved edge of Front part with bias tape – insert raw edge into folded ready-made bias tape, baste and topstitch at bias.

4. Serge side edges of Upper Front, Front and Back parts, as well armhole edges. Sew shoulder seams; serge allowances; press them backwards.

5. Sew right side seam of Upper Front part and press it open. Sew right side seam stopping at notch for side slit; press seam allowances open.

6. Sew left side seam between the notch for zipper closure and side slit. Press side seam allowances open; press under allowances of side slit. Baste zipper into opening in left side seam. Sew the zipper in. Sew right side seam leaving a slit unstitched.

7. Turn under armhole allowances and topstitch.

8. Sew center back seam. Serge allowances, press.

9. Line up pieces of Stand-up Collar face-to-face, baste and stitch at three outer sides. Slash allowances at rounded corners of Stand-up Collar; turn the Collar right side out and press. Sew outer (reinforced piece) Collar into neckline. Turn under neckline allowance of inner Collar, press. Baste inner Collar to the neckline. Stitch in the ditch of neckline seam to attach inner Collar. Edgestitch Stand-up Collar.

9. Measure length of slits to make sure they’re even. Cut the hem to even it out, if necessary. Serge bottom of dress. Finish slit corners - turn hem allowance to the face side, baste and stitch with a vertical seam at slit allowance fold. Turn out the corners to the right side, press. Fuse vertical allowances of side slits to the dress, inserting sheer double-sided fusible tape between layers of shell.

10. Turn under and press hem allowance. Topstitch the hem.

11. Sew frog closures to the garment as per pattern markings.

Difficulty: *

You will need: natural/mixed fabric, invisible zipper, lining.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting:

Fabric:

1. Center back part - 2 pieces
2. Side back part - 2 pieces
3. Side front part - 2 pieces
4. Center front part - 1 piece

Lining:

1. Center back part - 2 pieces
2. Side back part - 2 pieces
3. Side front part - 2 pieces
4. Center front part - 1 piece

Instructions:

1. Serge front/back relieve seams, stitch them and press apart.

2. Serge shoulder/side seams and stitch them. Press side/shoulder seams backwards.

3. Serge lining middle edge, stitch it up to closure notch and press it apart, pressing zipper slits. Stitch lining details together and serge them. Press lining seams backwards. Serge lining's lower edge, fold it under and topstitch.

4. Stitch dress middle seam up to closure notch and press it apart. Stitch the zipper in.

5. Lay the dress and the lining together and overstitch neckline edge. Under stitch front/back lining. Overstitch armhole upper segment, them overstitch armhole lower segment. Topstitch allowances of armhole overstitching on lining at 0.2 cm from overstitching. Fold lining middle edge and stitch it to dress allowance at closure segment.

6. Serge dress hem, fold it under and topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16") from lower edge. Make the petticoat of fishnet or buy ready one.

Difficulty: *

You will need: sheer flax; fusing; 12 buttons; bias tape.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting:

Fabric:

1. Side front part - 2 details
2. Front part - 1 detail
3. Triangle gusset - 2 details
4. Back part - 2 details
5. Placket - 4 details

Fusing: packet.

Instructions:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of placket.

2. Lay placket details together and overstitch placket outer edge. Topstitch overstitching allowance on placket at 0.2 cm (1/16") from seam. Serge placket outer edge.

3. Sew the placket to front part. Topstitched placket sergeed edge along seam joining the placket. Press ready placket.

4. Sew triangle gusset to front part. Serge joining seam and press frontward.

5. Serge lower edge of front lower part. Press allowance and topstitch at 0.5 from (3/16") lower edge.

6. Make buttonholes into placket. Fix front part and side front part along side seam and along front neckline edge.

7. Serge back middle edge. Sew back middle seam and press it apart. Sew side edges of garment and serge them. Press side seam backwards.

8. Press the bias tape along the center and overstitch edges of: front/back neckline, front/back armholes.

9. Sew shoulder seams and press backwards. Serge the hem, press it under and topstitch. Sew buttons.

Difficulty: *

You will need: crepe-de-chine; fusing; zipper.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting:

Fabric:

1. Back panel - 2 details
2. Back central part - 2 details
3. Back side part - 2 details
4. Front side part - 2 details
5. Front central part - 1 folded detail
6. Front facing - 1 folded detail
7. Back facing - 2 details

Fusing: apply the fusing to wrong side of front neckline facing and back neckline facing.

Instructions:

1. Sew front and back princess seams. Slash a corner in front part when stitching. Sew side/shoulder seams.

2. Sew back panel to front one. Gather skirt upper edge and sew it to dress upper part, right sides together.

3. Sew back middle seam downwards from closure mark. Serge seam allowance and press them apart, press closure slit edges. Sew the zipper in with its teeth hidden.

4. Sew shoulder/side seams of facings. Fold facings to main detail, right sides together, and overstitch along edges of neckline and armholes. Pull facings right side out through shoulder alit, fold them out and topstitch them on seam allowances at 1-2 mm (1/16") from stitch. Fold facing free ends under near the closure, and sew them to zipper braid. Fix facings under armholes.

5. Fold the hem 1 cm (3/8") into wrong side and sew by hand.

Difficulty: **

You will need: panne velvet; elastic lace, lining, fusing, zipper.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting :

All panne velvet details must be cut out in same direction (along pile direction)!

Fabric:

1. Middle back part - 2 details
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Middle front part - 2 details
4. Side front part - 2 details
5. Middle back panel - 2 details
6. Side back panel - 2 details
7. Side front panel - 2 details
8. Middle front panel - 1 folded detail
9. Back neckline facing - 2 details
10. Front neckline facing - 2 details
11. Back armhole facing - 2 details
12. Front armhole facing - 2 details

Lace:

1. Back insert - 2 details
2. Front insert - 1 folded detail

Lining:

1. Middle back part - 2 details
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Middle front part - 2 details
4. Side front part - 2 details

Fusing: apply the fusing to wrong side of back neckline facing, front neckline facing, back armhole facing, front armhole facing.

Instructions:

1. Sew front and back princess seams (fabric and lining). Line up lining and fabric parts wrong sides together, baste at allowances and process as the single part. Sew side/shoulder seams.

2. Sew side edges of lace inserts. Sew insert upper edges to lower edges of dress upper part right sides together. Press allowances upwards and slash middle front insert allowance.

3. Sew princess and side seams of skirt (bottom part of dress). Sew middle back seam between hem and mark. Sew the skirt to lace insert's lower edge, press allowances towards the skirt.

4. Press closure slit allowance to wrong side, sew the zipper under slit edges.

5. Sew neckline facings together. Sew armhole facings together. Sew facings to garment right sides together. Fold facings out and topstitch on joining seam allowance at 1-2 mm (1/16") from the seam; then press. Fold free edges of back neckline facings under and sew them to zipper braid. Fold lower ends of front neckline facing under and sew them to seam joining the insert.

6. Press hem allowance to wrong side and sew with blind stitches.

Difficulty: **

Recommended fabrics: Fabrics of natural or blended fibers.

You will need: shell fabric; transparent shiffon silk for trim, invisible zipper, fusible interfacing, button.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting:

Shell:

1. Center Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Center Front – 2 pieces
4. Side Front – 2 pieces
5. Front Facing – 4 pieces
6. Back Facing – 4 pieces
7. Shoulder Strap - 4 pieces

Chiffon Silk:

1. Top Back – 2 pieces
2. Top Front – 2 pieces

Instructions:

1.Reinforce Back Facings, Front Facings and Shoulder Straps (2 pcs only) with fusible interfacing.

2. Mark and sew darts at Back, press towards center. Sew shoulder seams. Sew side seams of Top Front and Top Back. Serge seams, press towards Back. Serge armhole raw edges, turn under and topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16”). Serge raw edges at center back, turn under and topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16”).

3. Line up two pieces (reinforced and non-reinforced) of Shoulder Straps, stitch at the inside raw edge and zipper edge. Clip allowances, turn out, press Shoulder Straps.

4. Sew outer side of Shoulder Strap to the Top Front and Top Back, matching the notches. Press seam allowances towards Shoulder Strap. Turn under allowance of Shoulder Strap at the wrong side of garment, baste to Top Front/Top Back. Stitch in the ditch of Shoulder Strap seam. Press Shoulder Straps.

5. Sew Front Facings and Back Facings together at side seam. Press seam open. Line up Facings face-to-face, insert Top Back and Top Front in between, so that reinforced half of Strap is applied to reinforced half of Facings. Stitch the Facings together at two sides: short edge of Front Facing and top edge of Facings. Turn out, press.

6. Sew princess seams of Front and Back. Serge allowances, press towards center.

7. Serge center front edges of Fronts. Sew center front edge between the notches. Press seam open, press slits’ allowances.

8. Sew side seams. Serge seam allowances, press towards Back.

9. Apply Facing to top edge of dress face-to-face, sew. Press allowances towards Facing. Sew center back seam up the notch for zipper. Press seam open, press down allowances of slit. Baste and sew zipper into the opening in center back seam. Zipper must reach top edge of Facing.

10. Turn under raw edge of Facing, sew to allowances around zipper. Press.

11. Serge bottom edge of dress, turn under hem allowance, topstitch at 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the bottom edge.

12. Work buttonhole into the shoulder strap, sew button.

Difficulty: *

You will need: sheer natural fabric; invisible zipper; bias tape.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting:

Fabric:

1. Center front part - 1 detail
2. Center front flounce - 1 detail
3. Side front part - 2 details
4. Side front flounce - 2 details
5. Side back part - 2 details
6. Side back flounce - 2 details
7. Middle back part - 2 details
8. Middle back flounce - 2 details

Instructions:

1. Sew center front flounce to front part. Serge joining seam and press it towards center front part. Sew the flounce to side front part. Serge joining seam and press it toward side front part.

2. Sew the flounce to middle back part. Serge joining seam and press it toward middle back part. Sew the flounce to side back part. Serge joining seam and press it toward side back part.

3.Sew relieve edges of center front part and side front parts together. Serge joining seam and press it toward center front part.

4. Sew relieve edges of center back part and side back part together. Serge joining seam and press it toward center back part.

5. Serge middle back edges. Sew back middle seam up to closure notch. Press joining seam apart, pressing closure slit. Sew the zipper in.

6. Sew dress side seams. Serge joining seams and press the backwards. Press the bias tape along the center. Overstitch front/back neckline edges and front/back armhole edges.

7. Sew dress shoulder seams and serge them. Press shoulder seams backwards. Serge flounce hem. Press it to wrong side and topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16") from the hem.

Difficulty: *

You will need: knitwear; fusing; double needle.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting :

Fabric:

1. Front part - 1 folded detail
2. Back part - 2 details
3. Sleeve - 2 details
4. Neckline decorative detail - 2 folded details

Fusing: outer side of neckline decorative detail.

Instructions:

Apply the fusing to wrong side of outer side of neckline decorative detail.

Sew back middle seam and side seams. Press allowances apart.

Sew sleeve seams. Press sleeve hem allowances into wrong side and topstitch at 2 cm (3/4") with double needle.

Sew sleeves into open armholes. Press allowances of front/back seams (in armhole upper parts).

Fold outer and inner decorative neckline detail along the center, right side together, then sew back edges. Press allowances. Apply both decorative details right sides together, and pin neckline edges. Sew. Cut seam allowances close to stitches; slash rounding and front middle line toward the stitch. Turn decorative detail right side out. Overcast the edge and press it, then tack open edges. To prevent front corner from peeling off, apply a small piece of fusing to wrong side on marking of decorative details' joining seam. Pin the decorative detail into neckline, from middle of neckline to back middle seam, coinciding marks of decorative detail's joining marks and crosswise marks. Decorative detail's outer part must be on garment right side. Sew decorative detail in, making fix stitches at the beginning and at the end of seam.

Slash front allowance at front middle line to last stitch. Sew the second half of decorative detail in, from front middle line to back middle seam. Make fixes at beginning and end of the seam. Overcast both allowances of decorative detail joining seam, press towards front part, back part and sleeves.

Press the hem into wrong side, then topstitch at 2 cm (3/4") with double needle.

 15 мин (ваши 15 мин)

 Практика   05.02.13

 

 Juss   11.11.08

 

 5 порций по 300 ККал

 1 час 30 мин (ваши 25 мин)

 Rambutan   29.12.12

 

 

Durante el tiempo en el que El Baúl ha abierto su puerta para que principiantes, novatos o aficionados a la costura, encuentren una guía de inicio a la costura, se han recopilado gran cantidad de patrones de costura en diversas web que ponen a disposición para su descarga gratuita. En este apartado les dejamos algunos de los moldes para vestido que iremos actualizando poco a poco.