Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.

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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.

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A quick Google search reveals that Naeem Khan can nab more red-carpet credits in one month than many of his competitors do in an entire year. No doubt, several of the evening gowns from his new Pre-Fall lineup will turn up during the upcoming awards season. More than likely, starlets will gravitate toward the dazzling looks decorated with Khan

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Gilles Mendel is known for long, fluttering eveningwearthe stuff of Hollywood red carpets, especially relevant given that awards season coincides with the Pre-Fall collectionbut lately he has turned his attention to the shorter, the sportier. Dare one say daywear? There were skirtsuits but, overall, not quite. With zoos' worth of fur, Mendel's "day" is not exactly 9 to 5. But recent seasons have seen him working to balance J. Mendel's traditional extravagant elegance with something more like ease. (It is still, he admits, "close to decadence.")

Spring moved in this direction, but the many themes Mendel pursued made the effort come off a bit confused. For Pre-Fall, things were in better order. There were still disparate strandsa passage of fur-trimmed, double-faced cashmere coats in pop colors had a sixties zing but felt out of place with the lotbut on the whole, the focus on shorter, sharper shapes clarified the intent. If the geometric shifts and biker-style jackets weren't necessarily the most original, you'd be hard-pressed to find them elsewhere in fabrications like these: "cavallino" hand-painted to resemble tweed, leather tufted to suggest bouclй. Furs were herringboned or houndstoothed.

Skeptics will endureto say nothing of antifur typesbut Mendel is riding high, not least because of the recent opening of his new boutique on Madison. It's a showroom as well as a lab for his efforts. "There's no compromise," he said. Doing particularly well, he added, was a room of the most luxurious of his ultra-luxurious wares. "I call it the millionaire room," he said. (A publicist stepped in, Austin Powers-style, to note that, really, it should be the billionaire room.) Future stores are being considered for Russia and Asia. He who laughs last laughs richest.


Matthew Schneier

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Last season, Markus Lupfer began moving away from the slogan sweaters that have lately defined his career. With Pre-Fall, that trajectory continues. He included just one novelty knit. "Leave me alone," it declared, a statement that neatly summed up the moodier girl he's designing for now. She's "the older, meaner sister of my girl from previous collections," he said. Where last season's cat motifs were cute and cuddly, here they were rather more confrontational. A graffiti print added to the toughened-up look.

Merino wool was once Lupfer's other calling card, but he's expanding his repertoire in terms of fabric. Of particular note was a brocade tweed with an iridescent sheen, a high-tech cotton jacquard in an oversized floral print, and a glossy velvet accented with diagonal gold zips, which we're betting will be a customer favorite. Silhouette-wise, things were short and sexy; there were frilly-hem mini and skater dresses in profusion. Next up, Lupfer will be designing eyewear with Linda Farrow.
Afsun Qureshi

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Hot on the heels of opening the brand's first international flagship (an ambitious space in Soho) and a prodigal return to NYFW, Sass & Bide has kicked things up a notch for its debut Pre-Fall offering. Gold! Glisten! Chunky stone accents! It's the kind of easy opulence that will surely pit smart party girls against their checking accounts. The basic jumpsuit got a swank revamp, outfitted with metallic-gold basket-weave detailing, and fluid maxi skirts, paired with generously beaded boxy tops, proved the Gatsby spirit has a bit of life in it yet. The label's signature Deco-tribal accents were ever-present, adorning the cuffs of a luxe trench, trimming slouchy pants, and generally adding flair. But designers Heidi Middleton and Sarah-Jane Clarke haven't been shy about their penchant for sharply contrasting aesthetics, so for every ounce of more cosmopolitan chic, there was a bit of naturalism. It came most literally in avian prints, seen on a bomber/track pant set, as well as a particularly exquisite bone jacket, where embroidered birds bore tropical blooms. Elsewhere, there were asymmetrical, buttery shearling vests with moto details, baggy cropped cords, and dense, handsome knits. All told? Seems like 2014 may shape up to be an even bigger year for the brand.
Kristin Anderson

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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.

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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.

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Nicole and Michael Colovos designed Pre-Fall in the midst of a New York heat wave. It gave them fresh appreciation for lightness and layering, two apparently contradictory ideas that formed the crux of the new collection. Layering was so central to their story this season that they created short dresses with multiple hems to produce a trompe l'oeil effect. Other times, the designers piled as many as four different items into one look; in that case, what was imperative was keeping their fabrics as weightless as possible. No wrong moves there. Leather blazers, for instance, came with wool sleeves, or else a biker silhouette was whipped up in simple cotton. The cotton jacket was a thoughtful experiment, but it had nothing on the actual oversize Perfecto they cut in supple black leatherwhen something works, it works. As a motif, lightness continued into the shoes, a relatively new category for the Colovoses. Their oxfords are not only constructed from perforated leather, they're backless, too.
Nicole Phelps

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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.

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Henry Holland's Pre-Fall House of Holland muse is a naughty English boarding school girl whose extracurricular activities (horses, boy bands, and boys in general) clearly have the edge over studying. A far-too-short scalloped-hem tweed skirt conjured memories of headmistresses screaming bloody murder, as did a pair of teeny-tiny denim shorts with frayed edges and embroidery. Meanwhile, varsity jackets got a refresh with sequin embellishments and a new three-quarter length. Collaborating with illustrator Hattie Stewart, Holland produced some hilarious jersey pieces inspired by the movie poster for True Romancerequired viewing for angst-ridden adolescents everywhere. Then there was the jogging suit emblazoned with the word giddy-up. If anything can distract a boy-crazy teenager, it's a pony.

The collection had all of Holland's quirky hallmarks, but the quality appears to have seriously grown up. The wools are from an English mill, while a sumptuous teddy bear-like fabric was woven into a blazer and used extensively on hats and scarves. The collection's clear-cut winner, a silk jacquard Lurex-shot pantsuit, was artfully created from a repeat pattern of prefect badges. Holland reports that he's opening up shop-in-shops in Bangkok and China. Also coming soon: a line of jewelry and stick-on nail art.
Afsun Qureshi

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With three major exhibitions this year, it's no wonder that James Turrell's reverie-inducing LED fixtures have inspired multiple fashion labels, including, most recently, Escada. The famed artist's plays on light and hues were a fitting reference given the brand's history of experimenting with bold color combinations, and the latest lineup featured saturated "skyspace" shades like blue sapphire, pink tourmaline, and purple tanzanite. Those jewel tones were incorporated into such pieces as draped charmeuse tops and matching cigarette pants, as well as a color-blocked fur coat with detachable leather sleeves. Elsewhere, design director Daniel Wingate and co. spotlighted Escada's heritage leopard spots on outerwear items, a statement-making tuxedo, and even a long-sleeve evening dress. Other highlights here included tailored separates decorated with mirrored accents that resembled shards of glass; a fun, feathered LBD; and a slim column gown with a panel of shimmering copper sequins down the front. Those looks brought back a bit of Escada's familiar flash, which had been largely absent for several seasons.
Brittany Adams

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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.

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"Not activewear fashion, but fashion that's active," is how Victoria Bartlett described her recent philosophy shift at VPL. Long before other designers latched on to the sporty trend en masse, Bartlett was creating athletic-inspired clothes that both she and her customers often wound up wearing during workouts. So it made sense when, beginning with Spring 14, the designer started using high-tech fabrics that wick away moisture, offer UV protection, or even nourish the skin. (SeaCell, in particular, incorporates seaweed fibers, which promote the release of nutrients.)

While these new and improved VPL pieces now perform better than ever at the gym, they still make strong sartorial statements on city sidewalks and beyond. Bartlett demonstrated their range with her creatively styled lookbook. Second-skin leggings were layered underneath rolled-up, asymmetric track pants, and the label's signature sports bras were worn backward. Other highlights here included a bomber jacket/sweatshirt hybrid, color-blocked tube skirts, and breathable knit pullovers featuring harness-like bands that curve around the shoulders. A standout pair of polar-fleece sweatpants, which were tailored to resemble relaxed men's tuxedo trousers (but still had an elastic waistband) nicely exemplified Bartlett's fusion of fashion and physicality. Forward-thinking ideas like hers beg for a collaboration with a major sports brand such as Nike.
Brittany Adams

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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.

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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.

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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.

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In recent seasons, Monique Lhuillier has focused on addressing the day-to-day needs of her customers, who remain loyal to the designer's red carpet-ready evening gowns but are also requesting smart separates and cocktail attire that still feels special. At a showroom preview, Lhuillier described her latest Pre-Fall lineup as "a bit more streamlined and urban." She demonstrated a flair for tailoring with a navy tuxedo cape, slimming boot-cut trousers, and a mannish topcoat that complemented a graphic shift featuring allover harlequin diamonds and a tough leather harness detail at the neckline. Lace is always a strong category for Lhuillier, and she showed it in a variety of charming ways here, notably on a delicate bomber jacket and a long, cutaway shirtdress that looked modern paired with pants. Elsewhere, she took the doily stuff in a more familiar, feminine direction with long-sleeve sheaths and A-line frocks that collaged together pieces of appliquйd lace in a rainbow of pretty jewel tones. In addition to those after-hours standouts, Lhuillier's fans will also go for her new collection of shoes, which includedfor the first timeseveral pairs of elegant flats. "More than ever, women are conscious of being comfortable," she said.
Brittany Adams

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Amid all of the organic textiles and artisanal elements (tassels, fringe, tapestry embroidery) that have been in play this season, Elie Tahari's clean, sporty lineup felt fresh and different. Referencing Pierre Soulages' bold, graphic paintings, Tahari whipped up athletic-inspired items like lacquered linen parkas, relaxed silk track pants, and a curve-hugging neoprene dress that featured panels of raw-edged tweed and a matte scuba zipper down the front. The designer's new outerwear was sidewalk-ready, with highlights including a crackled white biker jacket as well as a boxy car coat cut from featherweight spongy mesh. His signature sheaths also received the technical treatment and were updated in bonded, laser-cut leather.
Brittany Adams

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Mulberry is currently steward-less. Former creative director Emma Hill's last collection was for Spring '14, and the brand hasn't yet filled her slot. But commerce must soldier on, so Hill's team stepped in to design the Pre-Fall collection. The result was a fine, fairly straightforward bit of Mulberry-ana, to be filed under the usual category headings of Cute and Pop. The team channeled menswear, picking up traditional English men's styles (Arran knits, houndstooth, paisleys) and giving them a girlish goose. Those paisleys were sequined and appliquйd onto a matching top-and-pant set, the houndstooth writ large onto an oversized coat with drooping lapels (the best examples of which came with button-out leather-and-shearling vests). The knits were the strongest in terms of immediate appealincluding solid Arran entries into the newly hot fisherman's sweater competition, with split seams and turtleneckswhile the scarf-tied pieces came off a little sweet. But as this is a business built on bags, that's where the real news was: in a wider, buckled version of the Bayswater and a two-tone Campden envelope clutch. They ought to keep sales brisk until a new designer is named.
Matthew Schneier

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