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(salmon, Atlantic salmon, steelhead salmon, coho salmon, keta, pink salmon, trout) |
In the Soviet Union, the same was a subject of prestige consumption.
Either very high-ranking or very wealthy people were admitted to it.
But none of us could even imagine that in Israel, the omega would not only lie
in all supermarkets and fish stores, but also be called by the name of the Jewish king - "Solomon".
(Well, to be completely honest, it is not "solomon", but "salamon",
from the English Salmon - salmon, and until the mid-80s not very much salmon was seen in Israel).
Most people believe that salmon is a rare northern fish.
This is incorrect. Salmon is the northern name of the Atlantic salmon Salmo salar,those of its populations that live in the rivers of the basins of the White and Barents Seas.
But Atlantic salmon is common on both sides of the Atlantic Ocean, in Europe from the Kara Sea to Portugal, in America - from northern Canada to the state of Connecticut.
There are salmon populations in the Baltic Sea and in some large lakes. But Baltic salmon, like lake salmon, is the same Salmo salar,Atlantic salmon, the most famous representative of the salmon family(Salmonidae).[ more]
The availability of this fish was so high that in the Middle Ages, Portuguese farm laborers in the south and the inhabitants of the Solovetsky Monastery in the north specifically stipulated in contracts that the owners fed them salmon no more than 3 days a week.
Salmon is a very mysterious fish.
Until the middle of the 19th century, juveniles and adult fish were considered completely different species, so different they are both in appearance and in lifestyle.
Salmon are born in clean rapids rivers and live there under the pebbles for several years in the form of small timid spotted fish.
They are called - motley.
But one spring, the fish break away from the bottom, become silvery, get into flocks and go to sea.
At this stage of life, a young salmon is called silver, or smolt.
In the sea, salmon become predators and grow quickly.
The maximum recorded weight of salmon is 47 kg.
For spawning, the fish returns to its river, overcoming rapids and blockages,
tends to the area where its parents laid eggs.
And then the fishermen are waiting.
Rivers are blocked by a net or a wooden fence, fish is collected in front of the fence
and it can be extracted at least with nets, even with bagrams.
So they scoured out almost all, not letting anyone spawn.
And, in addition, they blocked the rivers with dams and left salmon without spawning grounds.
And then the water in the rivers became poisonous from industrial effluents.
So salmon from the object of fishing became an endangered species, but then turned into a pet.
They tried to breed salmon in the century before last.
But the Norwegians really managed to do it in the 70s of the twentieth century.
They are very lucky with the coast - fjords, where there are no storms, and the tides twice a day bring clean water from the ocean.
And now on all the shores of Norway there are cages for growing salmon - from huge industrial complexes working for export, to small household gardens, where they grow delicious fish for themselves from purchased fry
. And the main problem with Norwegian fish farmers is where to put the fish.
Special article about industrial cultivation of Atlantic salmon.
They sell it all over the world - fresh, ice cream, salty.
You can see for yourself - almost all of Israel's salmon is Norwegian, although Scots and Canadians grow a lot.
That's why it is called "Salamon Norway" in our stores.
In recent years, Atlantic salmon have been industrially grown where they are not found in their natural state: in the South Pacific.
Salmon from Chile can be found in our shops and restaurants, see the label album.
For each delicious fish there is an optimal way of cooking, emphasizing its advantages.
So, frying salmon is not interesting. It turns out just fried fish, big, fatty, but not more.
Boiled lard is much more interesting, but quickly boring.
When I had to work in the semuzhe industries, where three times a day I ate semuzhuyu ear (there were simply no other products, and salting the fish was strictly forbidden, so as not to be carried away from the fishery),
I was at first surprised how, having squabbled ears, fishermen moved huge pieces of boiled fish to me, and they themselves grabbed heads, hearts, liver and caviar with a fight.
But by the end of the first week, the boiled fish was tired, and the giblets had a completely different taste.
The most delicious salty. You can buy frozen plastics of smoked salmon, and you can try to salt the salmon yourself. A real ambassador is almost an art.
For such an ambassador, the Pomors chose a large fatty fish with intact scales. The gills were cut out and through the resulting hole, without ripping the abdomen, the insides were removed, using not knives, but special wooden blades.
Then the fish was placed in vats of ice brine. Such fish turned out to be salty, but could be stored for a long time. And living in the Russian North, pomors bake on very significant occasions pies with semka. I myself have tried them only once, it is very tasty, but I do not have a recipe.
How to cook cheap ear from the products available in Eilat
Take 1-2 frozen seven heads ("rosh shel salomon", if you do not have a large pan, then ask to cut into pieces. Be sure to remove the gills. Put in cold water, add the onion with husks and carrots, bring to a boil, cook on low heat for about an hour. A sign of readiness - you can separate the bones with a fork. Then throw on a colander. Put potatoes and finely chopped onion in the broth, cook until the potatoes are half-cooked. For complete authenticity, you can put pieces of frozen salmon, but any inexpensive fillet that can not be defrosted will do. (For example, nilus or heke).
Put a lot of fillets.
Cook for another 10-15 minutes after boiling. During this time, it is necessary to disassemble the cooled head.
Squeamish and lazy can choose only large pieces of red meat from the back of the head, but those who understand will disassemble the whole head into small bones, since there are pieces of meat of different colors and structures in the head, and they all differ in taste.
(The Japanese, for example, like to suck the eyes of boiled fish, and biochemists then found fatty acids in fisheye capsules that are very useful for people.
But how did the Japanese know?). Add the meat from the head to the ear. A minute before the end of cooking, add black pepper peas, bay leaf, salt. Remove from heat and pour a tablespoon of vodka. Close the lid and leave to infuse for 15 minutes.
Old Fishing Mystery
What is the difference between ear and fish soup?
If vodka is drunk before - this is the ear, if after - fish soup.
How to make an autumn ambassador on the shores of the Red Sea
Buy a piece of frozen fish weighing at least a kilogram.
Take a container in which this piece will fit entirely.
Prepare a 7% solution of salt (70 g of salt per liter of water, and a plastic disposable cup includes 250 g of salt, which is enough for 3.5 liters of water).
In a properly prepared solution, raw potatoes do not sink.
Add a teaspoon of sugar. Put the fish in the brine and put in the refrigerator (not higher than +4).
Do not forget to add the brine, so that the fish is always covered with liquid.
After 5-7 days, you can cut and eat.
Poor relatives of the salmon family
In addition to Norwegian salmon, cheaper Pacific salmon of the genus Oncorhynchusare sold in Israel. They belong to the same family Salmonidae (salmon), but cooks are valued less. But they give us kosher red caviar (in Israel, red caviar, the one in supermarkets - American, from Alaska). Pacific salmon in Hebrew are called "iltite", not eilatite (Eilat), namely iltite, although in Hebrew these words look the same when unspoken spelling. Here is what the great connoisseur of Hebrew Dr. Baruch Podolskywrote to me: "The word ilytite, as the name of a certain fish, is found in the Mishnah (5-6 century AD). Where it comes from is unknown." So if the package with fish says "iltite" or "salamon iltite", then you are dealing with Pacific salmon.
There are a lot of Pacific salmon.
These are chum salmon, pink salmon, mikija, Chil salmon, sockeye salmon, coho salmon, sima and several less common species.
In addition to being confined to the Pacific Ocean, these fish are united by the fact that they die after the first spawning.
(Other fish of the salmon family, including salmon, can spawn several times).
Scientists have put a lot of effort to understand the reasons for such doom, hoping that by understanding the mechanisms of "programmed death", they will be able to extend the duration of human life.
But so far, this mystery has not been solved.
So, suicide parents lay eggs in nests that they dig up at the bottom of rivers and streams, and half- or completely dead are drawn downstream.
And from the caviar next spring there are juveniles. In some species (keta, pink salmon), juveniles go into the sea very shallow, in the year of hatching, and in others after 2-3 years of river life.
During the marine period of life, salmon are forged throughout the North Pacific.
At this time, they do not form large clusters and are kept in the upper layers of water.
Their food is diverse: these are small fish, crustaceans, cephalopods, worms, less often jellyfish and small ctenophores.
On such a diet, fish grow quickly, Salmon, caught in the sea, are covered with silvery, easily falling scales.
Having reached a certain size for each species, salmon return to spawn in their native rivers. The appearance of salmon spawning is changing. They have a "mating outfit": silver color is replaced by black, crimson or red. The jaws are curved, a hump grows on the back, the skin becomes thick and rough, scales grow into it.
In females, the signs of mating attire are weaker than in males.
During migration up the river, salmon do not feed, existing solely on the energy reserves accumulated in the muscles.
At the same time, the fish do a great job, climbing up the turbulent, replete rifts, rapids and waterfalls of rivers.
Surely everyone has seen the film footage showing how salmon stubbornly overcome such obstacles.
The record among salmon belongs to the Chivy cup of the Yukon River, rising almost 4 thousand kilometers.
By the end of the way, the amount of fat in the muscles decreases from 10% to almost zero, proteins also go into business, the meat becomes watery and flabby.
Such fish no longer represent any nutritional value.
Therefore, the fishing of Pacific salmon is carried out where they have not yet acquired a mating color: in the sea and in the mouths of rivers.
For 25 years of Israeli life, I met 4 types of ilytite in stores.
The largest iltite is the steel-headed salmon Oncorhynchus mykiss,which we call "salamon canadai".
It is distributed in the wild from Kamchatka to the Amur River in Asia and from Alaska to California in America.
Now it is grown in seawater around the world, but to us, judging by the name, comes from Canada.
It reaches a weight of 25 kg.
From salmon, ketta and pink salmon, it is distinguished by a red longitudinal stripe that goes from the side and is distinguishable even on frozen fish.
But for a long time I do not see it on sale as salmon. But in the form of trout..., but more on that below.
In 2011, coho salmon appeared on Israeli shelves. It is an expensive and delicious species, called in Latin Oncorhynchus kisutch,and in English Coho salmon or Silver salmon.
From the last English name, Israeli importers made a Hebrew tracing paper - ilytite xufa.
It is found on both shores of the Pacific Ocean, from Russia's Anadyr to Japan's Hokkaido in Asia and from Alaska to the Gulf of Mexico in America.
Record sizes of coho salmon 108 cm and 15.2 kg.
The basis of the fishery are fish with a length of 60-70 cm The age of the fish reaches 5 years, of which the first year or two (but sometimes 4), the juveniles spend in the rivers.
In many places of the natural range, this species forms the basis of salmon fishing.
They have been trying to grow caho salmon artificially for 40 years, he himself was engaged in this on the White Sea.
But serious success was achieved only by Chileans in the 80s of the last century.
In 2001, they grew 137 thousand tons.
Then Chilean chiget breeding decreased slightly due to fish diseases, and also because more began to grow other salmon: Atlantic and steelhead.
But still today 98% of all grown caho salmon falls on Chile.
The remaining 2% is shared by Japan and Canada.
The main markets for
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