В светлый праздник Рождества Христова православные христиане традиционно посещают церковь и возносят молитвы во славу Господа. В этот день также молятся Высшим силам об обретении благополучной и счастливой жизни.
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Шаль "Summer Fling" крючком от DROPS design. |
Большая шаль крючком. |
Шаль |
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Мужской клетчатый шарф. |
Ажурная шаль «Людмила» от китайской мастерицы. |
Шарф ажурный |
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Узор для шарфа крючком |
Красивая и эффектная шаль "Тайные тропы" крючком. Secret Paths by Johanna Lindahl. |
Шаль крючком "Lost in Time" by Johanna Lindahl |
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Шаль |
Шляпка |
СХЕМЫ К ВЯЗАНЫМ ШЛЯПКАМ...
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Шали, шарфы, шапочки крючком 48
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Опубликовала Aranam
начинаем такую красоту
Все фотографии кликабельны!
из перевода:
Размер в готовом виде 30 см в диаметре.
Материалы : хлопок для вязания крючком №10: 350 yds = 320 м - 1 клубок
Крючок 1,65 мм
Плотность вязания: 6 круговой ряд = 7 см
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http://vyazanie.in.ua/shal-freya/
MADE TO ORDER IN COLOR OF YOUR CHOICE.
PLEASE, ALLOW FOR A FEW EXTRA DAYS DELIVERY DURING THE HOLIDAY SEASON.
This warm, light, soft and cozy lacy shawl is hand knitted from fine 50% Mohair/50% Acrylic yarn on size 10 US needles. It trully reminds me of Victorian elegant era. It is light weight and drapes softly and beautifully around shoulders. Wearable in fall, winter or spring season. Great for travel. Practically wrinkle-free. Iridescent beads all over and around it's bottom edge turns this cape into an excellent accessory to an evening wear. Easy to care. Hand wash in mild detergent is recommended. Lay flat to dry or block it. This item is pre-washed before sale (to check color run or shrinkage).
Fits most sizes XS - XL. Approximate size of this crescent shape shawlette: 16-18 inches wide on top around the neck area, 20-24 inches in height, and the bottom flairs out to 140 plus inches - making this shawl looking like a crescent with wider ends. Also could be worn as scarf.
Zoom in for closer look at beads.
Pattern of this Freya Shawl is based on Stor Rund Dug doily, altered by R. Haeckler and myself.
All items created in pet and smoke free environment.
http://www.yarnover.net/patterns/doilies/kunststrik/storrund.html
This is a translation of a lace knitting pattern in Danish found at http://www.kunststrik.dk/storrund.htm
K = knit
K2TOG = knit 2 together
SKP = slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitches over
SK2P = slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over
YO = yarn over
()x = knit text in brackets as many times as indicated after the "x"
[]x = repeat enclosed instructions as many times as indicated after the "x"
*-* = repeat enclosed instructions till end of round.
All rows not mentioned are knit plain.
Cast on 6 stitches, and distribute them on 3 needles, 2 stitches on each.
Knit in rounds, marking the start of the round with a coloured loop of thread.
Change to a circular needle when needed.
Row 1: K
Row 2: (K1, YO)x6
Row 6: (K1, YO)x12
Row 10: (K1, YO)x24
Row 15: (K1, YO)x48
Row 22: (K7, YO, K1, YO)x12
Row 24: (SKP, K3, K2TOG, YO, K3, YO)x12
Row 26: (SKP, K1, K2TOG, YO, K2TOG, YO, K1, YO, SKP, YO)x12
Row 28: (SK2P, YO, K2TOG, YO, K3, YO, SKP, YO)x12
Row 30: (K2, YO, SKP, YO, SK2P, YO, K2TOG, YO, K1)x12
Row 32: (K3, YO, SKP, K1, K2TOG, YO, K2)x12
Row 34: (K4, YO, SK2P, YO, K3)x12
Row 36: (K1, YO)x4, [SK2P, (YO, K1)x7, YO]x11, SK2P, (YO, K1)x3, YO
Row 38: K7, (SK2P, K13)x11, SK2P, K6
Row 39: K6, (SK2P, K11)x11, SK2P, K5
Row 40: (K1, YO)x5, [SK2P, (YO, K1)x9, YO]x11, SK2P, (YO, K1)x4, YO
Row 41: K9, (SK2P, K17)x11, SK2P, K8
Row 42: K8, (SK2P, K15)x11, SK2P, K7
Row 43: K7, (SK2P, K13)x11, SK2P, K6
Row 44: (K1, YO)x6, [SK2P, (YO, K1)x11, YO]x11, SK2P, (YO, K1)x5, YO
Row 45: K11, (SK2P, K21)x11, SK2P, K10
Row 46: K10, (SK2P, K19)x11, SK2P, K9
Row 47: K9, (SK2P, K17)x11, SK2P, K8
Row 48: K8, (SK2P, K15)x11, SK2P, K7
Row 49: (K1, YO)x7, [SK2P, (YO, K1)x13, YO]x11, SK2P, (YO, K1)x6, YO
Row 50: K13, (SK2P, K25)x11, SK2P, K12
Row 51: K12, (SK2P, K23)x11, SK2P, K11
Row 52: K11, (SK2P, K21)x11, SK2P, K10
Row 53: K10, (SK2P, K19)x11, SK2P, K9
Row 54: (K1, YO, SKP, K5, K2TOG, YO)x24
Row 56: (K2, YO, SKP, K3, K2TOG, YO, K1)x24
Row 58: (K1, YO, SKP, YO, SKP, K1, K2TOG, YO, K2TOG, YO)x24
Row 60: (K2, YO, SKP, YO, SK2P, YO, K2TOG, YO, K1)x24
Row 62: [K1, (K2TOG, YO)x2, K1, (YO, SKP)x2]x24
Row 63: K, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 64: Move marker to show start of new round: (SK2P, YO, K2TOG, YO, K3, YO, SKP, YO)x24
Row 66: (K1, K2TOG, YO, K5, YO, SKP)x24
Row 67: K, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 68: Move marker to show start of new round: (SK2P, YO, K7, YO)x24
Row 69: K, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 70: Move marker to show start of new round: [SK2P, (YO, K1)x7, YO]x24
Row 71: K, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 72: Move marker to show start of new round: (SK2P, K13)x24, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 73: Move marker to show start of new round: (SK2P, K11)x24, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 74: Move marker to show start of new round: [SK2P, (YO, K1)x9), YO]x24, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 75: Move marker to show start of new round: (SK2P, K17)x24, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 76: Move marker to show start of new round: (SK2P, K15)x24, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 77: Move marker to show start of new round: (SK2P, K13)x24, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 78: Move marker to show start of new round: [SK2P, (YO, K1)x11), YO]x24, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 79: Move marker to show start of new round: (SK2P, K21)x24, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 80: Move marker to show start of new round: (SK2P, K19)x24, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 81: Move marker to show start of new round: (SK2P, K17)x24, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 82: Move marker to show start of new round: (SK2P, K15)x24, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 83: Move marker to show start of new round: [SK2P, (YO, K1)x13), YO]x24, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 84: Move marker to show start of new round: (SK2P, K25)x24, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 85: Move marker to show start of new round: (SK2P, K23)x24, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 86: Move marker to show start of new round: (SK2P, K21)x24, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 87: Move marker to show start of new round: (SK2P, K19)x24
Row 88: (K1, YO, SKP, K5, K2TOG, YO)x48
Row 90: (K2, YO, SKP, K3, K2TOG, YO, K1)x48
Row 92: [K1, (YO, SKP)x2, K1, (K2TOG, YO)x2]x48
Row 94:(K2, YO, SKP, YO, SK2P, YO, K2TOG, YO, K1)x48
Row 96: [K1, (K2TOG, YO)x2, K1, (YO, SKP)x2]x48
Row 97: K, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 98: Move marker to show start of new round: (SK2P, YO, K2TOG, YO, K3, YO, SKP, YO)x48
Row 100: (K1, K2TOG, YO, K5, YO, SKP)x48
Row 101: K, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 102: Move marker to show start of new round: (SK2P, YO, K7, YO)x48
Row 103: K, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 104: Move marker to show start of new round: [SK2P, (YO, K1)x7, YO]x48
Row 105: K, but do NOT knit the last stitch in round. New round starts here.
Row 106: Like row 72, but with 48 repeats.
Row 107-123: Like row 73-89, but with 48 repeats.
Row 124-127: Like row 90-93 but with 96 repeats instad of 48, and do NOT knit the last stitch of row 127. New round starts here.
Row 128: (SK2P, YO, K2TOG, YO, SK2P, YO, SKP, YO)x96
ROW 129: K
Finish with a round of crocheted loops. Where crochet terms differ, UK/US.
Miss/skip first 3 stitches in round, *chain 8, 3 stitches together with a double/single crochet, chain 8, 5 stitches together with a dc/sc*
The Danish website states that the original pattern is in the public domain. Except for posting on a website this translation may be distributed in any non-commercial way you like, as long as a reference to Yarn Over is included.
http://club.osinka.ru/topic-92242?p=8066197 Здесь обсуждения и схемы на Осинке.
http://prayershawlministries.blogspot.ru/2008/09/stor-rund-dug-inspired-shawl.html
You can see the Stor Rund Dug doily I adapted this pattern from here.
This makes a gorgeous cape-style shawl, that looks similar to the feather-and-fan types but nicer, I think.
Some of the stitches are a little hard for beginners, but if you watch tutorial videos and keep at them until they look right, you'll be a pro in no time at making them. And don't forget, blocking erases many an uneven stitch!
I did two versions of this one, the first in a baby alpaca worsted that I stranded with a baby mohair laceweight. I used about 500 yards of those on my #10 circulars to make a shawl that measured around 21" long from neck to bottom. Then I did it on some mill end Caron Simply Soft and since I'm not sure how much I used I can't share that, but I made that one even larger so I could repeat the diamonds at the bottom edge.
I've decided to dedicate this shawl to a friend, Freya Koss, who, after curing her health problems that she found were due to mercury in her dental fillings has become a tireless worker to educate the public on the dangers of mercury in your teeth. It is a Danish pattern and Freya is a Danish name! :)
Here's the pattern (click here to download a printable .pdf of this):
ABBREVIATIONS:
K = knit
YO = yarn over
Slip = slip stitch from left needle to right without knitting.
K2TOG = knit 2 together as if they are one stitch
P2TOG = purl 2 together as if they are one stitch
SSK = slip, slip, knit
SSP = Slip 1 k-wise, slip another k-wise. Return slipped sts to left needle. p2tog tbl: Insert right needle up into back loops of the two stitches and purl them together from this position. (I find it easier to pass them from the right to left through the back loop and then purl them together as if they are one regular purl stitch.)
S2K1psso = Slip the next two stitches at the same time onto the right-hand needle knitwise, knit the next stitch, and pass the two slipped stitches at the same time over the knit stitch. It makes a somewhat raised but perfectly formed knit stitch in the centre of a pair of decreased stitches which slope towards it symmetrically
C** = This is the only hard stitch - a double decrease where the center stitch is on top when viewed from the right side. To do it, purl 1, slip the next 2 together through the back loop (all three are now on the right needle), pass all three to left needle, slip the right needle over the first stitch and under the next two to pass them over the first stitch (the one you purled). The remaining stitch is still on the right needle, so pass it to the left.
()x = knit text in brackets as many times as indicated after the "x"
[]x = repeat enclosed instructions as many times as indicated after the "x"
*-* = repeat enclosed instructions till end of round.
All rows not mentioned are knit plain (knit on knit side; purl on purl side).
Cast on 40 stitches.
Row 1: P
Row 6: K3, (YO, K1) x 35, K2
Row 12: K2, (K7, YO, K1, YO)x8, K9
Row 14: K2, (K2TOG, K3, SSK, YO, K3, YO)x8, K2TOG, K3, SSK, K2
Row 16: K2, (K2TOG, K1, SSK, YO, SSK, YO, K1, YO, K2TOG, YO)x8, K2TOG, K1, SSK, K2
Row 18: K2, S2K1psso, (YO, SSK, YO, K3, YO, K2TOG, YO, S2K1psso )x8, K2
Row 20: K2, (K2, YO, K2TOG, YO, S2K1psso , YO, SSK, YO, K1)x8, K3
Row 21: P7, (slip, P9)x7, slip, P7
Row 22: K2, (K3, YO, K2TOG, K1, SSK, YO, K2)x8, K3
Row 23: P7, (slip, P9)x7, slip, P7
Row 24: K2, (K4, YO, S2K1psso , YO, K3)x8, K3
Row 26: K2, (K1, YO)x4, [S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x7, YO]x7, S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x4, K2
Row 28: K9, (S2K1psso , K13)x7, S2K1psso , K9
Row 29: P8, (C**, P11)x7, C**, P8
Row 30: K2, (K1, YO)x5, [S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x9, YO]x7, S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x5, K2
Row 31: P11, (C**, P17)x7, C**, P11
Row 32: K10, (S2K1psso , K15)x7, S2K1psso , K10
Row 33: P9, (C**, P13)x7, C**, P9
Row 34: K2, (K1, YO)x6, [S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x11, YO]x7, S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x5, YO, K2
Row 35: P13, (C**, P21)x7, C**, P13
Row 36: K12, (S2K1psso , K19)x7, S2K1psso , K12
Row 37: P11, (C**, P17)x7, C**, P11
Row 38: K10, (S2K1psso , K15)x7, S2K1psso , K10
Row 39: P2, (P1, YO)x7, [C**, (YO, P1)x13, YO]x7, C**, (YO, P1)x6, YO, P3
Row 40: K15, (S2K1psso , K25)x7, S2K1psso , K15
Row 41: P14, (C**, P23)x7, C**, P14
Row 42: K13, (S2K1psso , K21)x7, S2K1psso , K13
Row 43: P12, (C**, K19)x7, C**, K12
Row 44: K2, (K1, YO, K2TOG, K5, SSK, YO)x16, K3
Row 46: K2, (K2, YO, K2TOG, K3, SSK, YO, K1)x16, K3
Row 48: K2, (K1, YO, K2TOG, YO, K2TOG, K1, SSK, YO, SSK, YO)x16, K3
Row 50: K2, (K2, YO, K2TOG, YO, S2K1psso , YO, SSK, YO, K1)x16, K4
Row 52: K2, [K1, (SSK, YO)x2, K1, (YO, K2TOG)x2]x16, K3
Row 54: K2, K2TOG, (YO, SSK, YO, K3, YO, K2TOG, YO, S2K1psso )x15,YO, SSK, YO, K3, YO, K2TOG, YO, SSK, K2
Row 55: P2, (slip, P9)x16,slip, P2
Row 56: K2, (K1, SSK, YO, K5, YO, K2 TOG)x16, K3
Row 58: K2, K2TOG, (YO, K7, YO, S2K1psso )X15, YO, K7, YO, SSK, K2
Row 59: P2, (slip, P9)x16,slip, P2
Row 60: K2, K2TOG, [(YO, K1)X7, YO,S2K1psso ]X15, (YO, K1)X7, YO, SSK, K2
Row 61: P2, (slip, P15)x16, slip, P2
Row 62: K2, K2TOG, K13, (S2K1psso , K13)x15, SSK, K2
Row 63: P2, P2TOG, P11, (C**, P11)x15, P2TOG, P2
Row 64: K2, K2TOG, (YO, K1)x9, [S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x9), YO]x15, SSK, K2
Row 65: P2, P2TOG, P17, (C**, P17)x15, P2TOG, P2
**If you aren’t counting stitches anymore because you’ve grasped the pattern, do count them every few rows. At this point it is easy to miss a YO or somehow end up with too many stitches which can get magnified as you go on and is really hard to repair if it’s gone on for too long! If you find your stitch count off, don’t despair! You can easily fudge this pattern so it looks good to all but the most discerning eye. For too many stitches, in the S2K1psso, you can slip 3 instead of two to eat an extra stitch. For too few, you can do a K2TOG instead of the S2K1psso at the end of the repeat to create a stitch for the next row.
Row 66: K2, K2TOG, K15, (S2K1psso , K15)x15, SSK, K2
Row 67: P2, P2TOG, P13, (C**, P13)x15, P2TOG, P2
Row 68: K2, K2TOG, (YO, K1)x11, YO, [S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x11), YO]x15, SSK, K2
Row 69: P2, P2TOG, P21, (C**, P21)x15, P2TOG, P2
Row 70: K2, K2TOG, K19, (S2K1psso , K19)x15, SSK, K2
Row 71: P2, P2TOG, P17, (C**, P17)x15, P2TOG, P2
Row 72: K2, K2TOG, K15, (S2K1psso , K15)x15, SSK, K2
Row 73: P2, P2TOG, (YO, P1)x13, YO, [C**, (YO, P1)x13), YO]x15, P2TOG, P2
Row 74: K2, K2TOG, K25, (S2K1psso , K25)x15, SSK, K2
Row 75: P2, P2TOG, P23, (C**, P23)x15, P2TOG, P2
Row 76: K2, K2TOG, K21, (S2K1psso , K21)x15, SSK, K2
Row 77: P2, P2TOG, P19, (C**, P19)x15, P2TOG, P2
Row 78: K2, (K1, YO, K2TOG, K5, SSK, YO)x32, K3
Row 80: K2, (K2, YO, K2TOG, K3, SSK, YO, K1)x32, K3
Row 82: K2, [K1, (YO, K2TOG)x2, K1, (SSK, YO)x2]x32, K3
Row 84: K2, (K2, YO, K2TOG, YO, S2K1psso , YO, SSK, YO, K1)x32, K3
Row 86: K2, [K1, (K2TOG, YO)x2, K1, (YO, SSK)x2]x32, K3
Row 88: K2, K2TOG, (YO, K2TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK, YO, S2K1psso )x31, YO, K2TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK, YO, SSK, K2
Row 90: K2, (K1, K2TOG, YO, K5, YO, SSK)x32, K3
Row 92: K2, K2TOG, YO, K7, YO, (S2K1psso , YO, K7, YO)x31, SSK, K2
Row 94: K2, K2TOG, (YO, K1)x7, [S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x7, YO]x31, SSK, K2
Row 96: Like row 62, but with 32 repeats.
Row 97-111: Like row 63-77, but with 32 repeats.
Row 111-123: Like row 78-90 but with 64 repeats instead of 32.
Many thanks to YarnOver http://www.yarnover.net for translating this beautiful pattern from the Danish! For the doily pattern, which could make a lovely round blanket, see http://www.yarnover.net/patterns/doilies/kunststrik/storrund.html
Перевод с форума ШАЛИм https://crochetclub.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=62&t=4272&start=80
"Переводчик из меня плохой, т.к. я русские вязальные термины помню с трудом. Там рисунка нет, только словесное описание. Для американцев в основном словесные описания делают. До них визуальные схемы не доходят. Я вставила линки (первые, какие попались) на ютюб для наглядности вывязывания. Американцы опять же вяжут прикольно, набрасывая нитку, а не захватывая, как все нормальные люди."
Вот ссылка на эту шаль: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/freya-shawl. Справа в маленьком окошечке стоит download. Нажмите и потом появится другое окно: нажмите download PDF, чтобы загрузить файл.
Шаль разработана на основе салфетки Stor Rund Dug.
Эта шаль посвящена подруге Фрее Косс, которая, после выздоровления от болезни, вызванной наличием меркурия в зубной пломбе, стала без устали работать над донесением до населения опасности меркурия в зубах. Эта схема датская, и имя Фрея - тоже датское!
Использовано более 500 ярдов stranded baby alpaca и лёгкого мохера на спицах #10. Шаль 21" от середины широкой части до основания.
Сокращения:
K = knit (лицевая)
p = purl (изнаночная)
YO = yarn over (накид)
Slip = slip stitch from left needle to right without knitting (снять непровязывая с левой цпицы на правую)
K2TOG = knit 2 together as if they are one stitch (2 лицевые вместе)
P2TOG = purl 2 together as if they are one stitch (2 изнаночные вместе)
SSK = slip, slip, knit (перекинуть 2 петли на правую спицу, снять обратно на левую и провязать лицевой. Наглядно можно посмотреть здесь: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGwcYW3GG3M)
SSP = Slip 1 k-wise, slip another k-wise. Return slipped sts to left needle (подобно ССК, только изнаночные. Наглядно здесь: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lTCoak_KNDY)
p2tog tbl: Insert right needle up into back loops of the two stitches and purl them together from this position. (I find it easier to pass them from the right to left through the back loop and then purl them together as if they are one regular purl stitch.) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aLI4_u3T9Fo
S2K1psso = Slip the next two stitches at the same time onto the right-hand needleвknitwise, knit the next stitch, and pass the two slipped stitches at the same time over the knit stitch. It makes a somewhat raised but perfectly formed knit stitch in the centre of a pair of decreased stitches which slope towards it symmetrically. (Скинуть 2 петли одновременно на правую спицу по ходу вязания, провязать следующую лицевой, затем перекинуть две предыдущие скинутые петли через провязанную. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QTYc54b_RBo)
C** = This is the only hard stitch - a double decrease where the center stitch is on top when viewed from the right side. To do it, purl 1, slip the next 2 together through the back loop (all three are now on the right needle), pass all three to left needle, slip the right needle over the first stitch and under the next two to pass them over the first stitch (the one you purled). The remaining stitch is still on the right needle, so pass it to the left.
Это самая сложная петля- двойное сокращение, где центральная петля находится на вершине, если смотреть с правой стороны. Провязать 1 изнаночную, скинуть следующие две вместе за задную стенку (на правой спице сейчас 3 петли), перекинуть все три на левую спицу, продеть правую спицу через 1ую петлю и под следующие две через 1ую петлю (ту, которую провязали изнаночной. Оставшаяся петля всё ещё на правой спице, перекинуть её на левую спицу).
()x = knit text in brackets as many times as indicated after the "x"
[]x = repeat enclosed instructions as many times as indicated after the "x" - Повторить инструкцию х раз.
All rows not mentioned are knit plain (knit on knit side; purl on purl side). Все неуказанные ряды вяжутся лицевой на лице и изнаночной на изнанке.
Cast on 40 stitches. (Набрать 40 петель)
Row 1: P
Row 6: K3, (YO, K1) x 35, K2
Row 12: K2, (K7, YO, K1, YO)x8, K9
Row 14: K2, (K2TOG, K3, SSK, YO, K3, YO)x8, K2TOG, K3, SSK, K2
Row 16: K2, (K2TOG, K1, SSK, YO, SSK, YO, K1, YO, K2TOG, YO)x8, K2TOG, K1, SSK, K2
Row 18: K2, S2K1psso, (YO, SSK, YO, K3, YO, K2TOG, YO, S2K1psso )x8, K2
Row 20: K2, (K2, YO, K2TOG, YO, S2K1psso , YO, SSK, YO, K1)x8, K3
Row 21: P7, (slip, P9)x8, slip, P7
Row 22: K2, (K3, YO, K2TOG, K1, SSK, YO, K2)x8, K3
Row 23: P7, (slip, P9)x8, slip, P7
Row 24: K2, (K4, YO, S2K1psso , YO, K3)x8, K3
Row 26: K2, (K1, YO)x4, [S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x7, YO]x7, S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x4, K2
Row 28: K9, (S2K1psso , K13)x7, S2K1psso , K9
Row 29: P8, (C**, P11)x7, C**, P8
Row 30: K2, (K1, YO)x5, [S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x9, YO]x7, S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x5, K2
Row 31: P11, (C**, P17)x7, C**, P11
Row 32: K10, (S2K1psso , K15)x7, S2K1psso , K10
Row 33: P9, (C**, P13)x7, C**, P9
Row 34: K2, (K1, YO)x6, [S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x11, YO]x7, S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x5, YO, K2
Row 35: P13, (C**, P21)x7, C**, P13
Row 36: K12, (S2K1psso , K19)x7, S2K1psso , K12
Row 37: P11, (C**, P17)x7, C**, P11
Row 38: K10, (S2K1psso , K15)x7, S2K1psso , K10
Row 39: P2, (P1, YO)x7, [C**, (YO, P1)x13, YO]x7, C**, (YO, P1)x6, YO, P3
Row 40: K15, (S2K1psso , K25)x7, S2K1psso , K15
Row 41: P14, (C**, P23)x7, C**, P14
Row 42: K13, (S2K1psso , K21)x7, S2K1psso , K13
Row 43: P12, (C**, K19)x7, C**, K12
Row 44: K2, (K1, YO, K2TOG, K5, SSK, YO)x16, K3
Row 46: K2, (K2, YO, K2TOG, K3, SSK, YO, K1)x16, K3
Row 48: K2, (K1, YO, K2TOG, YO, K2TOG, K1, SSK, YO, SSK, YO)x16, K3
Row 50: K2, (K2, YO, K2TOG, YO, S2K1psso , YO, SSK, YO, K1)x16, K4
Row 52: K2, [K1, (SSK, YO)x2, K1, (YO, K2TOG)x2]x16, K3
Row 54: K2, K2TOG, (YO, SSK, YO, K3, YO, K2TOG, YO, S2K1psso )x15,YO, SSK, YO, K3, YO, K2TOG, YO, SSK, K2
Row 55: P2, (slip, P9)x16,slip, P2
Row 56: K2, (K1, SSK, YO, K5, YO, K2 TOG)x16, K3
Row 58: K2, K2TOG, (YO, K7, YO, S2K1psso )X15, YO, K7, YO, SSK, K2
Row 59: P2, (slip, P9)x16,slip, P2
Row 60: K2, K2TOG, [(YO, K1)X7, YO,S2K1psso ]X15, (YO, K1)X7, YO, SSK, K2
Row 61: P2, (slip, P15)x16, slip, P2
Row 62: K2, K2TOG, K13, (S2K1psso , K13)x15, SSK, K2
Row 63: P2, P2TOG, P11, (C**, P11)x15, P2TOG, P2
Row 64: K2, K2TOG, (YO, K1)x9, [S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x9), YO]x15, SSK, K2
Row 65: P2, P2TOG, P17, (C**, P17)x15, P2TOG, P2
**If you aren’t counting stitches anymore because you’ve grasped the pattern, do count them every few rows...
Если вы запомнили схему и больше не считаете ряды, всё равно пересчитывайте каждые несколько рядов. На этом этапе очень легко пропустить накид или набрать больше петель...
Row 66: K2, K2TOG, K15, (S2K1psso , K15)x15, SSK, K2
Row 67: P2, P2TOG, P13, (C**, P13)x15, P2TOG, P2
Row 68: K2, K2TOG, (YO, K1)x11, YO, [S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x11), YO]x15, SSK, K2
Row 69: P2, P2TOG, P21, (C**, P21)x15, P2TOG, P2
Row 70: K2, K2TOG, K19, (S2K1psso , K19)x15, SSK, K2
Row 71: P2, P2TOG, P17, (C**, P17)x15, P2TOG, P2
Row 72: K2, K2TOG, K15, (S2K1psso , K15)x15, SSK, K2
Row 73: P2, P2TOG, (YO, P1)x13, YO, [C**, (YO, P1)x13), YO]x15, P2TOG, P2
Row 74: K2, K2TOG, K25, (S2K1psso , K25)x15, SSK, K2
Row 75: P2, P2TOG, P23, (C**, P23)x15, P2TOG, P2
Row 76: K2, K2TOG, K21, (S2K1psso , K21)x15, SSK, K2
Row 77: P2, P2TOG, P19, (C**, P19)x15, P2TOG, P2
Row 78: K2, (K1, YO, K2TOG, K5, SSK, YO)x32, K3
Row 80: K2, (K2, YO, K2TOG, K3, SSK, YO, K1)x32, K3
Row 82: K2, [K1, (YO, K2TOG)x2, K1, (SSK, YO)x2]x32, K3
Row 84: K2, (K2, YO, K2TOG, YO, S2K1psso , YO, SSK, YO, K1)x32, K3
Row 86: K2, [K1, (K2TOG, YO)x2, K1, (YO, SSK)x2]x32, K3
Row 88: K2, K2TOG, (YO, K2TOG, YO, K3, YO, SSK, YO, S2K1psso )x31, YO, K2TOG, YO, K3, YO,
SSK, YO, SSK, K2
Row 90: K2, (K1, K2TOG, YO, K5, YO, SSK)x32, K3
Row 92: K2, K2TOG, YO, K7, YO, (S2K1psso , YO, K7, YO)x31, SSK, K2
Row 94: K2, K2TOG, (YO, K1)x7, [S2K1psso , (YO, K1)x7, YO]x31, SSK, K2
Row 96: Like row 62, but with 32 repeats.
Row 97-113: Like row 63-79, but with 32 repeats.
Row 114-117: Like row 80-83 but with 64 repeats instead of 32
дальше см. форум, ссылка выше
Схема с Осинки (ссылка выше) для салфетки ,не шали.
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Подборка европейских фильмов к Новому году |
Дорогие друзья, спешу вас поздравить с Рождественскими и Новогодними праздниками, которые здесь, в Европе уже наступили. Я сделала небольшую подборку старых и новых фильмов, которые очень приятно смтреть именно зимой, предвкушая наступление Нового года. Пусть они и не все имеют зимнюю тематику, но очень правильное настроение создают.
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Ажурный белый шарфик |
Немного шарфиков
Вязание: журналы и схемы
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Манишка-любимая вещь многих женщин.
Зимой, как никогда, она актуальна.
Смотрим несколько идей манишек для творчества.
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