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ќбъемный фон дл€ съемки работ своими руками

ƒневник

ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 19:49 + в цитатник

ќбъемный фон дл€ съемки работ своими руками

 

ќбъемный фон дл€ съемки работ своими руками | ярмарка ћастеров - ручна€ работа, handmade

¬ этот раз мы будем делать объемный фон дл€ фотосъемки игрушек и разной там мелочи. “о ли ярмарка ћастеров перенасыщена “ильдами, то ли подача у мен€ не верна€. “олько интересом, на мой взгл€д, мои зайцы и јнгелы обделены. ))) ќдним словом, решила € их пересн€ть!...

‘он пожелала сделать  многофункциональным: и дл€ небольших работ и в то же врем€, что бы соответствовал моим стандартам зайцев, высота которых 55-56см.

 

 

 

 

Ќам понадобитс€:

Ћист картона. ¬ моем случае гофрированный картон 55х75см.

 рафт-бумага размером с ватман 3-4 листа.

ѕодарочна€, упаковочна€ бумага 1 лист.

 оробочка небольша€ дл€ полки.

«еркало любого размера.

2-сторонний скотч.

Ќожницы.

Ћинейка.

 лей ѕ¬ј и клей “итан (или ћомент).

 исть.

 ружево льн€ное, капроновое.

Ћыко обыкновенное.

 рючок декоративный.

ѕесок крупный ракушечный.

 амешки, бусины декоративные.

Ќачнем с эскиза

“ак как € знала уже, чего хочу, то мне осталось только определитьс€ с компоновкой  деталей. ѕолочку € пожелала, что бы в дальнейшем снимки были более интересными и насыщенными. ј зеркало! ќно придает бќльший объем и глубину фотографи€м.

ќпределив высоту своих зайцев у мен€ получилось так:

 

ѕервым нашим действием будет разметка на картоне

 

«атем наносим клей “итан (ћомент) на коробочку и даем 4-5мин ему подсохнуть.

ѕосле чего сажаем еЄ на заданное место.

 

¬торым действием станет обклеивание полочки оберточной бумагой.

я не стану подробно описывать данный процесс. —кажу лишь, что в данном случае работаем тоже клеем “итан. ≈го секрет в том, что в отличие от ћомента он по своему составу гуще и прихватывает поверхности быстрее, не оставл€€ в процессе неровностей.

 

¬от что получилось

 

ƒальше крќем картон клеем. ¬ ход идет ѕ¬ј. ѕоверхность больша€, поэтому клеем “итан уже не обойтись.

 

ѕо технологии, проклеенный картон придетс€ на врем€ оставить. ≈сли бы это была фанера или пластик другое дело, а картон от ѕ¬ј начинает деформироватьс€… Ќа 6-8 часов кладем его под пресс до полного высыхани€.

«а это врем€ можно подготовить наш объемный декор.

Ќарезаем или рвем из листов крафт-бумаги 10-12 полос

 

’орошенечко мнем их, образу€ «колбаски» 

 

» начинаем формировать спиральки-цветы, слегка перекручива€ заготовки.

 

¬от что получилось.

ƒл€ того чтобы цветок был шире, начатую спираль доращиваем второй заготовкой-«колбаской» (пон€ли о чем €?).

 

–азметив их расположение на картоне, клеим каждую к основанию.

 

я также сделала несколько завитков из лыка, а там где клей стал проступать, засыпала крупным песком (так же не плохо будут смотретьс€ кофейные зерна, декоративные камешки…

” мен€ давно лежал цветок из органзы, а здесь самое то! ¬ тему)))

 

 ќбклеиваем полочку кружевом

 

—ажаем на двухсторонний скотч зеркало

 

ѕриклеиваем крючок

 

», в общем-то, √ќ“ќ¬ќ!

 

 ак вы пон€ли, в ход идет всЄ, что плохо лежало. ))) ћожно воспользоватьс€ остатками обоев, красивыми декупажными салфетками, тканью, пуговицами, ветками, цветами… Ќужно только, согласно задуманной идеи, со вкусом и с сочетанием цвета подобрать весь материал…

 

Ётот фон будет еще хорош дл€ передвижени€. Ќапример, вас, приглашают к участию в какой либо выставке, чем не вариант украшени€ им своего уголка на выставке?!

 

ј вот и пробна€ съемка! )))

 

 

пусть тоже покрасуетс€... ))))

 Ќадеюсь ћ  был вам полезен и вы тоже воспользуютесь моими иде€ми

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»нтересное

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¬есЄлый маскарадный костюм на ’эллоуин

ƒневник

ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 18:22 + в цитатник

DIY Jar Head Halloween Costume

Today we’re taking a caloric filled jar of cheese balls and turning it into the most legit Halloween costume you’ve ever seen. So lick off those cheesy fingers and don’t throw away the jar because we’re going to upcycle that baby.

Last year while my kids and I were scouring the Internet for fun Halloween costume ideas we came across this picture. It didn’t have any instructions on how to make the costume so we started brainstorming and here’s what we came up with. Below are the items you’ll need…

First fill the big backpack with plastic bags to give it some bulk.

Second put the trench coat on over the pack and button it up around your kids head so it’s at stomach level.

Third fill the coat’s arms and torso with more plastic bags until it’s nice and firm. Plastic bags make it look bulky without all the weight. Remember you’re kiddo has to lug this thing around while trick or treating all night.

Fourth attach gloves to the coat sleeves with safety pins and stuff the gloves with plastic bags.

And lastly cut the bottom of the cheese ball jar out using heavy utility scissors or tin snips. Make sure the hole is big enough for your kiddos head to pass through. then attach the gloves to the base of the jar using strong tape. (please excuse the disturbing face of my 10-year-old)

Last Halloween I sent my son off to school like this and as he walked down the road I saw several heads turning and an older couple on their morning walk were laughing their heads off. It was definitely worth eating all those cheese balls!

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ѕенал в интересном исполнении. ћ 

ƒневник

ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 18:07 + в цитатник

Zip-It-Up Pencil Case {Tutorial}

Zip It Up Pencil Case

Zip It Up Pencil Case


“It’s Back To School time, boys and girls.” This zip-it-up pencil case would be of great help for them to keep their stationary in place. Not only that, it is also a great topic for “Show And Tell” session to their new class-mates of how the magic works with this zipper + ribbon strip…”See, this is a strip of ribbon, and I am going to turn it into a pencil case…. *zip**zip**zippppp***…. tadaaaa…. a pencil case!!!!”. School is fun with friends and books around.

Recently, I received an overwhelming and fantastic responses came all over the world to visit the tutorial of the Zip-Itself Tetrahedron Coin Purse, the same concept of this zip-it-up pencil case. Among the feedback and comments, some of you found it difficult to understand at some point, but I am glad that after putting you hands on it, you’ve made yourself some successful coin purses. As usual, practice makes perfect! Grandma G even tried it on with her sewing machine with a wider ribbon that her daughter Jessica of How About Orange designed. Jessica also shared the post with her readers. I was so happy that you all like the coin purse so much. As an appreciation to all your visits and feedback, I developed another tutorial to the same concept. This time both boys and girls can use this zip-it-up pencil case (just have to be fair to the boys too, right?).

I hope you like this Zip-It-Up Pencil Case as much as the coin purse. Please find the tutorial after this.

Finished Dimension: approx. 4″ x 8″ x 1 1/2″

Materials:
1. Zipper (nylon) – 80″
2. Ribbon (7/8″)- 80″ (Note: you can use grosgrain, woven, satin ribbons, or other alternative materials like lace, fabric strip, soft twill tape etc.)
3. Ribbon – short length for the purse loop.
4. Lining fabric strip (1 1/2″) – 80″ (optional)

Tools:
1. Sewing needles.
2. Matching threads
3. Pins
4. Marker
5. Warm iron (optional, use only with lining)

zipper & ribbon sew coin purseGet ready the materials and tools as per quantities stated above.
You can get the long nylon zipper from craft shop that cut into your requested length, and don’t forget to add a zipper pull.
Sew a few stitches to make a bottom-stop about 1″ from the end of the zipper.
Tie 2 knots on both top zipper tapes to prevent the zipper-pull from accidentally glide out from the zipper.

sew ribbon to zipperMeasure 4 3/4″ from zipper’s bottom-stop. Mark, this is the START point.
Pin and backstitch the ribbon to the zipper tape along line A, start at 3/4″ from the ribbon end and 1/32″ away from the teeth in order for the zipper pull to glide through.
I sewed with longer stitch on the wrong side but shorter loop stitch on the right side for the backstitch so that the thread is not obviously seen on the right side.
When you reach the bottom stop, bend the zipper tape down, smooth the corner by crossing of zipper ends, continue sewing your ribbon till you have done around 70″ from the start point.

zip it up coin purseCome back to the start point. Arch the tape at the marking where the marking should be at the center of the ribbon’s width, pin the ribbon to the tape along line B.
Sew ribbon to the tape of the other side of the zipper.
Fold the ribbon’s end in and slip stitch the ribbon to the tape by following the curve.
A nice smooth curvature determine the beauty of the pencil case.

Continue back stitching the ribbon to the zipper tape until you have done 65″ from the start point.
There will be a different of 5″ of stitching between line A & B.

Zip-up the zipper and the pencil case shape is formed through a upward spiral closure.
Measure your pencil case from the bottom stop, it should be around slightly over 8″ and your zipper goes 7 rounds of zipping.

Press the top edge of the pencil case to find the top corners of a rectangular shape.
Mark both points on line A & B.
The point above the the bottom-stop is the end point, whilst, the point above the start point is the pencil case top-stop with a ribbon loop (please refer the last step-by-step photo for clearer picture).

Unzip the pencil case a little. Arch the line A zipper tape at the marking, the zipper ends should meet and intersect at the other marking on line B.
Place a ribbon loop on the intersection point of the zipper, pin & sew to join.
Trim off the extra zipper, crossed them and make a few stitches to stabilized the position.
Trim off the extra length of the ribbon and fold the raw edge of the ribbon, just like the start point, slip stitch to the tape.
Whip stitch the zipper edges at the back of the pencil case to complete it.

lined your pouchYou may add a lining at the back of the pencil case. The lining will add some stability and aesthetic look to the workmanship of the pencil case.
Iron the lining strip by folding in both edges to form a 7/8″ double-fold tape.
Slip-stitch along the backstitch line to cover the stitches done for the ribbon. When you reach the curve of the start and end points, trim the ends to follow the curvature, fold in and slip stitch like you did the ribbon.

Zip it up pencil caseZip it all the way up and you will get a pencil case.
Or, zip it all the way down to return it to a ribbon with edges full of zipper teeth.

Zip It Up Pencil Case

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¬сЄ дл€ дома/сада

ћетки:  

¬€жем корзинку. ћ 

ƒневник

ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 18:04 + в цитатник

Crochet Hemp Basket

how to crochet basket

Crochet Hemp Basket
Amended on 19 September for better clarification

Difficulty Level: Intermediate, must know how to crochet sc, slst & ch
Finished size: approx. 11″ (D) x 5″ (H)
Gauge: Not essential as long as the hook size matches the medium worsted yarn weight.

Materials & Tools:
1. Ace Manila Twisted Rope (75853), 1/4″ x 50′ or equivalent
2. Yarn, Lion Brand, Lion Cotton Yarn/color: Natural (beige) #760-098, or, cotton twine that is able to crochet.
3. Crochet hook: 4mm
4. Stitch marker
5. Quick dry adhesive glue
6. Scissor
7. Clothespin or clip
Abbreviations:
ch = chain
ch sp = chain space, the space between 2 sc that are link by chain stitch, could be 1 ch or 2 ch
sc=single crochet
st = stitch
slst = slip stitch
sk= skip
mm= move marker

Crochet Hemp Basket Pattern:
[figure inside {} bracket indicates total stitches on the round]
R1 : ch2, sc8 on second ch from hook, ch1, place marker. {8}
** sc from row 2 onwards means sc around rope, otherwise as per instruction **
R2 : *sc on next st, ch1*, repeat * 8 times, mm. {16}
R3 : *sc on next ch sp, ch2*, repeat* 8 times, mm. {24}
R4 : *sc on next ch sp, ch1, sc on same ch sp, ch1*, repeat* 8 times, mm. {32}
R5 : *sc on next ch sp, ch2, sc on next ch sp, ch1* repeat* 8 times, mm. {40}
R6 : *sc on next ch sp, ch2*, repeat* 16 times, mm. {48}
R7 : *sc on next ch sp, ch1, sc on same ch sp, ch1*, repeat* 16 times, mm. {64}
R8 : *sc on next ch sp, ch2, sc on next ch sp, ch1* repeat* 16 times, mm. {80}
R9 : *sc on next ch sp, ch2*, repeat* 32 times, mm. {96}
R10 : *sc on next ch sp, ch1, sc on same ch sp, ch1, sc on next ch sp, ch1*, repeat* 16 times, mm. {96}
R11 : *sc on next ch sp, ch1, sc on next sp, ch2, sc on next ch sp, ch1*, repeat* 16 times, mm. {112}
R12 : *sc on next ch sp ch2, sc on next ch sp, ch2, sc on next ch sp, ch1*, repeat* 16 times, mm. {128}
R13 : repeat R12.
R14 : *sc on next ch sp, ch2*, repeat* 48 times, mm. {144}
R15 : repeat R14.
R16 : *[sc on next ch sp, ch2] repeat 4 times, [sc on next ch sp, ch1] repeat 2 times, sc on same ch sp, ch 1*, repeat* 8 times, mm. {144}
R17 : *[sc on next ch sp, ch2] repeat 4 times, [sc on next ch sp, ch1] repeat 3 times*, repeat* 8 times, mm. {144}
R18 : *[sc on next ch sp, ch2] repeat 5 times, [sc on next ch sp, ch1] repeat 2 times*, repeat* 8 times, mm. {152}
R19 : repeat R18.
R20 : *[sc on next ch sp, ch2] repeat 6 times, sc on next ch st, ch1*, repeat* 8 times, mm. {160}
R21 : repeat R20.
R22 : *sc on next ch sp, ch2*, repeat* 56 times, mm. {168}
R23 : repeat R22.
R24 : *[sc on next ch sp, ch2] repeat 5 times, [sc on next ch sp, ch1] repeat 2 times, sc on same ch sp, ch 1*, repeat* 8 times, mm. {168}
R25 : *[sc on next ch sp, ch2] repeat 5 times, [sc on next ch sp, ch1] repeat 3 times*, 3sc on next ch sp, crochet “handle” (see instruction below), 3sc on next ch sp, repeat* 3 times, 3sc on next ch sp, crochet “handle”, 3sc on next ch sp, repeat* 2 times, mm. {174}
R26 : repeat R25, twist rope at the handle section.

Handle (work without rope) : *slst, ch, slst*, repeat* 6 times, leave 6″ rope as handle

Cut rope 1″ – 2″ from the last stitch, glue it down and clip the end to the basket body until it is securely fastened.
Glue the rope’s start end with adhesive too.
Weave and hide yarn end.

3 basic materials to work on, the manila rope, yarn or twine and a crochet hook.

Crochet basic round according to the pattern (R1).

On round 2 onwards, all single crochet (sc) stitches in the pattern means single crochet on the rope.
Place the yarn under the rope.

Insert hook into the loops of the previous round’s stitch, yarn over (yo) the yarn from the top of the rope.

Pass through the loops of the previous round’s stitches to complete the sc around the rope.

Crochet the base follow the pattern above. This is the 2nd round, remember to place a marker so you will know where is the beginning stitch of the round.

Third round. Adjust the rope end nicely and fit into the base.
Crochet the rest as per pattern above.

The look of the basket from the bottom.

Complete till Round 24, just before making handles on the final 2 rounds.

You will see the increment stitch as this, sc on next ch st, ch1, sc on same ch st, ch1.

Round 25, handle construction. The handle is 6″ but if you want longer handle, you can always adapt to your length.

Round 26, wind and twist the rope on the handle.

This is the 3 sc stitches before and after the handle.

Apply the glue at the rope end, clip it to the basket until it is dry and securely fastened.

crochet rope basket

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¬сЄ дл€ дома/сада

ћетки:  

¬есЄлые наушники-овечки. ћ 

ƒневник

ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 17:54 + в цитатник

Crochet: Sheep EarMuffs For Kid {Pattern & Tutorial}

Crochet: Sheep earmuffs for kid.
 
Crochet: Sheep earmuffs for kid.

“Watching the snow accumulated outside your window, this winter is sure freezingly cold”, my heart whispering when watching the news about the cool winter weather…. It is fun to have some outdoor activities with the thick snow; snowball fighting, making snowman, sleigh ride, skiing, et cetera… and I hope you are able to keep warm too while enjoying the snow play; especially to the little one who needs your tenderly care.

The design of this sheep earmuffs was inspired by the hilarious flock in the “Shaun The Sheep“, a children animation TV series. I specially love the big fat sheep, Shirley, who basically eats everything and get into trouble for consuming those uneatable. Isn’t her big fluffy body so perfect as the muff? The muffs are made up of loop stitches with 1″ loop length. The head, ears and legs are single crochet stitches amigurumi. Sewing all the parts to assemble the sheep, then attach the headband to become a earmuffs. That’s it! Hope your kid finds it warm yet entertaining when wearing the earmuffs.

By the way, if you are also a fan of “Shaun The Sheep”, don’t miss out the tutorial by using pom-pom to make sheep key chain.

Get the crochet pattern and the how-to for this sheep earmuffs after this jump:

Difficulty Level: Advance Beginner, must know how to crochet ls [loop stitch], ls2tog, sc, sc2tog & ch.

Finished size: approx. 4″ diameter for each sheep (including the loops).

Materials & Tools:
1. Yarn : medium worsted DK, White (approx. 40g), Black (approx. 20g).
2. Crochet hook: 3 mm
3. Tapestry Needle (to join body parts and hide yarn ends)
4. Plastic Headband (choose a strong type so that it won’t break easily yet able to keep the earmuffs to the ears), or salvage an old headphone that able fit into the sheep body/muff.
5. Wiggly eyes, 8 mm x 4 pcs.
6. Microfiber or microfleece
7. Poly-fill for stuffing
8. Sewing kit
9. Craft glue

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
ls = loop stitch
sc2tog = single crochet 2 together or single crochet decrease
ls2tog = loop stitch 2 together or loop stitch decrease
st = stitch
MM= move marker
FO= fasten off

Crochet Patterns

Body (White) – Make 2
(Loop’s length: about 1″ long)
Round 1: Ch2, 8sc in 1st chain. MM. (8)
Round 2: *2ls in each st*, repeat from * around. MM. (16)
Round 3: *2 ls in first st, 1 ls in next st*, repeat from * around. MM. (24)
Round 4: *2 ls in first st, 1 ls in next 2 sts*, repeat from * around. MM. (32)
Round 5: *2 ls in first st, 1 ls in next 3 sts*, repeat from * around. MM (40)
Round 6 – 8: 1 ls in each st around. MM (40)
Round 9: *ls2tog, 1 ls in next 3 sts*, repeat from * around. MM (32)
FO, hide yarn end

Head (Black) – Make 2
Round 1: Ch2, 6sc in 1st chain. MM. (6)
Round 2: *2sc in each st*, repeat from * around. MM. (12)
Round 3: *2sc in first st, 1sc in next st*, repeat from * around. MM. (18)
Round 4: *2sc in first st, 1sc in next 2 sts*, repeat from * around. MM. (24)
Round 5 – 6: 1 sc in each st around. MM (24)
Round 7: *sc2tog, 1sc in next 2 sts*, repeat from * around. MM. (18)
Round 8 – 10: 1 sc in each st around. MM (18)
Round 11: *sc2tog, 1sc in next st*, repeat from * around. MM. (12)
Round 12: 1 sc in each st around. MM (12)
Stuff
Round 13: sc2tog in each st around. MM. (6)
FO with at least 6″ yarn tail

Ear (Black) – Make 4
Round 1: Ch2, 6sc in 1st chain. MM. (6)
Round 2 – 3: 1 sc in each st around. MM (6)
Round 4: sc2tog in each st around. MM. (3)
Round 5: 1 sc in each st around. MM (3)
FO with at least 6″ yarn tail

Leg (Black) – Make 4
Round 1: Ch2, 6sc in 1st chain. MM. (6)
Round 2: sc2tog in each st around. MM. (3)
Round 3 – 4: 1 sc in each st around. MM (3)
FO with at least 6″ yarn tail

Sheep Amigurumi PartsCrochet all sheep amigurumi parts (picture shown only 1 set).
Cut 2 pcs. of circles from microfiber or fleece, diameter of the circle (including seam allowance) is about 4″ or 1 1/2″ larger than the opening of the body.

Sheep Amigurumi Loop StitchWith tapestry needle, sew ears at round 10 of the head, 10 stitches apart.
Sew head to the body with top of the head at the center of the body.
Sew legs at round 6 of the body, 5 stitches apart.
Glue eyes at round 8 of the head. (You can glue the eyes later for faster process)
Repeat the same to another sheep.
Set aside while waiting for the glue to dry.

Crochet sheep earmuffsWhile waiting for the glue to dry and eyes to fix, measure the length (L) and width (W) for the headband.
Cut 1 rectangular from the microfiber with about 1″ seam allowance at each side for the length (total = 2″+L), add 1″ + 1/2″ seam allowance at each side (total = 2″+W) for the width. The extra 1″ is to ensure that the headband pocket is big enough to let the plastic headband to pass through.

head band coverWith right side facing each other, sew along lengthwise of the microfiber. Turn the tube rightside out.
Insert the headband into the tube pocket.
Sew to close bother ends.

Sew microfiber earmuffsWhen the eyes are safe to handle, sew with slip stitch to attach the microfiber circle to the body of the sheep. Leave 1″ opening at the top of the sheep, for stuffing and headband attachment.

Stuff earmuffsStuff some poly-fill into the earmuffs through the opening.
Sew earmuffs to head bandThe length of the headband needed for a kid is about 12 1/2″ or slightly longer for adult. Mark the headband then insert the end into the opening, pin to secure then slip stitch to attach. You will find part of the plastic end is inside the earmuff.
Repeat the same to the other side.
If you haven’t glue the eyes, you can do it now. Leave the glue to dry before handling.
~Done~

Sheep earmuffs frontCute sheep earmuffs especially for kid to protect their ears during the freezing winter.
heart sheep earmuffsThe inside is soft microfiber that keeps the ears warmed.

Warm sheep earmuffs crochet pattern

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ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 17:39 + в цитатник

Sewing Tutorial: Sew A Crinoline

crinoline-Crinoline or petticoat is easy to make, really!!! Well, at least it is so much more easier to make compared to the queen gown below.

Crinoline when worn under a skirt, makes it look domed and inflated, especially for gown of special occasion. You can get crinoline easily in some countries but they normally came in white or black. Now, you can make it yourself, if you need a specific color to match your beautiful gown.

Crinoline mainly came in 2 types, hoop or full fabric/tulle. The one I am making is hoop with tulle, so it is a mixture of both. The reason behind this combination is that I want the crinoline look soft yet is able to hold the skirt of the gown in a good shape, yet easy to stow away when not in use. If you look closely at hoop crinoline being worn, you will see the “skeleton” of the hoop if the gown was made of soft and thin fabric. Full fabric/tulle is a good choice but it would be difficult when comes to storage as it is very bulky and isn’t like the hoop type where we can simply take out the resilient plastic strip of the “bone”.

See, the gown is happy and smiling after being given a “lift” by the crinoline!

Before-&-After-Crinoline
Material you will need:
(this is for little girl’s measurement, you would need more for an adult.)
1. 3 meter of tulle, I bought the stiff tulle as it expends better
2. 2 meter fabric to make into an A-shape skirt
3. Elastic band for the A-shape skirt
4. 12 meter Resilient plastic strip (some call it corset bone or fish bone)
5. 1 roll of cotton bias-tape (about 10 meter)

crinoline-wip1Divide the tulle into 3 equally parts by it’s width. Cut. You have 3 strips of 3 meters x 1/3 width of tulle.
Cut one of the strips into half the length, become 2×1.5 meter.
Sew the 1.5 meter to one of the 3 meter tulle to make it 4.5 meters.
Now you have 3 strips of 1.5m, 3m and 4.5m.
Sew the ends together to make into ring. The long side of the measurement become the width and the short side become the height.
Fold the height into half.
Divide the width into 4 equal parts and mark their position by sewing red threads on them.

crinoline-wip2Use the biggest spacing of straight stitch, sew 2 lines 10mm below the fold side of the 3m tulle.
Pull the thread to create gathers until the width of the gathered tulle is 1.5m. Pin the red thread markings to the 1.5m tulle (only the bottom layer). Spread the gather evenly and secure it with pin. Sew a normal spacing stitch to hold it.
Repeat the same to the 4.5m width tulle. You might increase the marking to 8 to achieve a more even spreading in the gathers.
Lastly, gather the top of the first tulle to the desired width of the A-shape skirt.

crinoline-wip3This is an A-shape skirt with elastic waist band and the resilient plastic strip is beside it.
Sew 4 rows of biased tape at the wrong side of the skirt so that you could put in the plastic strip into it.
The spacing between each strip is about 150mm. You can increase the spacing for adult crinoline, anything between 150mm to 250mm is fine.
Remember to leave the ends of the biased tape open so that you can slot the strip into it.

crinoline-wip4The wrong side of the skirt showing the biased tape.

crinoline-wip6Attach the tulle onto the right-side of the A-shape skirt.

crinoline-wip5Slot the resilient plastic strip into the biased tape. The plastic strip will expand the A-shape skirt to its fullest.
TIP: If your gown is heavy on the skirt side, you may want to add another strip of plastic to the last 2 rows of the biased tape, this is to further strengthen the “expansion”.

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ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 17:33 + в цитатник

Macaron Coin Purse

sew macaron coin purse

Sew Macaron Coin Purse

To make: 1
Materials:
1. Cover Button, diameter 1 1/2″ (38mm) – 2 pairs
2. Fabric – Polka-dot, 5 1/2″ x 3″
3. Fabric – lining, 5 1/2″ x 3″
4. Fabric – zipper seam binder, 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″
5. Batting – 4″ x 2″
6. Zipper – 5″ ( I used 6″ metal zipper and shortened in to 5″ by using this tutorial)
7. Card stock (for tracing) – 2 3/4″ circle and 2″ circle
8. Ribbon – 3/8″ x 2″

Tools:
1. Sewing kits
2. Pencil and/or fabric marker
3. Wire cutter
4. Scissors
5. Tacky Glue / Mod Podge / Fabric glue

Finished Dimension:
1 3/4″ (Dia.) x 1 1/4″ (H)

macaron purse materialsGet ready all the materials and tools needed to sew a macaron coin purse.

Sew to join the zipper tape together above the top stops.
Fold the ribbon into half and sew it on the bottom stop with ends facing zipper end.

Fold the zipper right side together and sew to join it into a ring.

Trim the zipper ends to 1/2″ seam allowance from the stops.
Fold the 1 1/2″ square fabric into half then fold a seam allowance of 1/4″.

Encase the seam allowance and bind it by sewing the fabric onto it.

Bend the binder to the bottom stop side and sew it on the zipper.

Turn to the right side and this is how your zipper is going to look like.

Make small running stitches along the edges of the zipper. Pull to gather.
Repeat on the other side.
Set aside.

Cut away the button studs from the back plates. Be careful and point the stud away from you and /or anyone while cutting it. This little tiny metal can really shoot far.
Set aside.

Trace circles to the fabrics with pencil or fabric marker.
2 3/4″ circle on main polka-dot fabric and lining fabric, cut 2 from each fabric.
2″ circle on batting, cut 2.

Apply a thin layer of glue on the cover and attach it to the batting.
Make 2.
Let dry or until safe to work on it.

Make small running stitches along the edge of the fabric. Place the cover onto the fabric.

Pull the thread and gather the fabric onto the cover snugly. Knot the thread.

Repeat the same to another cover and 2 back plates.

Use an erasable fabric marker to plot a circle along the back of the cover. The line should be on top of the metal edge of the cover.

Slip stitch the cover to the zipper, about 3/8″ from the center line of the zipper.
The further you sew from the zipper, the bigger the coin purse space is.

Completed 1 cover, repeat the same to the other side.

Turn to the inside, place the back plate on and slip stitch it to the zipper.
Repeat the same on the other plate.

A completed macaron coin purse. The storage space is quite small, good for keeping ring, and bracelet. Or, merely use it as a key chain or hanging ornament.
If you can find a small circle mirror of about 1″ to 1 1/4″, glue it on the back plate and turn this macaron coin purse into a small cosmetic mirror.

View from the bottom stop of the macaron coin purse.

Another view when the coin purse is placed vertically.
Have a nice day & happy sewing :)

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ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 17:30 + в цитатник

Locker Hook Tutorial: Let’s Hook And Lock The Loops!!!

Locker Hook Tutorial: Basic Preparation

I fell in love with hook locking after I bought the book Hook, Loop ‘n’ Lock: Create Fun and Easy Locker Hooked Projects written by Theresa Pulido last November. The moment I saw the cover I knew I was not going to leave the bookstore until I owned it. Confirmed that I must get one after flipping through the books. The instructions and the projects in this book are so appealing and tempting,  I can’t help myself for not trying 1 out.

The way I hook and lock is a little different from the book, so if you want to know how Theresa did it, please refer to Hook, Loop ‘n’ Lock: Create Fun and Easy Locker Hooked Projects. As a beginner and without a proper locker hooking hook, I am afraid that I don’t have an even tension and might spoil the beauty of the crafts. So…. I made my own loop-lock tool by using a disposable chopstick. This method works, just look at how my first locker hook project turns out in my giveaway post!!! It is simple, just engrave a groove (approx. 0.5mm deep) about an inch from the tip of the chopstick so that you can tie a yarn or strong thread there. I used only about 3 inch length of the chopstick but you can use a full length if you prefer.

Due to the details of this tutorial, I have to split it to 3 parts:

1. Basic preparation
2. How to hook and lock the loops
3. Finishing touch

To start off with the basic preparation of locker hooking, you will need to get the following materials:
1. Hooking rug canvas
2. Crochet hook (2-3mm size) & the locking “chopstick” or locker hook if you are able find one
3. Fabrics or pre-cut fabric strips (you can also use wool yarn, T-shirt yarn, or plastics strips)
4. Strong yarn or thread for the “locking”
5. Permanent marker
6. Scissor
7. Measuring tape
8. Pattern
9. Rotary cutter, ruler and cutting mat (if you choose to cut your own fabric strips)
Prepare the Canvas
Draw and mark the pattern [click the link to get the free pattern of the coasters] on your hooking rug canvas with permanent marker. Though it is not a must but it is easy so that you don’t have to refer to the paper pattern while lock-hooking.
Leave at least 2 extra squares at the edge for a smaller project (eg. coaster) and 5 squares for bigger project (eg. rug). We are going to fold the edge in for a steadier construction.

Snip off the corner of the extra square so that you can fold it in nicely.

Make a few stitches to secure the fold of the edge.

Prepare the Fabric Strips
Cut the fabric by using scissors or rotary cutter. The latter will give you straighter and more even strips and it is faster then using scissors.
As a rule of thumb, cut the fabric about 3 times the width of each small square of the canvas. For thicker fabric like upholstery material, cut 1/2 a square smaller, and for thinner fabric, cut 1/2 to 1 square bigger.
To make the cutting faster, fold the fabric to 2 – 4 layers thick, press the cutter a little and cut it by using new blade.

Which way to cut the strip, horizontal or vertical? Good question…. I would say both ways work depend on the type of fabric you use. Cotton or quilt-weight fabric can be cut in both way, you can even use “tear method” if you want a fray look on your project as tearing fabric strips create more frays on the bare edges.
Since I am using poly jersey interlock material, I cut it vertically so that it won’t curl up like my T-shirt yarn.
All set and we are ready for the lock hooking adventure!!!


Now, you have all the materials ready, let’s hook and lock the loops!!!! I illustrate it with one of the coasters I made for the giveaway.
I am currently working on a bigger project for my home, should be able to complete just in-time for the Chinese New Year which falls on the same day as Valentine’s day this year, yes, double celebration on 14 Feb 2010!!!!
As I mentioned in my basic preparation post, my method is a little different since I am using my own locking chopstick. Pro – this is suitable for beginners and for those who can’t find a locker hook, Con – slower in process. If you are able to find a locker hook, Theresa is more than happy to share with you how to locker hook with the hook. Please find the video at the end of this post that she demonstrates it with a trivet making. A big thank you to Theresa, who allows me to embed her video in Craft Passion.
Get all your materials ready:
1. Rug canvas with pre-drawn pattern and with the edges sewn up.
2. Crochet hook and the chopstick “locking” tool I invented
3. Tapestry needle
4. Fabric strips
5. Scissors
Sew A Border
First, sew a border at the 4 edges of the project. Thread a fabric strip of about 1.5m through the eye of the tapestry needle, it will caused excessive fraying if your strip is too long. Start whip stitching on the second square from the edge, you can whip stitch on the 1st square if you prefer thinner border. Leaving a tail of about 4cm long, catch the tail and whip stitch it along the edge as you go to secure it.

You will need to pass through the square twice when you reach the corner. This is to make sure that you can cover the corner nicely with fabric.

Adjust the fabric so that it covers nicely by overlapping each fabric a little before tightening the stitch.
When you reach the end of the strip, pass the needle through a few loops and pull the end through the loops. Trim off excessive strip. Continue with a new strip and repeat the steps above.
Hook And Lock The Loops
Use a length of about 2 m long yarn or strong thread, tie one end to the locking chopstick and the other end to the 1st square that you are going to hook a loop. Place the fabric strip under the canvas.
If your locking yarn happens to finish before your project, just cut the yarn out from the locking chopstick and tie a knot to the end with a new yarn, leaving about 2-3 cm length for the ends, tie the other end of the new yarn to the locking chopstick and you can continue with the locker hook. Be a little careful when pulling the yarn with the knot through the loops, sometime it will get stuck, just help it pass through the huddle by “massaging” the loops a little.

Use a crochet hook to hook up a loop of fabric from bottom to top via the rug canvas square. Insert the locking chopstick through the loop. The strip tends to fold up into halve the width when hook up. I like my fabric to open flat so that it wrinkles between the square. Some people like a folded type, in that case, just let it be and don’t open the strip flat. Leaving a tail of about 4cm, don’t do anything on the tail yet, we are going to take care of it after the project is finished.
Pull the strip so that the loop sit on the chopstick tightly. The locking chopstick not only act as a locking tool, it is also a tension gauging medium. You will have an even height of loops through-out the project.
Continue hooking up the fabric strip onto the chopstick, move the chopstick forward a little as you go. When you reach the end, pull the chopstick completely out with the yarn passing through all the loops. The function of the yarn is to lock all the loops in place so that the loop won’t get out from the canvas square.
Rotate the canvas 180 deg and work on the second row and so on.
Besides locker hooking row by row horizontally, you can also go round and round, just rotate the canvas 90 deg and work on the column.

Locker hooking a single color is simple, just keep on locker hook with the same color fabric strips, one after another. But if you have a pattern which uses different colors, managing the strips becomes challenging. In order to complete a neat and tidy locker hook project, we must keep the strips-crossing at the back to the minimum. You don’t want to have a bumpy bottom, right?
As an example, I used 5 strips for the coaster of the number “0″. When I locker hooked row by row, I just used the correct strip according to the pattern on the canvas to avoid bringing it across at the back each time I need to change color.

Just look at the back of the coaster, I ended up having only 10 ends to manage. You can see that the back is flat without any messy zigzag crossing here and there.
You are near to completion, just left the finishing touch and you are done!



Locker Hook Tutorial: Finishing Touch

Locker Hook Coasters @ Starbucks

Locker Hook Coasters @ Starbucks

Picture 1 of 6 (Click "Next" for more pictures)

Now you have seen my Locker Hook tutorial on the Basic Preparation and Hook-Loop-Lock, and probably finishing a project up to this point (pattern here). I am going to show you how to tidy up the project by hiding away all the ends (fabric strips and locking yarn) and cover up the back of the work.

I am so proud of myself to come out with these coasters which I am giving them away! I brought them to Starbucks one afternoon when I needed a coffee kick to get my brains going. Took some photos of them with the coffee mug for the keepsake as I am going to mail this to Diana, the lucky winner who won them in my January Giveaway Draw. Well, I can always reproduce them, but the feeling will be different.

Hiding The Ends
Turn to the back, bring all the ends to front by using a tapestry needle. Insert the needle to the next square of the end, pass the end through the eye of the needle and pull it over to the front. Never use the same square when passing  the ends from back to front as you will undone your last loop.

the back of the coaster is so tidy…

The front is full of “ends”.

Just like looping the ends of the border in the previous post, traverse the end by using the tapestry needle and bring them into the loops and hide it there. Trim off the excessive length. If you are afraid that end will come off for some heavy usage project eg. rug, you can apply some glue to the end.
Do the same to the locking yarn ends.

After all ends are hidden!

Handling The Back
Iron on a piece of interfacing with the size smaller than the border. The loops will be extra secure if you do this step. The interfacing will glue the fabric in place and hence further lock it there.
Cut a piece of lining fabric for the back of the coaster with the size exact to the dimension of the coaster. Fold the 4 edges in so that it is slightly smaller than the coaster, iron it to fix the fold.

Place it on the back of the coaster and secure it with pins.

Stitch them up with slip stitch. Stitching on the coaster.

Stitching on the lining.
You can use heatnbond double-sided adhesive interfacing for non-wash projects, in that case, you don’t have to fold the edges and stitch them up, just cut the lining to the exact size you want, iron it with heatnbond onto the coaster’s back.
Personally, I like to stitch them up though it is more time consuming, but I like everything to be long lasting and flexible, as I never know if I will wash the project one day even though it is just an ornaments, it will cover with dust overtime, right!


The coasters are ready to get into service!!!!
I hope you enjoy these 3 parts of tutorials. Just like all my handmades and tutorials, I have put a lot of afford on them because I believe beautiful crafts are meant to be shared and not to be kept to myself. Please throw in any questions or comments as it is always opened for you. I will try my best to answer, if I can’t, I believe Theresa would be happy to help.
Also, you should get a copy of Theresa‘s “Hook, Loop & Lock” she has plenty of beautiful projects and patterns there.

 

 

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ƒекорируем абажур в€занием полосками из джерси

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ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 17:20 + в цитатник

Crochet: Dolly LampShade Cover

Crochet Loopy Lamp Shade Cover

Crochet Loopy Lamp Shade Cover


It’s time to give my old lampshade a new look!!! I crochet a lampshade cover for the SKIMRA I bought at Ikea many years ago. See how it brightens up a room after putting on a new dress? This new lamp has since “migrated” to my daughter’s room and never look back any more!
 
Don’t worry if you don’t have the exact material ie. knitted jersey strips from my stashed and the lampshade I bought from Ikea, follow the tutorial further down to adapt this method to suit your old lampshade and the yarn of your choice. Well, all you need to do are taking some measurements and do some simple maths to create your own lampshade pattern. It’s totally flexible!!!
 
Get my typical crochet pattern after this jump and jump further down for the tutorial.
 
dolly lampshade

Crochet Pattern

Difficulty Level:
Advance Beginner, must know how to crochet ls [loop stitch], sc, sc2tog, slst & ch.

Materials & Tools:
1. Yarn : knitted poly jersey cut strips, 3/4″ wide, qty: not sure (they were from my stashed) but I guessed that 1 1/2 yards of main color and 1 yard of secondary color should be more than enough for a small lampshade I have.
2. Crochet hook: 5 mm
3. Tapestry Needle
4. Lampshade, Ikea’s SKIMRA, or if you used other lampshade, go to the tutorial further down to create your own lampshade cover pattern.
5. Measuring tape or ruler
6. Calculator

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
ls = loop stitch
dec 1 st = sc2tog = single crochet 2 together or single crochet decrease
slst = slip stitch
st = stitch
NOTE: when dec 1 st, do the sc2tog anywhere within the round but away from the position of adjacent dec round. For example: when the dec is on the 3 sts, do the next dec at 23 sts, then 3rd dec at 13 and forth dec at 33 and so on…. This will make the lampshade slopes evenly and won’t tilt at one side.

Crochet pattern:
Ruby pink
Base chain: ch 46, slst to the first ch to form a loop.
rnd 1: ch1, sc 46, slst to first ch, turn.
rnd 2: ch1, ls 46, slst to first ch, turn.
rnd 3: ch1, sc 45, dec 1 st (see NOTE at abbreviations), slst to first ch, turn.
rnd 4: ch1, ls 45, slst to first ch, turn.
rnd 5: ch1, sc 45, slst to first ch, turn.
rnd 6: ch1, ls 45, slst to first ch, turn.
rnd 7: ch1, sc 44, dec 1 st, slst to first ch, turn.
rnd 8: ch1, ls 44, slst to first ch, turn.
Baby pink
rnd 9: ch1, sc 43, dec 1 st, slst to first ch, turn.
rnd 10: ch1, ls 43, slst to first ch, turn.
rnd 11: ch1, sc 43, slst to first ch, turn.
rnd 12: ch1, ls 43, slst to first ch, turn.
rnd 13: ch1, sc 42, dec 1 st, slst to first ch, turn.
rnd 14: ch1 sc 42, slst to first ch, turn.
rnd 15: ch1, sc 41, dec 1 st, slst to first ch, turn.
Ruby pink
rnd 16 – 17: ch1 sc 41, slst to first ch, turn.
rnd 18: ch1, sc 40, dec 1 st, slst to first ch, turn.
rnd 19 – 20: ch1 sc 40, slst to first ch, turn.
rnd 21: ch1, sc 39, dec 1 st,, slst to first ch, turn.
rnd 22 – 23: ch1 sc 39, slst to first ch, turn.
rnd 24: ch1, sc 38, dec 1 st,, slst to first ch, turn.
rnd 25 – 26: ch1 sc 38, slst to first ch, turn.
rnd 27: ch1, sc 37, dec 1 st,, slst to first ch, turn.
rnd 28 – 29: ch1 sc 37, slst to first ch, turn.
rnd 30: ch1, sc 36, dec 1 st, slst to first ch.
fastern off and hide yarn

Tutorial
Method and Concept

measure lampshadeTake measurement on the existing lampshade {value in [ ] is my measurement}:
1. Bottom circumference (C1) [ 20"]
2. Top circumference (C1) [15 1/4"]
3. Height or Length (L) [11"]

crochet tensionUse the hook size recommended by the yarn manufacturer, make a 5″x5″ swatch or test square of sc crochet to gauge your crochet tension.
Check the amounts of rows (R) and sts (S) in 3″x3″ square.
[I have 8 row, 7 sts in 3"x3" square]
Do the following maths to get the require rounds and stitches to come out with the crochet pattern for your lampshade {my calculation is in [ ]}.
Bottom circumference in stitch = C1 x S / 3 [46 sts]
Top circumference in stitch = C2 x S / 3 [36 sts]
Length = L x R / 3 [30 rows]
[from my calculation, I need to decrease 10 sts in 30 rows, i.e. make a decrement every 3 rows.]

Loopy lampshade coverMake a chain loop based on the number of stitches required for the bottom circumference.
Crochet from bottom up while decrease (sc2tog) the stitches evenly till you reach the length and top circumference. Scatter the decrement stitches so that the lampshade won’t tilt to one side.
Turn while you proceed to the next round, loop stitch (ls) forms on the other side away from the one facing you. Alternate the round of ls with sc, ie. 1 round of ls 1 round of sc, 1 round of ls and so on. {I used alternate}.
Crochet about 1/3 of the total length with loop stitch (alternate with sc stitch), follow by all sc stitch to the rest of the 2/3.
Change color when you reach 1/4 and 1/2 of the pattern.

crochet pattern flower bouquetEmbellish the shade with something nice, for example:
Flower bouquet – pattern and tutorial to follow soon.
Pom-pom – just roll the balance fabric strips across your palm (the more rounds the fuller the pom-pom will be), take out and tie really hard at the center. Cut the loops and trim them to make the pom-pom looks round and balance.
Other suggestions:
1. Insert some beads into the strip, and put 1 bead when crochet each loop for a gypsy look
2. Glue a row of pearl bead garland at the top edge for a classy look

 

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African Flower Crochet Purse

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ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 17:10 + в цитатник

African Flower Crochet Purse

african flower crochet purse with lining and handle

Sew African Flower Crochet Purse

To make: 1
Sewing Pattern: Download pdf sewing pattern here.

Materials:
1. Fabric – Polka dot, 18″ x 20″
2. Fabric – beige, 18″ x 20″
3. Fabric – white, 18″ x 20″
4. Fabric – pocket (beige), 7 1/2″ x 8 1/2″
5. Batting – 18″ x 20″
6. Zipper – 6″, metal teeth
7. Canvas handle – 1″ width, 16″ x 2 nos.
8. Magnet closure
9. Crochet purse with African Flower (link to the pattern and tutorial)

Tools:
1. Sewing machine
2. Sewing kits
3. Carbon and tracing wheel
4. Erasable fabric marker
5. Scissors
6. Printer, letter size (8.5″ x 11″) paper 3 pcs. & glue
7. Fabric glue

Finished Dimension:
11 1/2″ (W) x 6 3/4″ (H) x 5″ (D) without handle

materials to sew crochet pursePrepare all the materials as per the above list.
Download and printout the sewing pattern for the purse. Glue pattern on page 1 and 2 side by side. Cut out the pattern from paper.
If your crochet flower motif’s dimension is different from the one stated in part 1, adjust sewing pattern accordingly during the printing by reduction or enlargement.
Please note that the crochet purse will look smaller than the bag lining / insert after the motifs are joined up. The matter of fact that it fits snugly on the lining.

Quilt hexagonsTrace the sewing pattern on the beige fabric with carbon paper and tracing wheel. Mark handle positions.
Lay the white fabric on your table, then lay a batting on top of it. Cover them with the traced beige fabric. Pin.
Quilt the hexagons and purse outlines, you may quilt the top lines too if you wish.

Fold the quilted piece into halve with right side facing each other.
Align side seamlines and sew.
Trim to 1/2″ seam allowance.

Fold the base, align and sew. Trim to 1/2″ seam allowance.

Turn, with right side facing out. You may check the dimension with the crochet purse to see if you need any adjustment. Usually you won’t need if your flower size is correct.
Again, the crochet piece might look a little smaller but since it can be stretched a little, don’t worry too much.

Trace the sewing pattern on the wrong side of the polka dots fabric. Trace only the seam lines.
Mark zipper, magnet closure and side opening (for turning) positions.

Sew zipper pocket on the polka dot fabric. Refer to this tutorial for the zipper pocket making.

Sew side seams, and don’t forget to reserve an opening for the purse to turn right side out in the later stage. Remember to make a few back stitches so that the seam line is strong for the turning.
Sew base seams as well.

I am using ordinary 1/2″ magnets (small but strong magnets) as the magnet closure snap. If you are using those specially for bag and purse magnet closures, install it as per it’s instruction.
Put a small amount of fabric glue on both sides of the magnet and attach it on the marking. Cover it with a small piece of fabric.
Repeat the same to the other side.

Slot the beige quilted piece into the polka dot, with right side facing each other.

Sew and trim the top edges. Clip seam allowance on the zig zag points.

Turn the purse right side out from the 4″ opening. Do it slowly as the purse is quite thick to go through the small opening.
Align all corners and seamlines. Press it with warm iron if required.

Mark the magnet outlines with erasable fabric marker. Stitch around it with zipper foot. Sew it slowly so the circle is even and neat.
Top stitch the top zig zag edge.

Sew canvas handles on the marking with matching thread.
If your canvas handle becomes ravel terribly on the raw/cut end, lightly burn it with flame to melt the fibers and thus stop it from raveling.

Match the hexagons of crochet piece and sewing piece.
Sew the hexagon corners from the wrong side of the crochet piece to the right side of the sewing piece. Work around from bottom to top.
Sew more stitches on the top edge so that it covers up nicely.

crochet african flower motifThe African Flower motifs before white border.
The African Flower motifs with white border.
crochet african flower squareThe purse needs 4 square flowers to make the 4 corners at the base.

Square African Flower motif before white border.
Square African Flower motif after white border.
After all the motifs are done, arrange them in this way.
3
4
3 (with 2 square at both sides)
8
3 (with 2 square at both sides)
4
3

joining african flower motifsJoin the motif on their vertical sides, crochet slips stitches on the front loops only to join the flowers from the wrong side.
Use the same color yarn, join the rows to make them into purse that looks like the one below.

The next tutorial will be on sewing the lining and handles to complete the African Flower Purse.
If you are happy with the purse without lining, you can always put on the handle and use it now but I swear that the purse will look more elegant and stable with a lining on.

Crochet African Flower Purse


african flower crochet purse with lining and handle

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ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 17:02 + в цитатник

Crochet Pattern: 5-Petal Flower

ƒополнение к моему посту по декору сумочки

5 Petals Flower main

I created the crochet pattern for the blue 5-petal flower that I attached on “The Dazzles” after some requests from readers. And that was weeks ago, I have a tough time writing the crochet pattern as it involved 2 layers on the petals, front and rear, and they then join-up by single crochet the outer row along the petal. I want to make sure that my instruction is clear for you all to understand. So…. in order to make it easier to understand, I photographed and showed some of the easy-to-get-confuse instructions in pictures :)

Crochet Pattern: 5-Petal Flower

pattern sheet
Click image to get free pattern in downloadable and printable PDF file
If you don’t have acrobat reader to view the pdf file, get it here.

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
st = stitch
sl knot = slip knot
slst = slip stitch
flo= front loop only
hdc= half double crochet
dc = double crochet
fo = fasten off

Materials:
1. Yarn (suitable for 3mm crochet hook)
2. 3mm crochet hook
3. Small amount of poly-fill
4. Decoration rhinestones and beads
5. Elastic hairband and brooch pin

Finished dimension:
approx. Diameter 115cm (4.5”)

Crochet Pattern:
Center
beg sl knot
r1 – ch10, join with slst on the first ch to form a base ring
r2 – ch1, 15sc in ring, join with slst on first ch to complete r2

Petals (5 clusters)
*(all crochet stitch is 1 crochet to 1 stitch, no increment, no decrement)
**
r1 – ch16, turn
r2 – 1sc on 2nd st from the hook, 2sc, 1hdc, 7dc, 1hdc, 3sc, 1sc flo onto the 1st st of the centre ring, turn
r3 – 1sc on 2nd st from the hook, 1sc, 1hdc, 9dc, 1hdc, 2sc, turn
r4 – 1sc on the 1st st from the hook, 1 hdc, 9dc, 1hdc, 3sc, 1sc flo onto the 2nd st of the center ring, turn
r5 – 1sc on the 2nd st from the hook, 1sc, 1hdc, 9dc, 1hdc, 2sc, turn
r6 – 1sc on the 1st st from the hook, 2sc, 1hdc, 7dc, 1hdc, 3sc, 1sc flo onto the 3rd st of the center ring, turn**
Repeat ** 4 times to make 5 petals on the front layer
Repeat ** 5 times to make another 5 petals on the rear layer
fo and hide the yarn end into the flower.

Join
Join the 2 layers of petals by single crochet the outer row together. 15sc on side, 3sc on tip, 15sc on side again, move on to the next petal. Stuff small amount of poly-fill into the petals before completely join-up both layer. Repeat 4 times for the other 4 petals.

Decoration
Sew some rhinestones and beads onto the petals to decorate it. Sew the elastic band and attach the brooch pin at the back of the flower to make it into hairband-brooch combo.

Note: The yarn I am using is woven type acrylic fiber which has a little elasticity and will not fray, you can try other yarn to create a different style on it.

crochet1Get ready to crochet the petal.

crochet2Make 16 chains follow the pattern to crochet row 2 until you reach “flo” instruction.

crochet3flo – Front loop only.This is the single crochet of the front-loop-only of the center ring. I used the front loop for layer 1, and reserved the back-loop for the layer 2 of the petal.

crochet5This is 1 layer of 5 petals and I am ready to make the second layer by using another loop of the stitch.

crochet6This is the rear side of the 1st layer. See the loop that I reserved (yellow pointer), now I am going to use this loop to crochet the layer 2 of the petal.

crochet7Completed first petal that has 2 layers :) Continue to crochet the rest until you have all 5 petals for layer 2.

crochet8Time to join-up both layer with single crochet the outer row along the petal.

crochet9Stuff some small amount of poly-fill to make the flower a little filling to add dimension to it. Continue to crochet until you reach the end of the petal, move on to the next petal. Skip the stitch that crocheted on the center ring.

5 Petals Flower 2

Now you have completed the bare 5-petal flower, you can decorate it with beads and rhinestones to glamorize it (like the blue one I have made).

Attach an elastic hairband and a brooch pin at the rear side of the flower by hot glue, and the flower is ready to charm your apparel.

Have fun making one today!!!!

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ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 16:56 + в цитатник

Sewing: Note Book Cover {Tutorial & Pattern}

how to sew notebook cover

Difficulty: Intermediate
Material:

1. Main Cover Fabric = 22 3/4″ x 9 3/4″
2. Side Lining = 5 1/2″ x 9 3/4″ (2 pcs.)
3. Center Lining = 13 1/4″ x 9 3/4″
4. Batting (5mm loft) = 12 3/4″ x 8 3/4″
5. Rigid Fusible Interfacing = 4 1/2″ x 8 3/4″ (2 pcs.), 12 1/4″ x 8 1/2″
6. Ribbon = 15″
7. Appliques fabric = Floral, brown, alphabet
8. Embroidery flosses
9. Sewable magnetic button (1 pair)
10. Decorative button
11. A5 Note Book: 12 1/4″ around (including the binder), 8 1/4″ height

Tools

1. Sewing essential
2. Sewing Machine
3. Iron
4. Water erasable pen

Note Book Cover Pattern TutorialClick the picture to download the pattern. Print it in letter size paper, don’t scale. Enlarge according to the pattern for page 2-4.
Remark:
If your notebook is not in A5 size, measure the width (around) and height:
1. Add 9 1/2″ to the width for the main fabric,
2. Add 1/2″ of the all the height, except center lining 1/4″.

Notebook Cover Tutorial PatternCut all materials according to patterns and seam allowances. No seam allowance for fusible interfacing and batting.
Baste batting to the wrong side of the center part of the main cover.
Embellish and embroidery the appliques and patterns onto the cover.
Make a few embossing hearts at the back cover if you like.

Applique TopstitchNeedle turn and slip stitch the floral heart applique with hand, then top stitch the center with sewing machine.
Embroidery the wording by using branch stitch.
Sew the smaller heart by using sewing machine.
To make the burnt effect of the letter applique, cut a slightly bigger square of an alphabet fabric, burnt the edges with tea-light candle until it reaches the shape you want. Sew it on the front cover with sewing machine.

Notebook Cover Tutorial PatternHide thread ends by pulling both front thread ends to the wrong side of the stitch, tie them up and trim the ends.
This will ensure the threads won’t come off and stick out to the front.

Notebook Cover Tutorial PatternFold the top and bottom edges of the pen holder to the center, sew a zigzag stitch along. Topstitch near the edges.
Sew the sides together, turn, sew it on the Pen Holder markers.
With right side facing each other, sew around the fastener, leaving an opening on the straight vertical edge. Clip curve. Turn and fold in the seam allowance of the opening. Topstitch around and sew 1/2″ length to the Fastener markers on the cover.
Sew on magnetic button and decorative button.

Notebook Cover Tutorial PatternIron rigid fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the left and right of the main cover.

Notebook Cover Tutorial PatternWith right side facing each other, sew side linings to the main cover.
Clip corner, turn. Adjust corner and press.
Press top & bottom edge of the cover & baste them in place.
Sew pocket in place.
Baste bookmark ribbon to the right of the center (with wrong side of the cover facing you).
Iron rigid fusible interfacing to the center lining, fold top and bottom edges in and press.

Notebook Cover Tutorial PatternPlace the center lining on top of the wrong side of the cover. Pin to secure.
Since the center part of the cover is bigger than the center lining, align the side edges and leave extra space on the center to account for the fold of the note book.

Note Book Cover Tutorial Pattern FreeFlip the left and right side lining onto it. Sew along the red lines.

Notebook Cover Tutorial PatternSlot the front and back cover to the side lining pockets.

Notebook Cover Tutorial Pattern Close the note book and check for the fitting. Just in case it is a little too tight, trim the edges of the note book to make them fit better.
Mine fitted very well, no modification was needed.

Notebook Cover Tutorial PatternInsert a pen into the pen holder. Check for the position to sew the other pair of of the magnetic button.

sew notebook cover

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ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 16:51 + в цитатник

Sewing Tutorial: Ring Bearer Pillow

Hand Sewing Wedding Ring Bearer Pillow Tutorialwidth=

Either in-person or via the web, it is my pleasure to have met many handicraft hobbyists that generously share among their works and creativity. I am glad to have this site that bring us closer to each other. It is you, dear readers that shared your ingenious ideas to me to develop and create more. It is you that modified some of my patterns to let them have a different look and I really appreciate your inputs. And, I am also delighted that some of you even shared your know how and tutorial of your beautiful craft here in Craft Passion.

(p/s: Submit yours if you have a fabulous tutorial to share.)

I get to know Brenda via Craft Passion Facebook Fan Page, the moment I saw her posted up her photo of the Linking Hearts ring bearer pillow, I fell in love immediately. I wrote to her to ask if she would like to share the tutorial in Craft Passion; to my wishful thinking, she agreed!!! This is how I get to know Brenda….. not knowing that she is also a friend of my secondary school classmate, what a small world!

Let’s get the tutorial on how to hand sew this divine ring bearer pillow. Be it for your own wedding or your friends or your relatives wedding, it sure vows the marriage with happiness.


 

Tutor: Brenda
Personal Blog: Pepperratzies

 

On the very special day of every girl’s life, the wedding day, a lot of time and effort are spent to ensure that their dream wedding can unfold right in front of their eyes. Almost every girl would have their wedding day painted with lots of flowers and romantic setting, to mark the end of their single-hood and a celebration to a life of couple-hood.

The ring pillow holds the wedding ring that symbolizes the unity and love of the couple. Making your own ring pillow can be simple and unique as the embellishment that you choose can be something dear to you, something old, something blue or something new. :)

The design of this ring pillow holds special meaning with the 2 hearts intertwined with chained stitch which brings the meaning of hearts chained together with love.

Sewing Wedding Ring Pillow TutorialIn this hands on, I used very simple ingredients. The design that I made is called ‘The linking hearts’ for the couple whose hearts are inter-twined.
You will need:
• 2 pieces of 15×15 cm felt cloth
• 2 embellishment of your heart desire
• Satin ribbons
• Needle and thread

Sewing Wedding Ring Pillow TutorialFirst, design your ring pillow. Place the items that you choose into positions that you like until you get the perfect vision. Then you draw out the ‘chain’ that is to link from 1 heart to the other.
Chain stitchNext, the stitches that I used is Chain Stitch, which is also to symbolize the chain for the 2 hearts.
Stitch the heartsI then place the 2 heart embellishment on top of each end of the chain and stitch them onto the felt cloth.
Stitch ribbon and buttonsOnce the hearts are on, I chose 2 types of ribbons, a printed one and a satin ribbon to hold the rings. Right on top of the ribbon, I stitched a flower button each to make them prettier. I love buttons in my crafts, so I tried to use them as often as I can.
Blanket stitch edgeOnce all the items are stitched firmly, join the 2 pieces of felt cloth and use Blanket Stitch to close up the sides. Do not close up the entire 4 sides as you will need to leave a hole for you to stuff Polyfill in. Fill the pillow with Polyfill or cotton, if you like. Finally, close up the ring pillow and Voila!! You will have your very own ring pillow. :)

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ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 16:49 + в цитатник

Sewing: Owl Key Chain Holder {Pattern & Tutorial}

Sewing: Owl Key Chain Holder {Pattern & Tutorial}

Sewing: Owl Key Chain Holder {Pattern & Tutorial}

Picture 1 of 4 (Click "Next" for more pictures)


This Owl Key Chain Holder is a great idea to sew as a gift for friends & relatives in any occasion. The used of contrasting color for the lining gives a funky feel, however, to make it look more harmony, you can choose coordinating color for the fabric/lining choice. Keep you keys in the cozy holder of the owl’s belly by pulling the leaves, not only prevent the keys from scratching your bag’s lining, when you are back, just hang it on the wall or cabinet {click here or next to see the photo}. NEAT!!!

This keychain holder is one of my best selling handmade in the recent charity sales, just like the pencil holder, they were all sold out during the pre-sale. Hope you like it and sew one soon. Please share your handmade photos in the Facebook page.

Recently, I found a word call “Zakka” which derived from the Japanese “zak-ka” (雑貨) that means “many things”. Wikipedia quoted that “Zakka refers to everything and anything that improves your home, life and appearance”.  Well, aren’t we who handmade little on this and that called zakka too? If you google “Zakka image” then look at the piggy pillow, turtle pincushion, pom-pom’s, bags & purses , this owl keychain holder & many more that I have created, compare them, you will relate :) Are you one of the Zakka crafters too?

Don’t worry about being zakka or not, as long as we are happy with what we are making and keep on improving it, we are progressing everyday!!!

Let’s get the pattern which was co-designed with my sister Estee, and the step-by-step instruction on how to sew it after the jump.

Happy sewing!!!!

Difficulty Level: Intermediate

Dimension: 3 1/4″ (W) x 5 1/4″ (H)

Material
1. Printed Fabric 5″ x 8″
2. Lining 5″ x 8″
3. Beige fabric 3″ x 3″
4. Felt: White, Beige, Dark Brown & Green
5. Cotton cord, 10″
6. Key Ring
7. Black button, 3/8″, 2 pcs.
8. Fusible web, eg. heat ‘n bond
9. Matching sewing threads

Sewing Owl Key Chain Holder Free PatternPrint the pdf pattern in letter size paper. To get the actual size, select “none” for the page scaling or uncheck the box of the “scale to printable area”, depend on which printer you are using.

Sewing Owl Key Chain HolderCut the fabric and the felt based on pattern layout and get all the materials ready.
Remark: don’t forget to leave a 1/4″ seam allowance for the fabric.

Sewing Owl Key Chain HolderPlace lining to the body fabric with right side facing, sew around but leave an 1 1/2″ opening on the side for turning over.
Clip curve near to sewing line, be careful not to snip the stitches.
Tip: Keep the seam allowance to the minimum at the ears so that you can turn better.
After turning right-side out, it will look like the one on the top.
Now, you have 2 sets of identical owl bodies.

Sewing Owl Key Chain HolderHeat fuse one side of the fusible web to the owl’s belly and facial features.
Peel the paper backing and heat fuse them to the respective positions on one of the owl body.

Sewing Owl Key Chain HolderSew the black buttons to the eyes. Try to keep the knots and sewing threads behind as little as possible for neater finishing. Anyway, if you can’t, don’t worry, one can hardly see the inside after you attach the back of the owl body. ;)
Sewing Owl Key Chain HolderAlign both front and back bodies together with lining facing each other. Topstitch near to the edge, take note on the stitching ends (refer to pattern).

Sewing Owl Key Chain HolderTie the cotton cord to the key ring, measure the length by placing the cord on top of the owl key holder. Mark.

Sewing Owl Key Chain HolderSlide the ends through the top opening, check the length again. I suggest that only half of the ring expose to the outside, provided you have other reason and want it to be longer.

Sewing Owl Key Chain HolderSandwich the cord ends with the leaves. Zig Zag stitch to keep them in place.

Slip your keys into the ring, pull the cord to keep the keys cozy in the owl’s belly.
Sewing Owl Key Chain Holder

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ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 16:44 + в цитатник

Sewing: Puffer Fish {Tutorial}

Sewing Tutorial: Make Puffer Fish From Chenille Mitten
 

Sewing Tutorial: Make Puffer Fish From Chenille Mitten

Picture 1 of 5 (Click "Next" for more pictures)


Sew and make a puffer fish stuffed toy and home deco out of a microfiber chenille mitten…. from square to sphere…. and turning a household’s cleaning glove to a kid’s loving soft toy. With a short elastic cord attach onto it and hang it in your car, stroller or even play pen for your kids to play with, let the puffer fish bounce and bungee jump all over the place. Toss it around, play “monkey catch” with it, or nap with it, it’s going to be your kid’s favorite buddy!!! Click next to view more pictures under the main photo.

Siblings and I used to go fishing at a deserted beach during the old days of childhood. One day we caught “a lot” of puffer fish than usual. In fact, there weren’t a lot of puffer fish in the sea, just that, there was 1 particular hungry puffer fish kept eating our bait and angled by us repeatedly. Knowing that puffer fish is poisonous and can’t be eaten, we released it back to the sea (it ain’t so lucky if we are Japanese, LOL)…. but it kept on coming back with hook scars all over it’s lip. In order not to disturb our fishing fun, we decided to keep it on the land and let it bloat, but will put it back to the sea before it exploded (will it?) or out of breath ;) Looking at how it’s inflating was darn so cute (sorry, I don’t mean to be cruel to animals or fish), it was like blowing a balloon, with it’s funny facial expression, it was telling us that it was gulping it’s favorite air. Watching the fish getting bigger and bigger, rounder and rounder… wow, that piece of memory embedded into me so deeply that I have to make this puffer fish. This idea struck me immediately when I saw the chenille mitten at the store and inspired me.

Hope you will enjoy sewing a chenille mitt puffer fish, here is the step by step instruction:

 

Difficulty Level: Intermediate

Finished Dimension: 6″ (W) x 7″ (L) x 5″ (H)

Material:
1. Microfiber Chenille Mitt
2. Fabric, about 14″ (W) x 7″ (H)
3. Felt (Black & White)
4. Polyester Cord, 1/4″ Ø, 5 1/2″
5. Elastic Cord
6. Ribbon
7. Poly-fill
8. Strong thread
9. Long sewing needle, prefer at least 2″ long

Sewing Puffer Fish From Microfiber Chenille MittenCut fabric to 4″ square for tail, 2 pcs. of 3″ square for fins, 5 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ 45° diagonal for mout

 

Sewing Puffer Fish From Microfiber Chenille MittenAlign the slant edge of the mouth fabric, in right angle to each other and sew with 1/4″ seam allowance.

Sewing Puffer Fish From Microfiber Chenille MittenTurn and press the seam flat. Press one of the raw edge 1/4″ inward.

Sewing Puffer Fish From Microfiber Chenille MittenBaste the polyester cord at the non-press raw edge. Trim off excess cord.

Sewing Puffer Fish From Microfiber Chenille MittenFold the fabric to wrap around the cord and slip stitch along.

Sewing Puffer Fish From Microfiber Chenille MittenTrim off a column or 2 of chenilles at the center between the 2 eyes. Slip stitch the mouth to the face.
Stuff poly-fill from the wrist of the mitten, not too full but full enough to inflate the mitten. You will find that your fish is not round… yet! Don’t freak out!!! The following steps are the secret to make it round without any trimming.


Sewing Puffer Fish From Microfiber Chenille MittenTo make the fish rounder, you need to shorten the length of the sides.
Use double strong thread and make a big knot. Make a stitch at the the side, about 1 1/4″ from the edge of the eye, stitch again at 1 1/2″ from the fist stitch, then back to the first stitch. Squeeze the stuffed mitten a little to bring the 2 points closer to each other before pulling the thread to bring them together. The reason I squeeze the mitten before pulling the thread is because the mitten fabric is a loose woven type, pulling without squeezing might rip off the mitten’s fabric.

Sewing Puffer Fish From Microfiber Chenille MittenMake a few more stitches around it to further secure the tug. Knot and hide the thread end.

Sewing Puffer Fish From Microfiber Chenille MittenSew to attach the fin at the tug site. Repeat the same to the other side.

Sewing Puffer Fish From Microfiber Chenille MittenStuff the mitten more to make it fuller. Trim off the elastic wrist band and leave only about 1″ behind.
Run stitch around and pull to gather to close the opening. Darn a few stitches to fasten it further.

Sewing Puffer Fish From Microfiber Chenille MittenSew the tail to the back to cover all the stitches.
Your puffer fish is done.

Sewing Puffer Fish From Microfiber Chenille MittenLastly, find the center point of the puffer fish and sew the elastic cord to it, then decorate it with a ribbon.
Enjoy!!!
Tip: Pinch the top of the puffer fish to find the balancing point of the puffer fish to sew the hanging cord.

 

 

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ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 16:34 + в цитатник

Crochet: Poinsettia Coaster {Pattern & Tutorial}

Crochet Pattern: Poinsettia Coasters

Crochet Pattern: Poinsettia Coasters

Picture 1 of 3 (Click "Next" for more pictures)

Are you done with Christmas crafting? I am almost done and I am so happy to have designed and made some Christmas theme coasters this year…. I called them Poinsettia Coasters as they have the colors of the poinsettia flowers!!!!

A week ago, I felt like I need something for my table this Christmas but I was totally out of idea of what to make. I blindly walked into a craft shop and bought red, green and white yarns but seriously I didn’t know what I am going to do with them. I felt like I need to buy them because they are “Christmas” colors. I was not worried as I knew that the angels will bring some ideas to me since I have been a good girl all these years!!! Inspiration struck, why not crochet some drink coasters for my table? I altered my original yo-yo puff pattern to make it smaller (about 1″ each) and hence denser. Similar to the wide brim hat I made for my daughter, joined 6 red yo-yo puffs to a center green puff to form a hexagon shape for the red poinsettia. Reverse the colors for a green poinsettia. I have used red and green, what about white color? Guess it or have a quick peek by scrolling down to the end of the post to see what I have done with white yarns :)

 

[Pattern related to Yo-Yo Puff]

Difficulty Level: Beginner, must know how to crochet tr, dc, dc2tog, sl st & ch

Finished size: approx. 3″ dia.
Gauge: Not essential as long as the hook size matches the yarn weight.

Materials & Tools:
1. Yarn : light worsted DK, red and green (about 40g of each to make 6 coasters). Use heavier yarn weight for bigger coasters.
2. Crochet hook: 2.5 mm
3. Tapestry Needle (to join and hide yarn ends)
4. Scissor

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
dc=double crochet
tr=treble (triple) crochet
dc2tog=double crochet decrease
st = stitch
slst = slip stitch
fo = fasten off

Patterns:

Yo-Yo Puff

Written:
Starting Ring: ch4, slst to first chain to form a base ring.
Rnd 1 : ch5, tr17, slst to the 5th chain.
Rnd 2 : ch2, dc on the next st, *dc2tog on the next 2 sts*, repeat * 7 times, slst to the dc loop. fo with at least 4″ long yarn tail.

Diagram:
yo-yo puff crochet diagram pattern

Crochet PoinsettiaFor red poinsettia coasters, prepare 6 red yo-yo puffs and 1 green yo-yo puff by following the above crochet pattern.
Arrange them in a flower shape like the photo on the left.

Use a tapestry needle to sew the chain edge of the 2nd round to the wrong side of the first round slightly away from the center opening.
This is how it looks after the tagging. The opening is smaller and both the top and bottom centers are aligned.
How to join yo yo puffWith wrong side facing each other, join the puffs together by stitching 2 sts of them.
Crochet Poinsettia Drink CoastersRepeat stitching to all the puffs to form a flower shape. Hide and trim yarn ends.

As a variation in colors, turn the poinsettia coaster into snow flakes Christmas tree ornament. So easy! And, if you wonder about the small amigurumi Christmas tree next to it, get the pattern here.
Crochet yo-yo puff snow flakes christmas ornament

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ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 16:28 + в цитатник

Tutorial: Snowman Ornament

Make a Snowman ornament from polyfoam balls

Make a Snowman ornament from polyfoam balls

Picture 1 of 6 (Click "Next" for more pictures)

10 days to go… I am counting down for the Christmas and singing this all day long ~~ ♥ I’m dreaming of a white Christmas, Just like the ones I….. ♥ ~~~ The Christmas spirit is getting higher each and everyday and I am still making Christmas Craft to add into my Christmas decorations. This time it is a snowman where I was inspired by this one which I saw in Singapore.

There is no white Christmas in Malaysia, in reality, I can’t build snowman provided I travel few thousand miles northbound. Well, to quench my thirst for having snow for Christmas, I made a polyfoam snowman instead.

This is a quick craft and it is suitable for kids with a little help and guidance from adult. Let’s get the how-to after this jump….

Finished dimension: Approx. 3 1/4″ (H) x 2″ (W)

Materials:
1. Polyfoam or polystyrene or Styrofoam ball – approx dia. 1″
2. Polyfoam or polystyrene or Styrofoam ball – approx dia. 2″
3. Red felt
4. White yarn
5. Beads, sequins and/or button for embellishment
6. Pearl white glitters

Tools:
1. Scissor
2. Craft Knife
3. Craft glue
4. Hot glue gun
5. Small brush
6. Floral wire
7. Pencil or pen
8. Clothes clip (optional) if you want to bend the hat.
9. Pointy tweezers.

how to make snowman ornamentPre-heat your hot glue gun so that it is ready when you need to use it.
To make the snowman stand-able, cut a small portion from the 2″ polyfoam with craft knife to create a flat base.
If your kids are too small to handle the cutting, please help them to do it.

How to make snowman ornamentPlace the small polyfoam ball on the top of the base ball, find the correct position so that they are straight, mark.
With help from adult, apply a dot of hot glue on the marking and quickly attach the small ball onto it, hold a few second till the glue is set.

How to make snowman ornamentInsert a floral wire into the polyfoam ball assembly, preferably into the head of the snowman.
Brush a layer of craft glue and sprinkle the pearl white glitter to all over snowman except the base.
Set aside for the glue to dry.

How to make snowman ornamentWhile waiting for the glue to dry and glitter to set, prepare the red felt for scarf and hat.
Cut half circle of 3″ diameter for hat and 6″ x 1/2″ for scarf.
I also glittered a 1/4″ bead for the hat.

How to make snowman ornamentWhen the snowman is about half dry (best is to wait till it is completely dry, time needed depends on the viscosity of the craft glue you use), carefully roll the 1/2 circle (with curve side down) onto the head of the snowman, measure the hat size. Mark on the felt.
Apply glue on the overlapping area.

How to make snowman ornamentOverlap the 1/2 circle to make a cone hat for the snowman. Set a side for it to dry or at least until it gets tacky.
How to make snowman ornamentApply glue on the internal edge of the hat and glue the hat to the snowman’s head.

How to make snowman ornamentNext, glue the white yarn on the edge of the hat.
If you want to bend the hat, apply glue at the back of the hat, around the center of the height. Bend the hat and secure it’s position with a clothes clip (as shown in the next picture).

How to make snowman ornamentGlue all the facial features and embellishments to the snowman with craft glue.
Glue the glittered 1/4″ bead to the tip of the hat with hot glue.
Tweezers are handy when handling all these small parts, but be careful when kids are involving.

How to make snowman ornamentCarefully roll the scarf onto the neck of the snowman. Twist the scarf a little so that it fits better on the snowman.
Apply glue to secure it.
Set aside overnight to let it dry completely.

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ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 16:12 + в цитатник

Trapunto Baby Quilt

trapunto baby quilt

Trapunto Baby Quilt

Material:
1. Panel fabric
2. Backing fabric
3. Binding fabric, 2″ wide, slightly longer than the baby quilt circumference [don't have to be bias cut]
4. High Loft polyester batting
5. Cotton batting

Tools:
1. Sewing machine that able to do free motion quilting and able to lower it’s feed dog
2. Curved safety pins or spray on temporary adhesive
3. Ruler
4. Roller cutter
5. Cutting mat
6. Iron
7. Clover 1″ (25mm) bias tape maker (optional)

batting loftHigh loft batting is for trapunto on the prints that you want to make it pops out, and, cotton batting is for the whole baby blanket.

whale trapuntoDetermine which objects/prints you want to apply for trapunto, cut a piece of high loft batting slightly bigger than the print.
Place the batting at the wrong side of the fabric, under the print. Secure with curved safety pin and make sure it covers the whole print.
Change sewing machine presser foot to darning foot, if you are using Bernina, change it BSR (Bernina Stitch Regulator). Lower your feed dog. Stitch around the outlines of the prints with thread color closest to the print main color or the outline color. I used grey or blue.

sun trapuntoFollow the outlines and free motion stitch 2-3 rounds, don’t worry that you can’t follow exactly. Make sure the beginning and the end thread were overlapped, clip them off near to fabric after you have finished, or, you may bring the thread to the back, knot it and cut.
Turn to the wrong side and clip the batting near to the stitching lines outside the print.

stippling stitchAfter you have finished trapunto all the objects, sandwich the cotton batting with the top fabric and a backing fabric. The batting should be a round at least 1″ bigger than the top fabric and the backing fabric is bigger than the batting. Secure with curve safety pins or spray on adhesive.
Stipple stitch the area that you want them to “sink”, for this instances, the sky, the sea and the border. Start from center and work towards the edges. When you reach the trapunto outline, go around it a little outside of it’s outlines.
Notice that the cloud, ship and the white part of sea has no high loft batting underneath them to make the trapunto effect, it give a little raised effect but not as high as those with high loft batting underneath them.

bind blanket edgeTrim the quilted blanket to the correct size with proper right angle corners.
Change presser foot to normal sewing foot, raise the feed dog.
To make the 1/2″ binding with mitered corners, follow this video I found in Youtube. Or, follow this photo tutorial at Craft Stylish.

matched backA quilted blanket with trapunto effect is done, faster than I thought it would take.
Thanks to Bernina, I really love this new toy.

whale trapunto

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ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 16:06 + в цитатник

Crochet Turkey Coasters And Ornaments

Crochet Pattern: Turkey Coasters And Ornaments

Pattern adapted from Jennifer Martin’s pattern in Ravelry after being inspired by 178/365 Flower Potholder.

Dimension:
Finished size: Approximate 6 1/2″ (W) x 5 1/2″ (H)
Gauge: not important as long as the yarn label said it is suitable for 2.5mm to 3.5mm hook.

Materials & Tools:
1. Yarn, acrylic baby yarn, 5 – 6 colors.
2. Crochet hook, 3mm
3. Felt – White, Black and Red
4. Sewing thread – White, Black and Red
5. Sewing needle
6. Scissors

Abbreviations:
sl knot = slip knot
st = stitch
slst = slip stitch (to fasten)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
fo = fasten off
Rnd = round

Crochet Pattern:

Work on right side only, unless stated otherwise.
FRONT
Body
sl knot on hook to begin.
Rnd 1 – ch 4, 14dc into 1st ch, slst to the 4th ch at the beginning rnd. This will give you a total 15 sts in a rnd, counting the 3chs at the beginning rnd as the first 1 dc stitch. (15 sts)
Rnd 2 – ch 3, dc in same st, 2dc in each st around. slst to the 3rd ch at the beginning rnd. fo. (30 sts)
Rnd 3 – New color: ch3, *2dc in next st, dc in next st, repeat * around. slst to the 3rd ch at the beginning round. fo. (45 sts)
Rnd 4 – New color: ch1, sc around. fo. (45 sts)
Tail
Row 1 – New color: ch3, dc in same st, ch1, 2dc in same st, *skip 2 sts, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next st, repeat * until you have made 10 sets. fo.
Row 2 – New color: start at the ch1 space of previous row, ch3, dc in same space, ch1, 2dc in same space, *(2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next ch1 space, repeat * until you reach to the end. fo.
Row 3 – New color: start at the ch1 space of previous row, ch3, 2dc in same space, ch1, 3dc in same space, *(3dc, ch1, 3dc) in next ch1 space, repeat * until you reach to the end. fo.
Row 4 – New color: start at the ch1 space of previous row, ch3, 5dc in same space, *6dc in next ch1 space, repeat * until you reach to the end. fo.

BACK
Follow the front pattern with 1 color only.
When making the tail, you can either follow the front pattern by working on right side only, that is fo at every rnd and start at the first ch1 space of previous rnd.
Or,
Turn your piece to the other side to work without have to fo at each rnd. Make 2 to 3 slst at the beginning of each rnd to get to the ch1 space before beginning the first ch3 for the new rnd. Don’t fo and continue with the next step by joining the front and back pieces up.
Hook Loop: Make a loop at the middle of the tail with ch 10 and slst to the last sc.
Weave in all ends to neaten both front and back pieces.

Joining Front & Back
(Sew facial assemblies on the front before joining the front and back piece. Detail on sewing, please read further down.)

The tail outlining and detailing are made while joining both front and back pieces. All stitches must go through both pieces for joining up.

Place the front piece on top of the back piece, with wrong side facing each other. Line up edges.

Side edge of the tail: *1sc (at the corner to the tail and go through both layers), ch 1, repeat * until you reach the body.
Body & feet: sc in next 7 sts, [make foot: ch 2, *ch 2, sc on 2nd ch from hook, slst to 2nd next ch, repeat * 3 times, sc on next st, sc in the same st of last sc before making foot], sc in next 4 sts, repeat make foot, sc in next 6 sts.
Side edge of the tail: *ch 1, 1sc, repeat * until you reach the corner of the tail
Tail outline and joining:
* sc in next 7 sts. sc in between the 2 shells.
Ch 1, sc around the row below (in between the same 2 shells you just did, only on row 7).
Ch 1, sc around row 6.
Ch 1, sc around row 5 (there are 2 skipped sts available, 1 sc into the closest one, ch 1, then sc into the other).
Ch 1, sc around row 6.
Ch 1, sc around row 7.
Ch 1, sc around row 8.

Facial Assembly: Do this before joining the front and back piece.
1. Cut 2 pcs. of 3/4″ diameter of white felts, 2pcs. of 1/2″ diameter of black felts, 3/4″ red beak and 1 1/4″ long snood.
2. Sew on the front of the turkey with respective color thread.

Get ready some fall color yarns, for example shades of brown, orange, yellow, grey and white.
Cut eyes, beak and snood from felt.

Plan the color combo and arrangement or refer to above photos for suggestion.
Slip knot on crochet hook, crochet 4 chains.

crochet turkey bodyFollow crochet pattern above (rnd 1 to rnd 4) to make the turkey body.

Begin to crochet turkey tail by making 10 sets of “2dc,ch1,2dc” for row 1.
Always begin each row from right hand side with right side facing you.

crochet turkey tailFollow crochet pattern above (row 1 to row 4) to make the turkey tail.

stitch turkey faceOnce the front is done, weave in all ends to neaten.
Sew facial of turkey to the body.

crochet coaster backCrochet the back with single color yarn by repeating the front pattern, except that you can choose to either follow exactly, or, turn your piece as you work on the the tail.
Make a 10 chains hook loop at the middle of the last row.

join front and backPlace the front piece on top of the back piece, with wrong side facing each other. Line up edges.
Crochet along the edge towards the body. Stitches must go through both layers.
Crochet feet.
Crochet towards the turkey tail.

Single crochet 7 stitches on the shell and 1 stitch between the 2 shells.

Crochet 1 chain, then single crochet again between 2 shell on the following row.

Repeat the stitches until you get to the bottom.

Single crochet in the first skip stitches of round 5, chain 1, single crochet on the second skip stitch.
Go up to the top again.

join and detailing the tailContinue to crochet by repeating the stitches for the rest of the tail details.

crochet turkey coaster and ornamentSlip stitch and fastern off the yarn when you reach the first stitch of the joining process.
Weave in the end.
Done!

Crochet Turkey Coasters Ornaments

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ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 16:00 + в цитатник

The Born Of “The Dazzles” Vintage Frame Clutch Bag

May be you were wondering why I just showed you only detailed depictions of “The Dazzle” in my previous post and did not write down the process…. Not my style huh~ you are right…. and I am doing it here!!!!

Blue Flower Frame Clutch Bag2About a month ago, I was having a chat with Sumay, my dear friend, via facebook. She was telling me that she is going to help raise funds for a charity with a party. She was extremely excited about it and told me it is for Rumah Nur Salam which shelters street and stateless children in Kuala Lumpur. She asked me if I wanted to contribute my craft as one of the auction items in this event… “Yes, why not!!!” I replied immediately, it would be so meaningful to contribute my handmade craft for such a good cause.  So, we discussed over the net, brain storming which type of craft should I do, what kind of design and how to make it worth the value in the auction etc…. Since my expertise is in handbag or purse-making, especially ball clasp closure frames clutch, we decided to go with it. This brain storming session for the handbag design took a few days and not only involving Sumay and I, my sister who is also gifted in hand crafts contributed some of her brain juices too….. If you know me long enough, you will know that I am a perfectionist. I have to make sure that all my handmades are perfectly handicrafted, is a one-of-a-kind, limited edition, master-piece, and most importantly, if possible, who ever owns it will be so proud of it…..

fabricI was under great stress for a week during the early stage of the brain storming because I couldn’t find  one design which I was perfectly satisfied with. I almost brokedown into tears as I seemed to have lost my direction and inspirations. I took a car-ride that day just to grab some fresh air and to clear my mind. I stopped in front of a shopping mall, suddenly the inspiration struck me when I saw a girl wearing a nice skirt and walked pass my car. The way she walks is so nice, elegant and simply…. CLASSY…., would it be good if I can make a handbag that resembles this style???? I quickly drove back with the new design in my head as I had no pen and paper in my car to sketch it down immediately. Phew, luckily I didn’t lose my train of thought while travelling back home which took about 45 minutes!!! Needless to say, once I reached home, the first thing i did was to dive into my craft room, sketch it down and begin the creation of “The Dazzle”. I chose my most favourite fabric which is no longer available from the shop and decided to use it.

On the same day I designed and drew out the handbag’s paper pattern. Next step is to get it decorated and sewn-up. Sound easy, right…. not at all, coming up with a good paper pattern is not as easy as I wrote over here, gasp!!!!

I want my handbag to get a little glimmer so I put some iron-on rhinestones on it. I like the glittery look on the handbag but I am very careful that I don’t dominate the handbag design by overdoing it.

diamond attach1

Next,  I sewed some beads and sequins onto the flower prints. Only some of the flowers, not all, again I don’t want to overdo it and make it too sparkly!!!!!

beading1

I added leather and some metal buttons to create a bit of edginess to the soft design of  the beads and flowers. The photo shown below is the front and back of the handbag that hadn’t seamed up yet. I purposely took this photo to let you compare the effect of with and without the metal buttons on the leather ;-) I had both sides embellished to make them look identical….

2 piece WIP

A close-up look on the metal buttons…. they are not only used on bags but also on jeans, jackets and boots too. Look at the hand-sewn stitches of the leather… I used a 4-hole diamond tip awl (leather puncher) which I specially imported from Japan, hammered it on the leather to create a line of equally spaced guide holes, and sewed them with special leather needle and thread.  After having all the necessary embellishment done, sewed the side and bottom up, set it aside and move on to the the internal lining of the bag.

metal button

I didn’t capture photos on the process of the interlining as I was running out of time (and daylight too, was doing it in the middle of the night) and rushing to finish it.  Anyway, I used gold satin fabric to make the lining and added a zip pocket and 2 slips pockets in it.

As usual, I hand-embroidered my own label ” Craft Passion” and sewed it on the top of the zip pocket :)

Label

Sewed them up and attached the sewable  ball clasp closure frame, fitted the chain straps, I thought I was done with the handbag!!!! But….. yes, I feel something is missing here…. I still feel that the handbag is too “empty”, I need something to boost it’s image!!!! So…..

I designed and crocheted a 5 petals flower to match with the flower print on the fabric as an add-on. Put 2 types of fastener at the back -  a brooch pin and a rubber band to make it into a brooch and/or hair band. It is flexible, you can use it as an embellishment on “The Dazzle”, pin it on your outfit  or tie it on your hair….

Blue Crochet Flower1

Consider all done and get ready to send it to the fundraising event organiser to get it auctioned???? No, not yet, not up to my standard without a proper packing!!!!

Below are some of the gift tags I made, chose one and tied it on.

Gift tag

Then, I sewed a semi-transparent red dust bag to store “The Dazzle” in and  beaded “Craft Passion” as the label!!!

dust bag

ALL DONE!!! This time is for real!!! I packed them into the box, gasp, inhaled strongly just before closing the box, but I stopped. I took out “The Dazzle”, held it and looked at it until I am satisfied, put it into the box, sighed a while, took it out again, looked again, held it again, put it back again, repeated over and over again…. I told myself, since it is out for a good cause, I have to let go. I quickly sealed the box and couriered it to Sumay the next morning before I changed my mind.

That is the story from 2-3 weeks ago!!! Now, it is time to gear myself up for the fundraising party. Yup, I am going to the party and I want to witness how the auction goes with my heart and soul handmade – “The Dazzle”.  I want to see who is the lucky bidder to win “The Dazzle” and I want to take a photo with him/her.

Till the next time, watch-out my next post for the report!!!!

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ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 15:55 + в цитатник

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Tutorial: Tube Box

Tube Boxes With Christmas Trees

Tube Boxes With Christmas Trees

Picture 1 of 3 (Click "Next" for more pictures)

I have been experimenting of how to make a sturdy tube box to store the Kanzashi Christmas Tree. The box must be strong enough to be able to withstand all the rough handling during shipping and reach the winners’ hands in good condition.

I used cardboard, folded 2 layers, no, not strong enough!

I used a thick cardboard, no, I couldn’t fold it in round!

I shopped around but all I saw were rectangle boxes and they are rather huge for the small tree I made, which means I have to include more bubble pack in the package, no no I don’t want that either!

I want it to be light weight yet strong….. I was grumbling to my technical staff about it during a casual talk while they were having their tea break. The chief showed me a UPVC pipe and said: “Use this!”. Yes, it is the perfect material that I want, why I never thought of it!!! More brains is always better than 1 :-D as long as we are not the cooks and won’t spoil the soup lol!!!

Remark- UPVC pipe / white pipe (mainly use as rain water down pipe from roof) with large diameter has thinner wall compare to normal PVC pipe (grey color), hence the weight is lighter.

Like many Chinese, I love tea, and  I have some nice small tube boxes that store tea leaves. So, I stole its idea to make this box.

Not only can it be used for storage, if you change the dimensions a little, it could turn out to be your treat box during festive season. Just add some seasonal decorations on it :)

round-box-WIP1Material:
1. UPVC pipe (150mm diameter and 350mm length)
2. 2mm thick cardboard
3. Wrapping paper of your choice (I got this from Ikea)
4. Craft glue
5. Craft knife, steel ruler and cutting mat
6. Scissor and a pencil
7. A saw with a suitable blade to cut plastic material (I used electrical saw in my workshop)
8. Sand paper
Cut the Pipe to your desire length, a body and a cap (200mm and 50mm). Sand-off the sharp edges from the cut.
Trace the outer diameter of the pipe on the 2mm cardboard, make 2, cut them out for the top and bottom cap.
Cut 2 pieces of 30mm wide and 1 piece of 10mm wide strips from the 2mm cardboard. The length must be
Cut wrapping paper for the top and bottom caps.

round-box-WIP2Apply glue on the pipes surface. Wrap the wrapping paper around it and seal the open end in by putting some glue there.
Fold the top end of the body and both ends of the cap in and glue it.

round-box-WIP3Glue the 10mm strips at the end of the body (inner part). Since the strip is thick, you need to roll it so that it curved before gluing it, this applies to the 30mm strips too. Cut off extra length.
Fold in the wrapping paper and glue it.

round-box-WIP4Glue the top and bottom caps to the wrapping paper. cut off extra wrapping near the curve after the glue has dried.
Wrap one of the 30mm strips with wrapping paper too.

round-box-WIP6Glue the unwrapped strip on the inner surface of the cap with 5mm below the top border. This should make the bottom end has more than 10mm allowance for the cap to sit properly on the body. Cut off extra length.

round-box-WIP5Apply glue at the outer ring of the top (wrong side) and bottom (right side) caps. Insert them carefully into the pipes so that they sit on the stopping strips.

round-box-WIP7Glue the wrapped strip on the inner surface of the top body. Leaving it about 10mm protruded. Cut off extra length.

Cover the cap to the body and check if they fit properly. They should fit, by right!

Brush a round of glue on the caps that they seal better, both inside and outside.

Wait till they are completely dry and you can start storing your favorites in it.

round-box-WIP8

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ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 15:53 + в цитатник

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Sewing Tutorial: Kanzashi Christmas Tree

Merry Christmas Tree

Merry Christmas Tree

Picture 1 of 7 (Click "Next" for more pictures)

Congratulation to the 3 winners who won the Green, Red and White trees during the Kanzashi Christmas Tree Giveaway Draw recently!!! For those who didn’t win or missed the boat, don’t be disappointed, here is the tutorial with complete step-by-step photos and even videos to guide you all the way to make the Christmas Tree!!!

Though it looks tedious but if you get your hands on it, it is pretty simple!!! Try it out!!!!

The Christmas Tree is made from 2 types of Kanzashi fold (or TsuNami) petals, round tip and pointy tip. Watch these 2 videos which I made to show you how to fold it. Perhaps you need to practice first before you can get a perfect fold for a start. Trust me, it is not as difficult as you see and think :)

I also prepared a pattern drawing for all the cut-out materials you need, you can download it here!



  




Christmas Tree and Pot

Christmas-Tree-WIP1Material:
1. Fabric glue or good craft glue
2. Sharp point Tweezer
3. Fabric for the cone base
4. Fabrics to fold the Kanzashi petals
5. Matching color sewing thread and needle
6. Cardboard for cone
7. Cardboard for the base of the cone

Christmas-Tree-WIP2Prepare the cone:
Roll the cone and glue it at the glue line. You might need to place 1 or 2 tapes to secure the joints before the glue dries.
Clip the curve of the base and fold it up as shown and apply glue on the that area.

Christmas-Tree-WIP3Insert the base into the bottom of the cone.
Glue the fabric to the base. Clip the curve and glue it up to the cone.
Make a small hole at the center of the base. You need this to poke through the floral wire later.

Christmas-Tree-WIP4Get ready your Kanzashi petals, both round tip and pointy tip.
Arrange them in alternate sequence, round, pointy, round, pointy and so on….
Apply glue on the 1st row. Raise the cone by placing a stand, it will be easy for you to work on.
Dip the petal base on a pool of glue so that it has enough glue to adhere to the cone.

Christmas-Tree-WIP5Start gluing the petals on the cone row by row, make sure the whole petal base touches the cone. Follow the numbers of petal required for each row as instructed in the pattern sheet.
Rotate the stand as you go on. Adjust the position of the petal if needed.

Christmas-Tree-WIP6 A close-up view showing the alignment of the petals and the base.

Christmas-Tree-WIP7 Top view: after completing the first row.

Christmas-Tree-WIP8Continue to work upward row by row.
Side view: after completing 5 rows of big petals.

Christmas-Tree-WIP9Side view: after completing another 5 row of small petals. Reserved the last row for final assembly.

Christmas-Tree-WIP10Top view.

Christmas-Tree-WIP11Prepare the pot of the Christmas tree while waiting for the glue on the petals to dry or at least semi dry. You can skip this part if you can find any alternative pot to substitute it.
Material:
1. Tube 30mm height (I used shuttercock tube which is about 65mm diameter)
2. A circle base (size: outer diameter of the tube) which I have glued the floral wire on.
3. A circle top with a small hole at the center. (the photo showed 2 but you need only 1)
4. A small cable tie
5. A small bell
6. A short length of ribbon (about 300mm)
7.A short length of paper ribbon 2.5 times the circumference of the tube.

Christmas-Tree-WIP12Assemble the pot by gluing the base and the top to the tube.
Cut the paper ribbon into half.
Open/unwrap one of the paper ribbon as shown, wrap it around the pot and glue it.
Glue the unopened paper ribbon at the top edge of the pot.
Cut off extra paper ribbon at the joint.

Christmas-Tree-WIP13Tie the cable-tie 15mm above the top of the pot. Apply some glue to secure it.
Tie a ribbon and sew the bell on it, glue it to the pot.
Apply some glue on top of the cable-tie.
Option (left): You can embellish the pot by putting some dry wood.

Christmas-Tree-WIP14Now, slowly insert the Christmas tree through the floral wire.
Apply some glue at the tip of the tree.
Continue with the petal attachment for the last row. Top half of the petal should touch the floral wire.

Christmas-Tree-WIP15Cut off the floral wire 10mm above the tip of the Christmas Tree.
Apply glue and insert a star on it.
You are ready to decorate your Christmas tree with some beads and bead garland.

Christmas-Tree-WIP16Place a circle of bead garland at the 1st row of the Christmas tree.
Glue the first and last beads onto the petals. Secure it with pins.
Apply some glues on the next few beads to secure the garland better.
Cut some beads from the extra garland that you left and glue it on the petal randomly to decorate it.

Christmas-Tree-WIP17Let the glue dry by leaving it over night or as long you can.
Done!!! Now you can decorate your table with the Kanzashi Christmas Tree you made for this holy season :)

Christmas-Tree-1a

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ƒневник

ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 15:45 + в цитатник

 

DIY Wedding Decor

DIY Fabric Poms
DIY Wedding

We recently created this fabric pom pom as a tree topper for an inspiration shoot over at Design*Sponge, but it’s a great DIY project for a wedding as well. They have so many creative uses… hung above tables, chair aisle decor, or an alternative to the expensive flower poms that flower girls use to walk down the aisle.

-Ashley of Dolci Odille

hanging-pom-pom2

hanging-pom-poms_1

Supplies: Fabric, scissors, hot glue gun, and chinese lanterns.

hanging-pom-pom

Step 1: Cut circles out of fabric.

Step 2: Fold the circle in half and put a little hot glue on the center, then fold over to secure.

Step 3: Apply more hot glue to the bottom of the folded circle.

hanging-pom-poms

Step 4: Press the bottom of the folded circle with the hot glue onto the chinese lantern.

Step 5: Repeat these steps until the whole lantern is covered. Once finished, attached some fabric to the metal frame of the lantern to hang.

hanging-pom-poms_4

Project created by Dolci Odille

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ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 15:40 + в цитатник

 

ѕионы из ткани. ћ 

 

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ѕонедельник, 15 ќкт€бр€ 2012 г. 15:36 + в цитатник

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