Cut fabric into strips measuring 1 inch by 2 yards.
2
needle and spools image by Marina Bartel from Fotolia.com
Pull embroidery thread through the eye of the needle and double the thread on itself, to create a double-strand thread at least 1 yard in length. Cut the spool end of the thread and tie ends together in a reinforced knot.
3
paper folds image by Stepanov from Fotolia.com
Choose a fabric strip and gather the first few inches into a wave fold. Draw the needle through the centre of the gathered fabric and pull the thread until the knot catches. Continue to fold and gather material until you reach the end of the strip. Tie a simple knot to hold the bunched fabric in place.
4
Align another strip of fabric below the first. Starting from the end you just finished, fold the second strip of fabric and sew as with the first.
5
Continue to add strips of fabric, working back and forth with a continuous line of thread, until the rug has reach the desired length. If the thread runs out as you are working, cut the thread from the needle, tie a reinforced knot, and hide the knot within a fabric fold. Thread the needle again and continue the shirring process from the same spot. When the rug is at the desired length, cut the thread and tie into a reinforced knot.
6
Rethread your needle with thread 3 to 4 inches longer than the length of the rug.
7
Sew strips of fabric together lengthwise. Feed the thread through the first wave fold all the way through to the end of the rug, then secure with a knot. Repeat on the opposite side of the rug.
8
Cut the rug liner to the size of the rug, save 1 inch on both length and width. Lay the rug flat and centre the liner onto the rug, then sew it into place around all sides.
Shirred Rug ~ by Debbie Arcaro
Recently, I became the owner of a lot of blanket weight wool yardage and
Only in pure merino would I ever use solid pink, and it would have to be a deep shade. It's just not my colour. :)
These socks are the first of my knit and purl stitch stripe socks. Since alternating rows of stocking st and reverse stocking st tend to curl under each other and shorten the length of fabric, they're kinda funny looking when off the foot, but comfy nonetheless. The other unusual feature is that there is no turning of the heel.
I used a heavy dk, so you could use a dk or a worsted.
The name? Well, if you haven't yet, have a look at the image below, and you'll see where I got my inspiration. :)
100g (3 1/2 ounces) dk or worsted weight merino wool yarn, (about 250 metres altogether - 280 yards), I used Zara Extrafine Merino.
set of four double pointed needles - I used 4.00 mm, but would have used 3.50 mm if they'd been available at the time
fits women's medium-large (about nine-ten inches - 23-25 cm - in length)
Cast on 38 sts - 12/14/12.
Work 20 rounds of k1 p1 ribbing. You can work more or fewer rounds if you like.
Knit 1 round.
Purl 2 rounds.
Knit 3 rounds.
Repeat these last 5 rounds 8 times altogether.
Purl 2 more rounds, you'll have 9 reverse stocking stitch ridges altogether.
Heel flap: *slip 1, knit 1* across first 10 sts, place last 2 sts onto ndl 2, turn.
*Slip 1, knit 1* across 20 sts, place last 2 sts onto ndl 2, turn.
Repeat *slip 1, knit 1* across every row til 40 rows worked altogether (yes, 40, this st is very compressed in both directions). 20 garter st ridges will show on right side, end ready to work a rs row.
Knit across those 20 sts. With same ndl, pick up about 18 sts along side of heel flap.
With ndl 2, pick up a st between ndls 1 and 2, knit across, pick up a st between ndls 2 and 3.
Onto another ndl, pick up and knit about 18 sts along other side of heel flap, then knit first 10 sts from ndl 1 onto ndl 3. Your sts should number about 28/20/28.
Knit 1 round plain.
Knit to within last 3 sts of ndl 1 (27 sts), k2tog, k1. On next ndl, knit across. On last ndl, k1, ssk, knit to end of ndl (27 sts).
Knit across ndl 1. Work in pattern across ndl 2 (3 rounds knit followed by 2 rounds purl), this time it's purl across ndl 2. Knit across ndl 3.
Continue decreasing every second round as above, and maintaining the pattern on ndl 2, til 8 garter st ridges have been completed, or your sts number 10/20/10. This should be at the same point. If not, work another decrease round or a couple of rounds without decreasing, til ready to work the toe.
Knit one round even (without decreasing, all knit sts, no purl).
Knit to within last 3 sts of ndl 1, k2tog, k1. K1, ssk, knit to within last 3 sts of ndl 2, k2tog, k1. K1, ssk, k to end of ndl 3 - 9/18/9.
Knit one round without decreases.
Repeat these two rounds til sts number 6/12/6.
Begin working decreases on every round til sts number 4/8/4.
Knit 4 sts from ndl 1 to ndl 3.
Do 3 needle bind off from right side (or graft toe).
Make another one the same.
If the wearer has a wider or narrower foot, the patterned area can be made narrower or wider as needed so as not to be uncomfortable against the side or top of a shoe, or inadvertantly show plain knitting.
Recently, I became the owner of a lot of blanket weight wool yardage and 
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http://shirret.com/index.html
![[Deformed Socks]](http://www.planetshoup.com/easy/images/soxdeformed01.jpg)
