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, 08 2015 . 22:32 +
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, 02 2015 . 19:43 +
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ScrapBusters: Binky Leash and Bag

 
 
Editor: Liz Johnson
Monday, 25 July 2011 9:00

Click to Enlarge

Summer seems like the prefect time to pull up some projects that will make the most of all those pretty pieces in your scrap bag, bin or box. This week's ScrapBusters Series brings you five great little-bit-o-fabric ideas, starting with today's perfect baby gift bundle of two binkys on their own little leashes and a matching drawstring carry bag. This project is at the very Tip-Top of the Cutie-Pie Ranking & Rave Scale. For those of you unfamiliar with the C.P.R.R.S., a project's ranking consists of the combined number and volume of "Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhs" generated at baby showers. It's an independent ranking, so don't even try to find it on Google.

Our thanks to our pals at Michael Miller Fabrics for originally providing us with this absolutely wonderful Pretty Bird from Pillow & Maxfield. We found some still available from Fashionable Fabrics and Fabric.com.

Sewing Tools You Need

Fabric and Other Supplies

Click to Enlarge

Supplies for TWO Binky Leashes and ONE matching Bag

  • ⅓ yard of 45" wide primary fabric for leash A, bag top, and bag lining: we used Pillow & Maxfield Pretty Bird from Michael Miller Fabrics in Aqua Ground Cover
  • ¼ yard of 45" wide secondary fabric for Leash B and bag bottom: we used Pillow & Maxfield Pretty Bird from Michael Miller Fabrics in Pink Bloomies
  • All-purpose sewing thread in colors to match fabrics
  • All-purpose sewing thread in contrasting color(s) for topstitching
  • Small piece of lightweight fusible interfacing
  • Snap setting tool
    NOTE: See our tutorial for more information on these tools
  • 2 size 18 pearl-head snap sets
  • 2 suspender clips
  • 28" - 30" length of cord or a long shoelace: we used a lime green cord
  • Black plastic cord lock
  • Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
  • See-through ruler
  • Straight pins
  • Iron and ironing board
  • Large safety pin
  • 2 color-coordinated binkys

Getting Started

  1. From the primary fabric (Pretty Bird Aqua Ground Cover in our sample), cut:
    ONE 11½" x 3" piece for one leash.
    ONE 11" x 9" piece for the bag lining.
    ONE 11" x 5" piece for the bag top
  2. From the secondary fabric (Pretty Bird Pink Bloomies in our sample), cut:
    ONE 11½" x 3" piece for one leash.
    ONE 11" x 5" piece for the bag bottom
  3. From the light-weight interfacing cut TWO 1" x 11" strips.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Binky Leash

  1. Find one 11½" x 3" piece of leash fabric. Fold in and press ½" along both long edges, then fold in and press ½" on one end.
  2. Tuck an interfacing strip under the folded edge on one side. Following manufacturer's directions, fuse in place with your iron.
    Click to Enlarge
  3. Fold in half lengthwise, right sides out, and press.
    Click to Enlarge
    NOTE: It's easier to sew the edges together with a nice, straight line of stitching if one fold is pressed ever so slightly back from the other as shown in the picture above.
  4. Thread your machine contrasting thread in the top and bobbin. Topstitch very close to the edge along both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at each corner. The top edges of the leash are raw.
    Click to Enlarge
    NOTE: We added a folded Sew4Home label at this point, securing it in place with the topstitching.
  5. Apply the ball side of the snap set on the back side of the leash, approximately 3/8" from finished end of leash.
    NOTE: The 'back' would be the side with the one edge ever so slightly behind the other.
  6. Apply the socket side of snap set (the pearl side) on the front side of leash, approximately 3" form the finished end of the leash.
    NOTE: Before applying this second half, be sure to try it out with a binky to confirm you have the correct positioning and enough length to wrap through the binky. If you're new to applying snaps, take a look at our tutorial: How to Apply Metal Snaps to Fabric.
    Click to Enlarge
  7. Press the unfinished end of the leash to the back ¼".
    Click to Enlarge
  8. Thread this end through the suspender clip. Adjust so you have a smooth folded loop and pin in place. Again, this folded edge should be to the back of the leash. Close your snap and double-check you threaded the suspender clip in the right direction.
    Click to Enlarge
  9. Stitch down the tab close to the folded edge. Do several lines of stitching to create a nice strong seam.
    Click to Enlarge
  10. Repeat for the second leash.

Carry Bag

  1. Find the two 11" x 5" pieces - one piece in each of your two coordinating fabrics.
  2. Place the two pieces right sides together, aligning all the raw edges. Pin along one 11" side.
  3. Stitch together, using a ½" seam allowance. Press seam open.
    Click to Enlarge
  4. Find the 11" x 9" lining piece.
  5. Place this piece, right sides together, with the two-piece unit you just created. Align all the raw edges. Pin in place.
    Click to Enlarge
  6. Using a ¼" seam allowance, stitch around all the way around leaving a few inches open at the top edge (the long side of the Aqua Ground Cover in our sample) for turning. Trim the extra fabric off the corners.
    Click to Enlarge
  7. Turn right side out. Poke out the corners with a blunt-tipped tool, such as a large knitting needle or a chopstick, to make them nice and sharp 90˚ angles.
  8. Press, making sure to turn in the raw edges of the opening so they are flush with sewn seam.
    Click to Enlarge
  9. To create the cord casing, fold the top edge down ¾" toward the lining side (the Aqua Ground Cover in our sample), pin in place.
  10. If necessary, re-thread your machine with contrasting thread and stitch close to the folded edge. Press.
    Click to Enlarge
  11. Fold piece in half with the casing at the top and aligning the sides and bottom edges. Pin in place.
    Click to Enlarge
  12. Starting just below the casing, and using a ¼" seam allowance, stitch down the side and across bottom, pivoting at the corner. 
    Click to Enlarge
    NOTE: We added a folded Sew4Home label at this point, securing it in place with the topstitching.
  13. Attach a large safety pin to one end of your cord and use it to pull the cord through the casing.
    Click to Enlarge
  14. Thread both ends of the cord through the plastic cord lock.
    NOTE: If the ends of your cord are frayed, tightly wrap them with a piece of scotch tape.
  15. Tie a knot in each end. If you taped the ends, you can leave the tape (kind of makes an end like a shoelace) or remove it and allow the ends to fray.
    Click to Enlarge

Contributors

Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Julia Chapman

Other machines suitable for this project include the Elna SewFun and the Baby Lock Grace.

/

(0)

, 02 2015 . 19:57 +
fekta [ + !]



Weekend Wonders with Fabric.com: Outdoor Placemats with Flatware Pockets

 
 
Editor: Liz Johnson
Thursday, 12 July 2012 3:00

 

Outdoor dining takes a little creativity in order to keep everything from blowin' in the wind. Our darling, durable placemats have built-in pockets to hold flatware and/or napkins. Dining in? Hooray for the reversible! Simply flip over the placemats for whole new look – the back is pocket-free. These clever placemats are so quick and easy, you can easily whip up enough your own table or the entire family reunion in a weekend, making them the "whip-it-up-winner" of our Weekend Wonders with Fabric.com series.

Our thanks to Fabric.com for sponsoring our series of fast and fabulous projects. This week will be followed by a second wonderful week July 30th. If you haven't visited Fabric.com before, take a few minutes (or several hours... my how time flies when you're having fun) to browse through their incredible selection. Ordering is fast (orders ship within 48 hours), safe (satisfaction is guaranteed and return shipping is free) and easy (US orders of $35 or more always ship for free). 

You want a substantial fabric for this project: a canvas, heavy cotton duck or an outdoor fabric. We went the outdoor fabric route, which worked well and looked great. Normally, outdoor fabrics are not meant to be machine washable. It can remove the protective coatings that help keep them from fading in the sun and molding in the damp. However, these placemats are not meant to be left out in the elements for days on end, so fading and molding aren't the huge concerns they would be with pillows or cushions left out all season. We cut several smallish (about 9" x 12") swatches and washed and dried them several times. They turned out great. Plus, the surface of outdoor fabrics tends to resist dirt and grime and can often simply be spot cleaned. Now... if you plan on inviting Cousin Earnie over for the annual rib barbecue, you might consider having him eat on a towel instead of one of these. 

If you're new to working with outdoor fabrics, take a look at the tutorial we did awhile back: How To Work With And Select Outdoor-Safe Fabric. Our friends at Fabric.com have one of the best selections of outdoor fabrics we've found anywhere. You can choose from popular designers like Tommy BahamaWaverly Sun N ShadeRichloom and Premier Prints

Sewing Tools You Need

Fabric and Other Supplies

We created a set of four mix and match placemats; the supply list below is for the same.

  • ¾ yard of FOUR coordinating 54" wide indoor/outdoor fabric. We used fabrics from the Premier Prints and Richloom Solarium indoor/outdoor collections in the following mix and match combos:

Placemat One:

Placemat Two:

Placemat Three:

Placemat Four:

Supplies needed for all placemats

  • Coats Outdoor Living thread to match fabric
    NOTE: This thread is profiled in the Outdoor Fabric article. Regular thread will succumb to the elements much more quickly, so it's a good idea to use a specialty thread. However, since these placemats won't be left out for extended period, a standard all-purpose thread would also work. 
  • See-through ruler
  • Fabric pen or pencil
  • Iron and ironing board
  • Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
  • Seam gauge
  • Seam ripper
  • Straight pins 

Getting Started

Above, we specified a little extra fabric to allow you to nicely fussy cut each design. To have complete cutting freedom, we recommend getting a full yard of each fabric.

  1. From each of the FOUR fabrics, fussy cut the following:
    TWO 21" wide x 15" high rectangles
    ONE 6" wide x 8½" high rectangle

At your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Prepare and place the pocket

  1. Find the four fussy cut 6" wide x 8½" high rectangles. 
  2. Fold in and press both sides and the bottom edge ½".
  3. Fold the top edge down 2" and press. 
    NOTE: Be very precise with your measuring and folding so your pretty, centered fussy cut stays pretty and centered.
  4. Pin in place all around.
  5. Create a top hem by stitching across the top of the pocket approximately 1¾" from the top folded edge.
  6. Place the pocket on the right side of the placemat front in the bottom right hand corner. It should be 1½" from the bottom raw edge and 1½" from the right hand raw edge. Pin in place along both sides and across the bottom.
  7. Using a Quarter Inch Seam foot (if possible), stitch along both sides and across the bottom, leaving the top open ('cause, yeah, it's a pocket). Remember to pivot at the corners. We also like to do a heavy back tack at both upper corners as this is a stress point when using the pocket. 
  8. Repeat to create the remaining three pockets for the remaining three placemat fronts. 

Assemble the layers to finish

  1. Find each front and back placemat pair. Place the two layers right sides together, sandwiching the pocket in between.
  2. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch around all four sides, leaving a 6-8" opening along the bottom for turning. Remember to pivot at all the corners, and to lock your stitch at either side of the 6-8" opening.
  3. Trim all the corners at a diagonal and press the seams open. 
  4. Turn the placemat right side out through the opening. 
  5. Gently push out the corners so they are nice and sharp. A long blunt-end tool works best for this, such as a knitting needle or chopstick.
  6. Press well, pressing in the raw edges of the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam.
  7. Pin the opening closed.
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  8. Topstitch around all four sides, using a ¼" seam allowance. This closes the opening and secures the two layers. We used our Quarter Inch Seam foot again to keep our seam line super straight and even. Remember to remove your pins as you sew. Don't sew over pins!

 

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